Mine just hit 282k miles barely put my first ebp sensor and tube and it worked for 3 days and now its back to having no balls. I’ve got a no limit intake on it and its very loud so i can hear the turbo making more boost and less boost on bumps. Like if you’re blipping the throttle as fast as you can. So now that I’ve watched this i now know what the problem is. At least i hope. Thanks for the info
No, oddly enough it wasn't smoking. It just lacked power, and the turbo kept trying to overboost as compensation. The motor wouldn't revv above like.....oh, 1500-1700 rpm. All because of one stupid sensor
I needed this video for the last 6 months! Thank you. Any idea how many wires you replaced? I have several codes and have replaced sensors and still getting these Po 472 Po 194 Po 684 And the ac just randomly shuts off. I just know it’s electrical just have not dug into it but this video gives me hope
If I remember correctly (and this was awhile ago, so I might be off) we soldered just the 3 wires for the back pressure sensor. Never have replaced any others, they looked fine at the time. All the other codes you mentioned are most definitely wiring like you said. Probably ought to check the entire main trunk of the wiring harness that runs from the PCM across the top of the engine. It's a royal pain to get at, but I would verify all that is good. I've talked about how to get to all that wiring, and I've shown it in some other videos I've made, but it's scattered around. I can't point you to one video in particular, you'd have to skim through the playlist I have for this truck to get all the information. Sorry. As I'm sure you are well aware, these engines have horrendous wiring issues. That's more of an International thing than a Ford thing. I've been told the International trucks are just as bad for wiring. Regardless, us consumers and DIYers have to suffer. If all else fails, you can still get a complete engine wiring harness for the 6.4. It will run you anywhere from $600-$700, but you can get them if need be. Sometimes you are better off to put one of those on, rather than pulling your hair out trying to figure out where the short is at. This system communicates on like 5 volts, so it doesn't take much of a drop in voltage to mess things up. Plus most of these wires are like 18 gauge or smaller. And there's a lot of them! This pickup in the video is currently out of commission due to some injector issues, and we are almost certain it's the wiring. The plan is to buy a wiring harness and put it on, but that's a chunk of money we aren't willing to spend right now. Rest assured I'll do a video on it when I install the new harness. For now, I'll help you out any way I can.
@@ranchoparco Yes, it should be a simple matter of plugging everything in, and routing it. I say "simple matter" but chances are you'll have to take some things off in order to get at a couple sensor plugins.
No trouble since the EGR and the DPF delete. I haven't changed the blend door applacator so she's still hot in the spring and summer. Hell I might change it this summer, it's only been Two years 😮. But it's a pain in the ass. To get at in the F350. Maybe I'll take the dash right off. I don't know. Any one got a good step by step Video? I would like to see it
It's nice to hear someone is trouble free with their 6.4. Not something you hear every day. I have yet to find a decent video on how to take the dash out. Thankfully I've never had to mess with it much, because blend doors are not fun to replace. I wish you the best if you attempt it
@@Mighty-Quinn ok, thank you much! I'm gonna run new wires to about the front center of engine seems that would a good area to be able to work on. Is your truck still running good as far as the turbo codes EBP, Etc.?
@@royreyes1854 Yeah it still runs. Just put a set of turbos on it. The back pressure sensor code never did go away, and I have no idea why. I've even tried clearing it with a professional scanner, and it just pops up again. It doesn't seem to be hurting anything, so idk why it's there.
