If I can't find a repair procedure anywhere, I'll figure it out myself and post it here. Although I do have a legitimate M.S.E.E. degree, my PhD was an honorary degree bestowed upon me, by me, at the University of Aperturas Murorum Stercore (**** breaks).
:) That's always an option, but you're bypassing a key safety feature if you do that. If it's going to fail, a thermal cutoff that pops is a lot better than a heating element fire.
Got a $400 AC bill from electric company. Turned off the AC & borrowed an evaporative cooler from my son in law. Now mind u we are in the DFW area so have hi humidity in the early mornings, about 60% to more. But temps do cool a little at nite. My bill dropped from $400 to $118. Had my AC on one day during that time due to humidity. Thats enough savings to almost pay for a new swap cooler. I clean out the cooler every 2 weeks as slime grows in the well even with adding vinegar to the well water. But its no problem as I just roll it out on patio & remove the drain plug to drain it. Rinse & wipe it out & scrub down & add more water. Have shower filter so may take the extra water that's collected till it runs warm, to put in cooler to avoid mineral buildup. Just some suggestions for ppl on a tight budget like me.
Good information! Question for you: I clean my 15yro cooler frequently, black-coat the bottom pan and change the aspen pads once a month. But lately, the cooler blows a mixture of air AND water spots onto my truck. Any thoughts as to why?
water blowing out of the cooler output usually means there is a gap in your pads. Air will take the path of least resistance, so if there is a gap in your pads, the air will mostly go where the gap is and blow any water dripping across the gap out into the room at high speed. Look for a snug fit around your pads and that there are no holes in them.
Depends on how bad the leak is. For what I was fixing in this video, probably not. I was losing a lot of fluid on my garage floor, and it was enough to lower the reservoir and make a lot of noise. I have used the stop leak however in my old Toyota mini van, and that worked pretty well. I don't think you're going to hurt anything by trying. The ps reservoir is one of the few places in a car that I'd be willing to try something like that.
Great video. I have a trimmer that ran fine with the engine warm, but wouldn't start at all when cold. I applied the method shock closed (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2, 3) -> shock open (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2... and the engine came to life! Thank you very much.
@@oommaarriiss On mine, the left, non-pulley side, wore out. It has a metal ring, a collar, that butts-up against the bearing. This keeps the big drum fan shaft centered. This collar has a small hex screw that must be removed and slide the collar off, this allows the old bearing to slide off too.
The only reason I came to this video was for you to show me HOW you got the belt on. And that is the only thing that you didn't show. All my bolts are loosened to the point of falling out and I still can't get it over the last pulley. What exactly is the point of your video? ☹️
First complaint I ever got about this video. There are diagrams available online on how to wind the belt. If it is wound correctly, you should have plenty of slack for positioning belt if the adjusters are in the max loose position.
I know this video has been up awhile but was wondering if I can get some help? I replaced both cables and adjusted the left spring tension, I didnt touch the right spring, the door opens manually but heavy, doesnt open automatically, it stop about an inch above the ground, should ai wind down the left spring and retention it? if so do I need to use vise grips on the bar or just retighten? Thank You!!
Hi. If you have two springs, the tension on each spring much match each other, otherwise you'll get premature failure on the overloaded spring, and as you observed, it might not work at all. I think if your door is heavy, your motor is overloaded and trips off similar to what I've seen on my own opener. If you know how many turns each spring has, make them match while tensioning them to the right load. If you don't know, start at zero turns again on both springs, and load them until your door travels correctly with the right assist. If that doesn't work, you should run the numbers to see if you have the right springs.
I have a stuck "A" button! I am OCD about how I handle my controller. I even have a "gamer towel". Everytime I smoke, eat, or anything, I wash my hands, dry them, and continue gaming. I take very good care of my stuff. It's pretty frustrating. Thank you for the video. I've used mine moderately for around 3 or 4 months. Bought it brand new... 🤔
i just inherited an entire lot of this brand, blower hand trimmer and the wt3100 trimer you have. I have to replace the fuel lines but I'm a weee lost on which port the fuel line is on the carb and the starter line for the starter bubble fuel? I'm running the same carburetor .
