Just come across your videos mate. Bloody love them so detailed and informative for someone who is just starting out. Hope to see many more. Goodluck racing fro. Australia.
I run the BDK system in my R1 and yes, I have had it run out of battery on me a couple of times in the beginning. Having said that, I love it! I noticed more of a benefit from this than from going to forged aftermarket wheels. I seriously don't understand why you'd get rid of it seeing as it does make the bike faster and it is a race bike so it spends most of its time on stands and running warmers. Just add a plug to the battery and charge it at the same time! There's seriously no reason not to and it takes me 'maybe' and extra 5s before I leave the pits and that's if I'm being clumsy. Their manual explains that the battery BEGINS to provide charge at 4000rpm but it doesn't even brake even til 9000rpm (if I remember correctly). So cruising on the way to the grid or back to the pits after a race will also be taxing on the battery. Under a racing scenario though, the battery will be fine. I have done back to back full tank stints without recharging the battery with a charger during endurance races and it has never let me down. One important thing to know for those running these on a R1! If the battery goes flat whilst you're riding, the bike will lose all electronic aids a good half a lap BEFORE it shut itself off. So yeah, I nearly looped it hard at nearly 130mph before I learned to keep my battery on charge. Ps: Castrol SRF is also all I'll use on my bikes! A good way to keep them for longer is to instead of peeling the seal, use a syringe with a thick needle to draw it out and then slap some saran wrap around the tip before you put the lid back on.
Hi man, I'm just building a new R1 which I'm going to use road racing. U just wanted to ask again. If you charge the batterie before the race it will make the race distance without problems?
@@lukasmaurer1568 No problems whatsoever. I ended up getting a 'bigger' Lithium battery to use on endurance/relay races (22-25 laps) but that was a 'just in case' and to be honest it didn't actually need it. Unless you're racing on a very slow track where you can't get your revs up for most of the lap, I can't see an issue. And even then the battery should be good for a sprint race.
awesome info my dude. I started buying take offs from a local guy who got into racing this year. It was a great way to try out sc1 slicks for the first time coming from DOT tires, but not have to spend huge money. That being said, i went into it cautiously. Riding an r6 with no rider assists besides myself, i made sure to not go all out right away, and find where the grip levels ended. As soon as i felt the rear sliding out on corner exits, i swapped them. Regardless of the wear indicators. The 2024 season I'm going to probably starting buying new tires, and let some buddies run the take offs i havent used, to let them get the feel for them as well. ANYWAY...Great content, keep it up :)
As always great video, I i also have a BDK kit (in a 765 rs) and i also have the same issues , i agree it is a pain in the arse , to the point now where i bring my battery charger with me , ive also had to miss sessions for low battery, usually on a full track day by about session 5 my battery is about dead, im about to install in on an Anderson plug on my bike and ill just treat it like my warmers between sessions ill plug it in aswell to keep it topped up. Ive reached out to the company they didn't offer much insight so i guess we're stuck with it , even still ill leave it in because there is a definite performance gain, on my 765 ill still get the same punch out of corners as a 1000 so its worth the money, just a shame about the actual charging issue. Love you videos , it's refreshing that you have your own opinion when it comes to it and are happy to call it and go against status quo and are right by doing so, keep up the great work, love the videos 👍🏼
Nice to hear someone else had the same challenges. I am just not confident that the BDK can keep a battery charged, even if the bike stays above 5K RPM for the majority of the time it is running. It is a great piece. The other reason I took it off is because Full Spectrum Power was able to sell me one of the special batteries that they made for the Daytona races this year, with the anderson connector on top. I am going to get a couple more of those, and they are so light, small and powerful that they fit nicely under the tank bridge bracket and it lowers the weight and center of gravity of the bike.
@@KneeDownRider yeah I agree, I have tested one with a multimeter and it does spit out 13~14 volts but I'd say it's very low amperage given the same issues we both have. I like your way of thinking, I also use an ultralight for the same reasons . Best of luck with the rest of the race season !
Hi John, just watching back on this, you mentioned you had to buy a new bdk rectifier because it went bad, just out of curiosity how did you know it was bad ? Mine seems to be generating 13volts where as before it would easily pump out 14, I'm wondering if mines gone bad too ? All the light works on it and it does generate voltage , interestingly the max cut off potentiometer doesn't seem to make any difference
Great video John. With regard to the swingarm mod, do you just leave the back of the Lightech chain adjuster hanging, without the clamp that holds it to the rear of the swingarm?
The generator is now sold and has been shipped to Australia. This is the best lithium street battery for the R1 that I mentioned: www.fullspectrumpower.com/collections/motorcycle-batteries/products/pulse-ipt-battery-p-7s
Hi John How can I get in contact with you in regards to BDK racing generator? And would you ship to Australia? Either way love your videos and definitely helping me with my race bike build '22 R1M build! Regards Kristo
I was curious as to why you ran two spacers on the rear instead of one. How does the bike handle with the rear axle pushed to the way back? Does it feel harder to steer? Did you also raise the ride height of the bike as well?
The ride height was raised because the newer 200/65 slicks are much taller. This bike doesn't have the adjustable swingarm pivot like my last R1 but if it did I would raise the pivot all the way for the longer tire. The longer axle slot didn't raise ride height too much, but I did shorten the shock length a couple of millimeters when I went to the taller tire. The 2020 swingarm slot is a lot longer, which is why when you slot-out the webbing (see my previous video) the axle can go back about another inch. This longer swingarm is still over an inch shorter than the Suter swingarm lengths that MotoAmerica teams are running, so there is no fear of making the stock swingarm too long. Steering speed is not affected really, and if you wanted to speed up the steering you could add 1-2mm of offset to the front with triple clamps if you are using aftermarket triples.
It is perfect for the tracks that we race on because we don’t really have long straightaway sections but I encourage you to look at your laps on the gopro and see where you are in the RPM range. Many people start out with gearing that is too tall. it’s really good to be up above 9000 RPMs or 10,000 RPMs on exits if you can be so I think you can gear the bike a lot lower than most people think especially for Track days and Racing. Try it out!
I’ve got the CCU, so i see that im comming of the corners at 8300 to 9500ish. How high are you reving the bike? Mine is flashed at it tops out at 13000 rpm.
@@jondjurhuus5041 With 15/44 I was shifting at redline for some turns. There are other turns where it was harder on short track to get to redline. Ideally you want to be shifting in a race situation when you are up in the top of the power range (over 8-9k)
@@KneeDownRider Just a little confused, you mentioned its good to be around 9-10k on corner exit but then you mention you wanna shift at 8-9k? I'm going from R6 to R1 so just starting to learn the platform. With R6 I'd exit around 9-10k rpm and shift at 15.5k
