In the video I show using the incorrect brake lubricant. It was a new product I saw and decided to try. Normally I use Permatex Ultra Disc Caliper Lube, in the green bottle. Saw and decided to try the Permatex Ultra ceramic brake lube, in the blue bottle. As comments have pointed out, and after later reading the bottle myself, the ceramic lube shown is only to be used on the brake pads, not on the slide pin, like the normal green bottle lube I use. Just a heads up for you viewers. Sorry for the bad info in the vid. I later corrected the mistake on the vehicle.
Looking at the Permatex website it seems like both the green and blue are for "metal to metal contact only". The red "silicone ceramic extreme" is the only one that says that it is safe for caliper pins and sleeve as well as "most plastic and rubbers". I guess now I am totally confused! www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/
So question for ya. I jacked up the back of my car in a dumb spot and smooshed in a part of the underbody. Its one of the rails that runs down the length of the car maybe 12 inches in. It was a dumb move and I knew better than to jack it up in that spot but the jack i was using was this dinky little thing that made it tough to get back to the normal jack point. I'm pissed about it but do ya think it'll affect the car in any way? It's a 2013 outback 3.6r
Brake Parts Lubricant; 8 Ounce; This 100% synthetic lubricant contains real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, environmentally friendly, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is our longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering; also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling. Excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65F to 2800F (-54C to 1538C). This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. It is compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber. Suggested Applications: Disc brake caliper hardware, bushings, slides, pistons, rubber sleeves and seals
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed flush against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace?
Thank you very much for your meticulous detail in doing this job. I just replaced the front brakes on my 2010 Forester. Now I'm going to go back and do it the right way!
Hey man thank you for the video. Very helpful. 7:11 is super improvement and a step alot of people miss or skip. Also I learned something new at 5:32. That is a good tip/idea. Wonderful video as always. Just did mine today 👍🏻
Thank you so much! I’ve been wanting to learn how to do my front brakes myself for awhile and your video made me confident enough to try and it worked! Awesome!
Tackling this job on my 2002 Subaru Outback H6 tomorrow finally have the day off breaks just horrible calipers locked a lil bit brake pads trash rotors trash out with the rust in with the shiny stuff 😄 great vid
for the past 30 yrs on my cars i use anti-seize original or copper for lubricant, i compress calipers with channel locks. i did have to go on youtube to see how subaru brakes were done. did mine 3 weeks ago. one thing no one mentioned on the videos until i saw a female mechanic explain to how to put brake pad without bending the clip with the brake squeal thingamajig. yep i bent mine piss me off ended up cleaning original and works like a charm
This is a great video! Thank you. BUT, just a little additional advice. I did this job on my 2011 today and had some issues. Car has 92k miles, all of them near the ocean in New Jersey. Everything came apart fine. Obvious braking problems shown on both sides, with outer pad worn down to bare metal, inner pad barely worn at all. Had a lot of difficulty getting the new spring clips to seat properly on caliper carriers, and could not get the new pads to slot into position on the carrier...it was as if the pads were just slightly too long. I tried the old pads and the too were VERY tight in the slots, and clearly would not slide (hence the uneven pad wear). The issue was the 10+ years of salt causing enough corrosion on the carriers to narrow the slots and shorten slightly the opening length end to end. I tried to clean them up with a wire brush, a file and sandpaper. Still could not get the pads to fit and slide propertly. Finally I ran to AutoZone, bought new R and L front caliper carriers, and while I was there picked up new slider pins and boots. From that point, the rest of the job went smoothly and car is braking perfectly. Just thought I'd post my experience, maybe it will help someone someday.
I also had braking issues where my inner pads and rotor surface on the front were completely gouged. (I live in the Midwest where we also get lots of salt lol). Im thinking I will get new caliper brackets next time. Thanks!
Love how you have to use a special tool to push the two pistons back into the caliper. Ive been using the same Lisle tool for 25 years and now had to buy a new tool jus because of the two piston caliper.
