During an oil change, replace one quart of oil with ATF transmission fluid. The AFT has a fine property to it that will assist in keeping the lifter AND more lubricated, as well as get to that small hole in the lifter. Do that every oil change.
Before doing anything crazy to your trucks. Change your oil and run seafoam in both your oil and gas. The first time it freed my lifter up. If that works switch to synthetic and put seafoam in oil again
I know I'm two years after this video but my 5.4 2v has what I think is a stick lifter and I'm doing exactly this, how long do you think I have to drive before it gets unstuck
It is a collapsed lifter due to the AFM DOD system. This was a suggested video for me, likely because I had this same thing happen to me and searched for videos. I was able to use a tool to unstick it through the tower that feeds oil to the lifters under the VLOM. I removed the solenoid gaskets from the VLOM, blocked the VLOM oil passage by the oil pressure sensor, and had the computer tuned to disable the system. Triple redundant security against this in the future. I only found out about this system failure AFTER I experienced it. Wish there was a way to tell every owner.
@@edgecrusher8605 if you just disable it before you have the problem, my understanding is that’s good enough. I only found out about the delete because I had the lifter failure. I’m a year after delete and disable without issues.
If you want to solve any upper end (lifter) noise just add one quart of ATF(Dectron) to you oil and drive it for about 100 miles then the noise will be gone and you can change the oil and filter and be noise free. Mechanics have used this trick since the 1950's.I owned a car dealership and used this trick many times on Chrysler's 318 and GM;s 3.1 and 3.4 V6's and it worked everytime.
the gen 4 gm trucks had DOD lifters, they have a spring and they can collapse. typical gm lifters have completely solid bodies. a stuck lifter is actually a solid lifter that's twisted sideways and will wipe out the motor, a collapsed lifter the spring gets stuck closed and there's slack on the pushrod, but no serious immediate damage will be caused. google search DOD lifter vs LS lifter.
next time do reasearch on what you are buying. both gm and dodge have this problem frequently . you are looking at a 3000$ repair!. buy a tundra or titan. only 2 trucks that dont have this poor desighn of AFM or DOD. thank the epa cafe standards for this debacule
I had the same problem. Dropped the oil pan cleaned it, and replaced the pick up tube and gasket. After that I replaced the oil pressure sensor and no more lifter noise.
@@javierochoa432 that was 12k miles ago and it’s still good. I forgot to add that the new pickup tube came with a oring so that got replaced as well. I also cleaned the oil pan using rags and break fluid.
Not sure if his year is the same but mine if I put it in manual 5 it stays on v8. As long as I’m not going over 50 it stays v8 around 1500 rpms. Once I go above that I have to switch to manual 6 or overdrive.
I agree with the guy who said add 1 quart of atf to 5 quarts of synthetic motor oil, best preventative action to keep lifters clean. I would absolutely get a disabler or turn off afm in ECU!
@@markmcmahen9442 no I don't. But my misfire code ended up being a bad coil pack. I'm getting it again on my #4 cylinder. The last time it was my #8 cylinder.
I think seafoam is a waste of money in oil from my past experience. After two treatments and no fix, I waited 10k miles before attempting to use ATF (tick would go away at higher RPM so I wasn't in hurry). I put 8-12oz ATF in with an oil change and the tick went away before the next oil change. After seeing lubricity test of ATF, I feel comfortable using a full quart in the future. I'll never waste money on seafoam again in crankcase. I'll only use ATF in future to fix lifter noise... well most of the time, as I didn't bother attempting to use it on my daughter's new to her 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee because the pentastar engines don't typically have lifter issues, they have rocker issues which can't be fixed with a fluid. Just spent past couple days replacing a rocker on driver side of her engine and it was not a fun time getting the upper intake plenum off.
I think I saw the same video that you’re talking about where the guy had a beveled push rod or something can you put it down there and where it would go down to its lowest point you tap it with a hammer if it didn’t come out and take a air chisel or air hammer or needle chip needle all good remove the front of it and turn it into an air hammer and he put it on there and cut it loose in it valve rod or that rod would come flying out of there when the lifter popped in this because the carbon buildup broke loose and from that point forward he could drive the truck in the lift her sound was virtually gone
interested. how is the truck now? mine came up the same several days ago. just wondering, how can the truck be started when valve cover off & coils off? thanks
If your going to use chemicals to try and fi this use a pint of Liquid Wrench 100 miles before a oil change. When switching to synthetic oil, run it 1-200 miles and change the filter. Use either oem or Wix filters and top off until full. I did that and switched to 10-30 and mine's been quiet ever since.
