gaskets / O Rings I use a - pick - 13mm 3/8 Socket - 10inch or longer extension - 3/8 drive Ratchet - channel locks 41oz R134 1 Oz R134 Pag Oil AC Line Gaskets DL3Z - 19B596 - B 9W7Z - 19B596 - A Ac Diag Light is a Police Security UV Light
I just went to a shop and they said total cost was 1k +. I’m having the same issue as explained on the video, I will give this method before spending that kind of money.
Oh wow, this was the exact problem the mechanic showed me today on my 2016 Ford Explorer. The estimate for the job is $2500-$3000 and about 10hrs of labor. He called the dealership for parts. To replace the whole line and evaporators. This is nice to have another option to solve the issue. I will show the mechanic this video. Thanks 🙏
Great vid! This seems to be a common area where evaporators leak, with cars that have rear climate and A/C. The 2011+ Dodge Grand Caravans have the same issue here as well - exposed fittings, at the rear, just above the muffler, for everything from water and mud and salt and slurry for salt-belt/mid-west vehicles to eat away at the aluminum.
Having the same problem with my wife's 2016 Explorer. My leak is on the front fatter line. Just got to see if I can get the parts from the stealership and then find a shop to recharge it. Thanks for the video, it was a huge help!
Thank you for making this video! I had this same issue - little green puddle on the floor of the garage underneath the driver's side exhaust pipe. I was thinking a blown head gasket at first but after I cleaned it up I was trying to figured out what it smelled like - only thing I could think of was a/c stuff but then I thought to myself, "there's no way a/c can be leaking out the tailpipe..." I wiped it up and after the car was driven a few times - no more puddle so I forgot about it. Well a few days later when the wife told me the air wasn't working I didn't put 2 and 2 together with the puddle that had been on the floor... I charged the system up and told her to let me know how it is the next day. She came home and said that it was no better. So after searching the web for likely leaking points, I found your video. I figured this is exactly what I'm dealing with. I did, however, have a much more difficult time getting the lines off. The first line came off fine, but it scared the bejesus out of me when it came off. It was apparently the high pressure side and it blew off and green slime came shooting out for about 15 seconds. So for anyone doing this job, be aware of that. The second fitting was much more difficult as it was corroded on really good. At first I tried shooting some penetrating oil on it -- which basically did nothing (I would not recommend doing this). Did some more web searches and found a guy who said that the hole that the bolt goes thru is pretty oversized and he used a small drillbit to drill down into the corrosion and a pick to scrape the corrosion out. The video didn't say if he was ever successful or not though. So I went and got a small stainless steel brush from menards and brushed the crud off the fitting so I could see where the hole was and where the corrosion filled the hole in. Then I got out my set of jewelers screwdrivers (which I ruined in the process of getting this last line off - but it was well worth it) and I started picking away at the corrosion. It took forever and I felt like I had only gotten partway down the hole. I tried the drillbit and was able to bore down quite a ways into the gunk with that in several places. Another hour or two with the jewelers screwdrivers and all kinds of dirt and sand dropping down into my eyes and fact and I had worked all the way around the bolt/hole. But the fitting would still not budge at all. At that point I came up with a brilliant idea of taking my 3/8" drive extension that is about 8 inches long and using that as a little hammer and started tapping on the side of the fitting on different sides and I could see more corrosion dropping down onto the ground as I did that. I spend about 5 more minutes tapping on different parts of that fitting connector and then clamped a vise grip on the fattest part of the fitting connector and to my complete joy, it wiggled free and I was able to get both sets of o-rings and gaskets changed. I charged the system up and I am now crossing my fingers that the wife comes back from work tomorrow saying that she has air again now.
