2014 Dodge Grand Caravan 62TE Transmission Shift Solenoid (Minute Maintenance) 

😊

Kainslaton366, your recommendations are as valuable as 12 of these very important Videos! Thank You SO Much !!!

hi sir, is there a gasket for this pan? From all videos ive seen so far, its just gasket maker for the seal.

Update? Did it work out for ya!? Peace

Thanks for watching Partner! Hope your Vehicle is Shifting like a Dream after this!

Hey thanks for watching! Im so sorry to hear you're having this issue. I don't like to 2nd guess a mechanic especially one who presumably had eyes on your vehicle. But I don't believe your described issue can be fixed by a Solenoid. A grinding noise/sensation is not a symptom typical to a faulty Solenoid. The noise plus the fact your fluid was "toasted" (presuming burnt) it's most likely the lack of properly maintained transmission fluid has caused damage to your clutch plate!! If the fluid was burnt that means it had zero ability to dissipate heat (its main job) and lubricate for the clutch plate and gears. You most likely have a clutch plate if not torque converter issue. If I'm you, I would save up some tips. Spend the 1 to 2hr cost (assuming they'll charge most shops will diagnose most things for free in hopes you will in turn pay for the repair) and have a transmission shop diagnose it. That way you have 100% all the information you need to properly determine what your next option is. As opposed to assuming it's roached and ditching the van, spending time/$$ swapping a Solenoid to have it not fix the issue or have the van breakdown w/ clients. I hope this was some what helpful, happy wrenching!

Thanks@@minutemaintenance7385, your input is much appreciated!

hey brother, i had the exact same issue with my 2015 caravan r/t. I just went through this process yesterday (drop transmission pan, replaced transmission oil, filter and gasket, and removed valve body pan (reseal with gasket maker) and replaced the solenoid). This evening we drove around 100KM and the braking to stop is so smooth, like brand new!

@@stevensly what solendiod you replaced.

Hey thanks for watching! Thankfully none of that happened! I fixed a few other issues on the van over the next year she had it (she unfortunately got into an accident and it totaled out but thankfully she and Hers were unharmed and not at fault so upgraded). Never had any leaks, cover stayed in place, never had any complaints! New gaskets are always a good idea but aren't always needed case in point my 52' Chevy barn find..Sat since 83' , towed it home...simple tune up, fluid flush, carb rebuild and wiring fixes due to mice and ran great never leaked and had original gaskets (at least from 83' as I never changed em). Good rule of thumb to swap gaskets but as this is a "how to get back on road for minimal cost/tools for the average soccer mom" channel...I operate from the motto of "if it stays, it plays". Plus..with routine maintenance and operating temperatures gaskets don't degrade as readily as ppl think in my experience! Thanks for watching! And Happy Wrenching!

Update 2: After disconnecting the battery again, I finally got the van to throw code P083B

@@ourhousedeals5152 I'm so sorry you're dealing with this. Transmission issues are the worst! What you described sounds like the Vehicle is refusing to shift which thr code confirms. Reasoning can be anything from low/dirty fluid, dirty filter, bad TCM, bad shift sensor, damaged or dirty Valve Body. Honestly the best option is take it to a shop for proper diagnosis. If you're adamant about trying to resolve the issue at home..if it's my van I'd stay by doing a Transmission fluid and filter swap! That may offer some relief and hopefully resolve the issues long term. If it is a bad TCM or Shift Solenoid that would be best diagnosed by a shop!

⁠@@ourhousedeals5152Did you get your van fixed?

Hey thanks for watching!! Sorry for delay in response..I did Not drain the fluid first, However You absolutely should! Some ppl have been able to change this Solenoid w/o draining the pan..others have not been able to. Better safe then sorry. I always recommend b4 changing this Solenoid to do a fluid and filter swap first, the majority of "codes" or sensor malfunctions I've seen in my lifetime are due to poor/thin/dirty/burnt fluid or a bad filter!! BUT as you're finding yourself stuck in 1st gear or limp mode..if it's my vehicle I'd plan on draining the fluid, and changing the filter and Solenoid all in one!! Happy Wrenching!!