Collapsed lifter and you could also have a failing oil pump too, or at best, the o-ring on the pick up tube broke (common issues on these trucks) I had my oil pump replaced at 110k when it started reading 30 psi at high way speed. I hadn't gone bad, but was showing signs of pressure issues over a short period of time. In my case, it was actually a stuck relief valve but we had to take the pump off anyways so I just put a new one on after all that labor (it's only about $80-90 for the pump). But you do have lifter tick for sure.
I have a 2018 with 223000 and I just encountered the problem ! After looking at all the vids I am trying the hammer method then a heavy dose of marvel mystery oil to help clear the rest of them up before the rebel against me too !!!
Interesting that you went Bosch platinum plugs. I replaced mine with Bosh double iridium. Way better response. Would have used ruthenium but they only had 4
Mine is the same 🤦🏻♂️ now days these trucks are gay they’re not like they used to ,strong,,rare issues i had a 97 ram that didn’t gave me no problem at all had balls not like the sierra I’ve got now
It's an easy fix with the valve-cover off...just get a rubber nosed air nozzle for shop air , and blow out each push-rod hole in the rocker arms ...then squirt your cleaner in the push-rod holes and blow them out again ..then change the oil & filter ..
If your map sensor is unplugged it will put your stable track light on. You have a collapsed lifter. Had the same issue, sounded like the motor let go.
ok, I had the same thing. not moving on rocker for cylinder #4. took my valve cover off just now and it was not lose as in other videos of stuck lifter but it was not moving as the engine cranked. I was just about to remove the intake and cover to try the "push rod fix" but saw this video. i tried the Seafoam in the oil routine and it also did not work (after 1 day). I had some of the Seafoam for carburetors and stuck the straw down the #4 push rod hole and sprayed as well as down the hole where the rod sits. Then I used an 3/8th extension 8" long and hammer to tap the rocker above the top of the push rod. At first it bounced like I was tapping in a spring. Then it went solid and I stopped. I tried other rocker arms above the push rod just to see what it felt like. They all felt solid! did I fix it? I will let you know tomorrow. If so, I will disable DOD in the computer. OK, it is now morning! AND IT WORKED!! Cranked it over and the rocker rocked just like all the others! Now what caused it...dirty buildup in the lifter or a bad VLOM? This engine has 170,000 miles on it and it is a Tahoe with police package.
If it ain't moving like the rest it's a stuck lifter. If u have to replace at least do all lifters on that side so u ain't stuck doing it again. Also check pushrod on that cylinder. If it dont roll smooth replace it
If it fixed it cool. I fixed mine at 95 k and went out again at 105. Switch to synthetic oil. Use seafoam everytime and amazon sells a dod for like 80 bucks
I have same issue on my 07 burb, rocker arm stuck when cranking but not lose indicating stuck lifter. I changed the vlom, no joy. How did you tap the top of the rocker arm, with a hammer and 3/8 extension?? Thx.
@@nedpruitt1953 after removing the cover. I shot Seafoam carb spray down the push rod till it came up the other rod. light taps on the 8 inch extension with it held to the rocker arm right above the push rod. it felt like I was hitting a spring and I progressively hit harder till it suddenly felt solid then I stopped. Cranked it over and it moved just like the rest. I tried a tech2 and a snap-on code programmer and could not disable the DOD on my 2009 Tahoe. Mobil 1 oil and new filter and hope it stays working.
and oil filter is an oil filter if it's the correct one for the vehicle a synthetic filter is a sales tactic and it is only a money scam you also should probably bring it up the temperature a few times cut it off and then on let the stuff work it doesn't work while the engine is running it works while the engine is off to eliminate the carbon and the crud
I did replace all my lifters. I wish I would of tried atf in oil before deciding to replace lifters. only mistake I made was not loc tightening the exhaust manifold bolts. had to redo them
I reved my up to red line and it freed up the lifter for me it happened it 200k miles and i ran seafoam before every other oil change for help keeping clean and im at 242k miles and i always run the truck hard i havnt had any issues so far
@Caleb Oswalt Do you know what happened to cause the push rod to bend? I did that on my 6.0 diesel while assembling with new ARP head studs but can't figure it happening during normal driving. I guess if it had a collapsed lifter and you went to red line that might do it.
Pretty much same with my suburban. Cylinder 6 misfire code and traction and some lights on and off. I’ll try tomorrow mix half/half. Engine oil and transmission oil. I’ll let everyone know how it went. Suburban not for sale I’ll fixing it😎
@@kellydeardorff5224 Orlando, FL. Brendan runs LT1swap.com and he has instructions on his website how to send the ECM. Crazed Performance Repair on RU-vid has a video on removing the ECM and it is a 2 minute process. It took me about 8 days total from here to Missouri and back.