Napa has something called high pressure AC compression fittings Since you are doing the job yourself you're not going to be able to replace those lines if it doesn't work for you the way you have it now because you have to drop the rear cradle the whole entire subframe assembly out of the vehicle to put the new ac lines in but with the high pressure compression fittings for a sea lines it's extremely high pressure that it holds and you can somewhere along an open spot by that rear wheel you can make two cuts in the AC line with a Sawzall or some kind of pipe cutter and then you can deeper the pipe once you get it all cut out of there you'll have to order a new set of ac lines and basically cut the new ac lines where old cut is and then high compression fitting the new lines into the old set and you got to make sure you get those real tight when you put the new ones on and it will save you hours and hours and tons of money by using those AC compression fittings and you'll have to measure the lines whenever you go get them because there's different size ac lines They look like this I don't remember the exact size of the two lines you have down there Check this out! a.co/d/4T9NuLb Another thing that people do is if they don't really want to put the money into the rear AC system on this they will actually put in block off plugs in the AC system and only have front AC so they don't lose everything so you can look at AC block off plugs as well and you'll basically follow your rear lines all the way to the front and wear it comes down off of the firewall and you'll take those lines loose inside the AC block and then you'll put a set of block off plugs in there so you can at least retain your front AC and you just don't have rear AC
This is up to a 2016 Ford Explorer it's a rubber high pressure AC line setup I've never used this company before but this is an alternative to that line that you have it's supposed to be just as good and they call it a lifetime warranty you can actually replace that entire line assembly using this company style AC line and they say they give you a lifetime warranty on it and this actually stopped you from having to drop the rear subframe and all that other crap it's still a little bit difficult to install because you still have to go over everything and you have to Route it a specific way to make it work but you don't have to drop the rear subframe assembly out to make it work www.ebay.com/itm/184141047396?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=184141047396&targetid=1645685073768&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9021645&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073768&abcId=9300841&merchantid=8342034&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu-KiBhCsARIsAPztUF3NZ_krpVJxhkXxYU15-2MxmXxC-xAk13EuVMU9rQ0Qwxk9tpTW6hIaAmUTEALw_wcB
It looks like its on the driver side rear near the muffler. Thank you very much for this video . I had that, but only after a service technician grossly overfilled my system and after I had it 10 years and 1113k miles. He was saying it was rusted and happens. I can see now it happens but the stainless or alluminum line isnt rusted and he had over charged it. Not Ford but a local service place.
Thanks for the video. Local independent shop told me I needed a new compressor on my 2010 Flex and I didn't really think so. Put some R134 in the other day, and it all came out back at the rear fitting. Never knew there was a fitting back there until I heard the hissing after I'd tried to refill it. Anyway, my guess is that I don't need a compressor, just a repair. Thanks again for the detailed video. I'm no mechanic, but had a dad who was and I appreciate using the right tools and keeping the costs to a minimum.
Great video, i hav ethe same problem with my 2015 Explorer. one questyion? do I have to empty the AC in order to be able to disconect these lines? I hope not. thank you.
Hey man, thanks so much for this. I have a 2017 Explorer with 137,000 miles on it. I love the truck but noticed a little puddle on the floor behing the rear driver side tire. Brought it to my local guy and he replaced the washer cause he said it was all corroded. Took him a few hours to get it apart. Well after all that work, it is still leaking. He asked me if I want to just eliminate the rear AC system or fix it? Fixing it is very expensive and at this point I may look to get a new vehicle. I’ve had a few things fail over the last year or so and I don’t want to dump money to keep fixing things. I need peace of mind.
Me again! Got the parts, just unbolted the leaky one, reviewing to make sure I'm not missing anything. Sitting in my driveway, did not even lift the back. I did undo the exhaust holder and mud flaps to get clearance. One question, you say oil them, with what? I used brake lub, hope it will be fine...
Have you ever seen the aftermarket rubber coated washers not work? We went through that on a Lincoln. The aftermarket 4 seasons guys were not thick enough. We still had a leak. Replaced again, still had leak. Used Ford parts and its held charge for over a year
As you were installing the kits you mentioned about oiling/greasing these up. What type of oil/grease did you use. I changed these once already and cleaned them up good with a small brass bristle brush but I believe they're leaking again. The nuts are tight. I saw a small wet area in the same location that I installed these kits. I live just outside of Buffalo,New York and installed these kits in the Spring. Thank You!