I have a 2009 6.4 power stroke. Starts up fine but when you get it very warmed up, not just a little warm, and turn off the engine and then try to start it, it will turn over but will not start and no error codes visible on dash. After cooling down for 30 min. Or so it will then start. Any idea how to fix and prevent this problem. Also the previous owner had the same problem at least twice and the shop claims it was a hpfp sensor code and they pulled the cab and replaced the hpfp also since they had it open. Then it happened again a few years later while under repair warranty and then the problem must have started again and that’s when the owner decided to sell it and I got suckered into buying it not knowing anything. I will try to fix the problem and use the truck at the most only 1 thousand miles a year around the hood. What can I do to prevent this from happening again once I fix it? Thanks 15:57
Sorry for the delayed response here, I've been busy with some projects that should not have taken as long as they did. Anyway, I've done some thinking on your issue, and I asked my local diesel wizard what he thinks. We both had similar ideas on what was wrong, but ultimately we came to this conclusion: There are too many variables to give an accurate diagnosis. Without any kind of data from a diagnostic scanner, I honestly cannot help you properly. It's like going to Web MD and saying "I have a headache" and they tell you that you might have cancer or kidney failure, when in fact you just need to drink some water. Kind of an obscure metaphor, but you know what I mean (I hope). HOWEVER, I had a few thoughts when I first read your comment: 1. Camshaft/crankshaft position sensors. If these get messed up and tell the PCM something isn't kosher, then the engine will not start. What sucks is that these sensors are an absolute nightmare (particularly the crank sensor, it's behind the A/C compressor) to get at. 2. Grounds. So many stupid problems are the result of bad ground connections. Might check your battery cables and make sure they're clean. I recommend covering them in some grease or vaseline to help conductivity and prevent corrosion. 3. Fluid leak. Something might be leaking when the engine gets hot, and that is shorting out a wire somewhere. 4. Fuse or relay. 5. Clogged or dirty filters. If you haven't changed ALL of your filters recently, better start there. Only buy the Ford fuel filters, everything else is inadequate. 6. Fuel pump (the lift pump underneath the cab on the frame rail) is going out. Generally the high pressure pumps don't quit unless they get contamination in them, which can be prevented by changing filters regularly. Those are just the things that I had off the top of my head, and that's about the best I can do atm. Like I said above, the only way to really help you here is if I had data from a diagnostic scanner. If you plan to work on this thing, you better have one. I hate to tell you that, but something as complex as the 6.4 Powerstroke just can't be diagnosed like the old pre-emissions diesels. Too many sensors and computers. I would 100% change your filters and motor oil if you haven't already, plus check your grounds and your fuses and relays. Inspect the wiring harness in the engine bay and see if you can see chafing. It's not easy to do, but give it your best shot. I will certainly help you more if I can, but for now this is all the advice I can offer. Good luck and sorry it took me so long!
Wow! I can’t thank you enough. I feel really ashamed for not researching this purchase. Anyway, I will try to think of it as a hobbie and challenge I don’t need the truck for regular transportation. It’s just to move my saw mills around occasionally and to move the skid steer on the dump trailer. I will go through the list you gave me and see if that helps. You might be right about the leak on the wire issue. There’s definitely a very small oil leak that seems to be coming from the pan seal. I say small because oil level is same for months. Maybe clean engine and find source of leak. Also I will purchase a code reader like you say a must. Which code reader do you recommend? What about the one that comes with a delete kit. ?Will that also do codes? I know it will generally only work with one vehicle. Also what about deleting stuff. I can actually do it here. No emissions test. What would I delete if I wanted to prevent hpfp failure. What about a fuel filter system upgrade? I will stop here. I am a little overwhelmed by all the possibilities. The sad thing is , all this time and money invested won’t amount to anything in the future. Some hobbies are not necessarily good investments. You have given me courage to continue this madnesses. I thank you.
