2011 cadillac CTS - misfire / oil pressure sensor P0523 

I know you're a good mechanic from the quill subject 👌

Shoosh, don't tell him where the manufacturer gets it's parts.

When people came in for a tune up (1975) they always wanted a new condenser. I told them the same thing. Condensers either work or they don't. And of course, a few of them returned with drivability complaints. I put there old condenser back in the distributer. :) You do great work here!

I hate going in there after someone else has done a bunch of work on a car. Ok, I hate it when I have to work on my car after I've done a bunch of work on it. Mostly because I forget to use never seize in places it should have been used or because I knew it should be used in certain places but I didn't feel like using it because I figure something else will die on the car that wont be worth fixing before I'll have to replace the part that should have had never seize

Brother, when you do swaptronics such as #5 & #1 coils, you should also do #5 & #3 spark plugs so the plug and the coil possibility of having a problem will follow the problem component in one shot and you will get a visual of the component that does the actual firing, and perform a plug inspection/reading. Mark the coils, here is what a customer does not understand, DTC PO3O5, you do swaptronics and replace the BAD coil in #1, the new part does not match the DTC so as a minimum, we have to annotate the work order or we can simply put all the parts back where they were for the sake of the next Tech if that is not you. Autolite is also JUNK when in a non-Ford. The majority of RU-vidrs put the Scan Codes around the 1 minute mark, yours is at the 8 minute mark. You have Bank 1 Rich and your spark plug is black around the bottom of the threads and at the junction of the ground strap, we would need to see inside the plug at the inner section to get a better read. Then if not difficult, I would compare a B1 to B2 to see if B1 was actually Rich. You cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, replaced the intake gasket, and you second guessed yourself on the smoke test. Which one of these was the actual problem, a test for richness should have been accomplished after each cleaning AND you did not look at the fuel trims or O2 activity at all. during the video until the ending. Please expain to your customers that going to AZ to get a free code scan might be ok, they tell you that you need something, you dont buy the part, no worries because its only a gas cap. Next week another code pops into the ECM, the money light is already on and your engine blows because there are 13 addititional codes that you are unaware of and could have prevented death by checking for codes, for free, a bit more often. Even us as Technicians need to double and triple check for new codes while we are working on the vehicle during the day or two days. Here you are with a new Rich code, why, because you cleaned something and made it better, WTF. Thanks for the video.

Where can I get the handheld scanner you are using in the video?

dude theres no way you wouldve known to do a smoke test on that as a first fix attempt. still a great find man.

Poor lady needs a good mechanic

HOW ABOUT MISFIRES ON A 2000 HONDA ACCORD

Dude, hi. please get a tripod. video moves toooo much. we tend to leave.. just too much.

So did you figure out why the back windows were going down for no reason?