Well Im very happy you went ahead and did this video … I would have tried the same procedure and wasted a lot of time for nothing … looks like the only way to go is to do what you did … lot less stress and time spent … Thanks
The 5 cylinder Sprinter I have is 2006. Two pieces drive shaft with one median bearing. I was able to kick the bearing with a starter punch and hammer to remove the old bearing, etc. Thanks for the fact that MB is rebuilding these shafts-don't know about my 118" WB model as it is rare. There is a drive shaft custom builder in the Chicago area I will go to as he uses US made joints so I may rebuild mine after buying the custom made shaft.
Check if ur driveshaft has a part number, then check google. You might get lucky and be able to purchase the part from MB. I’ve read some people have vibration issues with non oem driveshafts.
@@antonio0072007 I imagine those with custom built shafts and US mfg joints have a phasing issue and this is the source of vibration. One 5 cylinder 118" WB van owner I have talked with has issues with alignment and is on his third shaft. Motor alignment, median bearing position and the angles from diff to trans all have to be correct. Dynamic balancing is essential and these "repair houses" with older machines just miss the mark. I have a good original shaft at 190K miles. Lucky
I'm glad we found this video.could you tell me how you were able to remove the splined 4 hole flange from the shaft. We tried heating it and pressing it out with no luck. Thanks
Hi, thanks for being the first person to comment on my videos. Step number 1 to remove the splined flanged is to remove the circlip, should go without saying but just in case. After i removed the circlip i used a bearing puller and positioned the claws of the puller behind the flange “ears”. I used a high torque electric impact for this job and i do recall my impact had to work hard to get it off, i had to use a lot of lubricant between the puller center rod and the driveshaft spline to reduce the friction, i even had to swap batteries on my impact but eventually it came off.
Update… I think the bad u joint was causing my differential seal to leak because since replacing the driveshaft it appears my differential input shaft seal has stopped leaking.
Attempting this right now. Thank you for posting the video. Question... did your "good" u-joints move completely free or did they have a preferred straight orientation? Mine can be articulated in all directions, but seem to almost feel like they slip into a notch when straight. I have never had a u-joint feel like this, but they all do it so I didn't know if it was something intentional. Sorry for the weak description. Just curious if you noticed anything similar. Thanks!
@@antonio0072007 Thanks for the video! Do you remember if the u-joints on the new drive shaft articulated smoothly or did they feel like Casey P described them? Mine feel the same way not articuating smoothly.
No worries, i shopped around online for the driveshaft but found that all the prices were roughly the same so i ordered from my local mercedes dealer which facilitated the core return
Its a plumbing connector i picked up at Ace Hardware, then i used a pipe cap on the end of it. when i get home i’ll take take some measurements and post them here
Its a 2 inch threaded to hose barb adapter. I used the barb side to press the bearings, the barb side has a 1 and 7/8 inch inner diameter and a 2 inch outer diameter. Like this one www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/pipe-fittings/iron-fittings/4026407