If you have the same machine as me the pipes you put the fuel hoses on are slightly different sizes and receive different size lines. On mine, the hose closest to the bulb (the fatter one) is the one that dumps into the tank. The skinnier one further from the bulb is the actual fuel line from the tank to the carb. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Hey Mr fix master. I dropped my echo in my pond while running. Now it will not crank, not even try to crank. Got fuel, spark , compression. Any idea what might be wrong?
@@comanchejr921 Hard to say what might be wrong with it, but if you are getting fuel and spark it should run if all you did was drop it in water. Something is probably up with the fuel or spark. If you remove the plug & connect the terminal and hold it against the metal body of the machine, you should see a spark there when you pull the starter handle. If it doesn't spark, you have a water induced short somewhere. If spark is good, you need to make sure that all water is out of the fuel and the fuel lines. Remove the carburetor and open it up and let it dry out for a few days with the bulb removed.. Start with brand new fuel in case some water got in there. Water got in somewhere and broke it. Get that water out and it should be fine. Good luck!
NOTICE!! I've had reports that accessing the filter is much easier if you approach it from under the car and remove a plastic cover blocking it. I'm being told it takes 15 minutes to do it from below which is better than what I've offered here in this video, so try that first. Let us know if you've tried that and how that went. These cars are pretty low to the ground and it could be difficult to access if you don't have 4 jackstands, a pit, or a hydraulic lift, so use your judgment.
Outstanding video information . I had 3 outdoor lamps that a lightening strike killed the sensors on. I was getting power to the socket but the light didn’t work. I routed the red out of the configuration and now I have all 3 working as switched on off. I plan on putting a timer inside the house You saved me a few hundred dollars. Thanks
Tight enough to turn the fan pulley and for the motor to drive without slipping, but tight can also be overdone. If it's just sitting there slipping, check that the fan will turn and then yes, tighten the belt if there isn't enough friction.
I might have monkeyed around with that if it had one. A lot of the new carbs don't let you adjust it. It's working great now. One or two pulls and it's off and running. Thanks for contributing!
I have to express my gratitude, good sir! I really respected and appreciate someone who not only takes the time to point out and be specific about how potentially dangerous this could become, but someone who goes back and correct/updates what they published clarifying any mistakes and even adding equations! Hats off, absolutely commendable. Straightening out the common section wasn’t just alpha but Devine masculinity and ultimately elegant AF ! anyWho, if you can’t tell, you got me hyped and feeling much more confident and comfortable now, I’m pretty capable,good with tools or handy but I have heightened common sense and I have witnessed a garage spring failure (I heard it from inside so I didn’t get to see it) that left a healthy respect, fear, or PTSD so I pumped the brakes immediately. I’m surprised these videos don’t have more views and kind of wonder how many people pay to get this stuff fixed? No worry is valid though so I’m gonna be recording just in case anything exciting happens. lol also the formula has a “lil D”in it 😅 so ima have a brew first I suppose 🤷♂️ Thanks bruh
I think that running Ethanol gasoline causes the diaphragm to get brittle. I only run non-Ethanol gasoline in my power equipment. It costs a bit more, but it is worth it.
Possibly. You normally use two cycle oil for that. I'm not sure what running with regular oil in the mix might do. I would think not much, but I could be wrong about that. Perhaps the proof is in the pudding if it won't start. I'd flush it out and start over with a new carb diaphragm and the right fuel mix. Only then can you debug the problem the rest of the way. Good luck!
It runs flawlessly to this day. Most of the time it starts up on the first pull, sometimes second, and purrs like a kitten at idle. :) I've had it for 25 years now.
Good ideas - not much actual demonstration of the maintenance steps which excludes oil for the motor and bearing. It'd be nice to see what descaling actually looks like. For example, is there a specific cleaning product recommended to do that (vinegar? or some other??) - or do you just spray it all off?? Here's a more detailed video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nZJLsH6aTg0.html
This is a good link for some of the more obvious things. I noticed he didn't coat the bottom of his. Coolers without attention to that will rust out very quickly. Also not all motors are serviceable or have access points for lubrication. I don't bother cleaning any limescale except for what interferes with the function of the cooler. In the dispersion holes at the top, and of course in the pads, which I usually change out every couple of years. The rinsing is mainly to get rid of salt accumulations which are corrosive. I hit the main points quickly and didn't bother with detailed demos because the concepts are simple and people complain if the videos get too long. Thanks!
