This video shows a transmission failure in a 2013 Fusion Hybrid. Explains how the transmission works and diagnostic steps performed. Diagnostic codes retrieved were P0C2F, P1920 and U1010.
Hybrid vehicle tech is interesting. You have an amazing talent for teaching quickly. Was randomly looking for clues why my 2012 escape hybrid has issues and thought "wow this guy is awesome". This Video is not directly going to help me fix my escape hybrid problem, but I understand a lot more than I did 8:30 ago. Thank you for putting so much time and thought into your videos for others!
Your Awesome man!!! I learned so much in 8:30. I got one in Friday. No crank start no coms no range sensor indication on dash. Rear bat dead. Thanks so much!!!!
Thank you for the info. I am learning what to be aware to take care hybrid vehicle. At first I thought there is no starter motor and just engine oil to worry about but I am not correct. The transverse gear lubrication seems harder to check than internal combustion engine transmission fluid. It is more like a differential fuild. The worst thing about this is you are almost not able to check the condition in the garage when you are trying to buy a used vehicle.
Thank you! We have been having this issue for a year. None of the mechanics at our ford dealership knew what the problem was and my husband has been trying to figure it out himself. This s a great help.
I have this problem on my car. Now it won’t move. It did the same noise when you started the car. The engine would run and then stop. Im afraid my transmission would looks something similar to the one you showed. I still haven't taken it to a mechanic, but I just know this won’t be a cheap fix. Thanks for the video.
@@percyvasquez2402 Tks for replying So, the transmission was bad? Did you find out for sure if that was the problem. Thank you, I really appreciate your help. I’m planning to work on it myself and probably save a little bit on the labor part
I have a 2013 ford fusion hybrid and there's the problems I'm having and would appreciate your help. One morning I started my car and that red waring triangle showed on the dash. I turned the car off, started it back up and it drove normal but i did feel a few minor jerks. The next day as I being to drive the jerks had got worst and I could not accelerate over 10 mph without the car shaking and vibrating like crazy. I got it towed a shop but the weird part is that I drove it from the shop I initially got it towed to, to two different shop and back home in it drove normal with no jerks nor shaking. But the DTC codes that all three auto repair shop gave me including the Ford Dealer were P0A2A, P0A78 and P0A90. P0A2A Drive Motor A Temperature Senor A Circuit P0A78 Drive Motor A Inverter Performance P0A90 Drive Motor A Performance Would highly appreciate your response. Thank you.
So what you are saying is.... have your car inspected and serviced regularly? I'm on my 4th transmission fluid exchange and am happy to report, no transmission issues here!
Good afternoon. I watched your amazing video. You show a very deep understanding of the processes in the car! Can I ask you for help? (sorry for my English, I am a refugee and I have only been learning your language for 3 months). I have a 2013 FORD C-MAX ENERGI. I bought it used and drove it for a month without any problems. Then the problems started. First the "check engine" light came on. And a few days later the STOP SAFELY NOW message started appearing. But it appeared differently, and not as indicated in your video (8 seconds after the start and when I turn on the car, I do not hear a loud rattling sound). Here's what I noticed about this problem: 1) It always occurs only when I am driving and press the brake pedal. It never happens when I press the gas pedal or don't press anything. 2) At the same time, the steering wheel is blocked and I have difficulty driving to the side of the road. 3) At the same time, the climate system fan turns on at maximum speed, but air is not supplied to the cabin. 4) At the same time, the car cannot be turned off if I press the brake pedal. I can only turn off the car if I take my foot off the brake pedal. 5) IMPORTANT!!!! After turning off, I wait for 7 to 15 minutes, then I hear a short buzzing sound inside the machine (1-3 seconds). Then I turn the car on, the STOP SAFELY NOW indicator does not appear, the engine starts and I can drive again. If I try to turn on the car before the buzzing sound inside, the car turns on, but the message STOP SAFELY NOW appears and the car does not move. I always wait for the buzzing sound and then I can drive again. After this switching on, when I can already drive, I have 3 display options on the panel: a) there are no error messages on the panel. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem may happen again and again, even after a few minutes. b) the "check engine" light is on. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem also may appear again and again, even after a few minutes. c) the “check engine” and “wrench” indicators are on. In this case, I can drive as long as I like and the STOP SAFELY NOW problem does not recur. But I noticed that in this mode the car does not switch to driving with an electric motor. The car runs only on a gasoline engine. In all three options, the indicator shows that the battery is charging. Sometimes, after parking for more than 1 hour, I turn on the car and the "check engine" and "wrench" lights immediately come on. In this case, I know for sure that STOP SAFELY NOW will not appear and I drive a lot without problems (only with a gasoline engine). The problem can only appear when the "wrench" indicator is off. In addition, I noticed that sometimes when I drive at a very low speed (for example, in a traffic jam), I feel periodic jolts (jerks). It seems like something in the mechanics is trying to connect, but it doesn’t work. When I accelerate, the jolts (jerks) disappear. During of three months, 2 times happens these jolts (jerks) turned into strong vibration. I stopped, turned off the car, turned it on after some time and there was no more vibration. I left the same comment under your other video about the STOP SAFELY NOW problem. I will be very grateful for your comments on my problem!!!!❤❤❤
It would be helpful if you could get the codes pulled out of all the modules to point you in a direction. The blower speed change along with it is kind of strange, ground maybe?
