Andrew K interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out how to restore a battery try Battery Recovery Tactics ( battery.RecoveryTactics.com ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my cousin got cool results with it.
The video was long, but after I watched it. It was interesting, and you saved me $900 .the told me it's the alternator but after I changed the fuse it's charging like new.thank you very much.
You may have just resolved my headache. I have a 2010 that kept dying on me and every light imaginable came on the dash board even the check engine light. It would jump start though. I took it in to the dealer and after spending over $500 there..the next day it died on me again when I was out shopping. Dealer hasn't called me back as they said they would. I'm certain they didn't do a thing to my car. I changed the battery, paid over $200 for a new battery and it seemed to be good for about 24 hours. Yesterday it died on me again with a brand new battery. A gentleman in a Ford Fusion group send me this video and I finally feel hope. Crossing fingers!
@@PhillipBailey the service person who took my car was more concerned trying to sell me a car than focusing on what I asked. When he called me to update me he gave me reasons that I suggested when I dropped it off. When I picked hp he said the crankcase tube was disconnected and that was the cause and that whoever changes my oil probably did it. Oh. And he forgot to fix the tire pressure sensor fauly that they supposedly fixed last year and also take care of the passenger side airbag recall. I lost faith the next day when I got stuck again. FORD Service dep in Concord, CA SUCKS! I am pretty sure they're not going to refund me and I would really like to have them look into this battery draining problem, at least to get my moneys worth in labor or something but I feel like they're just going to keep taking money from me and not actually fixing my car. Wish you were closer!
hey ,if anyone else wants to uncover restoration battery try Battery Recovery Tactics ( battery.RecoveryTactics.com ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my cousin got amazing results with it.
Hello. I learned today this Ford Fusion doesn't have an alternator. My battery goes dead after a few minutes of running and I get the "check your charging system" error. Car quits. I will let it sit for 15 minutes starts runs for a minute then goes dead. I replaced battery fuse not luck. Icalled Ford dealer parts departments they were cluless other than one telling me it has no alternator. I called a shop and obe guy told me it has a generator not an alternater. Just prior I had ASE certified tech with hybrid training go through each battery and checked out the entire hybrid system. He said the stem charges like new. He suggested that I change the battery fuse too He mentioned the alternater could be bad but I think he meant the generator If it has no alternator why is there an alternator 10 Amp fuse?
It has neither an alternator or generator. The high voltage DC battery is stepped down to around 15 volts the charge the 12 volt battery by a DC to DC transformer. You need to scan all of the controllers in the system with a dealer level scan tool for codes to start with.
OK we replaced the DC to DC converter ECM square box whatever it's called that sits on the passenger side above the windshield washer bottle. Ford factory reprogrammed to my car Car ran fine then got the battery charging error as I mentioned. It was installed by professional with dealer tools That was expensive He assured me hybrid system was fine. We drove the car after that. Now I have this problem.. I guess as you mentioned get it looked at again with tools. The reason why we replaced the box is that it was wrecked in that area causing a dent. Thanks for heads up. I am too far into the vehicle to give up
Im having the same issue on 2016 hybrid fusion, im getting code P0A11. In the morning I'll check the fuse. Hope that's all it is....thanks for the video
I have a 2012 Ford fusion SE the battery is good the alternator is good however if I let it sit overnight it won’t start unless I give it a jump I don’t know what else to do ?
Is it a Hybrid? You need to test the 12 volts battery for a parasitic draw. There are many videos on RU-vid showing various methods of doing this. You will need either a low amp clamp or amp meter to do this. I'll post a link to a video for you.
So the problem was the fuse? 28:30 and why did they think the battery was dead? My car won’t crank or start at all. was that what they were experiencing? How much is a new fuse and if I try jumping the car as is will it cause more trouble?
The 12 volt conventional battery can be boosted in a normal manner. It just powers the vehicle electronics to wake up. The high voltage battery charges the 12 volt battery through a DC to DC convertor. The 200 amp fuse at the battery can fail if the 12v battery has a short in it or you try to boost someone else from your car. Need to put a good battery in the car then see what the 12v battery measures with the key off. Should be between 12 and 12.6. Turn the key on and it should climb to 14 to 14.8v. If not measure voltage at the input side of the fuse. If its over 13.5 the fuse has failed. The Ford dealer had this in stock as i believe its used in some non hybrid applications as well. Was around $80.00 here so I would think $50-60 usd. Good luck.
Phillip Bailey, you have given me food for thought. I bought a 2010 Fusion Hybrid with 105,555 miles at auction and picked it up today. The 12v battery was dead but I was able to get it started with a jumper battery. If I turned the key off I’d have to jump it again. The car will only go into ev mode in reverse so I’m not sure what’s going on there but it may just be the end of life for the hv battery pack. Fortunately the internal combustion engine works great and is getting about 37mpg on the highway. Back to my first problem... I drove it to a shop who read 11.83v on the battery and suggested replacing the battery as they believed the “alternator” was working properly. Thanks to you I now know better. Anyway, I’m driving the car 3000 miles cross country to my home but now I’ll stop and get a volt meter and do some further testing before driving on. I’ll let you know what I learn. Thx again.
