Just had this done to my FR651V Also valve guide was stuck hopefully I'm on the way back to running on both cylinders 490 hrs when everything went South enjoyed learning what was inside my engine. Love that first start up sound💯💪🏾
@@tannersharryI replaced push rods on my daddy’s Kawasaki FH580V, should I have put a little lube on the intake and exhaust valve shafts? I was gonna do that but I forgot. Also, I noticed a little bit of whiteish smoke coming out of the dipstick, could this be from worn rings, the mower is a 2013 model? A little bit of oil seeped out overnight from the cylinder.
@@geramyballard5293 lube is a good idea but it’s not the end of the world if you didn’t. Does it smoke once the engine is warm? How many hours? The crankcases are pressurized so it is normal to see some vapors come from the dipstick tube. Thats why the pulse fuel pumps are hooked up to the crankcase. Worn rings will randomly smoke while it’s running and get worse as the oil warms up. The oil will be really black. If you pull the spark plugs you’ll see a good bit of carbon fouling built up on them.
@@tannersharry thanks for the speedy reply, I really appreciate it! It seems to do better as the engine gets warmer but I don’t ever use it since it’s daddy’s. I plan on mowing with it for a little while just to see how it does. As far as hours, I’m not sure but my best guesstimate would be between 400-500 hours but again that’s just a guess.
Hell yea!! Awesome job on that rebuild. Could have driven a Mac truck through the old ring gap. That’s going to be a brand new mower now. Thanks for sharing brother 😎🇺🇸🇺🇸
I agree! That’s one of the worst if not the worst ring gap I’ve seen. Doesn’t take long to sand the rings down to nothing when there is a golf ball sized hole in the air filter. Thanks for watching brother! I got it all back together. Looking sharp. Still have to replace the blades but that’s it.
Good video, I was just curious about the position of the rings, in fact I followed the video until the end to see that, but unfortunately we didn't see it
The main thing with the rings is to off set them. I apologize it wasn’t shown better. I offset the ring gaps by roughly 33 degrees. I never put a gap on the bottom where puddled oil could find its way through. Of the dozen or so I’ve done none have consumed an abnormal amount of oil. No matter what there will always be some consumption. Just make sure to get a good home job on the cylinder. That gives a void for oil to occupy and provide lubrication for the rings. Thank you for watching!
Ring Gap seem enormous on ALL the Kawasaki rebuild videos, makes me think they are made at factory with large gap as all of them (various xxxs of hours) all have giant ring gaps on top rings. either the ring wear like made, or factory lazy and put in big gaps on all of them
@@iowacorn9740 I will say everyone that has been neglected via air filter failure being the main culprit and extended oil change intervals. If they are running good but smoking a quick home and new rings will get it running new again. It only takes a short amount of time with a bad air filter to sand the rings and start burning oil
I just got a new Kabota 781 with the Kawasaki 850 EFI I’m gonna be keeping an eye on that because 250 hours is nothing. It’s horrifying what a bad air filter can do. How many hours can that engine go with perfect care?
It’s not unreasonable to expect over 1500 hours with proper maintenance. I’ve seen some with 2000 hours. Granted there was a lack of power but heck it had earned the right to be down on power.
This is the reason that you should never use compressed air to clean air filters. I would recommend getting the canister conversion kit for FR and FS engines which gives you commercial grade filtration.
That’s a great idea but these work fine if people would just put a new filter and pre filter in once a month and inspect the old one. Wash the prefilter and re oil it so it can be used again
@@tannersharry That’s true for sure but the average customer doesn’t clean them often enough. They get filthy in under 10 hours so I just went for the best option.
Funny, mine has 53hrs and is in the shop currently for burning oil. I just happened to check the oil level before doing my oil change for the season and it was at the add mark. Didn’t remember it smoking last season but finished up the oil&filter change and first fire up I noticed a little smoke. As got towards the end of mowing my 1.25 acres the smoking had gotten more noticeable. Took it into the shop I bought it from 2 years ago, first thing he points at is my Wix filter! It’s been a week so could be a good thing but I’m gonna guess warranty denied due to filter.
@@davidrichardson459 the list could be different for your machine. If it currently runs ok but smokes and doesn’t have a ton of hours you should be fine with just replacing the piston rings and valve seals. You can input your engine model number on Www.Propartsdirect.net
That’s where I get most engine parts. When it comes to internals I stay with OEM. When it comes to external parts I am not afraid to use aftermarket as long as the reviews are 4 stars at least.
I have a FR730V 24HP On a Gravley and it runs fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then starts spitting and spurting will not stay running. I have put on new Carburetor, Fuel filter, Coils, Plugs, Air filter, changed fuel 3 times thinking water in fuel and it still does same thing. What else could I check?
@@billywilkerson1249 I would check the fuel cap. Next time it starts running crappy open or loosen the fuel cap and see if it clears up. You can try to clean the vent out or just replace the cap.
@@darrenblamo9634 No I didn’t bother with compression. It had plenty of compression and ran good but the ring gap was so large that a lot of oil was finding its way in the combustion chamber and causing it to smoke a great deal.
