Not sure about the part number, but if you tell them an engine oil cooler seal kit they should be able to find it. Also take a close look at the oil cooler plastic under the O-rings. I ended up having to get a whole new cooler for this car because it turned out there was a small crack in the plastic and it kept leaking. Good luck!
Hi! Ty for sharing this! we JuST replaced our Oil Cooler on our 2011 3.6 Chrysler 200. Took it to 2 different mechanics. One which told us to sell the car because there was multiple leaks happening and the labor alone would costs more than the cars value. I want to say they said something about leaks in the Front And Rear, something or other...? The Oil Cooler, the Oil Pan and something else. Basically said the engine/trans would need to be removed to fix all these leaks. Then we took it somewhere else and they said just the Oil cooler...and it'd be $1k. So, we took a chance and did it. Got the car home and within the week, new Oil leak in the driveway (hadn't even driven it ONE time since the repair, we had just parked it in the driveway) So, we took it back up. The shop said they had to do the replacement over again bc of their error not doing something...can't remember what? We've had it back home now about 2-3 weeks and driven it maybe 3-4 times and no leaking, so thats good. BUT, yesterday I was driving down the hwy, and all of a sudden it felt like I had blown a tire. I quickly pulled over and carefully got out and looked and the tires looked OK. So, I got back into the car and took the next exit, which luckily was mine. This whole time, it sounded awful whatever was under the vehicle happening. As I was exiting, I look in my review and a huge piece of plastic comes flying out. I get home and my bumper/fender is about 3 inches detached on the drivers side....I dunno what to do to get this attached. I also think maybe when they replaced the Oil Cooler and changed the oil, they didn't put this Belly Pan back on properly...why would it just come off like this within 2 weeks of having Oil leak repairs done to it? We did call the place and they said we could bring it up and they'd have a look. And actually I Just went outside and had another look at it. It is mainly the drivers side that is detatched, but the passenger side is as well too. It just didn't drop as much as the drivers side...ugh fml right now. I'm sooo over vehicles!!
That’s very frustrating. Sounds like poor workmanship. Most likely that belly pan was not reattached properly as you guessed. Hope you get it all sorted out!
How many miles were on this car when the leak started? ....and does this car operate in extreme conditions? Is it used as an Uber, for instance? ,.....or does it operate in a very hot place like Phoenix? That sort of thing? Operating conditions would be interesting to know.
So I got the oil cooler out and replace those o rings but I'm still leaking from the same area. I tightened them down to torque spec so idk what going on. Any ideas?
My son has a 2011 200s water is squirting out by the oil filter housing just happened to see it looking for leaks we thought it was the water pump now question car keeps running hot heater won’t get hot we was thinking it was the head gasket but I noticed the leak by the oil filter housing would that make the car overheat a lot was going to change the water pump and started taking it apart and when I found the leak I found your video it’s like a straight stream of water squirting from out on the left sideOf the oil filter housing what I’m asking is I’m hoping that’s what’s making it run hot and don’t have to change the head gasket or get a new engine I can send you a video of where the water is coming out
Sounds like it’s the oil cooler. Engine oil flows through it, and coolant flows through separate passages to cool down the oil. Definitely possibly coolant is leaking from there. And yes, any coolant loss like that can cause the engine to run too hot. Remember, the heater works by hot coolant flowing through a heater core inside the dash, so if the coolant level gets too low the heat will stop working.
That’s literally the exact same problem. I’m having right now. Just started today. I did not know where my coolant was going but I saw bubbling right underneath the oil filter and now starting today it’s like gushing and bubbling because of the heat im assuming. Did you ever find out the cause?
So I’ve had a small coolant leak for about the last two months but nothing was ever dripping underneath the car. Well today I’m driving and it overheated, I pulled over I filled it up with Coolant. I drove like two more miles in traffic and sure enough . It started overheating again. I took a flashlight and there’s water gushing basically right where that cooler is. I hate this car. I don’t know what could possibly be leaking. But I guess im going to have to to take everything off and look at it.
Taking my in tomorrow , my 2nd mechanic I’m going too , first one didn’t know what he was doing. upper intake and lower intake was too hard for him , I told my mechanic this and he said groovy he’ll take a look , I’ll let y’all know what’s up with this 2012 .
@@mayken6661 car nice but overall y’all going put in a lot of work , I ended up taking the radiator out and replace the coolant tank , sold it for 5000 with only 106,000 miles on it bought the car for 3,500 with overheating problems, but if you can fix cars good for you this car not the best.
A friend had a leak on his 3.6 engine and there is a all metal replacement for it out there....for his model vehicle. But I tried to look up the all metal replacement part for my 2012 Chrysler 200 3.6-V6 and there is none. Can I assume that the problem doesn't exist on 2012 3.6-V6s ? I realize that this video is about the 2012, but when I searched for an all metal replacement for the 2012 Chrysler 200 engine oil cooler assembly I couldn't find one. It said "This part is not compatible with your vehicle."
Where common failure points exist on factory designs the aftermarket will often eventually develop a solution, ie. an all metal oil cooler. At the time I did this repair I did not see an option for that. This vehicles was a 2012, but I have seen the same problem as new as 2018.
They will if you buy a cooler, but the o-rings are also sold alone. After doing several of these repairs I now recommend buying the whole cooler though. In one instance I found the plastic under one of the o-rings was cracked and I didn’t realize it until it was back together and I was testing for leaks. Of course this cost me time and money as I had to go get a whole cooler after all. After so many heat cycles and miles the plastic of the cooler becomes compromised and would save you some grief to just replace the whole thing.
$1,300 is way too much unless there’s more involved than just the cooler. The cooler itself is roughly $300, intake manifold gaskets about $60 or less, oil filter, oil and antifreeze probably about $50-$60, and then 2.5 hrs of labor or so for this job. Even with another hour of diagnostic time charged I would expect it to be closer to $800 tops.
I did mine with two different tools it took me about an hour. Maybe an hour and a half. Just because you have to takeoff so many things. But it’s really easy. I got one at the junkyard for like $30 so it only cost me $30.