@@ChrisHiltonSr 11.8 is not charging. As soon as you turn on the ignition without starting the iCE the high voltage battery pack will begin to charge the 12 volt battery through the DC to DC converter. You should read 13.5 to 14.8 on the 12v battery at that time. If not check on the other side of the fuse i showed in this video. With the ignition on and the HV battery draining it will automatically start the ICE as required to recharge the HV battery. Be careful working under the hood with the ignition on as the ICE may start without warning. Could be sketchy if your routing a drive belt... It should have a disable switch when the hood is open but this one did not for some reason. I know on GM hybrids if you open the hood with the engine in idle stop it automatically starts the engine. You may also need to clear all codes from all controllers to restore proper operation of the hybrid drive system. That will take a dealer level scanner. Even Snap-on would not do it on this vehicle. Needed Ford IDS. I'd try an Autel Maxisys Scanner that might work. Keep us posted. Good Luck
Phillip Bailey I’m updating you from on the road at my hotel in Du Bois, Pennsylvania, en-route home. I got that meter and have 12..5v at the battery with the ignition off and 13.8v with the ignition “on”. The fuse block on the positive terminal checked good (120 & 200amp) so I suspect the hv battery is at end of life. Sadly, I just don’t trust a dealer and a random mechanic do the work and put in the effort with the diagnostics like you show in the video or give me all the information. I’ll check though and also look at the diagnostic unit you mentioned. Having a trusted mechanic in your circle rates right up there with a having a great life partner 😂
@@ChrisHiltonSr you could try an Autel Maxiap200 scan tool. They are pretty good at network scanning. Work with your phone. Available on Amazon for about $100. Good luck
Hello Philip my name is Tom and I have a 2012 Lincoln MKZ hybrid with a low voltage error I did check the fuses and the same thing I was reading 14.5 on the 120 side 11.3 on the 200 side and went to dealer to see how much for the part but dummies gave me the part number for the cable not the fuse and they said that that cable was discontinued which is why they gave me the part number I was wondering if you could give me the part number or the name for the fuse connector it would really help me
Near as I can tell this is what you need. Try your local parts store for Dorman 926-014 Dorman 926-014 Battery Fuse Compatible with Select Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Models a.co/d/4L0u1Ou
I have 2011 Ford Fusion , recently I replaced the engine at home but after installation of engine with all the cables and harnesses the engine no crank no start. I was looking if it have the starter but I think there is no starter
If this is a Fusion Hybrid there is no conventional starter. It uses one of the Motors inside the transmission. You need to check all your cables connections and grounds. Scan the network for codes. Why was the engine replaced? Was it still cranking before it was removed?
@@PhillipBailey Thank you very much for your prompt reply, it was over heating and yeah it was cranking and car was drivable but we noticed it overheating then we decide to replace the engine and we replaced the engine all together with transmission. what you think it might be the transmission ?
@@ShahSafi You will need a full function scanner as Bluedriver will not scan all modules. MaxiAP 200 is your cheapest best bet but that may not do it either.
@@ShahSafi I'm sure there is a computer inside the transmission and it's likely vin specific. I'm assuming you put in a hybrid engine transmission combination. If the computer in the transmission came out of a wrecked Fusion Hybrid it may be locked due to the accident. You will likely need a Ford scan tool to test it. Good luck
I've been experiencing a problem with my 2011 FFH (65,000 miles) where I unlock the car just fine with key fob and then when I get in and attempt to turn the engine with my key I lose all power to the dashboard as well as any functionality to the dashboard. I noticed today that when this happens the Airbag light on the dashboard blinks repeatedly. I've tested the battery and it's totally fine and very recently replaced as well. I've been driving around town and had this happen to me multiple times where when I leave the car and come back there will be no power and then if I wait 10-15 minutes it miraculously has power again. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be here?
You need to have a network scan performed and retrieve codes to start with. Being intermittent I would believe it will be an oxidized connection possibly in one of the CAN bus networks. It wont be easy to track down but scanning and clearing codes and then scanning again when the problem comes back to see what returns.
Really appreciate your reply, when I plug in my OBS scanner the screen just blinks in the same way the airbag light blinks and then when I turn over the engine the blinking stops on both the scanner and airbag light.
@@TheUndecidedGamer so when the problem is present will the scan tool communicate with ANY control module? You will likely need a full function scan tool. An OBD2 code reader won't cut it. Also you may have to manually ID the vehicle if the scanner won't retrieve the VIN from the ECM. It's sounding like you might have a network communication problem but besides measuring termination resistance with an ohm meter there is not much you can do unless the have a lab scope, wiring diagrams and the knowledge to diagnose the network wiring. Sorry but no silver bullet...
How much is a new battery where do I go to get a diagnostic test? & how much does that cost. I just bought my car now it won’t even crank or make noise when I open the door
Ask around who has knowledge of the car you're having a problem with. As far as tge cost goes that is really tough to answer. I personally would quote an hour to hour and half to diagnose but thats me. That doesn't likely get it fixed just tell you whats wrong and possibly provide an estimate on further costs. I'd like to think the Ford dealer would be a good choice but it depends if the tech has hybrid training or not. Good luck.
@@emilyscott1372 If the fuse is burnt then just replacing it should fix it. A shorted cell in the battery can blow the fuse but most likely will blow if you are trying boost someone with the Hybrid on in ready mode or if someone boosts with the polarity backwards or connects the battery backwards. The 12 volt battery is required to turn on the controllers which turn on the high voltage contactors. the HV battery is not affected by this fuse. No special programming is required although you will need a dealer level scan tool to access and clear codes. Hope this helps...
