2009 - 2013 Toyota Corolla Remote Start Install 

Know what I'm saaaaayin??

Thank you sir. What's your questions, I can see if I can help.

Not usually but also depends on what kind of car you have. What do you drive?

Yes, good question. As long as both wires tie into the same pin, then you're good to only hook up to one of them. Just catch your wires as close to the ignition harness as you can and you should be golden. You can actually see I did this where I only hooked up to one of the two light gray Accessory wires going into the top, second pin from the left in the ignition harness @ 15:28 and I didn't have any troubles. The only time I've seen this be crucial is if you have a completely isolated "second starter" wire in the car, like the XRS version of the Corollas, and hack installers will run the same purple starter output from the remote start to both the primary and second starter eliminating the whole point of the second starter wire entirely. In that case, you would need a relay to isolate a second starter output from the remote start. Anywho, that's a different story...let me know how you're install turns out.

The wire I hooked up to the keysense wire is the blue (or blue/white) off of the avital. This is not the blue wire in the two pin door lock harness off the avital. It's in one of the main harnesses.

@@dannyk.7336 awesome thank you. I figured mine out already I think it was blue white from module to blue off the pk all. Mines working great just in time for the cold weather

Sure, glad I can help. I discuss the tach wire at 20:56 but I'd be glad to answer anything about tach or hooking it up.

Ah, so the important thing to keep in mind here is that when we're talking about current and voltage, we're talking about the potential. So yes 10 and 12 gauge wires can handle higher currents than 22 gauge at a constant voltage (12-14V here) but the ignition itself is a lower current ignition so it's not going to pull more current than a 22 gauge wire can transfer and that's how it was engineered. The 10-12 gauge ignitions you'll find in 90's cars were used to drive the actual starter of the car and ignition components under the hood. Fast forward to today and everything being computer controlled; at most the ignition wires are only supplying to low current (~150ma) relays if not directly to the computer. So as long as you don't go smaller than 22 gauge, you'll be groovy. What bypass are you using; FLCAN or DBALL type?

Danny K. Thank you! The bypass I am using is an omega blade Al-64. when I purchased the starter they had two options. One was a canbus system, and the other was a data bus. I was told that the data bus was the one that would work for my application. Hopefully that proves to be true!

Anytime man! Yeah, the data bus system is what your truck was built with. You're truck uses the PassLock 2 and PassKey 3 systems where the PassLock 2 wire has to be given specific resistances to ground during ACC, RUN, and START to allow crank (which will be done by the Omega Blade) and the PassKey 3 is the "chip in the key" which is learned and fed for the bypass through the DataBus wire which is at your OBD plug. It's a pretty standard system that was used throughout the early 2000s so should be a pretty straight forward install (unless Hummer did something stupid with their implementation).

Danny K. It seems pretty straight forward. I've heard they don't do as well with the lower end remote starts. I think It has to do with a cheap bypass more then anything, but that's about the only thing I've heard of being a problem. Anyways thank you again for your help! Hopefully I can get this thing in tomorrow and then I'll be nice and warm in the mornings!

Good luck, sir!

Glad to help. Unfortunately, and it's quite a big unfortunate, I work off of bulldogsecurity.com for all of my wiring and I've run into a few situations where they've been wrong. When I worked at a shop, I had access to Directechs which is the best if you can get your hands on one of their data sheets. Luckily most Toyotas are very similar and are fairly straightforward.

I assume you're asking about the remote start wiring. It's fairly well specific to all Directed Electronics brands which includes like Viper,, Avital, Python and that whole family. For your Compustar, I believe it's going to be different wiring coming off the brain. All the Corolla wire colors will be fine to use from my video.

Danny K. Thank you.

5 Flashes during RS usually means the brown brake input wire to the brain is getting 12volt like someone is holding down the brake. Can you test that small brown brake input wire and see if, for some reason, it's getting 12volt during RS?

@@dannyk.7336 I tested it but it is not the case. I have a orbit 3475v. I spoke to a tech and he said he needed to program the tach.. I am going to try it

Ahh ok, I'm only familiar with the DEI brand stuff. Good luck!