Hi how are you doing I have a question can you please help me out I have a 2010 For fusion hybrid That red triangle and that And that yellow range And that yellow range That yellow key But Ivan running and I am going to do a complete stop I throw it into neutral and it won't turn off And the other thing That it does If the car is cold It will go reverse It will go reverse After the car warms up If I put the car in reverse It won't go on reverse It will start jerking like a best friend not a gas But it will go for Thank you for your time And I will appreciate it send me a comment
Very helpful! I am at 230k miles on my Ford fusion hybrid and I'm thinking it's time to replace my Trans fluid. Some mention a lifetime Trans oil, but I'm not seeing anything that says my car has that. Is it enough to just empty the old and fill with new with no need for a Trans filter change?
Dang. Guess I've gotten lucky with mine. 210k miles on everything original and I haven't changed the trans fluid. No issues other than the airbag light randomly popping on. And the backup camera almost never turning on. Lol
Your video is truly awesome and did a very good job of explaining how my transmission works I’ve always been very curious. I have a 2018 Ford fusion hybrid SE , you think it could have the same problem?
Nope , I have a 2018 hybrid fusion SE and have the same problem with it right now. It will start with some noise then it turns off . Have the triangle warning , can’t move the car cause it only stays ON for like 3 seconds
my wife's 2014 cmax has 130,xxx miles and it makes a whirring noise like a wheel bearing. very annoying when im drivinv it at highway speeds. its a good car and i might have to change the fluid. hope it just needs fluid
cant remember off hand what codes my 2013 Fusion Hybrid Titanium has but there was multiple including engine speed sensor... but mine acts the same way when trying to run it. Starts, cranks, revs high for a couple seconds and engine dies off and theres a bad bearing type of sound as it slows down, then the Red triangle of death appears. i noticed i can start the car and put it in neutral real quick but as soon as it goes into R or D, it revs high and dies off.
My 2013 energi se has this problem, I replaced the camshaft postition sensor, but now it sometimes won’t even start, or it tells me to stop safely now before I even turn the key to start the engine. I don’t know what it could be and no one around me can work on hybrids. And now it doesn’t even show I have any codes, when before I replaced the sensor it gave me P0A3E, P0340, P0344, and P1A41.
The P0A3E definitely indicates an over heating condition, but you shouldn’t get that cycling the key on with a cold vehicle, unless you mean turning the ignition off and back on when the drivetrain is all ready hot. I’m not sure what to tell you about the cam signal codes, other than I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a bad cam sensor on a Ford other than the older vehicles with drop in synchronizers. Do you have access to Forscan or a scan tool where you can look at pids on the vehicle?
Thank you for the very informative video. I have a 2016 fusion energi with a recent increasing growling noise. I suspect a wheel bearing rather than the input shaft bearing due to vibration at highway speeds, pulling to left on braking and intermittent swaying at highway speeds (was aligned and balanced). Might you know what year they upgraded the bearings on this CVT model to help remedy the problem you addressed. Thank you for your help 🙏🏻 Update: It's been 2 weeks since I dropped off my 2016 Fusion Energi. Dealership said it was the transmission, personally I didn't believe it was. Should get it back in a week or so. They did order a new transmission from Ford and will install it under powertrain warranty (8yrs/80k for hybrids). Estimate at least 2-3 weeks before you can get your car back.
