2015-2017 F150: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement 

Doing this job tomorrow. I LOVE the video. This is exactly what informational mechanic videos should be: a few minutes explaining the steps as they're shown, extra bits of information along the way like gotchas, torque specs, and wrench/socket sizes. I don't need a 30 minute video for a 60 minute job, I need a five minute video showing the important shit. Liked and subscribed.

I used this video today to replace the hub on my 2015 F150. Thanks for a great video! Including all the torque specs was the icing on the cake.

It’s already been said in the comments here but this is the best mechanical how to video on RU-vid. The format is perfect!!! Thank you.

I like watching smart people work and hearing them explain it. I also appreciate the extra production work done to condense the video Excellent time saving video.

Hey really good video. I did find I truck to make it easier to install the new hub, instead of using the vacuum pump I just turned the ignition on and the trucks vacuum pulled it in just right. I tested that theory before installing and it worked out great. So if anyone else doesn’t have a vacuum pump just try using your truck.

Wow, a clear and perfectly edited video. I wish more youtube videos were like this. I like how you didn't start the video by shouting at the audience lol.

Fantastic video. Instructions were clear and very informative. I appreciate you listing the torque specs for the bolts. This also gave me a reason to buy a vacuum tester!

Doing this in the winter turned into a four hour job. Three and a half to take apart and a half hour to put together. Silly red clip broke on the wiring connector. Also had to use a floor jack on the wrench to loosen the caliper hanger bolts. Then the disk sized to the hub and I had to take them out in one piece to separate. But... It was a great video for reassembling. Works great and sounds great. Thanks!

Great video! Well done. I really like how you put the torque specs in the video. Very nice touch! Thanks

Very helpful thankyou. Everything went very well other than getting the speed sensor clip to open up. A little screwdriver lifted the tab and I was good.

Great video. Made this job a cakewalk for me. Thanks

Perfect video, very concise and to the point, love that you list the socket sizes and torque specs as well. Great work!

Excellent. First video I've seen the mentions the vacuum. Thanks!!

Great video.. The only thing I did different was left the vacuum hose on and just started the truck and let the 4x4 gear retract when I put the hub back in.

Great video, and I like the talk over to describe your process.

Great Video... Really appreciate the tool size and torque spec labels.

Thank you.... very clear and concise! Well done

Outstanding video. Thanks a million, you made it look so simple

I’m doing this now. Thanks for the video!

Hawt damn. Best how to video of all time. Great job.

Best video in RU-vid , thanks.

Excellent job. Thanks for doing this video.

Absolutely fantastic video

Thanks for the video. Especially having the torque specs.

Thankyou so much I will be doing this tomorrow or this weekend, I sent the video to my buddy so he can watch it and study it to so we know what we doing

The video is flawless man👍🏻

Now THAT'S the way to make a video!!!!!!

Many thanks for the torque specs!

Very very useful! What a great video buddy, thanks s million.

Great video unfortunately saw this after $1275 bill to fix mine, thanks to you and this awesome video I will do the other side myself when it goes bad, Thanks again!

Thank you for the excellent video.

Helped me today. Thank you!

Great video. My hub bolts were 18mm, not 21, and I found I didn't need vacuum to install, since my vacuum pump quit holding a vacuum on me. Also, the brake caliper bolts (the 21mm ones) have thread locker on them, as well as the 15mm axle nut.

Great video and very well explained! I appreciate the F150 series, given that these trucks are moderately new and stumbling across l videos like these are rare; so thank you for continuing to upload and work on your truck 🤠

Well this video was timely. My '16 F150 has developed a low speed growl (left front) with only 34K miles. Yep, just out of warranty period. Thanks for posting! I will be tackling this job soon.

Thank You for the video, saves me over $1000 from the dealership.

Thank you!!! Amazing video!!

Exceptional video

Very good video. Thank You.