@@dannyk.7336 Thanks I really appreciate you taking the time!

Not that I've ever seen. The PKALL bypass I use ties only into the immobilizer system of the car. If you use the FLCAN or DBALL type products, they do tap on to the CAN BUS system and the data lines used at the OBD, but still, never really heard of a problem being caused by these modules.

Did you catch Green/Black at your headlight switch under your steering wheel? Two things to check: Did you catch the right wire? Did it test the same way I showed my parking light test in the video @ 12:30? If so, did you set your remote start unit to output negative parking lights? What brand remote start is it? Most of them have a jumper plug on the side to switch between positive and negative parking lights depending on vehicle. The default is positive so you would need to switch that.

@@dannyk.7336 I did catch it and I'm looking at it right now, there are two in my case but one of them actuates as you showed on the video, I set it to the negative polarity on the RS unit, is it possible that the RS unit is not sending the signal, I know the fuse is not blown. This is a viper 4105V. Why is the horn not honking? The lock, unlock and remote start work as intended.

@@dannyk.7336 this is a great test on the white wire, just for reassurance, I should get signal from this wire either positive or negative if arming or disarming right? I'm assuming the DVOM should catch it? I will try the honk programming, I have an additonal RS that I'm planning to plug to ensure that it is working properly just in case there is something in the wiring itself, etc. Please advise and great job on this tutorial, very few people show how to find wires and methodology used such as how to activate each to get confirmation.

Correct. The parking lights wire in this car always has a 12 volt reference voltage on it until something provides a ground (-) to the wire which triggers the parking lights relay. So, if you do it backwards the way I showed you @ 12:30 and put your multimeter's black probe in a ground source and the red probe in the wire, it should show 12 volt with parking lights off and 0 volts with parking lights on or with arming/disarming of the 4105v. The parking lights stay on for a good half second when they flash so that should be enough time to catch the change in voltage on your multimeter. Just another way to test it and make sure you're getting consistent results. But good call on swapping the R/S with another, isolate everything you can. Also thanks for the compliment, I'm glad my video helped you out.

@@dannyk.7336 well well, I went on to grab the other unit and noticed two slots, one with guides for a connector and the other just bare without guides, when I looked at the other unit, I realized it was the same, I guided myself from the manual and wondered where the polarity marker was, to my surprised I saw that it was under the unit where the pins are located, I feel stupid now. Now all works including the honk once enabled from the programming menu you provided. Thank you again for the great work, perhaps adding to this video as a FAQ would be nice for another series.

Could be a lot of different things. You need to invest in a multi-meter and you can test to see if you're loosing voltage when your dashcam stops working. Once you have a way to "see" the electricity, I can definitely help you out.

@@dannyk.7336 the camera take power from a box called power magic pro. Made by the same company of the dash cam. I have two of them and both cause issues. I need to take voltage out of the box or right from the +12v wire from the steering column? I'm not sure also how to probe my multimeter as I assume the reference point need to be the car body that is connected to battery ground but the red probe need to be connected where and since it's voltage it's parallel so I'm not sure how to probe it if the dash cam is connected. I assume I need need to probe it when the cam is connected tho as if the cam crash when connected but no voltage drop it's probably the cam. It could still have an effect from the battery tho right? As I never had any issues after a long drive but issue started back after short trips. I feel the magic pro need proper voltage even if in driving mode the voltage cutoff isn't in function. To box convert 12v to 5v too so if the 12v isn't enough the output voltage is probably greatly reduced too

@@moog38yearsagoupdated1mont9 , is this the part you have? www.blackboxmycar.com/blogs/news/98777223-power-magic-pro-setup-and-tips . If so, looks like you'll want to set your multimeter to Voltage DC (VDC) and to a range that will show 12v (unless you buy an auto-ranging meter which does that for you), open all three wires coming out of the power magic, and with your ignition on 1) Put your red probe from the meter in the yellow wire and black probe in the black wire and you should read 12 volt. 2) Put your red probe from the meter in the red wire and black probe in the black wire and you should also read 12v. If there''s a harness in-line that you can put your probe into bare metal of the wire, that'll be safer than opening the wires. They are live wires and the shop you had do the work may not have fused them properly so be careful you don't blow any big main fuses in your car by shorting the wires (don't let them touch!). So, next time you see the dashcam stop working, test those wires out and should get you closer to at least isolating the issue.