Hey thanks for watching...so based on the Information you gave, and assuming you used a good mechanic who used a new or reliably refurbished valve body...if it's throwing speed sensor and gear ratio codes it is possibly going to be related to the "Compounder". The 62TE transmission is notorious for having these internal gear shafts fail due to bad rings on the shaft. This is a more involved but rebuildable item, but I'd take the van to a Certified transmission shop for appropriate diagnosis. Good luck!

Thanks for the info on the Bolts Partner!! I'm not good at Metric/Standard equivalencies. As far as the shifting issue..if only occurring "underload" and "uphill"..and is downshifting that to me sounds like normal Transmission work trying to compensate for a heavy load...is it accompanied by any burning smell, chugging, slipping...something that indicates the Transmisison is working hard?

@@minutemaintenance7385 No burning smell or other scary symptoms. Perhaps it's time to flush and replace the fluid & filter. Thanks for your reply. Cheers

Oh Man I'm So Sorry to Hear About Your Transmission Problems. Are There any Lights or Codes Being Shown?!?

@@minutemaintenance7385 code says low line pressure, has fluid, new trans filter ect

Oh Geez that's a tough one. That Code can have several causes. Since you've installed a new filter and new clean fluid to the proper level...we can rule out dirty fluid/filter being the cause. But that could still leave a bad PCM, Clogged or Dirty Valve Body, Bad Sensor...Honestly If I'm You I'd take it to a Shop to get properly diagnosed! Something like that is hard to pin point without being hands on! I'm sorry I didn't have more info for ya..if it is as simple as a bad sensor...or even dirty fluid still being in the valve body..the long you wait to get it diagnosed and fixed..the more permanent and costly the damage will be!

Sorry for late response...if I'm understanding you correctly you wish to check the transmission fluid "Cold"...not the best idea but better than nothing. If checking "cold" meaning, not at operating temperatures, the fluid will be around the bottom/tip curve of the dipstick. The measurements for a "Cold" transmission fluid check are roughly 5 to 15mm/.2 to .6 inches. Hopefully that helps.

My 2015 is doing the same as yours, did you replace the solenoid and if so did it fix the problem?

@joshdavis6753 I haven't had it occur again for me to go out and bite the bullet on this repair. I'm a little hesitant reading comments about transmission fluid leaks while accessing the part and other comments suggesting I replace a seal while I'm down there. Let me know if you end up doing this. I'd like to trade the damn thing in, but times are tough

I'm tracking! Sometimes you gotta make adjustments on the fly...if its between saving the insulation cover or swapping the solenoid so the van shifts...I'm cutting that cover out haha good luck!

Hey thanks for watching, I'm so sorry you're having this issue. By no power I'm assuming you mean zero electricity/power to the vehicle? The solenoid as you mentioned wouldn't be responsible for that you would still be able to start the car, operate radio etc..if you're having zero electrical power the only possibility is a bad connection. Make sure the battery cables are clean of debris, build up, greenish/yellow battery acid etc using a wire brush or steel wool then make sure they're fully tightened onto the battery. If that checks out follow the battery cables to where they connect onto the vehicle to make sure they are still fully connected on both ends. To the right of the battery is the fuse box where the red/positive cable connects into the circuit system..pop that cover and make sure the cable is still fully connected then check the manual to see which fuses/relays are in charge of the power/battery/electrical system and pull those and see if there are any obvious signs of damage, broken wire inside or burning..if you're not sure if a fuse is good you can swap it with another fuse/relay or equal amperage but is used for a lesser important process..i.e. radio or power steering fuse..to see if theres any change in the system, that'll at least help you verify if the fuse is bad or not. Hope this helps, good luck and Happy Wrenching!

