2013 Chevy equinox timing chain, water pump and crank seal replacement! MOTOR out of the car 

Glad it’s helping! 😀😀

You’re welcome!

I know, right. Over 1000 dollars just for the water pump like this thing is a BMW. Ugh, never buying a Chevy again.

I didn’t get the part about compression stroke? Procedure I saw says TDC on exhaust stroke..

You do install both balance shaft chain and cam chain with No. I cylinder on the exhaust stroke.

Thanks a lot for the information!! Its a big job! Have a great rest of your week!!

Thanks you and have a great week!

Dang that’s some hard work!! Well done!

Thanks!! Have a great weekend!

Thanks for the tip!! it will help all that read it and me as well

Thank you for the kind words!

Thank you! Have a great weekend!

I don’t remember I have to look back at the vid.

Glad it helped!!

It also takes less time to do it inside the vehicle. Half the time as opposed to doing it per the service manual way and pulling the engine out of the vehicle. All you need in terms of tools is 1/4 inch drive 10mm and 13mm; 3/8 drive 13mm and 1/2 drive 22 for the removal of the wheel, 21mm for removal of the crank pulley bolt, 18mm for removal of the cam gears, 32 or 1 1/4 inch socket to remove timing chain tensioner and 15mm impact universal joint and 6 inch extension to remove the catalytic converter and lastly, a 13mm wrench, 10mm wrench and 22mm wrench.

Thanks a lot for the info Justin!! I was replacing the motor so I did the work outside the vehicle. Thanks again and have a great new week!!!

This timing chain set didn't come with the water pump chain. The engine had low miles so we didn't bother changing it. So far so good. No insult taken!! have a great weekend!

I would say that you need to align everything again and install per the manufactures instructions on what colored link goes where. This was a Cloyes timing setup

oh my gosh i am so sorry for missing this comment! something changed and i am not getting notified of comments. i will do a little research and get back to you asap!

@@whatsnextgarage thanks for reading my comment bro ill wait for the response thanks alot 🙏

Ok yikes you’ve done a ton of work so far. There are many different part numbers for your chain from different manufacturers. If you bought one for your year and model car, then I can only assume that you have the right one. Next with the tensioner loose you have to put the chain on the cam sprocket first, making sure the timing marks are all lined up properly, then angle the sprocket such that the bottom of the bore goes on the shaft first then you can kind of lever the sprocket onto the shaft. If you had your cams approximately 10 and 2 and the timing marks on the sprocket lined up with the colored links and the crank sprocket is lined up with the timing mark and the colored link then your timing will be good. Finally your p0016 code is a generic code that deals with bank 1 and tells you that the cam and crank aren’t seeing each other at the proper time. (I’m sure you read that only also). Other then verifying the timing marks and chain links are all lined up properly and the sensors you’ve replaced are good it sounds like you may need to take it in. Sorry I can’t help much more then that.

I would drain the oil just in case. I don’t think it has to be but better safe then a mess on the floor👍

Yea it can be done in the vehicle but it’s pretty tight. There are some good videos showing removal in the car.

@@whatsnextgarage What do the lower case bolts need to be tightened to? The last time I did this repair, I broke a bolt head off the lower cover. Luckily, I could back it out of the engine

One bit = 10º.😀

I put it back on but it I didn't add it to the video. good catch!!

Yikes if it’s making noise now, I’d stop running it for sure.

70 to 90k miles before the rattle.

Never drive with an active engine noise

I did and everything stayed in time. Did you figure out why it jumped a tooth?

Not yet, I have taking the chain off and realigned the timing marks 5 times and its off each time I turn by hand. I have know idea why?

@@AQUASCAN1 the timing marks on the chain will not line back up with the marks on the respective sprockets unless you turn it more then just a few times. Verify that the timing marks on the crank sprocket and cam sprockets are in the right place after a few rotations don’t worry about the marks on the chain. If you’ve done all that already then perhaps the chain tensioner isn’t released and the chain is jumping a tooth from that.

Finally after hand turning the engine 40 times the marks line up again

@@AQUASCAN1 well then you know for sure you got it right. Is the engine in the car or on a stand? With the bigger cam sprockets and the small crank sprocket that sounds about right before you get the links to line up again. Great work glad it’s all good!!!

I’m pretty sure it is a locating bushing. Check all the holes on the engine for one that is bigger or shows signs of that bushing being in there

I went back and looked at my raw footage The cover has to pins so I keep looking. Maybe it’s part of the right timing chain bolt.