My car 2014 lincoln mkz hybrid. Been throwing up a red triangle. Pull over safely warning. The transmission seems to run perfectly. Ive had issues with that fault in the past. Lincoln dealership replaced the battery which seemed to fix it for nearly a year. Now its back. Had the fault 4 times. Which seemed to be back to operational if i turn off.. open the door.. and turn back on. If its the battery power input.. i question it being the issue once im driving.. cause shouldn't the alternator take over? I read somewhere it could be a sensor or chip. I just feel most mechanics avoid hybrids. So its hard to trust dealerships to get a real fix for this issue. Maybe I'm just paranoid. All i know is the fault is back. And my car tends to run flawless otherwise.
Really the place to start is to get the codes pulled from all modules. That should at least point to what system has been causing the problem. There’s quite a few things that can bring up the red triangle of doom. As far as charging I don’t think that car has an alternator, or what you would traditionally consider an alternator. It charges the high voltage battery from the generator in the transmission. It uses a high voltage dc to low voltage dc module to convert the high voltage from the hybrid battery to 14.5 volts to charge the 12 volt battery. It should charge with the engine running and possibly with just the key on if the high voltage battery is in a good state of charge. Get the codes pulled from all modules. Until then you’re just guessing.
Thanks for the video. My Fusion hybrid has 360,000 miles and when switches from engine to full electric it has a knock, but if I go easy with throttle is unnoticeable. Can that be repaired? Or just need to change the whole transmission?
Never noticed any noise, but I had the emergency shutdown on my 2013 and the dealer only replaced the rear main seal. They did not replace the whole transmission. Now, nearly two years later, there's another apparent leak from the transmission, and they're trying to tell me they will not cover the seal replacement. I would argue that losing transmission fluid twice has likely damaged the transmission, and with the TSB note, they should be replacing it.. ugh, dealers
Hello, I have an issue with my Ford Fusion Hybrid 2013. My transmission was very loud and ofter showed "Stop safe now". After removal there was a low of oil and the same whole in transmission like in your video. We replaced transmission for a new one and I have a new issue. When I step on it engine goes to high rpm and shows "stop safe now". Forscan shows one error: P1920. During a peaceful drive transmission works perfect. I checked crankshaft position sensor and it works fine. Could you please give me some advice? Thank you!
If the engines going to higher than normal RPM when you step on it, it sounds like it’s having trouble holding the engines speed down / sending power to the driveline. The starter generator has to hold the sun gear for power to go through the transfer shaft to differential. Could be an electrical or mechanical problem there or even an issue with the transfer shaft. It’s hard to say.
A question I have with my 2018 Ford Fusion. No check engine lights, seems to shift thru the gears and runs. When you touch the accelerator pedal it makes a loud rubbing noise like when you cut rotors. When pressing the accelerator petal hard it almost feels like it could have a possible slip. Any ideas or outcomes?
Question. On the ford fusion energi hybrid, when in EV mode, the aux trans pump is required as the engine driven pump isn’t spinning,,, if the aux pump is failing, will that force engine on?
I have a 2015 C-Max 48,000 MI when the battery is depleted and it goes to engine drive it seems like the CTV is racing and the car is not going as fast as it should be this is my third C-Max in my other two did not act like this any suggestions had the Ford dealer check it out he said nothing was wrong
That’s a tough question without hearing it. If they’re not finding any issues with the Powertrain I’d probably wonder if it’s a noise issue or excessive engine noise for some reason. Exhaust leak, engine mount transfer?
I purchased a 2014 Fusion Hybrid with 140k and changed the fluid myself soon after. The fluid change is very easy to do yourself, a basic fluid pump and basic tools is all that is needed. My car now had 170k and sounds great but the engine does seem to shake excessively when starting up, I'm guessing a motor or transmission mount is worn. The engine in this video seems to shake like I imagine mine does. Does anyone have any experience with changing mounts on these cars? I plan to change my transmission fluid soon again since I'm not sure it was change before 140K.
I can’t say I’ve had to replace any mounts on the hybrid. Some on the regular gas engines and a few torque / dog bones as well, but nothing on a hybrid yet.
Пытаюсь снять коробку с такой же машины, но не получается- мало места вывести за маховик. Вы снимали ее вместе с двигателем? Или есть какие то уловки? Спасибо
The subframe has to come out with the engine supported. If you lower the back of the engine a little you should have room to slide it off the flywheel and remove the transmission.
