Soldering the wire back together worked. The car runs like normal and the throttle is back to a steady 800-900 RPMs at idle. Check engine light is gone and there is no more lag in throttle response. Thank you for watching if you come across this video. Just another video helping people wherever they are in the world.
Yes. Check your relays and fuses before you jump into the fuse box. Simple resistance test can do wonders. You can even test relays by putting power through it. I think there's other RU-vid videos on that particular test too.
Video did help out a bit, so thanks for that. We still need to stop child abuses though - being at the core of where humanity goes wrong and being the source of the decline of humanity causing so many avoidable problems.
I made a video of this problem like 3 years ago. It's surprising to see so many people having the same issue. GM still has not issued a recall or even a TSB about this issue. I called the dealer to order a fuse box today and it's still on back order. Excellent video btw!
Just passing on some good vibes to other people in the universe. Car is still running fine. A smothered the line with sufficient solder … i think eventually the heat cycles effect the copper wiring… it’s only a matter of time until one of them breaks and cause issues.
The saturn aura which is the exact same no videos lol come to its cousins for service help thank you two for these videos was about to burn the car up!
@@mcorcoran6376its not difficult. I used the same screws/bolts that goes through them to hold the bottom connectors in place. I just tapped those screws back in from the back to knock out the square sleeves
Whats the part that needs replacement? Is it called a fuse block? Im not a car guy at all XD Can someone please send a link to a replacement part I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu and I'm having the exact symptoms of this issue
I had a broken conductor as well. I saw this on Advance Level Auto channel. Mine broke on the next 90 right above yours in this video. Symptoms were Power Reduced, Service ESC, etc. I just put mine back together going to test drive for 2 days before I call it fixed. Thank you and others for posting these videos!
100% recommend this to check first for a solution to the problem. Except for the Rivet nuts i had to drill out due to fear of breaking something else inside the box with brute force. Sawed off the end pieces of the square washers to replace after soldering the break (in the same exact spot) and worked just fine. Took it to a local mechanic who threw 1000$+ parts at it not solving the issue due to it only happening during operating temps. Now the car is running fine so far, waiting on a replacement fuse block. Thanks a ton!
2012 malibu just hit 100k and had this issue took 20 min to remove and another 20 to 30 taking apart and I had this problem sodder it today going to throw back on tomorrow good video
That's what's up! I have the same issues with a 12 Chevy Malibu I'm working on at the moment, I checked out all the grounds, was all good. Next move is to check out the internal workings of the Fuse Block. Thanks for the info 👊✌️
How did it go? Sorry. I’m always on RU-vid but never check my own videos. Hope it helped. I’m starting to think that Chevy knows the issue and doesn’t recall this entire assembly. It’d make them look like idiots.
@@brodyz8327 Took apart the fuse box, and put some heat to the Board, and Bam👊🏼 There It was 🔧👍🏼. So then I put some solder into the connection for temporary fix, That worked great, I eventually ordered one from a local dismantler and replace the old fuse box, Car runs great. Thanks for sharing the video.
I have a 2.4L Chevy Malibu LT & It fixed my issue. It would get to running temp and then the car would start shaking and give me that Power reduced. The only issue I had doing this was the retaining sleeves… omfg they are difficult to remove. Anyways after unplugging the connections to the fuse box I noticed that burn mark on them and lord and behold I noticed a wire that was cracked. After I soldering back together ii haven’t had anymore issue with it whatsoever so thanks bro
I believe this is the source of the secondary air injection issues I've been having. There is an open circuit producing a P0412 code. I just popped this box open and can see corroded connections and broken copper in mine already.
I have a 2012 2.4L Malibu with 82,000 miles on it. I haven't had this problem (yet!) It's obvious GM has to know this is happening, since it's happened to multiple year Malibus and they don't care or they would have done something to address it. It looks like there's not much room for the wire, but they could of tried to make the wire just a hair larger and maybe it would hold up better. Thanks for the video. Who would have thought to look for something like this.
This seems to be a later life issue. Most videos I’ve seen of this issue are with high mileage Malibu’s/impalas. Currently experiencing this with my 2009 malibu at 180k miles.