Just thought I would search RU-vid for the problem I was hearing on my 2015 F150 4x4 Crew Cab (with only 70K miles!!) and bam!, you had done the video on your 2016. I still can't believe we are already having to replace wheel hubs on these realitively new trucks! Crazy. Very well put together and edited man, nice work. Thank you for the time and effort to video this. As I was expecting this is very similar to other Ford products. I've done Explorer hubs and they are very much the same. Subscribed man, take care, Clay

IF YOU DONT HAVE A VACUUM PUMP THEN START THE TRUCK AND THE RING WILL DISENGAGE

Great content for folks dude

great video, thank you!

this is great. I am having grinding noises and not sure if its just the IWE or the Hub or both. Will do some testing this weekend but this video makes it totally doable! thank you!

My shop wants $1600 to do this. I almost choked holding back my laugh.

Thank you

Good video, I Was wondering If I can do this myself. No more difficult than a break job.

Yes. With vacuum the gears disengage. But the video shows the gears engaging

Thanks bro

I didn't know you could avoid removing the axle and rear IWE. Will try this when my parts come. Looks like a simpler job than I thought.

Holy crap! My repair shop quoted me $2200 to replace my hub. Luckily I was still under warranty.

Thank you SOOOOO much for this video. You saved me hundreds of dollars I don't have to support a dealer's profit center. You have the best video out there on this in my opinion. Subscribed. Pros: size of socket and torque specs listed, video sped up where applicable (brake parts removal), made something hard seem as easy as it really is Cons: didn't show how to detach ABS cable from fitting in engine compartment. I spent another half hour googling this with no success and pried them off with a flathead screwdriver. My tip: don't waste half an hour trying to get the brake rotors off - save yourself some time and leave the rotor rusted onto the wheel hub since you're going to replace them both anyway, right? And replace the wheel hubs for both sides - they probably both need it. My driver's side was groaning something awful and had slightly damaged the CV axle, but the silent passenger side with the warped rotor actually had more leaked grease all over. Vacuum pump probably not needed - just wiggle the CV axle up and down a little while pushing the IWE gear to get check the gear retraction isn't physically impeded, and rotationally wiggle the new wheel hub before bolting it down to make sure that it engages the CV axle. Then once all together activate the 4 High switch while driving and listen for engagement, then switch back to 2WD. At least that's what I did, and it worked. Another tip of mine - pressure wash carefully the area around the wheel hub the day before. I didn't, had a bunch of caked on dried mud that fell into the CV axle / wheel hub area upon removal, wasting a lot of time "sterilizing" the area of sand and dirt before reassembly.

Nice!!! TY.

Fyi: vacuum not really needed. Put on - turn and it aligns. Bolt on..

If the cap is loose with the new hub you can use a ball peen hammer ( the round end ) to enlarge it to fit snug like it should be . Thanks for the video !…….

Just an FYI, the Ford tech from the FordTechMakuloco channel said the discoloration on the shaft of the CV axle is normal and not an indicator of a failing hub assembly. He said that even brand new ones have that bluing discoloration. I would have thought the same thing you did tho.

What happens if you missed doing the vacuum part or turning truck on? The new hub went on without any issues. It now makes a ding noise though everytime it rotates. Any idea what it could be?

would this also fix a c0030 fault code ?

I have this issue on my 2013 f150. Passenger side IWE does not disengage. Vacuum signal seems to be ok. Although I have no way to accurately test it, However testing it with the tip of my finger it feels pretty much the same as drivers side, which disengages ok, I thought of a faulty IWE, Replaced it and still is not disengaging. Any suggestion of what could be going wrong. Its like I am driving on 3 wheel drive all the time, Could this be due to a misplaced wheel bearing?

Did you have a little play after putting all new on

Turn the truck on to build Vacuum. No tool needed

My truck is a 2x4, so I assume everything is the same minus the need for a vacuum pump?

Do you need an alignment after doing this?

With vacuum the gears retract

I have a 2012 F150 and noticed my front driver side rotor/hub gets very hot compared to the other wheels. I replaced caliper, brake pads, and rubber hose. I thought that was going to fix the overheating but no luck. The rotor is also new and doesn’t wobble steering wheel when I brake. The brakes are working well. I’m just confused on why it’s still getting hotter than other wheels. I did notice there was a slight click on the hub when spin the wheel while on stands. Do you think that might need to be replaced? Or is making the rotor overheat? Thanks,

No grease on the new hub bearings??