Bud that truck should've been synthetic the entire time! These truck need dexos5 oil. Which is full synthetic. If uve been running regular oil uve only just begun to have issues ull have many more.
Not sure if he used Valvoline the entire time, but I Know for people who use Mobil 1, that also works too as a substitute for Dexos1 (not Dexos5). Nobody should ever use regular conventional oil in these engines. Either the dexos1 from the dealer or MObil 1
@@HR-wd6cw Mobil 1 is actually not that great, I've recently discovered this. (I digress on that issue, but Amzoil or penzoil are light years better than mobil 1 or Castrol syntec.) Anyways, pull off valve cover, remove rocker arm and push rod of affected stuck lifter, take a 12" long 1/4" extension and lightly tap on the top of the lifter, it should pop right up.. These lifters should not stick if you use good oil and change oil regularly.. I've only ran mobil 1 and changed every 5k will no longer be using mobil 1. After you "unstick" the lifter turn off the AFM with a tuner. Problem solved forever.
I run Royal Purple with an additive from Bell Performance in 3-4K intervals. I had a lifter get stuck and tick for a moment but it unstuck itself on next start up. I also run B-12 in the fuel every other fill up to keep things clean. I think these trucks are designed poorly (engine) but with a very attentive maintenance and fuel schedule they can run for a long time. Long term, my plan is to buy a junk yard 6.0 from a 2500 and rebuild it, effectively deleting AFM permanently.
Yes flex fuel reduces the lifter to 4 at long drive's so it cause the engine to mess up. Because it tries harder to push. happened to my friends Denali truck so he took it out. When he got it tuned now its a beast no problems.. Hope it helps...
@@tysondeleon9287 nothing to do with flexfuel. AFM(active fuel management) or DOD(displacement on demand) is what u are talking about that's what Chevy calls shutting down 4 cylinders. Flex fuel is just the bigger injectors and fuel pump capable of running e85 and keeping up with the increased fuel demand associated with running e85.
the poor comments who havent a clue... this is a AFM DOD ... the lifter is toast. these are not normal lifters... there is nothing in a can in the world that will fix this... for those who read comments in the future.
Im a dealer and have a shop also and have used the trans fluid on several and it has worked everytime if its a typical chevy its down almost a qt by time oil needs changed so top it up with some dex 5 n try to put some hwy miles on it more hwy the better the dod is cycling more frequently n oil is as well while on hwy...this will also clean the stuck valve in pan that restricts oil flow to sender triggering the no or low oil pressure some engines are way dirtier then others depending on upkeep n fuel type used so it may take a cpl cycles or 5 just make sure u keep changing the oil n filters ev 500 miles because if its a real cruddy engine the shit can be chunky and clog the screen on oil pump pickup tube and also the screen that sits under oil sender ..i recommend replacing sender/screen after the lifter frees n oil clears up..id strain the used oil flushes thru a old cotton shirt cheese cloth ect n check for metal debris with a magnet if u find any stop drivin it.. if not add another 5qts 5/30.... 1qt dex 5...new filter drive 500miles repeat until oil coming out nearly clean if after its still rattling the lifter is most likely damaged id stop driving it at that point...will most likely fix it tho...i personally have make it a habbit to either top it up with some trans fluid a few hundred before oil changes due or ill put 1/4 qt in with the fresh oil...see alot of "new" oil is really newly recyled oil all the bulk cheaper oil is recy..... hell most brand n midgrades off shelf is a mix u gotta read fine print...my advice run premium fuel premium oil premium filters they pay for themselves just in mpgs not to mension preventing carbon build n engine sludge from shit oil broken down which btw is what causes stuck lifters & many other engine parts to wear faster higher oil temps oil circ problems...puttin cheap gas n oil in is like eatin mcdonalds 3 times a day its heart disease for your car and rem the oil change special its 100% recycled and its broken down its smoked @3k its pure garbage flowin thru engine at that point
That won't necessarily solve the problem, this is a major issue with the 2007.7+ 5.3 and others. They don't all do it but too many do, making a perfectly good 5.3 into a dod mess ruined the reliability of the 300k mile easily pre dod 5.3.
I changed my oil every 5000 to 6000 kms. And still had a #6 lifter failure and took out my cam at 161,000 kms. Performed a DOD and AFM delete. New cam and 16 lifters. Problem solved. Also had the AFM turned off in the ECM. Runs good now. No difference in fuel mileage.
Not an oil issue. I changed with full synthetic every 3K. Every once in a while it just happens. The only way to prevent it is to eliminate the AFM DOD system.