I have a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid and was thinking of having the transmission checked! Would just topping off the fluid be enough or is there filters needing to be replaced at certain miles?
@@CarShopTalk I'm not a favorite of just adding oil/transmission fluid to worn out stuff! I was thinking of replacing the transmission fluid and A/C system refrigerant at about 250k miles, but I don't want someone saying it needs a filter if it don't have or need one. My engine air filter is installed under a fender and is considered a lifetime one, but replacing it has been recommended by a dealership! Sad!
Outstanding Shop Talk video on Ford HF35 Trans. I have just bought a 2014 Lincoln MKZ 2.0L FWD Hybrid with The Hf-35 xCVT trans and it is leaking out about 3qt, but the car drives great. Because of the leak the Transfer-shaft assembly (EG9Z-7H348-A) bearing and cup should be shot, but those parts only cost US $410 right now. Is it possible to put a rebuilt used HF35 eCVT or even a newer Ford 2017-up HF45 eCVT and not have to reprogram the power transfer unit? The only cable that comes out of both trans are the hi-voltage drive/regen motors and the low-voltage data cables (that reads both motors temp and speeds). From what I have read; the HF35 has no brain or need for VIN programming itself. I ask because my locale Lincoln Dealer just quoted me US $10,000+ to replace the HF35, recalibrate the Lane-departure system, and realign the wheels. Since I was not born yesterday and value my family's treasure, I figured I would ask an expert. The car is beautiful and still drives it just need seals and bearings but no trans shop in or near Chicago will touch these eCVTs due to Ford's EV service equipment requirments (an anti-static bay). I have removed FWD trans and replace clutches before and I am thinking of removing and rebuilding my own trans because of inflated dealer costs. Any help you can provide would be much appreciated "for eductional info only... lol". Thank you for your time, sir. BTW: Can you do a trans removal video on the HF35 and HF45? That would be amazing.
I can’t say that I’ve had a transmission out of a 2017 or newer to tell you if there are any differences. I’m a state or two over from you and a bit more rural / in the middle of the corn fields lol. While there are hybrids around I don’t get huge numbers of them in the shop on a regular basis. I agree there’s not really any modules inside the transmission, but I’m not sure if all the electrical connectors would be the same or the resistance on motor windings, or even the number of poles in the electric motors would be exactly the same to where nothing would throw a fit and it would work. It seems like it would work and would be worth looking into. I’m trying to get this weeks video done tonight, but remind me in the middle of the week and I’ll try to look up and see if the electrical connectors are the same between both years.
@@CarShopTalk Question: Do you know if on the 2013 HF35 eCVT trans when replacing a DG98-7000-EC transmission with a "Used" Transmission, if there should be no need to reprogram the trans-control-unit(TCU)... right? I just need to make sure the Part and FHEV matches on both trans? (I know I should call Ford and make sure both remans match, but matching the oem number should work too.) My concern is that the HF45 trans has, like you said, a different timing or resistance and is incompatible with the earlier HF35 TCU. But putting the HF45 aside, It looks like removing the 175lb HF35 trans from my 2014 Lincoln mkz is as easy as: (1) removing the 12V battery in boot, (2) Pulling the HV disconnect in boot, (3) putting the front of the auto up on jack stands and removing the front tires, (4) remove engine belly cover and draining the trans, (5) removing the HV trans lines from both the trans and the TCU and cover the holes with duct tape, (6) removing the trans cooler lines, (7) remove the round black trans data connector and cover hole with plastic and rubber bands (8) supporting the ICE, (9) support the trans with a trans jack, (10) remove both drive shafts, (11) unbolt and drop the trans. Did I miss any steps? My plan is to try to inspect the trans and either rebuild the HF35 eCVT trans or buy a used trans and inspect then install it. The black data connector on the front of the trans has, what looks like, 26 small wires coming out of it. Maybe I under estimate Ford's ablity to complicate simple data ports. Maybe Ford put a simple ID chip in the connector to limit peoples ablity to swap transmissions. It just seems like way too many wires for two speed and temp sensors. And the trans labels seem way to complicated with QR codes and barcodes, that in many cases last longer than the trans. Dang Ford/Lincoln, but the MKZ is a beautify auto. Trying to make it work in Chicago. Thanks
@@GallowayChicago Recently replaced my 2011 MKZ engine due to cyl 2&3 knocked causing bad 27mpg. Was trying to pull out engine only but not enough room to separate tranny even though it doesn't have torque converter. I could force it but wanted to clean tranny and replace both axle bearings anyway. So I end up pulling both engine and tranny together.