I appreciate the response. I'm not sure if it'll let me send attachments. Perhaps I can finagle some way to drop you a link or something. I don't have notifications on, so I just saw this. At any rate, you've earned a sub. I found a lengthy video that gave me a little more insight on the entire process, but your torque specs really brought everything full circle. One more question if it isn't too much trouble. I did end up putting it back together. I'm sure you know the story. The timing chain definitely was due for an overhaul. The top of the top guide was cut completely off, and the black plastic guide was in pieces. Once I replaced everything it started up and ran fine. However, once it got up to temperature, it started jumping at extended stops again and dying. It starts right back up, and as long as you give it gas or are driving, it's fine. Any idea what could be the problem?

@@pamgoulette3145 that’s a tough one. Does the engine throw a code? Maybe something in the throttle position sensor, but that’s a guess. I try to respond and help as much as I can so I really appreciate your feedback and I’m glad my video helped a little! Have a great week and I hope you can get the dying issue figured out!

Just make sure your cam sprockets or on the cam shafts correctly, intake and exhaust and make sure the keys are engaged. Then set the arrows in the orientation I show at :31. You can also verify that it’s on a compression stroke by verifying none of the valves are compressed

Plus that has to be a miserable job in the car🤦

@@whatsnextgarage All valves on both cams on intake and exhaust? What I did was dumb. I had to adjust the cam and before I noticed it, I had loosen the sprockets and when I started to adjust, The sprockets came off and I was totally lost. ha Easy if I never loosen them first but I messed up. Thanks

@@dano9973 that has to be a horrible job in the vehicle!! You’ll have plenty of knowledge after this job!

@whats next garage When you say,..."You can also verify that it’s on a compression stroke by verifying none of the valves are compressed" that includes both cams, right? Is it possible to be a whole rotation off on both cams and still look like valves aren't depressed. Can one have the dowels/keys at the 10 and two and it's upside down. Sorry to bother you again . Thanks again

You should not have any noise. If it’s coming from the phaser then perhaps it is faulty.

@@whatsnextgarage ok thanks alot I didn't think so, this my first time dealing with one these engine 👍 also just sub

@@bobbywomac313 you’re welcome and thank you as well!

The customer bought all the parts for me to install.

@@whatsnextgarage well thanks anyway I am driving mine everyday I can totally here a difference when I first change oil to 3k I have 219542k miles on the equinox I paid 800 for it 10k miles ago just hope I can figure out what where and how much before it's to late

Cloyes 9-4201SA

Dang! I bet you have every bolt and bracket memorized!! I wouldn’t have the patience or desire to do it in the vehicle!! I’m just a shade tree guy and am happy doing just the one I did. Hats off to ya and have a great week!!👍

The wire tie was installed so that the chain didn’t come off of the balancing shaft sprockets when I pulled the water pump. I would imagine that the auto zone engine is just a short block that you then would have to swap your accessories onto. As far as one vs the other it’s hard to say, but as you have more work done the auto zone option becomes more cost effective. Maybe slowly turn the engine over with a wrench attached to the crank bolt, with the battery disconnected, slowly rotate and see if the engine turns over smoothly. If it turns over smoothly then perhaps the damage is minimal, but if the motor rotates and stops then there is an issue. I am posting the engine removal video tonight so perhaps you can see what’s all involved with removing it from the car.

Lisle makes a tool specifically for holding the timing chain so the water pump can be removed. #13800

Thank you for the information!!

The timing chain guides?

@@whatsnextgarage yes..well the balance shaft guide the one on the right has just a smidge of play....its the set behind the timing set

@@daniastopjik3287 I’m looking at it now and see what your saying is it moving when the bolts are tight

Or is the chain a smidge loose?

@@whatsnextgarage no the guide itsself....the bolts are tight...idk ...its very little play...i just think after time it will get looser ....thinking i can throw a washer on it?

I was putting in a salvage engine so I did it while the engine was out. Would be a tough job in the car though.

@georgesanford3719 🤣👍

I agree!! I did one oil pan where I put a pretty tall bead on the flange and worried about the squeeze out on the inside. That vehicle is still rolling after two years so it worked out. Lately though I have been much more sparing with the silicone. 😄👍

I was releasing the chain tensioner.

@georgesanford3719 ouch come on that one hurts🫣.