2020 Mazda CX-5 Sub & Amp FULL INSTALL 

On the off chance you see this again - this comment helped a shit ton 🥹 Way easier to do this than under the glove box

This is what the internet was made for. Sharing info!@@deadmandale1849

Whats the colors for speaker wire in cx5 2016

Does it works

Yes still till this day

@@_LrdDreware you saying to tie both the sub and the rear speaker together and run that to your LOC?

@@trevordoeseverything219 unplug the factory rear speaker and just splice into the wiring

@@_LrdDrewso you mean the stock sub for the Mazda is the out put speaker to tap into?

...it's behind the glove box (usually just right of the cabin air filter) . it's not behind the screen.

Human ears are 10 times more likely to get damaged by higher frequencies than they are lower frequencies an example being 145db from a 747 will leave you with 20% of your hearing left if you're lucky however 145 decibels below 30hz will leave you with a smile on your face. So although I agree with you that the baby's hearing is much more sensitive than an adults hearing the important factor to make sure we watch is overall volume especially in the high-end

this is low frequency it won’t damage your ears …

samintrepid thank you!

Doesn’t matter how nice the hole looks if you don’t silicon not only can water find a way in but now you also have exposed the metal moisture which will lead to potential rust issues at that location.

Glad it helped!

There's no need to use one method over the other. If the direct method worked well then stick to it.

@@rayg5445 Thanks, do you mean hooking directly is okay? I think the RCA I got from Amazon is not good quality.

Sometimes on the converters there's a level switch too, my old one needed a ground and also had a level turn switch

@@briancoleman617 Mine doesn't have any switch. I had to trash it and don't use any.

​@@ShayeqSadat001rca have better sound that's why sub goes lower

Did you ever figure this out? I also have a crappy bose sub and want to get something a little better thanks!

Did you ever find a place to tap into the speaker lines? I also followed this guide for my 2021 and towards the end realized that there was no harness. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

@Ray G yes I did. They moved the amplifier underneath the passanger front seat in the 2021 cx5. I couldn't find a wire diagram and the colors were all the same on the wire harness. I used the shotgun method picking at random. I then used my balance settings to figure out what speakers I tapped into

@@TheBullshero Thanks a lot! I'll be giving this another shot next weekend.

@@rayg5445 Were you able to confirm the location of the speakers connection being under the passenger seat?

@@rayg5445did you figure it out?

Haha that information is not out there. I had to pull each rear door panel off to find the wire colors to splice into. This is tapping into the factory radio. Radio sends the signal to the tuner/amp and from there it sends it out to the speakers.

Hi, did you figure out what gauge posi tap he used? Looking forward to installing this in my CX-5

@@muhammadfarhanrana3146 HI Muhammad. So I wound up using the blue posi taps for 16-18ga to tap into the main harness to feed to connect to an Audio Control LC2i for a PPI amp for my sub and used the red posi taps for 20-22ga to tap into the speaker wires inside of the pillars between the front and rear doors.

@@balfaboy Thanks alot mate.

@@muhammadfarhanrana3146 Anytime brother! Good luck with your install! Cheers!

90 RMS

Don’t take offense. I just meant It’s an upgrade from her civic si which is definitely not made for a baby! I love driving this thing!

Send me a picture

Someone above said the factory amps are under the passenger seat

Did u figure it out ?

You can get the add a fuse on Amazon, or autozone and oreillys carries them as well. Just be sure to buy an extra fuse.

I need the answer as well for this question did u find out the answer?

Just a word of caution: The signal going to the stock sub in the spare tire comes through a low pass filter. Because the car has bass drivers in the front handling the higher mid-bass frequencies, the sub in the trunk is only getting the lowest end. I tapped into that wire as you plan to do, and I found that there was an awkward effect where many bass lines would have higher notes cut out. The sub sounded great on the low end, but the front bass drivers are so much more quiet that it almost sounded like my amp was cutting in and out when a bass line would have a wide frequency range. The recommendation I found online was to tap into the front bass drivers instead, but the guy in this video is doing one better, I think, by tapping right into the signal out of the tuner.