@@jdzenab2300 What was your mileage after the ICE replacement? Another crazy thing the ICE for 2013 are around $500 but the eCVT are around $2000 from my local bone yards (within 200miles). Are the 2013/2014 and 2011 MKZ hybrids the same dimensionally from wheel to wheel in the front? It look like the 2013/2014's are wider. I would much prefer to just slant the engine and pull the trans, but if slanting the engine puts strain on the exhaust and the exhaust has to be removed then how much effort am I saving? I know the smaller body C-Max has to remove ICE+eCVT, but I thought the larger 2013 MKZ would allow eCVT removal as long as the ICE was supported. I will remove the bottom cover and take a good hard look. I want to do this the easiest way possible (relatively speaking). That needless eCVT ID is making me hesitate, because when I am done installing a donor trans I will have to take it to Ford to re-program the car (still out 3day to a week and a half in my area). Trying to see If I can just swap the data port connector that must have the ID chip in it.
@@GallowayChicago 300k, car was previously Limo service and was my commute car 800miles per week. I'm actually very impressed. I considered selling it but knowing it can get to 300k miles, will just keep it.
My ford fusion hybrid 2018 SE is showing stop safely now,could it be transmission failure please i really want to know ? What it coul 8:17 d be besides transmission failure ?
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP! I drive a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid! 112,000 miles! I bought it off Copart & fixed it up! It was going good for a month then I was driving on the highway a week ago and the car shut off & a red triangle came up saying stop safely now! Also the check engine light came on solid. So I pulled over & turned the car off. Then when I turn the car back on everything is gone except for an exclamation point light that has always been there. Also it was saying change TPSM so I did and that went away. Now it says Tire pressure low but when I go to put air in my tires they are already above 32! Anyway so the stop safely now and check engine light keeps popping up and the car shuts off then when I re start the car I am able to drive like normal again until it randomly pops up again! Please help! I’ve tried looking online but I can’t find nothing specific!
hey Amanda check your fluids in the car and check the air box if it's not loose behind the left headlight and the check engine you must scan it with an obd 2 scanner
I have a 2013 Fusion Hybrid with around 72k miles. No noise or performance issues as of now, but wondering if I should have the trans fluid changed? Does this work the same as any trans flush/fill?
I don’t know if there would be any point flushing it since it doesn’t have a torque converter. Changing the fluid wouldn’t be a bad idea and it has a drain plug and a fill plug.
WeberAuto recommends it at 60K but I don't think dealerships do it then with the 60K service. Probably a good idea not sure if you transmission has an electric pump that lubes everything up when the engine isn't running.
Hi many thanks But Im scared now i have 120k kilometers around 75k miles , main question can You tell how can You avoid it , Im changing oil every 30k miles would help it??? mine is 2015 se hybid
I had this problem but now the vehicle doesn't even start. It goes straight to the red triangle. Any chance the symptoms displayed could be related to a bad hybrid battery?
Hey that for explaining this....i have 2018 fusion with a P0e4e code the dealer tell me "probably" the transmission and the local shop states possibly the engine...because that a engine failed to crank code? Would you by any chance know how to fix the code ( i have the red triangle and vehicle wont start anymore..)
That’s really just an informational code. It just means the engine didn’t crank when it expected it to. It’s really not helpful to diagnose why the engine didn’t crank, and there are endless possibilities as to why.
I have 2013 FFH, second owner at 150k miles, now at 170k miles and I been thinking to a flush, go to ford, ford declined to do it since they said they dont do tran oil change for 150k or higher, tried to find shop some of them dont do it. Wanted to do myself but lack equipment, it doesn't make any noise, except when it starts, it sounds like that but only does sometimes like start in the morning , my dad said its probably an engine mount, but I think its spark plug? Like it misfiring badly or something. Anyways thank you for you information!!
