Good tip that is where I will go next. My 2015 malibu has been bucking and even stalling at slow speed especially at like drive thru windows and parking garages. It has to be driven a little before it will act up. Ive had code 0455 changed the vent on the Evap. Then it said 0010 and 0011. So I changed the cam timing solenoids. I also tightened a loose intake. If it is still messing up ill check that.
Hey question I've got the same problem u explain matter fact all the symptoms you said in your video i changed all my pcv valve an oil still coming into my turbo an air filter so my next thing was to change that vacuum pump wen u did was ur car running better an stop the oil bypass
What was wrong with yours!? I’m having problems with starting and my rpm gauge goes out, also runs weird and inconsistent and can’t figure it out, I will try this next
@@jonahhancock5540 mine has a poor idle and starting burning oil like crazy. I have misfire codes on all cylinders. I also am getting knock sensor codes and idle air codes. I thought the video fixed the issues but it all came back after about 100 miles of driving. I have replaced both the pcv valves because that was suggest it might help. It did not. After using a bore scope the cylinders and valves seem fine. I can see the crosshatching on the cyclinders bore.
I have a 2013 Malibu LTZ 2.5L, no codes but rough idle when in drive at stop sign. Also using a qt of oil between changes but no spots on concrete. Mufflers are dry so none coming out of tailpipes. Any suggestions?
I did everything you did to your car to mine but i still am having problems. Mechanic said i need a new engine. Was wondering if you were able to get your car fixed and how you did it
My Malibu still has a rough idle after changing the Rocker arm/intake solenoids Oil control valve solenoid O2 sensors Mass Air flow sensor Vacuum pump Cleaned the throttle body The dealership mechanics said it could now be the fuel injectors causin the car to idle rough Did you change out your fuel injectors? if so where are they located ? If not do you know?
It could be a ECU going bad and has a short . It causes a lot of the same issues I hope it's not but it does sound like it and it throws multiple code errors . God Bless and wish you luck with it .
No I cleaned up the entire throttle body and the Buffer fly flap. If your gonna do this. I strongly recommend that you disconnect your battery both sides and cancel the stored 24 volts . That sometimes can be stored on a relay or ECU. The. Get a long screwdriver to wedge the valve open. Not 100% but 25-45% . If your throttle body inside is caked up with residue . Go easy on on the cleaning B-12. After you get finished with the deep cleanings pull your plug sticks. Not you spark plugs but the sticks off the plug so you turn over the engine to clear the over spray. After a few dead starts. Put everything back on but not your throttle body. Because you now have to spray it while it’s running to clean the entire fuel and air flow. . Try that and see if it helps. P.S this engine is DIRECT INJECTION. The next thing you may have a problem with is YOUR FUEL FLOW PRESSURE REGULATOR. It’s located under the driver side passenger seat.. that’s another thing that would control idle, acceleration and stop and state. Good luck. My contacts are jacked up so bare with me I am struggling to see the dam
I have a question did you have a rattling noise coming from the front of your engine . When you crank the engine then you don't hear it but the engine starts . I'm having this problem now after changing all the things you mentioned you did except the new piece that you said to check
@@jamesgo6517 well it wasnt the vacuum pump... the rattling stopped once i tightened the bolts behind the engine that everyone on youtube talks about, but yes i did replace it and it still is popping up that P0411 code which is Secondary air pump and i replace that it too. Im going to just take it to a shop and see whats up