Wheel bearing already?

My is making noise really bad in the driver side tire and it feels like it there’s something mowing inside mechanic it says is the axle but honestly I don’t think is the axle because like I said it feels like something mowing inside of the Bering I don’t think axle is going to make that much noise do you think it could be the hub Bering or the axle I will appreciate yo help and thank you for the video

GREAT VIDEO! I followed your instructions perfectly except....when I attached my vacuum pump the 4x4x ring only retracted a little bit and it was cockeyed, one side going in and the other not. When I grab hold of the main bolt the whole unit jiggles and I can push the actuator ring in but not all the way...there is a lot of play when I grab hold of the main bolt, in fact, I can push it backwards and pull it forwards and the whole internal unit moves back and forth...is that normal? is that inside unit with the 4x4 actuator ring supposed to be tightly fitted in there?

What extra steps would need to be taken to remove the CV axle

Great Vid. Just replaced my drivers side hub assembly with help from this video. The growl sound at low speeds is gone but I still have a heavy oscillating ("wub wub") sound when turning to the left. Any idea what that could be?

Thanks for that well explained video! Do the Caliper slide pins get relubed too when you put em back in? Thanks again! Cheers from Motown/Dearborn!

Is it best to replace both sides together? Or just when they (one) needs it? Thanks guys!!

This video is a bit old so not sure if you still monitor the comments, but thought I'd try. I've got a 2014 F150 and have had a grind/howl issue on both sides - currently a problem on left side especially at low speed when turning right and only in 2WD. This is the first video I've seen the hub/bearing replacement (great vid BTW!), but have seen several looking at the IWE side of the equation. Pretty sure my issue is with the IWE/4WD actuator and vacuum equipment, but would there be a way to rule out the hub/bearing? Would hate to replace the IWE, only to find out after that it was the hub that needed replacing.

Very informative. Is an alignment required after this install?

what grease would you use for the hub replacement if you were to use it?

If you don’t have a hand vac pump, any problem using remote start and letting the engine vac retract the hub?

Great video. When you put the new bearing in, do you need to add any light grease to the inside before bolting down? I didn't see it in the video. I know these are sealed bearings as well. Just curious about extra grease on those gears.

Hey I know this an older video but hopefully you see this, I just watched your video and did a new hub on my 2015 f150, I did everything in your video and it went good, when I went to test drive it it was humming at low speeds so I flipped it in 4wd and back out and it went away until I got tell about 60mph, then I started humming again but not as bad, I am wondering what I would of did wrong

Just turn your key on for the air vacuum

Very good video really enjoyed it. I noticed in the video you use the Motorcraft HUB-393 but in the link you have the MotorbyMotor p/n. Have you used both and like one over the other?

Great video, just one question What is the torque on the cv axle nut?

Would this be the same steps for 2015 4x4 eco? Need to know I will be doing this tomorrow!!

Where are you located

Also do you add any grease to the wheel bearing beside what came on it?

Lock tight on the Caliper mount bolts?

great video!!! will this work on a 2018 4WD?

Question. If your front driver side wheel bearing replaced and you still have some noise. What should you look for?

Was there no grease before installing bearing?

No grease required? I would of thought you would fill that hub with grease while you had access?

The sad thing is this truck needed bearings (like mine does) so soon...

Remove the whole bracket you don’t need to take the caliper apart makes no sense unless you are doing brakes too. Otherwise great video thanks

Did your abs and traction control lights come on? Mine did about a week ago on my 2018 with 85k miles. And now I’m getting wheel bearing noise.

Wait, so that little bit of blue on the axle shaft tells you the bearing is bad? Is there any other signs? Mine has said blueing.

Is this only on the drivers front side or is this also done on the other side?

Where did you buy the part from?

?? When I look up the Front bearing hub part the last letter changes from a-b-c-d-e-f-g-h ...not really important?

Oh. That is retracted. It engages the hub side for 4wd

Great Video question did you do both hubs?

If you don’t have a vacume pump can you just start the truck use it’s vacuums