The honest answer is...it depends! How old is the fluid and filter? If it has never been changed...or hasn't been changed in several thousand miles (50k plus) it is possible the bad, dirty, or burnt fluid caused the sensor to trigger. I would at the very least try and check the fluid. Make sure the level is at the proper place and the fluid looks clean! If the fluid looks serviceable then my next step would he to change the sensor!

Yes you do! I learned the hard way, as soon as the valve cover pan was removed, there was a flood lol. Next time, i will do this process: remove transmission pan, replace filter and gasket, then re-attach pan & torque to spec. Then remove valve cover, replace solenoid, then re-attach cover with gasket maker. Top off transmission fluid, run through gear cycle and re-check fluid levels and for leaks.

Hey Thanks for watching and sorry for delay in answering your question, I did not get notified of your comment! 1st thing I would do is pull the dipstick and check fluid level and clarity! Is the fluid old, thin, burnt..especially look for any signs of burning via dark discoloration or smell as your issues sounds like it could hena fault within the torque converter. If fluid doesnt appear burnt and level is fine, I'd consider a fresh fluid and filter swap regardless as removing old containments/debris and adding fresh thick fluid is the number 1 way to resolve most shifting issues. The older the transmission the less pressure it can build up to allow shifting the more important fresh, thick fluid and a clean filter become! While I dont think the symptoms you describe match that of the TCC solenoid if none of the above helps get you closer to an answer..I'd take the van to a shop for diagnostic. Most shops will diagnose for free to minimum cost hoping you'll pay them to repair it and they'll make money on that end of things. That way you'll at least have a better understanding of what's wrong and what your options are. Not the best answer but hopefully it helps, good luck and Happy Wrenching!

@@minutemaintenance7385 Thanks for the reply. The fluid level is correct and is not burnt or off color. I discovered one more thing. When it won't shift from 5th into 6th I just need to put the car into neutral and shut the engine off. I restart the engine and put it back into drive and it always shifts into 6th gear and stays there. It's not the shifting into neutral that has an effect, it's the shutting the engine off and then on again. It would seem to indicate that the issue is some kind of signal to the transmission to shift that is wrong. The transmission works perfectly once it has shifted into 6th gear.

My 2012 dodge grand caravan just started not shifting from 2nd to 3rd under load on its own but if you put it in manual mode you can shifting it. Also it's not shifting into 6th gear on its own or in manual mode

Hey, Thanks for Watching the Video! If Your fluid is "Dark" I'd Consider Changing the Fluid and the Filter First and Soon!! The Darker it Gets=the More Burnt/Old it Is. Most Common Transmission Issues as Far as Slipping, Hesitation Shifting etc Can be Resolved with New CLEAN Fluid. If Its My Van, I'd Do That First, If That Doesnt Resolve the Issue Then My Thought Would be a Bad Shift Solenoid.

Hey! Thanks for Watching and the Subscription! I am so sorry I didnt respond sooner, RU-vid has NOT been sending comment notifications lately..as far as the fluid leak yes there will be a small amount, up to 1/2 a quart in most cases. I apologize for not addressing that in this video. You should not have to drain beforehand, just be sure to refill! There shouldn't be a "dipstick" but actually a fill tube area...I'll powt a link to a video I did on this same transmission ref fluid drain, fill and a diy dipstick as these are "sealed" transmissions and not able to easily fill/check fluid. My pan did NOT have a pan, and I found mixed results on whether there should have been one or not. My local Dodge Dealership did not even have a OEM seal to sell me. If your vehicle has one I'd replace it with an OEM if you can find one or just a good bead of RTV silicone!! Hope this helps!! Good luck!!

Link to transmission fluid and filter replacement and diy dipstick! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fuM0d4SfTlY.html

Hey Thanks for Watching the Video! It took Me About 2 hrs...But I Was Also filming. If I Had to Do the Project Again I'd Estimate 40min to 1 hr!

@@minutemaintenance7385 I need to change out entire solenoid pack assembly. How much longer or long would that be you think?

For the Whole Solenoid Pack I'd estimate another 45 min. There are some connections on the lower end that can be tricky to deal with! Take your time, make sure you're in a warm and comfortable garage..not a project you'll wanna do outside in the cold, makes ya more likely to rush and make a mistake. Good luck!