@@jimcole4151so you mean follow the guy in the video by tap into the glove box for the lineout converter

It's to try and help centralize the sound so it doesn't sound like it's coming from a specific point. All a concept in sound staging and time alignment to have it sound as if you are watching a band on stage. Hearing the sound as a whole and mostly positioned to a central front of the listener. It isn't really for the concept of replicating a theater system, in that case you are trying to produce positional sound hence the addition of Atmos adding another layer of dimension for sound to be perceived.

Did you ever make any upgrades? I have the same system and it's such a dissapointment. Our minivan stock system has better sound.

Hey there, I have a factory Bose setup on my 2021 CX-5. I've been looking at the LC2i for adding a JBL Basspro Hub. Question I have is whether I tie into the output of the factory Bose Amp or tap into the pre-amp connection/harness? I would like to use the channel summing from the LC2i to get a full range of bass, if possible. From what I understand, tapping into the output of the Bose Amp to the factory Sub; I would lose a lot of the low frequency range < 50Hz. I appreciate any guidance on this! Cheers.

@@ridethesurf I installed a lc2i on my 16 signature cx9. I got the signal from the rear bose subs. But you can tap into the Bose amp as well it’s all up to you. My system sounds really good has a lot of bass with a small 8” kicker tube. Very good clean bass with no rattling of interior/external parts.

@@bigbawsz2054 thanks for sharing this! Much appreciated 👍

You can just hook the remote wire to a keyed power source

Actually for the Bose you tie into the factory amplifier. I’m not as familiar with the Bose but I believe there is an amplifier under one of the seats for the factory Bose subwoofer. That’s as far as my knowledge goes. Not sure what the wire colors are on it. It’s possible they are the same color.

@@JordanMoree damn. Thank you.

Dude my rears on non Bose system are like 3 or 3.5 inches. They’re attached to some weird plate. I stole the wires from to to get signal to my amp cause they were useless.

@@Srt8Jeep The Guys At Best Buy Said They Could Fit 6.5" Speakers In There If I Had Them, Unfortunately I went By Crutchfield's Website That Said That Only 5.25" Would fit In The Rear Door Panels.

The head unit sends a signal to the tuner/amp on the passenger kick panel. It will have a right and left signal like I showed.

@@JordanMoree thanks bud...tomorrow is the day I am gonna tear apart my car based off of this video to hook up MTX dual 12"....the kickbox audio cable is so short very difficult to tap from there, keeping finger crossed that will not ruin anything lol.... appreciate your help..

Some line out converters require you to connect it to a 12v but most don’t. If you’ve got your constant 12v and switched 12v running to the amp you shouldn’t need to connect the LOC. just connect your + and - signal wires.

@@JordanMoree thanks man. I just used the same signal wire as my amp.

Two*

You can use any loc usually. There is a difference in quality with some. The one I used is what I’ve had the best luck with for the price.

@@JordanMoree thank you so much!

@@courtneylayne6967 Hi mate, did you manage to do it? I did all the steps, from routing the power wire, grounding the sub, and tapping into the signal wires However, I still did not get any sound. I have a 4 channel 1000W Pioneer Amp, and a 12 inch sub, however, when i connected all the wires, I got no sound. Please let me know :) Thanks.

use some velcro feet

If you follow his guidance for install then I completely understand why you have feedback.

I would think so. Just be a matter of taking a look at the wire colors

Yeah those low profile fuses don’t allow much room for the add a fuse to go in. I was actually worried about this however haven’t had any issues so far.

Yup, I've definitely noticed. I'm assuming they lack a notch to hold them in place.

This is why my other comment advised you to do it right and connect it properly to the ignition wire as adding a fuse jumper your just introducing another very cheaply made component that can cause problems.

No the Bose setup will be different. I’m pretty sure the Bose system has a factory amplifier under one of the front seats for the factory sub. Not sure if wire colors are the same. That’s about as far as I can help you as I haven’t done one.

@@JordanMoree I see. I have an issue maybe you can help me with? I have all the wires spliced correctly but my amp won't power up. I have a kicker amp and when I turn on the car the red PRT light turns on, the green PWR light flickers, and then the red light goes out. I'm not too sure what it can be. What wires did you splice your LOC into for ground and continuous power?

@@framesngrains2933 you don’t need power and ground for the LOC. If you did it like me the amp will turn on with the add a fuse I added by the driver side kick panel. For the LOC you just need to tap the positive and negative for each speaker side.