You don’t show evacuating the system and recharging. Why are you turning the nuts counter clockwise to take the lines off? Are the studs and bolts left handed threads
You don't need to see me using an AC machine that's something that not everybody has so it's not important to people secondly I had the front facing camera on which makes everything show up in Reverse so I'm actually turning it the right way it just doesn't look like I am
13 explorer xlt v6 I have this problem AC not working. AC LEAKING. 7.00 875.00 REPLACED REAR TO FRONT AC LINE. Air conditioning service 2.25 100.00 Service air conditioner. Check condition of all belts and lines. Evacuate and recharge with reclaimed R-134. Hazardous Materials. What the repair might cost me?
Love this video man. Some great info here. Had a guy come into the shop today with a 2012 A/C exploder issue. Good thing he has an extended warranty! Thank you for this content.
Auto Cooling Solutions make rubber AC lines. Would you recommend these type of line vs. OEM for Michigan Winters? Around $850 for flexible line replaced vs. $1400 for OEM lines.
This is going to sound stupid and I hope someone can tell me. The rear evaporator line that you’re fixing can separate into 2 piece. Can you by just the piece that connects to the evaporator and the rubber hose or do you have to pay for the whole line?
You can order the lines that go all the way from the front to the rear and then cut that part you need and use high compression air conditioning fittings or you can replace the line all the way back from front
@@FordBossMe So you can’t just buy that one section at the rear. You have to buy the whole line. I have a picture of it, but idk how to describe it haha my apologies
At the end when you are using the blower, is that tube you blew for a few seconds a evap drain tube for the rear system? Or is the only evap tube on the front of the firewall? Thanks for the vids
Wow. I just spent the last few hours replacing both blend door actuators. After that didn’t work I found your video and sure as shit I have a ac leak right in the rear where you said. I just checked the charge last week and it was perfect. Weird. Thank you for this video! I can now go to sleep knowing I atleast found the issue. Thank you.
Napa makes a kit where you can actually get a compression style fitting that's super heavy-duty for ac lines but you'll need to order a new set of lines cut the ends off of it and then you'll have to use these big giant compression fittings to splice the new ends back on and then reattach to the rear evaporator
Do you know if this same issue with 2020 Ford Explorer Platinum. Bought my explorer back in 12/2020 took it to dealer for no AC. They said it was empty on Refrigerant. They charged it and put a Dye in the case there is a leak. That was like 1 month ago. Now having same issue and have to take it back to the dealer. Wondering if it’s the same issue.
Took my Ford Explorer 2014 to the dealership today and was quoted 3.5k for parts and labor. However I feel confident enough to do this repair on my own. How difficult would it be to replace the entire rear ac line?
I'm dealing with the issue explained in this video right now with my 2017 Explorer Sport. The reason guys are getting quoted 8-10 hours of labor (my Ford dealer said 8 hours of labor and ~$2,200 total cost) to replace the entire run of lines from under the hood to this rear drivers side location where the leak occurs - its because the fuel tank needs to be removed. At least this is what the dealer wants to do for this job.
I just got under back there and with my hand I can feel air coming out. Probably not supposed to feel like a vent is actually blowing around the the front one of the two?
I went to a shop and this was the diagnosis was a leak in the rear just like in your video. 3 options were a complete replacement of the rear AC hoses ($2600), splice it ($1100) or cap off the rear AC and only get AC in the front ($750). That’s all Canadian dollars. What’s you opinion on that? What ballpark amount did you charge this client? Thank you for the video! I feel like I’m being taken for a ride here.
The high-compression splices work very well most people just kept the lines and only go with the front AC It's 8 hours to do the complete lines new lines so that times the shop labor rate
I see this a lot. But usually the ones I see are so corroded you actually have to replace the whole lines front to back. All the road salt where I live really puts a beating on those lines back there.
