This video was done very well. Of the many DIY car videos I have watched, this is one of the best yet. Excellent work, and thank you for taking the time to create it.
Thanks for the awesome video! I had my filter bolt break but I'm pretty sure it must have been cracked when I removed it. Picked up another one from Toyota and it all worked great. Fluid was very dark (110K) so really glad we changed this out. Engine and transmission still feel very smooth so I can't really tell any difference but just feel better knowing it is done. The lifting up on the engine to get to the bolts on the pan is something I wouldn't have figured out on my own, so again, big thank you. By my estimates I was showing about 2.8qt removed. So I just added 3 back in. That wasn't enough. I added an additional .3qt and then it drained out as expected. So in my case I used a total of 3.3qt of transmission fluid. I used genuine Toyota fluid. In my case I found Toyota online had it on sale cheaper than Amazon. I called dealer and they gave me high price so I just ordered it from Toyota online and picked it up at the dealer. It was only $11.66 a quart. In my case, I feel better using genuine Toyota fluid. Interesting, I also did the transmission fluid on a Dodge Grand Caravan 2012 and that transmission works much smoother now. So I really think these fluids need to be changed around 100k if you want to keep it working for much longer.
great video brother, you made it look so easy, i have done the spark plug change on my 2011 v6 and that took about a month to get the courage after seeing the video multiple times, i have had the transmission serviced at a shop where all 12 qts were changed 4 qts at a time the mechanic recommended me to do the filter after 30k miles of what he had already done, which would be what you showed on this video,
The best comprehensive video Bro, efficient accurate right to the point with all the small details that you need to know when you doing that kind of job well done
4 quarts is usually enough. Especially if you give her an italian tuneup afterwards. Helps liberate any debris and other stuff. I discovered with my old fluid it was really acrid and I found 2 bugs in the pan afterwards. Bugs probably clogging the valve body.
Hello friend. Hector from Puerto Rico. Good video and job. I have a question, is the sienna is 2.7 4 cylinder, to change the transmission fluid is the same than 6 cylinder or change something? I going to change to my sienna 2011 2.7 and need more information. Thanks for the information than can bright to me.🙏🙏
I like the job. Hector from Puerto Rico. Only need to lose one transmisión bolb, no need to lose the upper and the other lower one? Other question, other video than see tell than turn on the motor for 10 second to drain the convertidor oil; is that a good idea? My sienna is a 2 7, all the process is the same except the oil than maybe is less. Thanks you for the information than can bright to me. 🙏🙏🇵🇷🇵🇷.
@@gladysserrano9719 Hola Hector! Correct, only remove the top transmission bolt. I have not tried draining the torque converter that way. You don't want to run the converter pump for very long without fluid.
I have no leeks and i just want to change my fluid. Is there any reason why i cant drain my fluid at room temperature then add the exact same amout of fluid that is also at room temperature?
I have the same 2012 Sienna and 18 bolt transmission with 170k miles, original and never serviced as far as I can tell. Is it advisable to do this, or is it "too late" and I will ruin my trans as some people warn about? It seems to run fine so it would be sad to create a problem doing preventative maintenance... Also I'm thinking of changing fluid twice to get more fresh fluid in there: once just a drain and fill, and after running that for a while then a pan drop with filter change. Or should I change filter first? Also I've heard the rubber gaskets can leak so some people are reusing old gasket with some RTV ... any precautions to avoid the rubber gasket leaking?
@@marklundeberg7006 You should be fine replacing the fluid. It's usually a flush machine that can cause issues. I like your idea about doing it twice 👍. As far as leaking gaskets I haven't had this issue before. My only recommendation is to not over tighten the pan bolts.
Since I saw the video You most probably won’t change it by myself Also I don’t trust the mechanics to do it . By the way in which state is located your shop ?
@@LuisDuran-m8c Toyota only specifies fluid change ever 60k if you are using the vehicle for towing or hauling heavy loads. But I think it's a good idea to keep the fluid fresh regardless. Every 60k-100k should be adequate 👍
@@azadamw444 Good question. A "flush" is done with a machine that pushes fluid through the transmission. Usually you use the trans cooler lines as a hook up point. To drain and refill or change the filter it is not necessary to remove a cooler line.
If pins 4 and 13 are shorted, the engine RPM drops very low after warm-up and eventually stops. What could be the issue? The odometer reads 220,000 miles, and the check engine light is not on. Similar issue was last time after car battery was disconnected for a couple of weeks. The issue gone after couple days driving itself.
The low idle RPM and engine stalling in my Toyota Sienna 2011 after reconnecting the battery might be due to the following reasons. ECU Reset: The ECU loses its stored memory and adaptive settings. It needs time to relearn the optimal settings for idle speed, fuel mixture, and other parameters. This relearning process can take a few drive cycles. Shorting pins 4 and 13 of the OBD-II port on a Toyota Sienna 2011 can put the vehicle into a diagnostic mode or clear the ECU memory, which can lead to similar symptoms as disconnecting the battery. ECU Reset: Just like with a battery disconnect, shorting these pins can reset the ECU, causing it to lose its adaptive learning settings for idle control, fuel trim, and throttle position.
@@apivovarov2 Yes. Really we are checking the fluid level at this point. Some came out of mine because I overfilled it. If nothing comes out of yours you need to fill it up some more until fluid trickles out of the check plug 👍
@@diakonosmusic3728 The vehicle is on when you are checking the fluid level at the very end. But it is off when you initially drain the fluid. Hope that helps 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I spent a lot of time leveling the vehicle from the start. Got it drained and pan and filter removed. Put the new filter on and was torquing the bolts to 8lb and one broke. Thankfully it backed out fully. Tomorrow I’ll stop by Toyota and get a new one. Always has to be something 😂
@@jameswright4387 Toyota only specifies fluid change ever 60k if you are using the vehicle for towing or hauling heavy loads. But I think it's a good idea to keep the fluid fresh regardless. Every 60k-100k should be adequate 👍
@@jameswright4387 I couldn't find an interval for the filter. When you do change the filter you'll get more fluid to come out which is good and peace of mind that it has a fresh filter in it. But if all you do is drain and refill it should be just fine 👍
Try that first. If it doesn't work then here's an alternate method 👍. Guarantee though by removing one nut and jacking up the transmission an inch or two your life will be happier when removing those two pan bolts 🙂
