Awesome job man. Keep making diy mechanics vids like this and you'll blow up. Very informative without going too crazy with useless info. Giving the bolt/screw/nut sizes is great, and always giving explanations for each change of plan for removal and showing the change rather than just stating what you did is excellent. Keep it up and definitely ready for more from you. With time your videos will only get better and better.
Man. Your engine looks exactly like my 2013 Ford Escape 2.5L and I need to replace my alternator tomorrow. This is literally that ground breaking video that makes me confident I can do it. So many are in a shop and not even the right engine (the 2.0 and 1.6 eco boost actually have the alternator set differently {from what I have seen} so it was very disarming). For real. Thanks for the video and I'll even let you know how it goes and what's different. 🤙🤟✌️
@@sidbrant Well. It definitely worked. I went a fairly different route. Lucky my AC compressor is broken. So, to anyone reading what's to be explained. Do NOT do this unless you really have to. I really didn't like the idea of taking out my thermostat. Nor lifting my engine. Nor draining all my coolant. I went my own way. After taking off the wheel well cover and got to moving my coolant reservoir out of the way. I realized I still wouldn't have room. I thought there would be enough room without removing the AC compressor but no such luck. With that, I removed the AC line directly in front the coolant housing space completely. Took it all the way out, since it links directly to the AC compressor down below. That left the other line and the actual compressor. I took out the stud that helps line up the compressor and the bracket that is directly above it. That bracket houses the bolts for the wiring harness to the AC compressor and Alternator. That allowed me direct access to the positive link, two bottom bolts, and full maneuverability out the wheel well. That also made the install super easy. As I said. I did this very different but it honestly would only take me about two hours if I had to do it this way again. DO NOT let your AC compressor leak out. It's actually illegal if your caught. Mine doesn't hold anything due to a small accident. I just haven't had a chance to fix that. Again, thanks for the video. I used every bolt size wrench you said and didn't find any problem with how you did it.
Great video👍. I have the same car with the same problems, this video is gold. Thanks for explaining every step in the process with the socket sizes. I think I can do this.🙏
Attention if you’re doing this anybody you do not need to take your inner fender well out for any reason Take out all the radiator hoses the idler tensioner and pull the alternator straight up through the top you don’t even need to take the reservoir tank out way easier, you don’t need to take any of the underneath the part as well just drain the radiator with the petcock no need to take the plastic off and the alternator wires can be reached from the top once you take all the radiator hoses out of your way piece a cake cakes about an hour to get it out not remove any extra pieces
You can take the passenger side motor mount and raise the engine with the jack on the oil pan about 6-8” and you can slide out the alternator. Just did it and took me and hour with removal and install total time
Question - what clued you in to the alternator being the issue? Mine is giving a "Check charging system" error off and on and it's not the battery. I just replaced that. There is no lack of power or electrical issues other than the error that occurs.
The battery light came on along with the "check charging system" message. The headlights and dash lights were getting dim and then brightening back up and the ac blower motor would slow down and speed up also. So I checked the voltage at the battery with a multimeter while the car was running and the voltage was lower than 13.5V which lead me to a faulty alternator.
@@sidbrant That would explain the blower motor speeding up and slowing down. No other symptoms on mine. Do you have heated seats in yours? There are like 3 different models of alternator it can be. I have heated front seats but no 110V outlet. I THINK I need the 175amp one, but it's hard to say.
I did it just to ensure any capacitors had a way to drain off any stored voltage. I later found out that it does not actually reset the learned values in the PCM, it has to be done with a scan tool that is capable. But the car ran fine afterwards either way.
I was running my car for a little then turned off the gas but not the battery and then I tried to start my car but it didn’t work. Then we tried to start it again and it made a “tick tick tick tick tick” sound then when we tried to jump the car it didn’t even turn on or make a noise. Is it the alternator that broke or what could it be if we tried to jump it for a while?
I’m having my charging system service light comes on and off. It started right after I took it to Ford for an transmission oil change. But I know it’s not the battery, they told me it is leaking oil so I have an appointment to run a diagnostic test on it. Hopefully it’s nothing beside the battery or alternator, because I don’t want to drive my truck on a daily basis.
There's two alternator with 200 amp In rock auto but the only difference is the price I have the same car as the one in video can you let me know which one did you get or send me the link. Thx