Even better is to pull the rubber and clean it, and also the where the pin goes in and use a bore brush if the grease is super old and/or getting corroded. I love in ne pa so we see tons of rust here. However, no shop is doing this, or 1 in a 1000 shops will lube this part, let alone pull it all apart if in fact the grease is old af and hard. It then needs to be really cleaned. Anyway good video like always. I do my brakes on my outback specifically to do this as i know for a fa t it doesn't get done. The car i have is a 2010. Its been dealer maintained. It has gone in for brakes twice and resurfacing of the rotors twice and a brake check for something (idk it doesn't specify) 5 times to the dealer and whn i changed the brakes and rotors recently still had the original white yellowish grease that was hard and dried up in there. The bottom pins pn all 4 were stuck in. Unbelievable....
thanks for the great vid! I'm doing the front brakes on my '08 H6 tomorrow, hope it goes smoothly. Couple questions: - Do you need to remove the 12mm brake line bolt? Seems like it can hang out with that in place. I'm guessing it's just precautionary? - Is it worth scrubbing a bunch of rust off the calipers while they're off the car? Mine are pretty rusty. Seems worth the extra 30min but maybe it's only aesthetic? Thanks!
At 14:42 I can see that you put the Little spring clip I’m talking about correctly pushing out at the bottom it’s at the very bottom of the caliper in fact it looks like you actually put some lube on it, and it slides up against the pad clips but on the outside very bottom of the whole Assembly.
Blessings and love my guy question I have 2016 legacy and all maintenance is up to date but my brakes will it cause a rattling when you drive have had the brakes 2 times only happens at 90mhp when doing a hard acceleration????? Any idea why only 85754miles
Man I have to do my front lower ball joints this weekend along with my breaks and rotors. Is a ball joint replacement a hard thing to do in the garage? 😅
I wish. Haha. I was a Snap-on dealer for the better part of 5 years. Invested heavily as a shop owner before becoming a dealer. Wish I'd have waited. Could've gotten my tools at cost! 😭😭
Thank you for a great video. My question is, I am changing my brakes for the first time on a 2015 Subaru Outback (70000 miles). Do you recommend resurfacing the rotors or just change the brakes?
Dang I was hoping you would show the viewers the little spring clips that help keep the Pads away from the rotors when you’re not pressing on the brakes I had to figure that out the hard way lol.
Little detail, I'm in the niddle of the process and I just noticed two of the pads have a longer clips while 2 don't have them. I guess it's the wear indicator that will squeel if the pads are too worn off. In your video you install both of them on the driver's side. Are they always going on the driver's side?
Saw you tapped the rotor back onto the axle. I tapped my too hard and now the rotor sits loose pressed against the axle. If I put it back together and make sure it’s firmly against the axle hub. Is that okay? If not what should I replace
Could you please state what tools you use for the specific task at hand. I bought a ratcheting caliper spreader off Amazon and it was defective. You probably use better tools. I prefer tools that work. Thanks for the video.
I'll be replacing front brakes on my 2014 Sub. Forester, this summer. The dust shield will need to be replaced as well. Do you have instructions on removing that?
@6:15 help! I hammered my rotor on with wood and a mash hammer. But I can still wobble it. Is that normal. I even tried pressing the rotor on with washers and the nuts 🔩 no luck. Than with the wheel. Still able to wobble the rotor with my hands. Please help!!!
Almost looks too easy!! I've never done brakes, but might try on my 2010 OUtback. Did I miss something, do you have to bleed the lines?? Thanks, great video!
I know you said it doesn't matter which position top or bottom that the one with the bushing came out of. But is there a preferred. Just did mine a few months ago and they ended up stiff and I put them in the top.
I cant use that much grease where i live. The brakes would be an absolute mess. Doesn't matter tho, i use the platinum from advanced and they have rubber shims on them. They are absolutely the best pads made. Better then oem subaru for sure n the Japanese brand that starts with an Ak. Ive used those on my tacoma and they are ok. But these r built the best. Also comes with new clips that are coated too.
Yes. If the reservoir is topped up periodically with pad wear, then you can overflow. Just keep an eye on it. Be sure to crap the cap so the pressure doesn't pop it off as well.
Do the pinch welds hold up under weight? I've always avoided placing jacks directly on pinch welds. Service manual calls for rubber padding there I believe.
I didn't replace anything. It was a demonstrational video. I heard some brake noise so thought I needed pads, once I tore down, I saw everything was good and still filmed a video.
Thanks again for the videos! I just did this on my 05 yesterday ( new rotors, pads pins). I'm getting a very loud resonating when I lightly touch the brakes at higher speeds. Also, does it matter where the slide pin with the rubber sleeve goes?
