That car is already gone. I can show more specifics on my next swap vid! Do you mean the cam driver tone wheels? Or the tone wheel on the back of the crankshaft?
Hi Steven. I appreciate your videos. I’m getting ready to do a swap 2015 Fb25 into2013 Forester. I was wondering if I were able to fabricate a bracket to mount the extra pulley if I could use the new cover and not take all that apart. Do you think it can work?
First of all, thank you for that feedback! I post these videos to help folks succeed and save their dollars. I will keep posting these swaps because every situation is different and I end up emphasizing different items more clearly each time. Have you watched all of them? I have three or so now… I will link to a bracket that someone is making in order to utilize the new cover; however, I say you will still need to address the tone wheels on the intake cam phasers. You will have cam and crank correlation codes if you do not change to the original forester tone wheels. I neglected this on my very first swap. I ended up removing that timing cover and changing the tone wheels with the engine in the car, which is not ideal; It is much easier while on the engine stand. If I can help in any way, feel free to reach out. stevenoswald@gmail.com www.ebay.com/itm/155850200326?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SsA6PXumS4m&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ccjrpNmcTVq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thanks. The more of you videos I watch I think I’ll try to do exactly what you suggested cause you have done several of these. I’ll learn from your mistakes. I was wondering why not just swap the ends of the wires that go to the coils and use the new ones and don’t remove the covers. There is not a lick of oil on this new engine so why mess with it. I think you figuring out this swap is great cause there is a big need to be able to do it.
@@jaredchase1244 I have tried depinning the connectors for the coils to do that exact thing but the pins are not the correct size. You could cut and splice I guess, but I prefer not to cut if there is another way. If you don’t want to mess with the rocker covers, I recommend using the new engine’s rubber boots on the foresters original coils, they just pull right off. Then you will need to make a shim to hold the coil pack away from the rocker cover, a nut of the correct size can work for that, I have done this several times with extremely low mileage engines that I haven’t wanted to disturb.
I swapped a 2007 Forester motor into a 2009 motor and transmission. Ran ok to start, now the traction control, engine light and tire sensor are on. Swapped the intake and crossover coolant. Wiring harness as well. Any advice? No engine codes are found when plugged into diagnostic
If the engine light is on, there should be a diagnostic trouble code. I’ve never swapped a complete trans, were the wiring connections the same? The 2009 was the new body style, so I imagine there could be enough differences to affect the workability of the swap. Can you tell me more?
I'm looking at having the same thing done to my '13 Forester. So there's nothing else that has to be done to put an '18 engine set for a CVT trans onto my traditional trans?
All of the engines I get are 2015+ Legacy or Outback except for this one, which was an ‘18 Forester engine. That said, most all of the later model Legacy, Outback, and Forester have the CVT with a few manual trans exceptions. They all will work with the steps outlined in my various videos. Some videos I do a better job of explaining each item. If you watch the repair video for Navnit, the latest one, I believe I outline what needs to be done relatively early on in the video. Let me know if I can help with more information. stevenoswald@gmail.com if you have more specific questions that you need clarified.
I'm considering swapping a 2014 FB25 for a 2018 FB25 because I'm burning quarts of oil at an alarming rate and I heard they got that problem fixed in the last years of the SJ, do you know how true that is? Also there's a much better selection of CVT motors online but my car is a manual, I'm assuming that doesn't make a difference but I read on a forum that the wiring harness is different so I'm curious if you had any idea about that. One last thing, do you do a borescope or compression test on a used motor?
Great questions, first off. The later engines don’t have the same oil usage problems, that is correct. As a last ditch effort, you might dump some sea foam in with the engine oil to potentially de-gum the oil rings on the pistons. I’ve seen this make drastic improvements in terms of oil usage. I think it’s an ounce per quart of oil or so? The directions are on the can. You are correct that the trans type won’t make a difference in your engine selection. You will be using your old engine harness with your “new” engine so electronically, you should be fine. Lastly, take a Quick look at if you have the time at two of my previous videos that describe the swap process from series 1 to series 2 FB’s. This one was just a quick repair overviews, but my other vids are more extensive. Let me know if this helps! I’m willing to answer any questions you have! As for testing of the engine. I use a supplier that I’ve come to trust. They show video footage of the engine running before it is removed from the donor car. They advertise it as “runs good” in the listing. Let me know if you need help sourcing something.
I have seen your other videos and they are very helpful, I don't know what to do about sourcing an engine, I've looked on LKQ and eBay and both seem expensive compared to the videos I've seen of mechanics doing this at home, I saw that you posted your supplier in one of your video descriptions and I checked them out, I'm in Atlanta GA and not sure it makes sense to ship that far, I could definitely use suggestions on sourcing a motor, thanks@@stvnswld
Here would be one option. www.ebay.com/itm/305432670798?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WQua7Az6Roi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ccjrpNmcTVq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