Question I am not seeing a fracture in the wiring. I did follow the process by heating it up before viewing and still nothing. Should i purchase a brand new fuse box?
So I wonder how many GM cars are still on the road with these defective fuse blocks? The copper conductors could break most anywhere creating many different problems. And I suspect replacement fuse blocks will do exactly the same thing in time. My '09 Saturn Aura has developed an intermittent no crank condition & I suspect this may be the reason.
It's exposed copper wiring so it's bound to break over time. Heat cycle from the engine compartment and it's electrical load can cause that thin wire to erode and makes it brittle. At least that's what I derived.
@@brodyz8327 I totally agree with you. Unfortunately for me the part is on backlog and the dealership doesn't know how long it will take to get the part!
@@michelledarkentell2264 depending on your expertise, you can try and resolder the circuit if you find the correct gauge copper wiring. I think the contacts are punched into the plastic mold. A little heat and force would probably wiggle it free. Or if you have a pick a parts near you, just salvage it off a junked car. Just a thought.
@@brodyz8327 Thanks for the suggestions! I know nothing about how to fix a car. I would probably hurt myself unfortunately. But the good thing is I know what's wrong with the car and I can try to find some cheap mechanic who might be able to find the part. Thanks for all your help.
@@michelledarkentell2264You original video was Sept 2020, and the box was back ordered from GM. Today is Sept 11, 2021 and they are still back ordered and the dealers say it may be another year or more before they get caught up on their parts shortage. SO, you either try to fix it or take a chance on getting one from a salvage yard.
This is such a common problem. I just posted a video about the fuse box as well. I was having the intermittent crank and actually got a bad fuse box from the dealer. You talk about a waste of time diagnosing.
Whoever thought of that I gotta give ‘em here ups idve never thought about that n million years n not Bragg but I’m very mechanically inclined but yeah give yourself a pat on the back for this 1 god bless
I replaced my fuse box and know it won't start I had it unplugged for a week or so do I need to get it reprogramed or something all relays work no crack no start
My 2010 did the same thing....the chevy service center changed the fuse box after replacing the computer and sensors....the fuse box replacement fixed the problem at least for my
I have a 2011 buick regal cxl and I have thrown so much money and time into my car and is acting the same as you described. Mine is starting to shut off after 15 mins of driving it every time I'm about to come to a stop. It will start right back up but once it's hot it will run rough and idle is so bad. I'm About to take apart my fuse box and fingers crossed that it's the problem. I've done everything else but this and I'm almost at the point of trading it in and don't want to. Pray for me guys
Something similar happened to my Saturn Aura 3.6, after throwing near $1000 worth of parts at it i opened up the fuse box and there was a break in the copper wire and the car would not start after heating up. I then soldered the break and it worked perfect after that.
This video is very informative, I’m not sure if this is my problem but it makes the most sense out of everything I researched. I’ve seen a lot of videos talk about the throttle body etc, replace it, but then still have issues, I don’t want to do that. Is there anyway you can do a follow up video showing how you took the fuse box out and how you soldered the wires? It would help a lot! I’m trying to fix this issue myself without spending too much money and I feel like I’m close to solving.
My car starts sometimes too sometimes when I start it does noting not even a noise but wants it starts I can down there start it all day then the next day I can’t start and gots to wait
My car is currently having similar problems. The car drives fine when cold. Soon as the engine heats up the rpm meter starts fluttering. The weird part is that once the rpm stops working and kicks to 0, the car drives fine until it shut off again. It has also thrown code P0336 (crankshaft sensor) which I replaced but it seem to make it drive worse now to the point where it will cut off at stop lights/signs. The mechanic said I probably need a new computer but I will try the fuse box 1st
@@jaigoudeau7927 I got the problem fixed. I took it to the dealership and I guess they reset the new crankshaft sensor and it's been driving fine every since. Cost less than $150
Wordering if u can help me I have a 2008 Chevy Malibu and sometimes I have to jiggle the POS wire that goes to battery to starter to start my car why and what could it be
punch them out with something wide enough hit the outside rim of the sleeves. I used a flat head screw driver and a hammer to get them out… careful not to break the plastic. GM still hasn’t gotten to back orders on them.