@CarShopTalk yeah it doesn't sound normal, only happen when engine is cold and hybrid battery is depleted, but I tried to have at least 50 when I get home, seems to be better
My 2016 Energi won't run the engine very well at all. I had to charge up the EV battery entirely to get it to the dealership. Even in complete EV, I had to watch my acceleration, otherwise the vehicle would shake very violently (also sputtering and inconsistent acceleration) and then tell me to pull over. I have to restart the vehicle for the warning to go away. I came to a complete stop and it did the same thing, but the car in front of me could hear the same shaking and banging noise. All this in EV mode! The engine never came on.
Your issue is bad coil or coils and needs spark plug replacements as I had same issue. I had 2 bad coils which made the vehicle shake and not run unless on battery
@@Salbritt It was so weird. Turned out to be someone poisoning our gas tank.. They flushed the gas out and it ran just fine after. Then it got totalled a few months later by a road divider 😭
Hello, I just had a new transmission installed in my 2015 fusion hybrid, “no plug” in, the codes on the transmission from the sticker matches from the old one to the new one before I put the new transmission in the old transmission had a horrible winding, but it drove and shook real bad after and the gas motor would come on, putting the new transmission in we get the red triangle now that shows these codes can you please tell me if the new transmission has to be programmed to the car if we use the same electronics or can you tell me what my issue could be thank you for your time. These are the code with the new transmission installed, the car will come on now, won’t move or start the gas motor and the red triangle comes on Poe4e-00 P1A0c-00
The transmission strategy and ID do have to be programmed to match the new transmission. These should be located on a sticker on the transmission, the strategy is 13 characters long, the ID is 11. P1A0C indicates failure mode effects management is in affect. P0E4E indicates. The engine failed to crank due to being locked up or other reason.
@@CarShopTalk thank you so much, I have been searching for 4 hours on answers. When you say locked up, do you mean bad motor, or maybe no crank? The motor was just fine when we took it to the shop for transmission replacement, after replacement is when we had issues.. again thank you so much for your time🙏🏾
@@jhybki I would guess anything that would keep the engine from turning when it tried to crank it could set that code. Can you put a socket and ratchet on the front of the motor and turn it by hand?
So I just had my 2013 checked today and likely has this issue. I was quoted 6700 and 10 hours for replacement for so sounds about right. Was the TSB an actual recall on these? Unfortunately I am at 160k miles so probably not something I can get covered under the drive train warranty...
I live in Jordan Middle East and we have a lot of fusion hybrids like a lot and all of those generations from 2013_2017 have trans problems and I don't know why is this problem common especially in the new gen I have an older model 2012 hybrid and I have done 120k miles and still runs like a charm
I went to Ford.com to look up the "whining noise" and was referred to a video...Players.brightcove.net that explained what that Ford dealer master mechanic said was "making" the noise, but nothing about it being a "pedestrian alert"(I wasn't sold on THAT part anyway😂).
@@dianachambers8237 the whining noise it's actually the internal bearings of the transmission is failing and it costs here 1300$ without labour so I advice you if you want to buy a fusion hybrid buy the 2012 model with low milage its the most reliable have a good day ❤
I'm having an issue on my 2014 Fusion Energi. Car has developed the tell-tale loud whine when gas engine turns out. Dealer + third party repair say the transmission is bad, but they can't really tell me what exactly is wrong with it and the car is working just fine. I bought with 76k and am at 187k so very plausible it's time to repair or get rid of, but since the car works fine (aside from noise) and no one can really exactly tell me what's wrong, I'm unsure how to proceed. UPDATE: Dealer confirmed metal shavings in transmission fluid, indicating something may have broke. Third party said they had a gear ratio code error.
I would guess the bearing is failing like the one in that video but it could be tough to diagnose if it’s still working. You could drain the oil and see if there’s any signs of failure there, but metal will stick to the magnets in that transmission, so the only time you’ll see metal is if it’s progressed far enough to grind on the aluminum case.
Just read your update. I think there was / is a tsb on repairing that issue in those transmission, but I’ve never done one. Most of the ones I’ve seen failed so badly they had a hole in the case / or they kept working until that point.
@@CarShopTalk Thanks for the tip. Searched TSBs and it looks like maybe one or two might address it. Was headed towards a replacement but will search around for a good rebuild shop and see what they think.
Will a bad PCM cause transmission problems? Mine shows up as P0C2F, P1920,C0564,P013A P060B,P0811.Battery was dead charged it up hybrid battery is completely dead.I bought this 2016 Fusion Energi as is ,no charge cord came with the car.The reason i asked because i thought those transmission problems were fixed for the 2016-2020 Fusions.