The three wires are INPUT to the power magic pro box via 12V, then one red and one black OUTPUT from the power magic pro into 5V and go to a cigarette plug and the dashcam is connected there. I assume I can just probe from the power magic pro OUTPUT that should be 5V at the cigarette plug style. (Yeah it's a 5V cigarette plug it output, it's not 12V, it convert the 12V inside the box.) If there's no voltage drop, It would just indicate it's the cam. I assume it cannot be the power magic pro as I have two and both are doing the same thing. And I never got these issue after driving for a while. So I still feel it's the car battery being weak and when I accelerate more, it just cut off. Well, the cam freeze and restart shortly after. The more the cam crash the more I notice it's shortly after I accelerate more lol. And accelerating fast suddenly probably draw more current and not leave enough for the power magic pro. I have found a store that they test your battery CCA for free so I might do that and see as I have no idea of when the battery was purchased. All I know is the battery passed the CCA test when I purchased the car used.

Some seems to have the same issue, ruled out the sd card. I feel like trying to force a rollback to the first firmware of the camera. Maybe it's that too. xD The power magic pro doesn't show any sign of voltage drop either, the LED doesn't flicker at all. I'll probably going to find the datasheet of the voltage regulator and see the range of input to get a stable 5V at the output. The condensator in the circuit seems fine too so it should regulate the 5V too. Maybe I should really force the firmware update back to the first one before messing with the wires. I have done some robotic electronic at school but dropped a bit fast due to big medical issues so I'm still a lot noob to that hahaha. I'll force the firmware soon and check the alternator strap and I'lll update you. I have to change my tires to both cars and oil change first tho haha.

I've never used Compustar's products (came from a completely Directed Electronics shop so not as familiar) but looking it up online it looks like they're used to change polarity. So they have negative and positive parking lights, door triggers, doomlight, etc. depending on the car you're putting it in. So just make sure you setup the jumper to what polarity of the wire you're wiring into on the car side.

Danny K. Thank you!!!

Nice, glad you could use it as a reference. When you say just cranks...does it just sit there cranking and cranking for like a good 4 seconds? I've seen that happen when the immobilizer wiring is incorrect or if the bypass module didn't program correctly. Can you try inserting the key into the ignition but don't turn it to ACC or RUN or anything. Just slide it in the cylinder, don't turn it, and try to remote start the car (basically making the car see the chipped key). If it remote starts up all fine and dandy, then you know it's something with the immobilizer wiring and we can take it from there. Good luck!

Thanks for replying. I did that and it is somthing wrong with the bypass. Like u said either its not programmed correctly or the wires are mixxed up. Coustomer couldnt wait so what i ended up doing was using the RFID ring the cam with the remotr start original bypass that i did t us connecting it to the immobilizar and leaving a key in the car so the coustomer could drive the car until they come back from therr christmas vacation.

Ah nice, glad you had a workaround there. The 556U and the like can always get you out of jam like that. What XPressKit module did you use? Was it the PKALL (IMO/IMI) or did you go with something like a DBALL that catches the CAN bus lines?

It was the PKALL imo and imi the same exact one as in the video. Coustomer said yhe remote start is still working. So might jus leave it like that. Not a big remote start person but. I make it work one way or another lol

Oh yeah, that definitely works. My customers used to be very demanding about getting their keys back so glad yours doesn't mind. Well, if you do decide to troubleshoot more, feel free to ping me for help.

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Should work fine with Toyotas. A 556U or the like? You really gotta get it wrapped around the key cylinder good and tie it down in place, I never liked using them. Plus you're literally leaving your key inside the car...was surprised how many people were totally ok with knowing I could easily steal their cars after installation back in the day..