The code reader I recommend (which is the same one I use) is the Autel MK808. It is not cheap, but it's far from the most expensive scanner out there. It does require a subscription in order to keep getting updates for the diagnostic program, but you can just buy it once, download all the updates, and never buy it again. Unless you're going to be working on new vehicles all the time, you don't necessarily need all the updates. The system updates are about the only reason I have the subscription still. Anyway, it's pretty easy to figure out, and it allows you to read any information the PCM can pick up, in addition to codes and live data. I've used it quite a bit on the 6.4, and some other vehicles too. Works great on all of them. There are more expensive scanners that let you do more things (like reprogram parts of the PCM), but unless you're really computer savvy I don't advise wasting the money unless you *really* want those extra features. As to deleting things: I highly advise you ditch the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) cooler. Those are the biggest things that kill the 6.4. I have absolutely no clue how to help you do this, because I've never actually done it. Someone else deleted our 6.4 years ago, before Uncle Sam started cracking down on emissions deletes. Yeah, it's super illegal to delete emissions control components; BUT my state doesn't do emissions tests either (one of the few perks of living in Kansas lol). So, in my opinion, Uncle Sam can go suck an egg. Removing and replacing the components in a delete isn't necessarily the hard part; the tuning is the hard part. I'm not great with computers, so I have no idea how to do any of the reprogramming of the PCM. You will have to find a place that sells a pre-programmed tuner that can do what you need. Essentially all it has to do it tell the engine not to freak out about the DPF and EGR being gone. When tuning your engine, keep it the power figures at STOCK! DO NOT USE A CRAZY INDUSTRIAL RACE TUNE! That will send your engine to the promised land faster than anything else. I always hate telling people I have no clue how to delete emissions on the 6.4, but I don't want to mislead them. The internet is a wonderous place, I'm sure you'll find what you need with the right search words. Now, as to keeping the HPFP alive: 1. The most important thing is to change your fuel filters regularly (only use the Ford fuel filters), and drain the fuel/water separator regularly. Water will kill these pumps right dead in a heartbeat. In fact, if the HPFP goes out, it will grenade and take the injectors with it. 2. Make sure the lift pump (aka low pressure fuel pump) is supplying adequate fuel to the HPFP. You can replace the pump portion of this without replacing the entire housing assembly. 3. Using fuel additives is important. Bill Hewitt at "powerstrokehelp.com" always preaches ArchOil products, but I've never personally used them. There's a million brands out there, so just use your own judgement and do a little research. Personally, I think the stock fuel filtration system works fine, it just sucks to change the lower filter. No need to "upgrade" it in my opinion, but if you want to there's no harm in it, so long as you do it right. Again, the rest of the internet probably has some good ideas. I want to be completely honest with you here, so I can spare you a lot of mental and financial pain: The 6.4 Powerstroke can be a decent engine, but it's super easy to start overspending on it. Too many people make this mistake. Here's the hard truth: No matter what, you will always lose money on this truck. There is no way you get back out of it what you put into it. HOWEVER, this logic stands for a lot of other vehicles too. I think your attitude of treating this like a hobby is smart, because hobbies don't necessarily have to make great financial sense. If you are going to do all the repairs yourself (which I think is very smart) it will greatly soften the financial blow. There is nothing you can't do on this truck, especially with a skid steer on hand. I've replaced turbos without removing the cab, and while it really, *really* sucked, it is 100% doable. If the HPFP ever went out again, I firmly believe you can replace it. Now, that would be an enormous pain, but you can do it. I'll help any way I can if you get into a major repair, as I have a mostly complete shop manual. What grinds my gears (and yours too, I'm sure) is that newer trucks are more expensive to buy, and they aren't any cheaper to work on. They're better in a way, but certainly not financially. What you get with a newer truck is more power, and more bells and whistles. These 6.4s make excellent power and fuel economy if they're running right. The trick is getting them to run right! I hope you can get this truck straightened out, because it sounds like it would work great for what you need to do. Just don't get too far into it, cause too many guys have done that on not just the 6.4, but also the 6.0. Ultimately, only you can decide when enough is enough. I'll sure advise you the best I can to help you make the best decision possible. Sorry about the long winded responses! I like to cover all my bases and make sure I give all the necessary details. If you want, I have an email address I set up for people to contact me so they didn't have to keep leaving new comments. I don't mind doing it this way, but the email option is open. The address is Lightmaster1776@protonmail.com Sometimes I forget to check it, so don't think I'm ignoring you if I don't respond for a couple days.