Yep they make splice in kits for when they are out of warranty I've never had one I couldn't get off yet, guys in the shop think I'm crazy. I'll work it until to comes apart...I make my own special concoction
Mine leaks, again. Got it fixed under warranty 3 years ago on my 2016 sport ex. They estimate 3500$ as they will change the entire line. I assume it is the procedure... Can you tell me if there would be something I can say to my mechanic for him to be aware of this procedure. Would prefer avoiding telling him to look at a RU-vid video, no offense.
It's kind of up to you and how you want to approach things I mean they make high compression fittings for ac lines that they store at Napa from a company called ATP
Ehhhh it's hard to say, possibly yes More than likely - No Reason I say this is if they didn't get into the structural support of the vehicle and it was just exterior panel then - no
Hey, just finished pulling my rear apart after it's life in IOWA winters. I wish mine had come off as easy as yours. TIP I used a Dremel tool and 5- 1/16" drill bits " had to do a little rigging with wrapping paper towel around the drill bit for the collar to hold". And used that to drill out the corrosion around the bolt enough to wiggle the fitting free. Problem I found on the leaking line was the end of the piece that goes into the block had corroded off below the washer. You had mentioned a kit to attach a new end onto existing lines already in place. If you could link that I would appreciate it. Been looking but unable to find just the aluminum ends. Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions. Also looked at just blocking off if needed.
@@FordBossMe Ok awesome. Do you know or have seen someone that sells just the end aluminum piece that attaches to the block going into the rear a/c coil? That way i can just cut the aluminum tube of the old line and attach new end with that fitting.
Yeah I got a pair of channel locks and a pair of vice grips and I played like hell getting it out of there and I took a pic and I had to keep running it around the inside of where the fitting goes in to clean out as much corrosion as possible it's very hard it's extremely hard
I think they have some that you can insert there but no most of the rear delete fittings are out front on the engine as it goes down the back side of the engine you got to follow the lines that drop down under the vehicle and if you follow them up there's a connection where they attached to on the back side of the engine before it goes down the firewall you just have to follow the ac lines you'll see where they are you won't have no more questions after that and they put a block off plate on each line right there
No but right at the back of the engine by the firewall you can see the two ac lines that go back there there's a junction right there and you undo those two ac lines and you basically slide block off plates right on those ac lines where they go back and you charge your AC system up to operating temperature and that's it
We have a 2021 Ford Explorer and one day the ac was cooling and the next day it was empty of coolant according to the dealership. they checked it and said it does not have a leak and want to charge me for refilling with coollant since the cannot find a leak. I will be getting the car back next week. where should I look for a leak. since the coolant just magically disappeared .
I'm lost because you were saying something about the air conditioning and you keep saying coolant and the air conditioning system doesn't have coolant it has Refrigeration r1234y as the charge As for where you should start looking I don't know because the new ones have not leaked on us yet
It's two lines that you order together and it goes to the rear evaporator and it starts at the connection behind the driver side of the engine by the firewall and it goes all the way to the back of the vehicle so in order to do it correctly you have to drop the rear subframe out of the vehicle I mean that's the whole axle assembly and everything the cradle and all to get the lines to go up over it or you can use high compression air conditioning fittings from Napa find the right sizes that you need and do the work yourself right there by the driver rear wheel well you basically just cut the lines order new lines cut the section off that goes into the evaporator and then reinstall the part that goes into the evaporator with the high compression air conditioning fittings they work well but you have to be very careful and clean when you do it so either way this is all the information you need right here there's nothing else
Thanks! That's exactly what happened. It was a little weird swinging by the shop and seeing the entire back end dropped down so they could put the lines in
Thank you for making this video! Do you have any tips on getting those connections apart? I'm not having any luck. Channel locks are taking small chunks out of the metal, and they won't budge. I've used rust penetrant and picked out as much gunk as I can. Theres no material for a puller to grab onto...