If he has the Bose system with the Bose sub woofer then all he would need to do is disconnect the plug at the factory woofer and connect into those for his line out if he’s only doing a Subwoofer amp and don’t connect the Bose woofer back up it will allow the factory amp to run more efficiently with more available power and cars with Bose systems usually have woofer controls which with your advise he wouldn’t get that perk. There’s also websites that tell you wire colors and locations and will even tell you where to tap into ignition with photos for the remote turn on so you don’t need to do a fuse tap and it’s literally for pretty much any vehicle. Also no matter how tight you think the seal is at that grommet you should always silicon it as the smallest hole can let water in and I’ve seen it lead to disasters especially since you always seem to run your power wire as close as you can get to the factory wiring and electrical system. Ive made it through half of this I can’t watch anymore.

@@mugs2169 I have the bose system. Do I just get a subwoofer with line outs? Or do I get the subwoofer with integrated amp? I’m new to this and I just want some more bass in my CX3 lol. Thanks 🙏

Non Bose

@@JordanMoree gotcha. Would you have tapped it otherwise? I had a system in my 2018 cx5 gt and installed it today in my 2021 cx5 signature. It has the same bose system but sounds different than in my 2018. Is there any benefit to tapping a full range source as you did, opposed to the already filtered sub line?

@@SzechuanChickenDog heck no. I would always tap into the factory sub amp if you can. Sometimes you can get RCA outputs on them so no tapping at all! This LOC is just an easy way to get a signal to the new amp! There’s probably better ways of doing it but I’m not a pro.

@@JordanMoree I used an LOC also that has auto sensining on off so I was able to run my remote wire from that so it's only like 3ft away from the amp. Thank you for the video and your replies! I subscribed!

Be careful what LOC and specify it’s for a Subwoofer amp as not using the correct LOC one some of the newer vehicles, foreign or exotics can cause multiple issues not only that you need to understand high and low level inputs settings on sub amps which is decided off how you provide rca signals to whatever amp through LOC or new head unit as choosing incorrectly can easily lead to a fried amp or blown subs.

I know Mazda does a lot of their vehicles the same. It would just be a matter of taking a look. Be aware this is the non Bose. I believe if you have the upgraded Bose speakers theres an amp under one of the seats to tie into.

@@JordanMoree Thanks! Mine does not have the bose package, its the GS 2019 mazda 3. I can't find a diagram indicating which colours are for which speakers etc.

@@kevslo5546 did you ever figure it out?

@@pierrelucdionne1300 yes i did… cant remember how but i think i tapped into speaker wires under the glove compartment somewhere. I think i found a photo online of the harness where the speakers are. The headunit outputs are somewhere there underneath and not like they are commonly directly behind the head unit like most vehicles

I’m pretty certain it would be preamp in the Bose setup. You should be able to connect it directly to the amp. I believe it’s under one of the seats up front.

@@JordanMoree awesome thanks. Gonna install a powered sub and use the high level input. Think that voltage will be enough?

@@emmanuelnagib you should be good

I just bought a Mazda cx 9 with bose setup. Question: do I need to use second amplifier? Run the power supply from battery to it and take audio signals from bose amp to the after market? Or can I just tap into the existing factory signal set up to the existing sub with out the power supply?

@@paulbhupathi8126 you should really pull the power straight from the battery. Signals you can get from the Bose amp.

It does not... 21 and 22 (6 speaker non bose) do not have the amp module / speaker connections up to the right of the glove box.. i had to chase wires from the rear door speaker harness and tap in to them behind the B pillar.

@@balfaboy do you mind giving me a guide on where to find the that wires to tap into? And what color wires. I’m struggling right now and don’t know what to do😂.ty