@@Mighty-Quinn I want a 6.4 but only if it has all stock parts. It maybe easier to find a 2012 that same way. I don't like to buy cars where people have remove the stock parts.
@@blackericdenice I can understand that. People do crazy stuff to their vehicles sometimes. In my opinion, the 6.4 should be avoided. But that's just me. If you find one and the emissions stuff is gone (Diesel Particulate Filter, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler, etc.) that's a benefit. The emissions controls on the 6.4l caused probably 2/3rds of the major issues. The one we still have is running all stock parts, except for all the emissions crap being gone. Assuming it runs correctly, it does make good power and fuel economy. What I hate about the 6.4, is that it is such a production to work on. The designers really didn't do the mechanic any favors at all.
I assume you're talking about the MAP sensor (that's the one I replaced, iirc). The sensor right behind it is the "Intake Air Temperature 2 Sensor" (IAT2) according to the manual.
@@Mighty-Quinn I've been seeing low oil indicator on dashboard+lots of smoke coming out of exhaust. . Than replace. Pressure+temperature oil sensors. Truck run good like new for a couple of miles than same problem came out. So 🤔 I'm thinking I need to do oil change+pigtails on oil sensors. And than replace these to sensors. intake air sensor+map sensor .. and I hope problem stops.
I picked up a 08 f250 6.4 in June of this year that was a fleet truck with 405k miles and was deleted. I figured with highway miles everything that was a issue was replaced or removed
Yeah I would've thought so too, but nope. I'm not 100% sure the guy that deleted our truck did it correctly, or maybe he did and decided to leave the BPS on there (but with the EGR cooler gone, why do you need it???). Either way, it's a pain in the ass to mess with. Very silly. Now as to "everything that was an issue being replaced or removed".......ehhhh, I don't know about that. Most of the problems go away, just because the emissions stuff is gone, yeah. But you still have the cooling system issues (the radiator tends to leak, and cavitation in the front cover is still possible), the weak valve train, and the risk of the high pressure fuel pump just giving up, and taking the whole fuel system with it. Honestly, I think the fuel pump issue can be avoided if you change your filters regularly, and keep water out of the fuel. I can't think of any other major issues these trucks had, that a deleted truck is at risk for. Cracked pistons, maybe? I doubt it. But then again, I'm a hillbilly who does all my repairs in the dirt, so take my opinion with a block of salt. (I don't know if you've ever owned a 6.4l before, or know anything about them. Just thought I'd give you a few bits of info regardless)
@@Mighty-Quinn no 1st one was very hesitant about getting one heard so many bad things about but always heard delete it and regular maintenance and don't add a ton of power without redoing everything. I'm just using it to pull a 9k travel trailer at times. The previous owner used it for hotshot trucking, so I would assume pretty much was taking care of for the most part. It came with air bag, 16k 5th wheel and auxiliary tank.
@@truckerbj I complete forgot to respond to this, and I had meant to. "Delete it, regular maintenance, don't add a bunch of power" is about the gist of what to do with these. If it were me, I would look at having the truck tuned down. Sometimes these hot shots get waaaay to crazy with the tuning, and when you go to haul, the motor gets angry. Sounds like a decent truck with the air bags and the 5th wheel. Just gotta keep an eye on the motor. Oh, and don't forget your transmission, if you're pulling regularly. It should be the 5R110W "High Torque". Good transmission, so long as you keep plenty of good clean fluid in it.
@@Mighty-Quinn no problem, it has the 5 speed torque shift transmission. The trans pan has a drain plug. I'm going to pull a 8500 travel trailer a few weeks a year. And drive to to work sometime. Transmission fluid is a nice light reddish pink. So in all it's not going to be worked hard. I got it to pull our RV in the mountains
