Great video. These solenoids are a weak link in the 5.0 motors. One thing to be considered is before you start the job blow off all around the top of the motor. Don’t wait till the coil packs are removed to vac around. Too risky, debris might still get knocked inside.
I have a 2013 Ford f150 4x4 with a 5.0. I didn't have any problem with my solenoids at all until after I replaced the valve cover and the valve cover gaskets when I attached everything back together. Not even 5 minutes driving down the road. My vehicle decided to crank up very slowly then threw off codes for all four. Valuable VVT solenoids was all bad which I thought it was kind of weird so I had to order four of them to replace all of them. And I noticed that my symptoms were slow. Acceleration slow crankage throwing off like five codes. It was even throwing off the camshaft codes and I did notice when I took the old valve cover off tons of dirt got into the oil from and I took a air compressor and got all the dirt off the top and everything. I guess there was just dirt underneath it and it was never removed at all until it hit 170,000 Miles so I had to clean out with seafoam and had to drain the oil and I also had to clean out the crank case to get all that dirt out of there as well. Whatever was left that didn't go into the oil pan. So my recommendation is to everyone. I would change out your solenoids at the same time you replace or switch out your valve cover or valve cover gaskets. I don't know if it's just me but are the original VVT solenoid sensor connector supposed to be loose on those things? Cuz I noticed on the brand new ones they don't move. I thought that maybe the original ones were broke if they moved or maybe they were adjustable due to the valve cover to make it easier to push down. I was assuming those were the two possibilities on why the sensor connectors were loose on the solenoids
I hope my 2015 doesn't look that crusty inside when I take my covers off. I'm not sure the previous owner did 5k mile oil changes, or used full synthetic everytime. The cams are hollow and have filters inside the end. If those are dirty or clogged, the phasers won't be getting full oil pressure anyway, so that makes this upgrade useless if that's the case. Thanks for the shortcut video though. 👍
Gaskets are like 100 bucks or more a set. I wouldnnt replace them unless you have to. The last time i pulled the valve cover to replace a gasket the new one didnt fit well and assumed the cover was warped and replaced that.... $230 from dealer...when i replaced it there are 2 points that need the black gasket maker goop, so that may be a consideration if you do pop the valve cover.
I've been chasing an issue where, once the truck has been driven for a while, when at idle it will suddenly "stumble" and sometimes die. I've been told that some sensor, etc is throwing a low-oil pressure code (perhaps incorrectly) and tells the engine to stop. If I hold my foot on the brake and keep the idle about 1K or so, it won't happen. Another thread also mentioned issues with the VCT solenoids, so not sure what's up.
My 2019 Mustang GT does this as well- it has been a known issue that the solenoids will 'go rogue' at idle and cause a stumble or even stall. These VCT's should fix the issue. -Justin
I have this same issue in my 2015 f150. Thru alot of forum reading, it is the vct solenoids. Ordered my Ford performance ones the day I watched this video. As soon as they show up I'll be doing this.
I also had this issue with my 2013 5.0L F-150. After looking online , I stumbled upon numerous videos related to the “oil pressure sending unit” This small little controller that lives deep on the exterior of the engine block is a $30-40 unassuming part. After replacing the part, I’ve never had the issue again. 👍 Hope that helps
I put new vvt gaskets and i cant get the valve cover to sit down far enough in the front to tighten the bolts. Ive already torn 2 dorman replacements. What could i be doing wrong?
Are they available for 2011 5.0s? I'm getting a P0023 code. Also, can you point me to the electrical test procedure? I know to test input voltage from the harness and ohms in the vcts but I think there's another test. -thanks!
Technically they can be used, but Coyotes in 11 and the first half of 12 used a different smaller electrical connector. You'd have to get a new engine wiring harness or spice in the new connectors using the Motorcraft WPT pigtail collection. Hence why they're being cautious with the '2013' start date.
@@chrissignal8857 2011 and the first half of 2012 use a smaller electrical connector on the wiring harness. You can use these if you swap harnesses to a later one or buy the correct Motorcraft WPT pigtail kit, cut off your old connectors, and splice them in.