I always put the pins back in the hole they came out of. I'm not sure if the rubber makes a difference, location wise. You didn't replace the pads when you replaced the rotors?
I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere before, but if brake pads with a single piston on rear disc brakes on a '98 Suby Outback Limited are wearing very unevenly, one side more than the other, would it be sticky guide or lock pins that are most likely the cause? Because no matter how much cleaning and relubricating of them I do the lock pin side always seems to be less free than the guide pin side? Would replacing them do the trick? They're most likely original done 270,000km.
So I watched and followed your front and rear brake replacement videos, but am curious as to why you have the front wheel nPut torque at 85 ft lbs and the rear at 65 ft lbs. Can you clarify please?
Front brake video is on a 2014 Outback 3.6R. Rear brake video is on a 2002 Outback L.L.Bean. The different year models had different specified lug nut torque values.
Is there any possible way to reduce or eliminate rust on rotor hubs and venting perimeter? Or just simply replace with electro coated rotors a d possibly paint hubs with high temp paint? Regards '12 Subaru outback owner 6 spd manual
What you've suggested is probably your best bet. I live in the south, so rust isn't an issue here. Don't know terribly much on effective prevention against it.
im always afraid pulling my slider pins out cuz i feel like im going to damage or tear the boot.. ever happen to you? any tips on removing them safely?
Definitely pull them out an lube them. I forgot to do that once on my truck...resulted in a stuck rotor and rotor replacement and brake job. You can find replacement boots at an auto parts store.
Is the Permatex Ceramic Extreme you used in the video for lube safe on slide pins? I believe its a synthetic lube, not silicone based. I'm reading some places that is is NOT safe on the pins, because it can cause rubber to swell. True or false??
After looking up the product on Permatex's website, you're correct. The ceramic extreme brake lube is only for metal to metal contact. Use traditional Permatex brake lubricant for the slide pins.
@@MrSubaru1387 I can confirm - just did some brake service and indeed the rubber bushings are swollen badly in the caliper bracket, had to yank the pin out, and replacing with new bushings. The boots seem swollen and soft too. Stick to silicone paste!
MrSubaru1387 I sure wish I could send you a picture somehow on what I did with my legacy on the pads on the bottom part it’s like a little spring ear tabs they sort of extend out a little bit to slide along on the outside of the caliper mounting bracket and what does spring clips do if I’m correct help keep the pad away from the rotor when you’re going down the road and not pressing on the brakes.
Doesn't seem to be common practice anymore, but I do bed in new pads. 8-10 medium effort stops from about 45mph, then a 10 minute drive on the highway to cool the rotors.
Maybe I'm a dumb ass for asking this question, but it seemed like you reused the old brake pads. Why not install new ones while it was torn apart? Maybe I'm wrong for asking.
Is there any reason, apart from preconisation, to use a dot3 brake fluid instead of a dot4 brake fluid? I ask you this because dot3 brake fluid is really uncommon in Europe, most cars use a dot4. Agurrak,
Brake fluid with low viscosity, especially at extremely low temperatures, help to brake system functions *(ABS, ESP)* to react quickly. www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/technical-data-sheets/ ATE DOT 3 G and B *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1,500 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3336/ate_td004_dot3.pdf ATE DOT 4 SL (Normal DOT4) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 1400 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3334/ate_td002_dot4-sl.pdf ATE DOT 4 SL.6 (Class 6, DOT4 maximum standard for ESP systems) *Viscosity at -40° C / -40° F max. 700 mm²/s* www.ate-brakes.com/media/3339/ate_td007_dot4-sl6.pdf
No bleeding is needed? I want to change my brake pads on my 19 wrx will it be bad if I dont bleed? Some vids people do it and others dont so I'm confused
@@MrSubaru1387 ok so no bleeding when doing pad swap.. I'm at 34k on my wrx so bleeding is only needed when upgrading to new rotors or calipers correct?
on my 2010 outback. I have new rotors from last fall. brakes are a little grabby. it needs a brake fluid replacement but is that a sign of old fluid or pads needing replacement? thx
Is there anything special you have to do when changing the rear brakes due to the electronic parking brake, namely compressing the piston? My 2017 Legacy is due for brakes and I want to do it correctly.