A flooded carburetor, usually. It will usually recover from that if you let it sit for half an hour. Less if you remove the air filter cover and let it air out. That's what I believe anyway. The kill switch grounds the spark I believe, so while it's winding down it can burp unused fuel through the carb and flood it. Just a theory. I've seen that happen before.
Why drill so many uneven holes? You couldve just drilled 4 corner holes and use a square and level. Also i just turn the part that comes through the wall 90° and it fits in between the studs without making a header. Then just nail in a couple cross braces at top and bottom for support
The holes were because I was trying to use a diamond bit die grinder to cut the stucco. It was going through blades on my reciprocating saw like crazy. In retrospect, I should have just used a circular saw with a masonry blade. I decided that putting in a header was easier than performing sheet metal surgery on my swamp cooler so I could stick it through the gap in the studs. Oh well. :)
Fine the two small screws on the carb. Find the “ high speed “ adjustment screw and turn it counter clockwise about 1/3 turn. Start and run the trimmer using full throttle for 3-4 second bursts. Adjust some more if it appears “ sluggish “ as yours does. After you get that sorted out. Adjust the other screw ( idle adjustment screw ) to give a smoother idle. You need a special tool for that or you can pull the ink part of an abdicate pen out and use the tip of the pen tube to adjust the screws.
Thanks for the tip. For those models that are adjustable, getting them right can be very tricky, and once they are off kilter, it's very hard to get them back to proper adjustment. I think that's why many manufacturers tune them in now at the factory and don't give users an opportunity to monkey with them.
If you are doing a carb video and can't start your equipment because it is flooded you should watch a video on how to pressure test and set up a carb, you also don't have to wait a half hour to start it. Just use full throttle no choke.
Most people don't have a pressure testing setup, including me, but it's great info to have if diaphragm surgery doesn't work and your fuel lines and bulbs are in good shape. Thanks!
Jean Sigouin 7:33 PM (2 minutes ago) hi, I did the same thing to the other light. The first one worked well. When I tried the second light ,all the power and a lot more wires. Anyway, the second light stayed on all the time. does the red light on the fixture have anything to do with it.
If both of those lights are on the same switch, it means they are powered in parallel by that same switch. That means what power is delivered to the unit by the switch should be the same for both. When the switch is on, the black wire in both units should go hot (120V AC). That can be easily verified with a cheap tester. If one light stays on when the switch is off, then they are not wired in parallel from the same switch and you need to figure out how they are receiving power first. This bypass trick will work either way. The sensor inside is basically just another switch, and bypassing just removes that switch, meaning that whatever power you deliver to the light goes straight in and doesn't consider the state of the sensor.
With two motion sensor lights on the same switch, you do exactly the same thing to both lights. The bypass trick is entirely inside the light, which is completely independent of the power to the lights, controlled by the same switch in your case.
i think my most common failure to start issue is forgetting to turn off the kill switch, i try to switch it right back to on after using it but i still dont always remember if i didnt so i just keep tugging on the start rope for forever until i wear myself out.... then once im all worn out i remember why, is because i left the kill switch on again.
Yeah that sucks. Some models have kill switches that are spring loaded, and you have to hold it down to kill the engine. As soon as you release it, it goes back to operating mode, ready for the next run. :)
You're welcome. DIY videos are for everyone, and crafted as such. Not just for people who spend time watching them so they can turn around and pretend to be be experts. It's that simple.
FYI your description of diagnosis is accurate. However mine was one of the plugs on the computer was halfway unplugged given me no spark no fuel pump and no gauges
NEVER replace your Toyota CV axles with after market EVER! Reboot them or buy new Toyota axles. It is one of the few parts that Toyota makes superior to after market parts. Do your research on this and you will find that rebooting this axle, while more labor intensive is a much better alternative over the long run.
The coil between 85 and 86 has to work to make contact between 30 and 87. You can jump between 30 and 87 and make it work but under normal conditions the field between 85 and 86 has to close. Yes it took 3 PCM's before I got a good one,
