2009-2014 F150 AC blend door fix 

Mawater Man what all did u have to take off to get the driver side on off and on?

This is a great tip that I didn't think of when I did it. I still think in terms of cable throttle.

I was told the ford manuals recommend dash removal, draining coolant to drain the heater core, etc. I like this method with some patience better. :)

not going be fun hopefully i can get that back bolt off

Hahaha, thats the idea. Hope the video helped.

Agreed, those are tough to access, worse in my expedition. Glad it was helpful though.

Thanks. I was wondering how long it will take to do this.

Yes this is true and sounds like good tips. I just did this same job on a high mileage expedition project along with many other things I will be posting videos on.

Thanks for the feedback. In the new stuff I am doing, I am really focusing on making higher quality video.

I'm with you, Brother! I purchased a set of nylon trim removal tools from Harbor freight. Trim, screw drivers and me have a bad history!

Glad it was helpful.

Glad to hear it. That is why I ignore the haters. If I help 10 people, I have done something worthwhile.

Glad it was helpful!

great job

That is a great tip. These with electronic throttle bodies are easy to remove. I didn't think of that, but it would be easier.

That is a fantastic idea. I am also wanting to install the factory remote start option that comes with another key and (I think) installs in the same area.

Do you have link for remote start setup ...??

@@virginiareeder9961 No.

Hopefully it helps save you some time. That's why I post videos. :)

I think you could, but that is why I do videos. Hopefully to save others time, money and frustration.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks, glad it helped!

Thanks for the kind words. I aim for helpful stuff rather than just video count. More cool stuff coming...

I had to break mine off and not replace it too :)

I used a 1/4” ratchet with a 9/32” socket. My left hand went through the front & the right through the glove box. It was VERY tedious but I got it done. Had to start it by hand though

I did it carefully like Steven described below. I just did this job on a 2010 expedition that has a bunch of videos coming soon. I couldn't use any of these tricks and ended up losing the back screw.

Hey Richard I have this exact same issue, did you ever figure it out?

This is a likely culprit. If your compressor is kicking on and off as it should when you have it to full AC, this should be where your problem is located. As a matter of fact, I have to do this same replacement in my expedition which is a 2010, so I will be making a video on that one again.

Thanks I really appreciate you getting back with me im going to rewatch the video and see if I can handle doing it

@@nickelndiminit5136 I'm going to order the part and attempt it

I just had to re-replace the one in my Expedition from the same year range. I know what the problem is, but I haven't nailed down a solution yet. Think 3D printer and exotic materials...So I do have some things in the works but nothing I have been able to actually test yet. TLDR version is the nylon gears are resilient to being stripped out but can't hold the required torque. So the main gear needs replaced with a better material where it fails. I have so many videos to edit and post, its silly. So stay tuned and I will link the follow up video to this one.

That is odd. It sounds like the replacement motor may have stripped out some teeth or been defective? There are 3 of these motors total, with the third down by the blower motor. Perhaps that one failed? Hard to tell through the internet.

This sounds like that could be the 3rd motor down closer to the blower motor in the passenger footwell area. Or it is possible that one of the new motors has failed following install. It is hard to tell without actually seeing/hearing in person. One thing you can do is hold a screwdriver or socket extension contacting the motor and listen to the other end close to your ear to see if it has failed. Or you can unplug each one individually and see if the clicking stops. The gears in these motors are super weak and break easily. But all manufacturers are using parts like these that fail out of warranty because they want to sell new cars not lasting durable ones.

At $1000, I can buy 40 of these motors to fix trucks. The motors are about $25-30 depending on your preferred vendor. I just paid $23 for one for my wife's Taurus. I do not have the dual zone climate control in mine, but you can enter the vin of your truck in fordparts.com and search air conditioning motor. The motors are all located in the same area for all these F150's. And for what its worth, my truck is an '11 xlt and I have 55k miles on mine. I know the bills game with medical. My surgery a while back was awful! Its like surgery costs $10k per minute these days. I would encourage you to be willing to try this. The worst thing you can do is have to take it back apart and put it together a couple times until it works right. There is no wiring to mess up, just some screws that are hidden and maybe some plastic tabs to break. The ford service procedure for this is something like 4 service hours. If your hands can turn a small 1/4 inch drive ratchet, you can definitely do it yourself and save $975. :)

just tell your health care professionals you will pay what medicare pays- they will accept that and save you $

Yes this is the replacement for the cold/warm blend door. The current revised part number is the YH-1933 and don't pay dealer prices for the part. The other 2 motors are also the same type of stepper motor with the forged rice noodle gears. One controls the vent/defrost/floor which I replaced toward the end of the video and the third is the heater door/recirculator motor.

Thanks a lot, I ordered a new type steper-motor , disasembled old-one and found small plastic details there, now everything is fine there.

Glad to hear its fixed. Broken equipment drives me up the wall, big time.

That sounds like it could be the third motor which is mounted somewhere closer to the blower motor. I don't remember what it is called, but it has the job of opening and closing the door from the heater core. That motor could be responsible if its not closing that door. That could cause the warm air to rise through the dash vents. That would be my best guess.

Hmm ,that sounds like .let me ask you have you replaced your windshield if so it was replaced with a low quality glass type model .

Octavio Gomez thanks for your help. I bought it second hand so i Really don't know but what it has to do one with the other? I can both see and feel the hot condense air coming out of the upper vent...

NickelNDiminIt thanks

No, the one on drivers side is YH1881

Like Rob commented it is the YH1881 by the gas pedal. Those gears are made of the finest forged rice noodles so they break at the first chance. But this is common to all manufactured vehicles. This isn't just ford.

Any time it has power to climate control you will hear it if it is broken.

@@nickelndiminit5136 i have clicking problem on my f150. After i took air blender door actuator out the one behind radio, when i open the door, i still hear the clicking without actuator. What could be?

@@tunthan3221 There are 3 total motors like this in the system I am aware of. Usually one of them is the source of the clicking. I replaced 2 of them in this video that had both failed. I have not had a problem with them since then.

$1500 what in the world. $200 installed all day

That seems like the 2nd door motor I replaced by the gas pedal. Some of the comments have pointed out the gas pedal removes easily with 3 bolts. You might also check the 3rd motor down by the blower motor. That one can be harder to get to.

That is the Yh1881 motor by the gas pedal in the last part of the video.

It is very likely the motor seized for the blend door. My wife's taurus motor did the same thing and she didn't get heat basically at all. If you haven't replaced the blend door motor in yours, it may be a $25 part that solves the problem.

Thanks for the reply. Yes you are correct it was the Blend Door. I talked myself into thinking that it wasn't because all of the air flow selections would switch to the proper flow or vents. This made me think that the door was working and it was a heating problem. However I gave up and took it in and they fixed it. Cost me big though. That's how you 'weigh it'. I wasn't going into my dash like that so I paid up. Happy to have it taken care of.

Nothing is more frustrating than performing a complex repair, and trying to get perfect video. I'm willing to give him a pass because this is the first time I've seen the second actuator.

I am sure you solved this already, but I have now added amazon links to the main part I used, the YH1933 motor.