So I have a 2010 Silverado 5.3. Exact same ticking noise as yours and same codes (except mine was cylinder 4). I too unplugged the wiring above each coil and verified it was #4. That particular plug was only a year old but looked pretty worn. I replaced it along with the coil. Didn't fix the tick (jumped the gun on the coil...). Seafoamed the fuel and it cleared up the codes and cylinder 4 was working again. I figured the seafoam helped clean the injectors which caused the #4 misfire? But the ticking was still there. Seafoamed the oil and intake. After 200 miles I changed the oil and filter and used Lucas Heavy Duty in it. I haven't driven it yet, but the tick is still there. Now I'm watching and reading the posts. Might have to try spraying seafoam around the lifter rod and tapping on the rocker. Maybe just replace everything while I'm in there and have it programmed to not use the DOD? Or what does anyone suggest?
Try it . U can also try replacing cylinder 4 pushrod and torque bolt back to I believe 22"lbs. Before doing anything drastic. Pushrod should roll smoothly. That's your easy fix. But if u go to replace lifter. At least do all 8 on that side. And it's about 80 bucks on amazon to order a plug in DOD rather than big money on programmer
It sounds like rod bearing is gone My old truck has lifter ticking but the noise is gone after 3 minutes when it get warm But if you engine still have that noise 80% it can be rod bearing Like on this video he shows the oil pressure going down that means the oil pump will be gone soon When you see you oil pressure go down of 40 it's not a good sign
@@jayrob11777 If you're going to do lifters, do them all. You can probably do them at different intervals, but half of the DOD lifters are on one side, the other half on the other side. I would just buy the entire delete kit and do it all at once (all of them). You're going to spend the same amount of time, but only have to take the intake manifold off once.
@@raymedorio1930 No, it's more likely a lifter. I've heard enough of them to know. For many people, it doesn't go away, but it is lifter tick. And your old truck probably had piston slap, not lifter tick. Piston slap goes away, and makes noise when the engine is cold for a few minutes. Piston slap is a known issue on these trucks to and considered "normal" by the general GM truck community.
@@jayrob11777 Mine ended up being a bent rod. My mechanic replaced the rod and now it runs great. Fingers crossed it won't happen again. Worries me what caused it in the first place.
Cleaners and lubricants have a low probability of success and may buy some time but the root cause of the issue is the AFM/DOD design combined with getting up in mileage. 1) There is a lifter release tool and trick to get the collapsed lifer unstuck (Go to crazedperformancerepair.com, get the kit, and see his videos.). Use this $50 tool so that you don’t have to pull the heads off to replace these expensive lifters. 2) Disable the VLOM with a tune or Range disabler. There are companies that you can send the computer to as well to flash and remove the AFM feature. 3) Physically defeat the VLOM by cutting solenoid seals and installing the oil supply plug that comes with the lifter release tool above. This gets rid of the dumb screen below the sending unit that gets plugged up and is also a know problem with these trucks. You don’t need the screen if you defeat the VLOM. 4) To get oil pressure back up above 40 psi you have to replace the o-ring on the pickup tube. Since you have to replace that you should go ahead replace the oil pump with a Melling “high volume” pump (they recommend for high mileage trucks). Don’t get an identical factory pump. There’s a way to do the O-ring and the pump without dropping the oil pan and the differential (for four-wheel-drive trucks) but it’s a little more challenging. The bolt holding the pick up tube in place is tough to come off and impossible to go back in the same hole without dropping the oil pan. The trick if you don’t want to drop the oil pan is to use the other hole on the opposite side of the pick up tube. GM included this threaded bolt hole in the design but it’s not used in the manufactured assembly. Some people use a grinder and spin the retaining tab 180° to install this alternate bolt (but that only works for a few versions of the pick up tube and you run the risk of hitting a ceiling surface with a grinder). There’s also a support bracket that you can buy on Amazon to hold the O-ring tube in place without having to install the bolt in the nightmare location. That is what used on my truck. If you don’t mind dropping the oil pan that’s up to you. 5) Replace the driver side valve cover and seal with the latest GM or Doorman version. The original valve cover allows excessive carryover of oil. Makes you think you’re burning oil but it’s just carryover from the poor design. Latest version addressing this issue. This is another known problem. If you do all the above you can put another 200,000 miles on your GM LS engine. It is a total workhorse with the exception of this horrible AFM/DOD design.
Is there a video that shows how to replace the O ring on the pickup tube and oil pump ? I’m actually in the process of doing AFM/DOD delete on my truck. One of my lifters is stuck and doesn’t move. I also just order the kit from crazed
@@Pibs2525 the best one I have seen with 4WD/AWD that drops the oil pan is ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vbKEythkj6k.html I don’t have a lift so I did it without dropping the pan. If you want to try to do it without dropping the oil pan there is a way to do it but it takes a LOT of patience. There’s a video on that one as well.