Hey thanks for watching! You are correct I did not mention the Transmission Fluid level check in this video as I did a 2nd video for how to perform a fluid drain and filter swap...that's mentioned at the end...immediately after I filmed this one. I should have labeled this 1 of 2 as opposed to thinking ppl would naturally be directed to the 2nd portion. Good catch! As far as the gasket you are right a bead of RTV would not have been a bad idea, although the van didn't have any leaks in the year the owner had it after the fix b4 trading it in for a newer model. Based on the research, it was 70/30 whether a gasket was used or needed. The local Dodge Dealership said they never replace it and when final taking the pan off I didn't see any signs of a gasket so I ran with it! Thanks for watching and appreciate the constructive criticism!

Hey thanks for watching! Sorry for delay in response I did not receive notification of this question! Based on the symptoms and codes I'm lead to believe it may be an issue w/ the Solenoid Pack itself. In this video I replace the TCC/Shift Solenoid but it is Bolted directly to rhe Solenoid Pack so I Show how to get to the area you need to be, and talk about which bolts are next to remove the Solenoid Pack, although I don't perform that specific task as it wasn't required for this vehicles issue. Even though fluid level was full and not burnt if its old/thin OR the filter is dirty/clogged the Transmission will lose ability to develop the hydraulic pressure required to perform appropriate shifts/gear changes. So if it's been..40..50k+ miles since the last transmission filter and fluid swap I'd consider that as first resort, 1 its the most common cause for transmission codes snd hesitations (micro particles shorting out sensors and inability to develop pressure or cool transmission) and its cheaper then buying a whole new Solenoid Pack so if it may fix the issue I'd consider that first. Hope that helps. And Happy Wrenching!

Hey Thanks for watching! I always recommend ppl do a transmission fluid and filter change first before changing solenoids or the pack...reason being in my experience the majority of codes thrown or shifting issues occurring..95% or higher are because the fluid is old/thin/dirty or rhe filter is dirty and or clogged! But to answer your specific question you would need to replace the Solenoid pack as opposed to the TCC Solenoid I demonstrate in this specific video. Good luck, and Happy Wrenching!

Interesting! No I did not drain the Transmission for the Solenoid swap nor did I have any fluid spill out. That makes me concerned if somehow you damaged a Transmission Fluid line during your swap? Loosened up the Transmission pan by accident Or possibly the Main Valve Body (the part the Solenoid is actually bolted onto) is loose. If you're able to pinpoint where the fluid started thatd be useful. Being everything is expensive electronic components there should be very little fluid anywhere within that cover.

@@minutemaintenance7385 thanks for the response. Definitely was a surprise. I’ll be pulling it apart again to further investigate. Hopefully it’s an easy fix 🤞

same thing happened to me on 2016 caravan, any info as to why fliud came out? About a half a qt

@@minutemaintenance7385 The most likely reason you had no fluid loss is because the transmission is low on fluid. The cooler lines appear to have been leaking for a long time.

Thanks for watching! This solenoid I replaced in this video may fix the issue. BUT I always tell everyone. Change your Transmisison fluid and filter FIRST! 99.99999% of the time, Low, Dirty/old fluid is the culprit! The solenoids will throw a code if it senses poor pressure in the valves..which is almost Always caused by not properly maintaining the transmission. Only AFTER driving for a long time with dirty fluid and filter will the solenoid finally lock up or due to a short caused by build up of ceramic/metal material in the fluid from natural transmission use due to..not changing the fluid! Hope this helps, Happy Wrenching!

Thanks for the Question. I had no Codes, the diagnosis was soley based on Symptoms. The Shift Solenoid is notorious for not throwing codes but having very specific symptoms/struggles as I outline in the video!! The swap did resolve my customers issue!

@@minutemaintenance7385 okay good to know. Running into the same issue. Thanks!! And great video.