@@CarShopTalk Most of the time P060B Internal Control Module A/D Processing Performance is most certainly a bad PCM and since it controls the transmission that could be cause transmission shifting problems if no unusual sounds are present.
@@CarShopTalk If no noise or damage to the transmission like n your case it’s more likely the PCM or wiring connected to the PCM if you are getting a lot of codes relating to the fuel 02 sensor crank shaft and transmission.
@@CarShopTalk Update ...it was not the PCM or transmission even though it was throwing codes P0C2F P060B ,the hybrid battery was completely drained.Ordered a replacement HV charger couple days ago charged the hybrid battery to 100% no more codes, stop safely now not showing, running perfectly.
The cables didn’t momentarily get placed on backwards or anything did they? I’d probably retrieve codes, possibly try to clear them and see if anything comes back.
I found your video VERY insightful. I have always been interested in the workings of cars. I bought a 2020 Ford Fusion Plug-in Hybrid Energi about 3 months ago and it makes this horrible whining, violin-type sound that stops when the car is put into park. What could cause this?
Re Whining Noise in 2020 Ford Fusion...I spoke with a Master Mechanic at the Ford dealer who explained that the noise is coming from the electric hybrid battery only when the car is in this mode. The noise alerts pedestrians that the car is in motion since it makes no noise otherwise.
My 2013 hybrid is squealing like a pig. Only when the motor starts and its coming from the transmission side. 150k on it. Love the car. Hope to figure it out
@@CarShopTalk there's a video showing the starter/gen motor bearing making the same sound as mine. Might be yours too: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HmXdA3OyQwE.htmlsi=7CdEX9Oa25y4jKGd&t=35
My 2013 Ford C Max Hybrid has the same problem. Grinding noise on the transmission and looked like loose transmission support. My Car has 141K on it and still runs. I am glad I have Car Shield. I will stop by a transmission shop to have this fixed.
Hi sir I hope you ok I hv Ford Fusion I re-build this engine when I start the car this code come up p1a0c:00-6c hybrid powertrain control module can you help I start the car 8 seconds then cut off
Can’t really say we’ve had to many issues with them since the upgraded the bearings and idler shaft. Really it is a simpler design than a conventional automatic. I think the Maverick comes with the 8F35 if you get the ecoboost / non hybrid engine.
@@CarShopTalk I would like to explain exactly what is happening. When I give gas and the speed increases to 80, then it says stop salty now and maybe you can help me tell me what is wrong.
@@davitrene3294 Does the gas engine start? P1920 indicates slippage between the transmission and engine. Usually if this is the only code in it the damper has failed. If that’s the case usually the gas engine won’t start. The transmission spins the shaft that goes to the engine, but the engine doesn’t spin or start. There can be transmission problems that cause that as well, but you’ll usually have additional codes in the SOBDMC if that’s the case.
Probably nobody bothered to change the transmission fluid on this car. I assume most of the owners don't read the manual, so they may not even be aware that there is a transmission fluid to change into their eCVT car
I had the "Stop Safely Now" come on....took it a shop and the mechanic said it was the transmission and said 7k! That's what I paid for the car! So I left and the warning went away and it's been driving fine ever since! It's been 3 months and about 3k miles So, not sure why the warning light came on, but it drives like new.
I would sooner bet some of the electronics or the transmission over heated. Doesn’t sound like the transmission should be condemned, especially if it’s worked fine since.
@@CarShopTalk yes. To be honest it had been a while, however, didn't find anything on this type of thing until after my bad luck. And of course the bad sound happened right after 100k miles
It is a shame! Ford`s Hybrid is a Licence Build from TOYOTA! But ONLY Toyota can build QUALITY! As i can see every Day on my 2004 Prius with 225.000km on the ODO! FORD ... OMG!
I can't tell you how many head gaskets I have done on the Toyota Prius. These things sucked coolant, and some bent con rods. Most Toyota gas engines are oil burners now too.
Please change the fluid!!!!! Every 20k miles!!!!!!!!!! Everybody complaining about trans issues with over 140k on the odometer and I’m sure 95% of them has the original fluid. Come on! Don’t buy that shit that a trans fluid is lifetime fluid hahaha. Common sense.
I don't think it matters with a Ford - this transmission had a TSB for 'premature bearing failure' - part quality issues don't care about regular maintenance.
