Very cool video. My neighbor has a Traverse, and we bought a block off kit off of Amazon. It blocks the high and low pressure lines in the engine bay by the firewall. The ac in the back no longer works but cold ac is flowing from the front.
Listen, I just want to say I appreciate you for even posting this work. I am dealing with the same exact issue. About to order the piece you suggested to get the job done.
Very good video. I’m hoping the issue isn’t the same with power steering line rubbing a hole in the rear lines…. But, I’m also now expecting that’s what I’ll find. Grateful for this video.
Same thing happened to my Buick Enclave I ended up just splicing that part with a splicing kit bought off Amazon less then 50$ saved me a hell of money & work same hole...JS
Great job. Forgive me if I ask this question but would it be possible to mix some 5 minute epoxy and apply it to the indent of the tubing where the hole is and wait for it to set up a little and then wrap it with hockey tape or something to hold the epoxy in place as it sets? Or even bondo? Just a thought.
It's possible yes.. but for how long? Freon will leak though aged AC hoses. Also. What about the heat/cold cycles? Soo yes it's possible. But for me I wouldn't trust it.
Why not cut that long ass line into pieces while it’s still on the vehicle and just pull the pieces out. it’s just a suggestion. It would have been nice to have seen a glimpse of that new AC hose installed to see if it has to follow the exact same route of the AC line or does it just run straight.??? Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Yes my son doing the video-ing. I mentioned he should have got a better shot. I left it in place cause 1, extra time it would have taken ment more money to customer. Also that then made it easier to zip tie the lines in place. And yes followed the original pathway.
@@Steve4x4 My friend's front ac is still working so his rear line or orifice tube is probably blocked. His actuator seems to be working judging by what he told me.
I cant answer that with any truth. I don't know what the labor time they are quoting. If that estimate includes the Cool Solutions Kit, then Id say yes. But if it's 700 for just labor. then Id have to say no. Keep in mind I did this 2 years ago. The economy has changed a lot since then.
@@gagejohnson7391 you have to remove the rear wheel, the inner wheel well liner... evac the whole AC system. Disconnect the rear AC lines at the rear unit. Then you have access to the rear thermal expansion valve. When doing do make sure all the O-rings are replaced with correct type and size. It unbolts from the rear evaporator.
Any news on having Chevy issuing a recall on this expensive repair mine has a hole in the back area by the rear tire just where the low pressure line bends upward the wheel well does one have to sue the dealer to get a recall issued?
@@Steve4x4 we have to change that I was driving back from taking my wife to gas up the vehicle and purchase groceries while "social distancing" is hot and humid and started to rain heavily I closed the windows to protect the switches for the windows and rear side mirrors controls from water damage. once I did that foggy windows big time! and I am in the middle of traffic a semi is right on my tail I cant see through the fogged windows I was blind ! but I am a local this happened in Pilsen I know the area slowed and pulled over after the bridge before 18th Street and Ashland with ac this situation would have never happened because ac prevents foggy windows....you see where I'm going?...you know next time it gets hot and muggy in your area with heavy rains close the windows do not turn your ac....once the windows get foggy try surviving it!..do not cheat ...do it for 5 mins. do not panic!!!!
I can appreciate that senierio. However, in GM's eyes, and NTHSA, you could have easily wiped down the windows. Also what about cars that didn't come with AC, what did they do? Same thing just wiped the glass. A recall is only about an issue that is a genuine safety issue. Like a possibility of fire. Or Engine stalling at speed. Or like the latest recall on Toyota Prius, a suspension component failure that can lead to a crash that is unavoidable. I understand what your saying though. GM should have done better to protect the AC lines when they built that vehicle.
@@Steve4x4 the Chevy in question is a 2012 manufactured according to the safety standards of that year we are not talking about any classic American model vehicle from the period of the 30's to 60's Classic Models back in time is a recent model 2012 they should have no AC problems in 8 years of driving!...its an American Made Vehicle!
Steve, great video. I have a leak in the rear lines of my 2012 Traverse. I have dye leaking back by the rear tire. My question is, if I buy a rear line block off kit instead, will the ac still blow through the rear vents from the front? I am thinking I can just forgo the rear controls and only use the front dash controls, but I am wondering if this will mean ac only blows from the front vents?
I cant answer that question with any honesty. I dont know what the line block off is. If the rear AC lines are actually blocked off. There will no zero cold air from the rear vents
Hola amigo. Agradezco la información que proporcionas en tus videos. De ser posible puedas ayudarme, tengo una BUICK ENCLAVE 2011, y el evaporador de atrás avienta aire caliente, ya chequé todo y me da resultado positivo, que puede ser, me puedes orientar Gracias, recibe cordial saludo desde el bello Puerto de Tampico Tamaulipas México.