Oh I didn't realize that it needs a key and I only have 1.. So the xpresskit pkall bypass that you got works without a key?

Yeah, I guess that's what makes them so universal, ha. When I was doing this a while back, that was the only option actually. For any of the modules you wire into the data lines of the car, you only need 1 key to program it and it adds the module's chip to the car's bank and you don't have to leave a key in the vehicle. You can see me program it at 19:55 in the video. The PKALL is a little harder install seeing it ties into the immobilizer wires that aren't as accessible. If you go with an FLCAN or DBALL, those tie into the CAN BUS wires of the car and are at the OBD plug...so much easier than running under the hood but those modules cost a bit more.

I have the same pkall as you linked in the description. Where do I connect Rx(data in) and Tx(data out)? Also not sure about the 3 wires going to under the hood. Are those coming from the pkall or remote start?

I think I found the Rx(data in) and Tx(data out) wires using the pkall instruction manual. They are on a 7 pin connector directly behind the ignition barrel. now I'm just still not sure about the 3 wires you have going under the hood. Are these still necessary?

In the 2013 model I did, it did not. You can test this with your own car by starting the car with the key and then try pushing the buttons on the factory keyfob and see if it allows you to unlock/lock/trunk pop. I think it's a safety feature Toyota builds in so you're not popping your trunk while driving down the highway. I ended up hooking up the unlock wire off the R/S brain so the remote start fob could still unlock the car while it is running.

Can you explain how the remote start fob unlocks the doors? Didn't you install a single button remote starter?

With a single button remote start, they got clever with it. If the remote start is active, a quick push to the button will pulse the unlock wire and a long push to the button will shut down the car. If the car is not remote started, then a quick push to the button activates the remote start and a long push pulses the unlock wire.

Did you have to hook up any additional wires not shown in the video to get the unlock feature to work?

After my ex complained about it every day for a week after, oh I sure did, haha. It's a pink wire in a white 18 pin plug in the driver's kick panel. There were a couple pink wires down there but it was easy enough to test and confirm the right one. Red probe in the pink wire, black probe to ground. The multimeter should red 12 volts. Push the unlock button on the door and you should see the voltage drop to zero and come back up to 12 volts once the door actuators move.

Looks to be. They changed the Corolla style in 2014 which carried over to 2015 and 16. My video only covers up to a 2013 so probably not going to be of too much help to ya. And yes, I'm pretty sure all Toyota's are coming with chips now. You can always test it by wrapping the plastic part of your key in aluminum foil (effectively making it just a "metal" key) and try to start the car. If it starts up, you're good! If it just keeps cranking...you'll need the interface.

Using just the blade of a razor blade. Run it around the top and bottom portions of where you want to open the wire up (without slicing your hand open) and then cut a slit between the two and the insulation peels right off the wire.

I think I connected everything correctly but I can't get it to start. The red led flashes correctly when programming the pkall, as well as the remote start led for programming the tach. The parking lights don't flash at all (I checked to make sure they were connected). Also the one button remote just flashes green rapidly when pressed, it doesn't seem to do anything. Any ideas?

Yup. Both red wires control separate ignition relays inside the brain. If you want to be lazy with it, you can tap one red 12volt off the brain into the other and run one line to the white wire. The ignition wires are small enough in that car you should be fine; as long as you're not driving any high current stuff. Just make sure you splice it after the fuses so each have their separate fuse going into the brain.

Well sounds like the PKALL and Tach programmed correctly. If the brain gets the signal from the remote telling it to remote start and the brain has a problem, it will flash the parking lights a bunch of times (or at least you will hear a bunch of clicking coming from the remote start if you don't have p.lights hooked up). If it's not doing a damn thing when you try to remote start from the remote, then sounds like you have a communication issue. The antenna and everything look ok? I dont think the one button remote is supposed to flash rapidly, what model is it? One thing you can try though! The brain should have a white/blue activation input wire (if it's a directed product). You can tap that wire to a ground source in the car and it will manually initiate a remote start taking the remote and antenna out of the equation. Might help isolate.