All I've done is take a small pocket screwdriver and just keep working and turning that thing back and forth back and forth once you get the nuts loose and off of there if you take a small thin screwdriver or pick and you run it up around the stud and you keep cleaning out as much junk as you possibly can eventually when you start moving that Junction back and forth and spraying rust penetrant up in there it comes free and it sometimes takes a long f****** time to get them apart some guys get frustrated enough resulting to using some kind of splice in kit or new lines because they become too impatient and they don't want to keep working it
Is there a way to confirm that this is the cause of the leak, prior to changing? Will it make a hissing noise or something if it is indeed leaking from there?
There's always a possibility that you could have more than one leak but the tall tale sign that this was a leak here was all of the green u v dye around the connections plus all of the oil and then you use a UV light the verify it
Help I have a 2012 explorer and my ac don’t blow cold. We put gages on and it shows full of Freon we come to the conclusion the expansion valve mite be bad but we can’t find it can you help ?
It didn’t work for my 2011 ford explorer. Ford is charging me $3600 and everyone else wants $950+ and that’s just labor,not even including the part. Thank you tho. It was a quick and inexpensive process.
I did ALL the orings on my windstar except the rear air... didn't know they are that easy to get to, been doin fine for a year knock on wood. Is there a coupling there on windstars too? no lift and too old for creeper duty
@@FordBossMe Thanks!!! I'm not going going to worry about it as long as it's blowin cold.. i was thinking the O-rings would be behind those interior panels ugh. Is there something up to speed w Aldata or Mitchel a retired wrench like me can get on the home PC???BTW-->U Rock!!!!
@@autojohn-pu1vf there is alldatadiy. It’s still a subscription service, but it’s cheaper and available for consumers. $30 per year or $50 for 5 years.
2017 explorer limited..taken it to several mechanics (including dealership) because of intermittent cold/hot air blowing with no solution. I'm in VA..where are you located? I need you to fix it!! So frustrated
But I have seen other guys have come back because they put the lines on too quick and they roll the O-ring and it leaks right back out and they crushed the end of the port that goes in the evaporator because they try to go too quick
You wouldn't really smell this leaking inside the car honestly Is your plastic trim pieces around your windshield on your Explorer cracked at all? And if they are did you fix them by putting silicone around them or something like that?
@@FordBossMe No but I did just have the windshield replaced with a new OEM. That is what I was thinking the smell was coming from also but I had the windshield co. come out and check and they said there was no leak. do you know if there is a drain pan or something in the back by the rear condenser? I ask only because I am not sure what the two rubber hoses are that are coming out of the rear condenser. any information is greatly appreciated.
The replace the lines from front to back it is about a 5 to 6 our job and then the evaporator case would be about another couple hours so you're talkin probably between 7 to 10 hours for everything total ballpark
What they do is they have been doing rear evaporator block off kit and the lines that go to the rear they just disconnect them and put plugs over the lines little plates and they only run off the front AC and it's more than sufficient to cool the whole vehicle but they just get the AC line block off kit so they don't have to go through replacing all of the stuff to the rear
So there's two ways to do it remove everything and do it the expensive way or use AC high compression fittings and you have to get the factory lines and cut them down
I think I might be having this same issue on my 2016 explorer. By any chance could it leak from the front cause I see a clear oil based fluid running down my tranny from a hose that looks similar to the one you are removing. Please let me know if that might be it to sleep better at night and go get it fixed on Tuesday lol
What you should do is get a fluorescent light that's made for AC leak detection and check that fluid and as well as the rest of your lines and you'll see where it's glowing
@@JCRUZx91 TIP I used a Dremel tool and 5- 1/16" drill bits " had to do a little rigging with wrapping paper towel around the drill bit for the collar to hold". And used that to drill out the corrosion around the bolt enough to wiggle the fitting free.