Hello, I dont speak Spanish. So I had to translate your text. If the front is cold. But the rear is not. Then I would expect the rear expansion valve is faulty, low charge of freon/refrigerant, or a restriction at the rear evaporator. Good luck!
What's the size of that line that is broken? I got the same problem but I just going to put a line splicer, and I want to make sure the size of the plicer the i need
What were the symptoms for you to complete this work? My front ac works, rear only gets as cold as outside temperature. Why doesn’t the the whole system lose all Freon if there is a leak?
The symptom was no AC at all. You might have a slow leak and havnt loss enough freon to effect the whole system. There could be a faulty expansion valve at the rear evaporator. Unless you know what your doing, Ac is something that should be done by a professional. Especially diagnostics.
@@Steve4x4 Yeah I have realized that I need professional help. At first I thought it was the blend door actuator but it just didn't seem to fit the description of what the blend door does for temperatures. When I got the vehicle the front blend door was bad for the passenger, I was hoping it would be the same for the back but I'm afraid not.
The dryer has moisture absorbing material in it. So anytime the AC is open, the dryer is trying to absorb the moisture in the air. U can imagine there is only so much it can absorb. Moisture inside an AC system will greatly reduce its efficiency and effectiveness. Which is why AC systems have a "dryer". Do u have change it? No. But you run the risk of the AC not being as cold as it could be. Esp if the system has been open to the atmosphere for any duration of time. An argument can be made that the moisture could cause accelerated wear on the compressor too.
So the hole in my line is a little bit on the bigger side.... As I can fit the tip of my Pinky in it..... And I don't have $400 the put into the line. Would it be "ok" to cut out the hole and put rubber braided hose with hose clamps?
I personally don't know. Could it handle pressure of 70psi? Thats the low side when after the high side and low side equalize. Also would that brazing handle the constant heat cycles.. from 150+ degrees and down to 30 degrees every day? If it can that might be a solution. However... you would still have to remove the line to do the brazing. Its not advisable to use a torch right agenst the firewall with sound dealing material/heat blanket.. as well as close proximity to fuel lines and power steering lines.
I dont think so.. at most the coolant can get 230degrees... under normal conditions ur looking about 215degrees. And when driving there's cooling air under the car.
@@Steve4x4 ok ya I just put mine in and zip tied it to the heater lines the whole way down. Majority of it has that rubber protector around it but on the ends it don't like by the rear tire, hopefully it be alright I guess. It's a expensive mistake if it don't. Waiting to see if shop able to do pressure test and refill now! Hopefully it was only leak. Ac sucks fix one find another leak. But thanks for this video! It definitely helped! 450 is better then over a 1000 to have some one put in the aluminum lines
I’m having this exact issue with my 2011 Traverse. Do you know the name of the hose? I would like to compare the price from the factory style part and the alternative you used.
Honestly I don't know the offical name. U will have to discuss with the dealer. Just ask for the high side and low side AC lines for the rear AC. You won't find them in the aftermarket. (At least I couldn't when I did this job)
what to do when aluminum part is stuck to aluminum? on my ford transit connect the discharge hose connection to the condenser is stuck. do you know how i can get it off?
This is a vague question. Is the system discharged? Is the system under vacuum? Are tools required to do the disconnection? When the system in evacuated (no freon) it can be put in a vacuum and thus it's hard but not impossible to disconnect the tubes. But that is assuming you are using the proper tool (if one is required example ford's sometimes use a spring lock connection that requires a special tool to disconnect it)
@@Steve4x4 That part leaked all the freon out. I'm just trying to replace the hose. It's connected by bolt and nut. The mating surface corroded together severely and won't separate.
@@almightiej try some AC oil (that's spec for your AC system), and see if that can help work them loose. I've never had any lines that would never separate. All I can say is take a step back for a min. Then try again.
It's kinda of a custom install. So it will vary on the skill, know-how, and u the customer's agreement how much of a factory install you want it to look. I think I took me about 3 hrs but it was my first times and made a video out of it.
This is what I used. Also in the video I posted an image of the card that came in the kit. www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB1ZQB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FOL9EbZC5QR1A
If you read the comments you would find it was a very useful video. Besides if you were really looking in a video for the AC connections.. then you you shouldn't be working on AC. BUT .. I will thank you for watching my video. Adding to the money I make from it.
