Part of the pdi is checking bolt torque after running the sled up to operational temperature and setting track/belt deflection/check coolant/oil level sensor by tipping on left hand side with low oil while running the sled/hand warmers/gauge functions then sending service report to polaris while machine is running to show everything is operational and then letting sled cool down to stone cold and torque clutch to 80 ft lbs. If all this was done none of this would have happened. Alot of dealers clean the sled set the track fill with oil and fuel and send it out the door not knowing if anything even works. A proper PDI takes time. I've found loose shock bolts a arm bolts suspension bolts primary bolts secondary bolts springs not on exhaust connectors not plugged in faulty oil sensors faulty hand warmers parking brakes that need adjustment to work properly....... Thank the guy that PDI'd your sled and the shop foreman that doesn't enforce a proper inspection. Polaris is a good sled they all have flaws but this was due to poor PDI setup.
With all the parts supply issues I was wondering if this would start to show up in the build quality. Parts suppliers have a long standing relationship with builders if new suppliers are sourced the necessary steps might be overlooked to maintain the quality the manufacturer usually specs.
I heard the matryxs have had reliability issues right from the start. Even worse then polaris are normally which is scary to think about because its bad to begin with lol
These machines promised 4 stroke reliability but have not proven to be reliable in many cases. For the price all brands should last much much longer than they do
Well, you have the guys that buy new, put on 3-4000 miles in a season and sell them. You have others that are selling 5+ year old sleds with less than 500 miles. They last just fine for the average guy. As quick as they've changed there are very few mountain sleds worth riding that have actually been worn out. Most people think that doing maintenance is hard though, and don't understand we have the closest thing to a factory race motor and it's got a warranty! At least there's no valve adjustments. My 450 manual said to adjust valves every 15 hours, and replace piston every 30 hours under race conditions. When I sold it for another 2t it said to replace the piston every 40 hours....
@@leftyeh6495 that’s not necessarily true. I have seen like 15+ Polaris’ on Kijiji/marketplace with 2500 or less km on them with top ends or new crate motors through a range of years 2012ish all the way up to 2019s and even 1 or 2 2020s in there
I can guarantee you, you will not find a polaris P85 clutch bolt that didn't come from polaris. "Grade" is relative. A bolt that big I'd rather it be grade 5, softer than the crank so it can't screw up the crank threads.
@@leftyeh6495 Sir do you know the Hardness of the Crankshaft ? Did you see any Marks on the Head of the Bolt? There was Zero. So you could use Blue Screw instead of Red. Was you a Machinist? Thanks
This is a difficult application for a high strength bolt. It is next to the engine so gets hot and stretches. It could work itself loose. The 80 ft lb is a moderate tightness. I did not see threadlock on the old one, to my surprise.
Remember to carry enough tools to do these type repairs out in the bush. If you break something it is good to at least take the broken part back to town to ensure it matches the new part.
@@edwardabrahamiii3742 Google Muskoka Freerider’s Freeride seizing with under 200kilometers on it. Thank God he had his Polaris Boost to keep him riding while Ski Doo figured out what the hell to do.
Same thing happen to me today, second ride I took it on with 5 hours on it, I’ll contact Polaris monday to see what we can do, unfortunately my weekend came to an early end
They better step it up. Half of there snowmobile workers are through a contract company and the turnover rate is insane. It’s like a new person in a different station everyday. All they seem to care about is quantity over quality and safety.
They should be sending that broken bolt back to the manufacturer to see why the head sheared off. I have never seen such a clean break on such a high strength bolt.
Looks like it probably had a crack, or an indication at the cylindrical part of the bolt to the head. And then the stress was to high locally at this position, fatiguing the metal until you only had the "rough spot" left, and then that part just gave up and the head let go.
The clutch is balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly, there are dots on the clutch that must be lined up with a mark on the crank! Looks like you missed that when reinstalling it.