@@WreakGaming Hey sorry for the delay. So.. if you have a 2021 / 2022 cx 5 non bose, 6 speaker system the wires i used on my 2022 were a SOB to locate, no schematics..any way i used and audiosource LC2i to connect the tapped into rear speaker wires to move that signal to a PPI powerclass 250 and to an infinity kappa perfect 10. So the REAR door speaker wires.. driver side are brown + and light green - and the passenger side is yellow / blk strip + and light green- So i tapped into them with posi tap connectors 20-22 gauge (red ones) . Getting to these wires, the easiest i can explain after totally tearing apart a brand new vehicle a few times before getting to this point is this... So the B pillar area..if you are not familiar, the post of the vehicle that is between the front and rear doors. Move the seats all the way forward, you will need to pop the step plates off on the lower front and rear entry as shown is this video, they pop up easy.. then you will see the plastic cover going about 1/2 way up the B pillar. This need to come off to access the harness comi g in from the rear door. So the TOP of B pillar plasric trim... pull out on the left and right side (pull left toward front of car and right toward the rear) on each side and kind of pull away from frame these are hooks... after that it is just pulling therest straight off away from the frame, lime shown in this video. Then when that plastic is off, you will see an oval hole in the frame and the white harness connector. There you will reach in and carefully pull the sheath cover back to expose the individual wires(i carefully cut the tape on the end of the sheathing). As you are looking at the plug, the speaker wires are the top 2 you will see the corresponding colors i mentioned previously. Tap into them, connect your speaker wires and run them down the wiring harness with zip ties or tape. I used an old speaker to test both sides with audio on before reassembling. Connect your line out converter to your newly tapped speaker wires, connect your amp, etc... good to go. Hope this helps.

@@balfaboy Thanks a million for this

@@andrewclark9065 Taking on this project soon with a '21 CX-5... Many thanks for writing this out.

Bose system has its own amplifier. You would add a set of RCAs to the output of the factory amp and connect them to the input of the new amp. If the Bose amp doesn’t have factory RCA outputs then you’ll need the LOC. pretty much any LOC will do. I’ll leave a link in the description for the one I used.

I tapped the wires right off the sub in the spare tire. It was a huge bonus that they're right there and super accessible. Some Line output converters have auto sensining so you don't have to run a remote from the fuse panel.

There is no need to do anything at the Bose amp if all your doing is adding a Subwoofer and yes it can matter what line out converter you use depending on what vehicle you are using omg. How did I get down this rabbit hole I need to leave but i shouldn’t give you advice as it’s installers like yourself that have me booked solid for 5 months out.

@@SzechuanChickenDog Hey there, just curious how the quality of signal is from the factory amp leads to the former Bose Sub that you tapped into? I am looking to install a JBL Basspro Hub with an integrated amp on my 2021 CX-5 Signature. I am also adding a LC2i to improve the quality of the bass and also for remote turn on. The setup will go like this: Head unit > factory amp > LC2i Line out converter > JBL Integrated amp. I've heard if you connect after the Bose Amp, you'll find that Bose EQ settings will eliminate a lot of the low frequencies (which you want with a subwoofer) versus if you tap into the input side (before the factory amp).. any insight would be much appreciated.

@@ridethesurf I heard the same thing about going after the amp. However, I have been extremely pleased with my results. I just used the 20$ scosche from Walmart. I think as long as the L.O.C. Needs a power and ground and is auto sensing, it's worth a shot. Try it and see. Like I said, the wires are right there in the bundle leading to the sub in the spare. Couldn't be easier. Also, the quality is pretty damn good. It's what bose is sending to their sub, so I would assume it's at least 30hz to around 100 hz. Generally you can set your low pass all the way down and be safe. Just set the bass in your head unit to not more than zero to start and figure out where your gain needs to be. Probably whatever is "normal" My amp has a spot that says "normal" and also has a gain knob I attached under my dash. And I almost never need it. My loc is set about halfway but just because no more is needed. The biggest difference I make is when I up my bass at the head unit or when I change the setting from "center" to off on the limited sound menu in the settings. I'm running a pioneer 1000watt rms amp and a Rockford p3 12 in the vented box Rockford sells it in for a single 12. And considering it was like 325 for everything. It's pretty damn absurd. Especially considering I'm only drawing 60 amps from the battery. I also just grownded it to a seat bolt right in the trunk also. So this cars total install time is about 30 min. And it's all hidden and it's almost as good as the aftermarket head units I used in the past. Biggest difference is I don't have anywhere near as much customisation with cutoffs and boosts. But if it makes boses little 5 inch sub sound decent... It will make almost any 12 bang. Hope this helps.

You would have to check a wiring diagram to see if the colors are the same. This video is for the 2017+ model.

Any good ideas where these diagrams are? I can't seem to find the exact year anywhere.

If you don’t by the cheapest equipment you can find like the line out converters it’s in the companies best interest to provide that sort of stuff for installers. Contrary to what this guy says the info is readily available for all cars on the road.