THANK YOU !!!!! You are the only one who had the brains to mention that "pimple' on the back of pad to line up with notch in caliper face. Now I know why my pads wore so unevenly. Thanks, again
You gotta be kidding me ! You're using a Scissor Jake to hold up the car without a Jake stand . 😵 That reminds me when I was a little kid my father and I saw a man hammering under his car with just a bumper Jake holding the car up . Well I quess I don't have to tell you what happened next. ☠️
Trust me. I Wasn't really convinced after I did that. Plus, I don't have enough equipment. But in my defense, if you see closely, I had jackstands on both sides. No way I was gonna get underneath without jackstands
If you use channel locks to turn those pistons back in, it will chew up the edge of the piston, leave burrs that will cut that rubber seal. The block tool with different styles on it works fine with a ratchet and is pretty cheap compared to having to go back in to replace that seal if it starts leaking.
Hi, it is a cube shaped socket. Each facet has a square hole in it for a ratchet to snap into.... 3/8 drive i think...I can't remember. Each facet has different shaped pins or tangs on the corners of the cube frame. It covers the most common patterns that you will find with different manufacturers rear caliper pistons. If the piston is stuck, using one of these Canberra a little janky to hold while you are bearing down with all your might. If you're not careful you can slip and damage the hose. There is a special tool (yes, Harbor Freight sells one) that clamps on to the caliper so you don't slip and a turn screw that twists the piston back in. It comes with an assortment of discs with those pins or tangs to mate up with whatever pattern is on the pistons. No pics, I'm in bed. Good luck, you won't have any trouble finding them.
