Wanted to chime back and say thanks as the video was spot on! Just finished my wife's 14 (was a 2.5 hr job as I got lucky and nothing was stuck) and wanted to share a couple of items for future readers. You can do this without pulling the hub from the strut. Yes go rent both pullers shown in the video, a tube of anti-seize and a quart of trans fluid before starting. I was able to break the axle nut using a 25" breaker bar and 32mm air socket from Harbor Freight along with the handle from my floor jack as a cheater bar. I put the whole vehicle on jack stands with the drivers side a couple of inches higher as it reduced fluid loss a bit but made a much easier work angle for me. You also need both fronts off the ground to unload the sway bar. Lastly do the seal while you are in there. Up next is the external trans filter, have done it on other vehicles and noticed you did it as well.
Thanks for posting. I've got the same problem on my 2012, and will probably do the repair when it warms up. Based on your video I'll borrow that pusher/pulled set before I get started!
Good video. Very informative and the different angles shown were great! Adding the light to see the transmission seal was a nice touch. Also showing the OE unit and replacement unit side by side to see the differences was helpful. Keep up the good work!
I hope I will never have to do this on my car .. I.m not a young buck anymore and try to stick to oil changes,rotor and brake changes nowadays. Well actually there is a spark plug change and maybe an engine mount in the near future .. still easy stuff though. Its the stuff with a lot of hunching and bending over that I dread. Thank you for all your helpful videos and so sad to hear you finally sold your car. Hopefully you left the new owners your number so you can fix and record any issues they may have .. :)
After the swap did your car have a low vibration at 20mph then goes away? The CV axles were aftermarket and exactly the same other than the rubber bushing thing on the middle of the metal shaft.
I have a 2017 mazda with 25k miles and when I turn all way left or right with the steering wheel it makes this weird screech noise (like metal contact, it isn't loud but noticeable). Do you think the whole axle is done or the cv inner/outer joints are bad?
That feels like warranty job. I'd ask Mazda dealer to fix it under warranty. Noises are notoriously hard to diagnose over the internet. They are usually isolated with microphones mounted in the suspected area.
Great video, my wife's 14 just started ticking on hard left turns so after watching this I'll diy it. Question, did you run into any issues not replacing the trans seal and roughly how much fluid did you have to replace?
any way just to refill the grease with a grease needle and pump in through the opening of the boot itself? just wondering...thanks love your videos...the best
You don't need to refill. If the boot is broken, you can buy a new boot and it will comes with new grease. You will need to disassemble the current CV axel and install new. It is not an easy process, if you are up to the task, look for mechanics posting how to on that. The process is way to involved and at times requires special tools.
No. It is a magnet based system and reads from wheel bearing, so unless you are replacing a wheel bearing, no issues with abs. Biggest problem is if you need, getting a correct tranny seal.
@@sigor2011 In my Mazda5, both axles spit out their grease from the inner boots, so I am ordering parts at the moment. Any update or comment about Trackmotive as a replacement part?
