Thanks for this detailed video! I'm cool with replacing the door and pillar speakers myself, but when it comes to electrical, I'm nervous to mess something up. I pretty much just need the wires and I'd be set to give this a try. Appreciate the level of information shared and maybe I'll take the leap.
I bought a Audio Control LC1.800 to run my JL Audio stealth box with 2 10W1 subs. The amp/sub combination sounded amazing. The amp reproduced a clean tight bass response for about 3mo. After the 3mo the amp became noticeably quieter and the bass response lost a small amount of clarity. I sent the amp into Audio Control (Stinger). They sent a brand new replacement. I never hooked it up because I bought a Fosgate T1000-bdcp amp to replace it while I waited to get my Audio Control amp back. The Rockford Fosgate provides a deeper more powerful punch so I left that in the truck. I have a pair of Image Dynamics ID12v3's that I want to do an old school stealth install. The Audio Control LC1.800 has a small footprint so it will be perfect and will look amazing when you remove the mesh panels. I have always hidden all my wires but the wire work on your install is beautiful and looks amazing. The wires add to the appearance of the equipment and just look fantastic.
Are you using a self tapping screw for the ground? or are you actually drilling out a hole and getting a nut and bolt on there? looking for a safe spot to ground my setup
Clean install. How would you go by doing the same thing except using the DSP? I have a Audio Control D4.800 which has the DSP integrated already on it. I'm just starting to get into car audio so I still have a lot to learn. Thank you or anyone that helps.
I have this same question. I tend to lean on the side of having more power/capacity than necessary. I plan to do an install on a '25 Silverado 1500 with the 3.0 Duramax. Just starting to do some research, time will tell.
Do u know the operating voltage range on these amps? AC doesn’t list it in the specs. My Silverado has regulated voltage and will see 15.5 volts during the winter months. I have the 5.3 engine
Great video, ive read several reviews where individuals have had issues with the axxess unit working properly with the refreshed silverado. I have a 2024 with the same factory bose setup, but i want to be sure about the axxess unit before dropping $600 on it, anyone else had issues?
What would I need for my 2018 gmc sierra 1500 I have a aftermarket amp and I'm wanting to put bypass my factory bose amp what all would I need to get to do that
Thank you! I gave some calls on Crutchfield and pac and they said scan the QR code in the door jam of the truck and it should tell you what code it is and which wire harness to chose from. Mine was a LOK so the LPHGM72 will fit not the LPHGM71.
What kind of warranty implications could this set up potentially cause? Have a brand new 24 and the Bose lacks so its getting some sort of upgrade. Only thing I could think this potentially, if it caused and issue is the Warranty with the head unit? Am I being overly cautious?, appreciate feedback.
It's always a risk, but does the risk outweigh the added new features? Fortunately, you are not cutting ANY wiring, so if you do have issues, you could always plug the bose amp back in.
The one linked on the description is the black/gray connector. Mine has the aqua/beige connectors. I know there is a T-harness to add a sub/amp but haven't been able to find one to also add a 4-chan amp and send back the signal through original wires.
Yes, in order to completely bypass and remove the Bose amp. You can use an LC5i but you will need to tap in AFTER the amp, keeping the OEM amp installed.
Usually non-bose trucks don't have the mounting spots on the back wall where the bose amp usually goes. My suggestion is to pull the rear seat out and see how it would mount. If it does still work, let us know!
Hello, I would like to know which harnnes I need to use for my chevrolet silverado 3500 crew cab non- bose system, I want to install mono amplifier for subs and 4 channel amp for speaker doors and keep the factory radio
You can't, all your chimes, notifications, and other necessary data connections, run over the data ethernet canbus. Removing the factory amp will cause issues with other electronics in the truck.
The same on the level of a DSP, but very different as the JL DSP requires you still to keep the Bose amp installed (so it can still communicate with the OEM radio) and you'd tap into the factory amp outputs for signal. Axxess piece totally allows you to remove the factory amp.