I have the same issue plus my break lights has amind of its own and i usally have to jump the car every day the battery n alternator are good tho my remot start stoped working and i can only usee alarmpad to pop my trunk its a 2009 chevy malibuive droped somuch money tryin to fix it lol any help is greatly appreciated
Check your writing coming into the back of the fuse box in the trunk. Mine had similar issues and I found the wiring on the back side of the fuse box wasn't pushed in really good and it would lose connectivity while running because of the vibrations. Make sure all the wiring is pushed in good and it might help solve your problem like it did mine.
Hey bro I have a question. So my car is starting to die on me while driving which is worse than what it originally was. At first the car would start, then immediately shut off. I would just shake my rear fuze box slightly and it’d start( that’s also where my fuel pump fuze and relay is located). It’s worse now and will actually die while I drive because not even fuel is getting thru, so idk if I need a new fuel pump, or the fuze box is bad. Lot of electrical stuff wrong with my car aswell. Would I be able to get new wires for the fuze box or something ?
Hard to say. I’d take apart the fuse box and see if you can locate any breaks in the wiring. Second best option is to try and find a replacement part from a junk yard or parts puller. Don’t know how much that would be but that would be a second option. But I would get into the fuse box first and see if you can fix it yourself.
@@rovert9888 no fix yet brother. I ended up getting a new fuze box from a pick n pull, and the issue was fine for a month (thought I fixed it) and now it’s back. My car won’t start so what I do now is take out the fuel pump relay, and put it back in, and my car starts. Eventually it’s gonna get worse though and start dying on me while driving again.
@@rovert9888 I’m thinking it’s something wrong with the wires connected to the box but not sure. I try to scan my car for codes but nothing comes up in regards to my fuel pump. I’m trying to save for a new car as of now because the issue is bad
Not seeing a fracture in the copper wire. Shouldn’t I be looking elsewhere. Everything is cutting on in my car except for it not cranking. Should I just by a new fuse box. In the past 2 months $1900 invested and still no results.
It’s electrical. Somewhere. Something is shorting out or not making proper connections. If you’ve gotten to this point, check every single fuse, ground wire and fuse panel. No crank is absolutely a problem with these Malibu’s.
Whats the part that needs replacement? Is it called a fuse block? Im not a car guy at all XD Can someone please send a link to a replacement part I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu and I'm having the exact symptoms of this issue
A socket of similar size, line it up with the sleeves on the inside and knocked them out hitting it the socket with a hammer. They are pressed into the hole but they do come out with some force.
Figured it out.... Once you knockout the screws out. Use the screws on the opposite side. I used a socket extension and hammer. Wiggle the sleeve(s) with pliers. Hold the pliers and hit the screw out. The lock joints on the sleeve won't lock in on the screw in the opposite direction.
Did you have to drill the bottom of the clips to get them out? If not what did you use to push them out. Attempting to check my fuse box and got it out but can’t get it open ☹️
Sorry for the late response. I used a punch and hammer to get those sleeves out. They take a little bit of force and the plastic can be brittle so be careful.
MFs... That is a Defective PDC/Fuse Box in my book; A Possible Accident Causing Hazard as well.... A Recall for sure...Any other videos on any other car makers' PDCs/Fuse Boxes on much older vehicles that came with lose/weak latching fuse/relay terminals or other defects from their factories/suppliers and how to address those flaws/defacts? IMHO the trace wires are too thin to handle any extra heat and or any larger currents and corrosion; also they are easily exposed to humidity and road salt in rust belt zones and coastal areas....there is no protective insulator or coating, or at least a little bit of dielectric grease applied on those bare looking wire traces and or contacts either
Overall this is good information to know but why not give all brief details 🔛 getting the fuSeBoX off away from the clipped in within itself underside, sOo crappy videol dude, before actuarial actual ness upon getting it off would'Ve been great,