@@Randomgearhead that's very possible, but what I want you to do cuz I want you to take your sniffer and put it around the ac lines that go into the cab around the foam piece take like a plastic trim tool and push the phone kind of backed out of your way and look back inside there with a fluorescent light and see if there's oil coming out around the connection where the thermal expansion valve is
Got an exploder in the driveway over here, same year range. Green oil everywhere under the engine, dripping from the rear seal on the compressor. Looks like compressor time. Along with a system redo, dryer, orifice/expansion valve and condenser+ seals.
Yeah if you didn't Evacuate the system and pull all the freob out as soon as you loosen the nuts...freon is going to start coming out You have to have somebody with an automotive air conditioning machine evacuate your system first
I never really have any problems with the AC compressors but I do have problems with the rear AC lines and the actual crimps for the ac lines that go to the compressor they leak alot but the compressors themself I have never had any failures
@@FordBossMe - With the old Explorer I installed the compressor to the engine and the hose to the compressor. Now I just put the compressor on and make the connections….. 600 times a day Shot over 1,000,000 compressor bolts. It adds up
Hello, I have 2021 Ford Explorer 2.3t with about 20k miles. A/c is having some wierd smell coming fr vents..its comes and go. Its not smell of feet,or humid..its more of an Ozone smell or kinda metallic smell..ford dealer in SA,TX..could not duplicate the issue..anybody having same issue or what done to fix it... *NO coolant or a/c leak. * I've done electrolysis test with multimeter its fine and coolant not dirty (visually and numbers i got for the meter)..or should i just do a coolant flush? Any ideas?
My A/C is working fine until I turn on the the rear A/C… When I do, compressor stops working and no cold air comes out. Any one happen to know the issue? Would really appreciate it
I'M REFERENCING MY 2007 TOWN CAR SIGNATURE.. don't know if you can help me Mr rich I know I'm posting under the wrong thing too but here is my copy and paste question that I've been asking my friends and I can't find an answer to Dante suggested that I asked you so here it goes "Morning guys. So a little backstory to unpack I've just put a new compressor on the car and I'm having a refrigerant leak somewhere I've changed the accumulator I put a new rings I've flushed the air conditioning condenser I've changed the orifice tube I've tested the high low limiter my fan is brand new and my clutches engaging I cannot find my leak even using dye in the system. I even hooked up the manifold gauges and rented a vacuum trying to pull a vacuum couldn't seem to pull the vacuum and I can't find the leak even gone to the length of using an air compressor and putting dye in the system again and pushing 130 lb of air in and it seems to hold but no UV die leaking that I can find anywhere am I missing anything that anyone can think of. Over the last month I've put in eight cans of refrigerant and not on top of each other I know how to put them in and I know how to vacuum the system before I put them in and I know that I'm supposed to put in 28 Oz I have the right peg oil put in with the new compressor what am I missing???? I ask you.. "
@@FordBossMe when I had the engine changed out in February I noticed immediately my air conditioning wasn't working and everything was fine before that then I found in the mechanics trash under some things the rubber piece that goes around the evaporator core in the dash and on my last engine I had replaced the compressor and the pulley and orifice tube and every single damn thing even the evaporator and when you change the engine out he gave me all the old crap kept the new stuff and recycled it on the engine he said so I've just had to replace it all again I bet that piece of rubber that was all ripped up that belong in the dash is where the leak is if it is the mechanic's name in South Haven Mississippi will be exposed. Rich where do I start with this too troubleshoot it I'm going to have to take apart the glove box and the dash or can I do it from the engine compartment
Do you already have a video because you describe things in great detail with wrench sizes and step by step if you've already got one made I would be lucking out if you don't can you suggest one that's on RU-vid that does a good enough job someone almost as good as you I follow FORD MAKULOKO also
@@FordBossMe it was the evaporator core I replaced it and then next thing that went out was the blower. So that's replaced now. Only blowing about 55°. I'd like to have it colder