Hey thanks for watching! My instincts say no, the main symptom would he stalling. Basically when the shift solenoid fails, it causes the torque converter to lock in place causing the vehicle to stall. If the van just isnt going into the right gear or has low power in a specific gear I'd check my fluid first. Make sure it's full AND clean. Not old and burnt. If that checks out I'd unfortunately recommend going for a formla diagnosis at a shop, its fairly inexpensive, lots of places do it for free expecting you to have them perform the work afterward. But at least youd know. If fluid looks suspect, swap the filter and fluid. Good luck!

Oh No, I'm so sorry to Hear That! It's Possible that Strain to the Electrical System Caused the Code to Erroneously display or the Sensor to Not have enough electricity to properly work thus causing the issue. The 62TE Transmission has an electrically activated Clutch so any change in electrical current could cause a bad shift or sensor to throw an erroneous code. What specific vehicle do you have, code are you showing and are there any symptoms associated with the issue?

BTW, about 2 quarts of transmission fluid leaked. Is this normal? Thanks again.

@@readytoretire1 Hey Boss! Yes There will be Some Fluid Loss, I Personally Had No Loss on this Vehicle but I've Known Others to Lose 1+ qts! Just be sure to top your fluid back off! A transmission fluid and filter swap is never a bad idea! As far as washers my bolts did not have any, nor did my cover have any gasket or RTV..I've Seen others have washers and gaskets and I haven't found literature from a maintenance manual to verify whether they're needed or not! If your car had either I'd toss new ones on! Thx for watching and commenting!

Hey thanks for watching and.the question! I apologize for delayed response I did not get the notification form RU-vid sent directly!! Based on the symptoms you described I don't believe the TCC Solenoid would be the culprit. The most concerning issue mentioned was the "strong impact"..I'm envisioning some form of clunk or drop when shifting which could be caused by a worn out bearing or internal part. If you changed the fluid and filter yourself and can recall if it smelt/looked burnt..overly dark or even silty as if there were fine particles inside that'd be an indicator of a More severe internal break down. You could always pull the dipstick and check the current fluid for any sediment type material (ceramic or metal flakes) or a strong burning smell but won't be as accurate as the old fluid would have been. But if I'm you..I'd have it inspected at a Local transmission shop as soon as possible. Some transmissions can be saved before it gets to the point if replacement/rebuild, let them diagnose it, most in my experience do it for free to attract potential customers, but even if it costs an hrs labor it'll give you the knowledge needed to make an informed decision!! Not the answer you were hoping for but best I can do! Good luck boss!!

Thanks for Watching! The Symptoms this Van had, was the Engine Stalling/Dieing/Shutting Off When Shifting from drive into Reverse. What Vehicle do You Have? Are there any Codes? Have you Checked Proper Transmission Fluid Level and that its clean fluid? A transmission flush and new filter might help resolve your issues. It does not sound like you are describing a issue similar to my van.

Good Morning. Thanks for your video. I have a 2011 town and country and it loses strength to make the changes and more when one is already going more than 30-40-50 and one lowers the speed to raise it again is when it no longer wants to accelerate well and becomes silly and it doesn't advance with pressure and the changes are slow at the end if it accelerates but because I have to press all the accelerator. and I don't have any code. and I already took it to the mechanics and they figured out that they can't do anything if it doesn't have codes. Thanks.

@@mariomoraleshernandez5054 So Based on What Your Descibing the First Step is to Check your Transmission Fluid. Make Sure it's Clean and Fresh Properly Filled. Not Burnt, Old and Low. I Do Not Believe a Shift Solenoid Will Fix Your Issue. It Sounds Like You May Need a Transmission Fluid Flush and Filter Change.

hello. Thanks, I already changed the oil in the transmission last year and there are no improvements, now I'm going to try. change the part of the video that you made, to see if this improves it. Thank you

I have a code po869 . My fluids is pretty high but not sure what cause it. But I’m believe if I fix what you fix and do a transmission fluid flush I would be ok. Do y’all agree!