So I hooked up the other red wire that I forgot at first. Now I was able to perform a "shutdown diagnostic" and it's telling me I need to hook up the parking brake wire. It also says the parking brake must be applied for the remote start to work. I don't really want to have to apply the parking brake every time I need to remote start.. Is there any way around this? I was thinking of hooking it up to the 12v power wire for a constant "applied" status. Is this okay or could it break something?

Is your car a manual? If not, then screw all that parking brake nonsense and you need to program the brain from Manual mode to Automatic mode. If your car is an automatic, I can tell you how to do that. They default the brain to being in Manual mode when they sell them.

Hi Lee, Is this a Toyota Corolla or a different type vehicle? It sounds as if the car's OEM ignition is no longer outputing 12 volt on the accessory wire. So when the remote start is active, everything works...when you push on the brake: the dash lights light up brighter (because the parking lights are turning off with takeover) and the accessories lose power because the remote start is no longer powering the accessory wire and, how it sounds, neither is the cars OEM igntition system on takeover. Can you try starting the car with the key and test to see if you have 12 volt on your accessory wire at the ignition harness? It was light grey in the '13 Corolla I did if it's the same car.

I test the accessory wire and when the key is in with the engine starting I don't get any power.

2013 toyota corolla type s automatic 1.8liter

I think you found the problem. Did the accessory wire's pin pull out of the ignition harness by chance? I would just check to see if something is loose there or something may have gone bad in the ignition where it's not outputting the accessory 12 volt any longer. You definitely know the accessory wire and fuses and wiring on are good because you're able to power up the accessory wire from the remote start and get heat and radio that way.

The accessory wire is still intact. So you think I have a bad ignition?

It doesn't need a key when you remote start it but otherwise yes. Looking to make a complete keyless car?

You don't have to hook up any of the ignition wires or even power and ground?? What will they think of next...

You have to hook up ignition and ground Check idatalink website and you going to see it

Haha, no I know. I was just messing with ya. I mention the FLCAN and the DBALL in the video that ties into the CAN BUS system the same way but they were more money and I don't have a way of programming it. PKALL is ready to go without flashing.

You doing good job don't get me wrong I just tried to work together with you because I do the same thing everyday

I don't criticize anything

That's how I was taught actually. Always kinda questioned it but I was told the antenna wire is no match for dynamite.

Usually these Corollas take around 45 minutes for me to do. Seeing I suck at video production, this video's install was done over two days because I mumble too much when I talk.

Danny K. Great guide, quick question, accessories stopped working a few days after installing. Likely just a fuse? I’m pulling it apart tomorrow to look at it

Danny K. Also noticed the heat and ac would not run when remote started but would come on when the key was put in

​Hey @@jaremi40​, so safe to say your accessory wire and heat/ac still works when running off your key just not while remote started? If it was originally working it sounds like the accessory wire off your remote start isn't outputting or it's not connected anymore to the accessory wire in the car somehow? What kind of remote start is it? Usually there isn't a separate fuse on the RS that just protects accessory so it's more of an all or nothing with all the ignition wires. Either it all works or it doesn't usually. When you remote start the car, do you get 12volt on the accessory wire when testing with a multimeter?

Which system are you trying to reset? The bypass module?

@@dannyk.7336 In 7:30 you said something about resetting the system after unplugging the tire pressure sensors, thank you for your videos, really useful!

Ah, gotcha. You only have to worry about resetting the TPMS if you leave that sensor I'm showing unplugged when you turn the car on the next time. See if you can pop it out like I did and keep it plugged in while testing the RS. If not, I'm pretty sure the reset procedure was to turn the key to the On position (not started) and press and hold that TPMS button until the light on the dashboard turns off. I also think you can drive the car like 50-100 miles and it will reset itself. Probably something Google has a bunch of answers on. Glad the video helped!

@@dannyk.7336 Thank you, you're amazing!

Yup, sure can. It should be even easier since they didn't include the chipped key or immobilizer that year. Look it up on bulldogsecurity.com for the wiring.

you are really good bro i will keep you updated.

I would like to see you hook it up while explaining too much information before doing it.