It's always been how much can you fit in there and still be able to use it to shop, store things like a luggage or 2, and still sound decent. Today, it's a single 10 or 12 in a compact car
Generally a great video! Lots of good info. You guys should do a sequel, talking about the compromises that need to be accepted when considering a subwoofer purchase such as power considerations, efficiency, enclosure size, budget, and music preference. There's no mistaking the accuracy of a subwoofer in a sealed enclosure, but a properly designed ported enclosure can be so much more fun to listen to and not all subwoofers can work in both types of enclosures. I recently went on a "bass diet" and went sealed after being ported and the sonic excellence was incredible, especially at the extreme low end, where the ported box that I have would unload and output would be diminished. However, after about two weeks, my "bass diet" failed because I felt that I just wasn't having fun anymore. I ended up going back to the ported enclosure and have been happy ever since.
I have a single 10" Morel 600w sealed in my grand cherokee. It offers plenty of low end. It's hidden in a custom box where the factory sub goes. Amps hidden too. No loss of any usable space and it all looks factory. That's how you do a good, clean install.
Not a bad video. Why do people say tens and eights are faster? That’s just not true, 30hz is 30hz regardless if it’s a 10 or a 21. Yes there is more cone area so it’s louder, but the amp is really the item that controls the sub.
@@GHOSMUSICexactly. There’s 15s that have high DB sensitivity like a stereo integrity sql 15. That thing has a 95 spl DB. That’s what really matters in terms of accuracy s well as cone rigidness and material choice
I've been out of the car audio scene for 15 years. My systems used to cost more than my cars! I think the last thing I was rocking was a pair of 12" Infinity Kappa Perfects. I want to upgrade my OEM system, but I'm so lost on what subwoofer models are the best 'bang for buck' out there these days. Thanks for the (re-)primer on subs.
Ok, I gotta join in with my old guys, HUHHH???? I had all kinds of different mixed in my first 4 cars, son of an electronics instructor Air Force who loved home audio so I learned the game early. I had a gel 12 volt battery in my bedroom 8th grade with head unit, amps, subwoofer in box. I was dying to get a car and go to work. I became the high school guy the older cats came to with blown up amplifiers and head unit's. If you never had a Fosgate Punch 40, 60, or 100 smoke up you're vehicle, like kicker used to advertise if you got it pump it! Those old Fosgate amps after hearing them up and blasting them for a while, the capacitor soldered on the CB would literally pop out the top 🖤 wing smoke everywhere. Whatever happened to Phoenix Gold and Precision Power ? Anyway, I've been itching for years so I am now blueprinting a custom setup for a F150 supercrew but the dash speaker is stumping me, how to power it. Maybe a 5 channel at stereo and a mono sub amp?
Another great video, keeping things simple for newbies and or consumers that dont dive head first into the rabbit hole of car audio 😂... that still have questions that every person From newbie to veteran has asked at some point.
One 12 inch sealed Infinity Reference with an Alpine 300w RMS in my Outback with HK system 👌 I like to enjoy the music and get a nice clean bass note to it. Im not trying to be heard, I'm just trying to enjoy the music
I’ve been using an infinity kappa vq 12 inch sub for like 17 years. A friendly reminder that you may love your bass but your neighbors don’t. It’s meant to be played while driving. Not rattling your neighbors windows
Old skool rewind? My first "big" system was 3 mtx 10's in a sealed box with a 760-something watt Xplode amp (bridged 2 ch, wattage was peak). Was mis lead so much back in the early 2k's with "yeah those will work together. Then again never had internet, youtube, and video guides 20 years ago like we do today. P.s. my best system I guess would be the one that was stolen, kenwood 2 ch bridged running 400ish watts to a JL 12w3v3 (or was it a v2?).
Josh, great video! I have 1 jl audio CS112LG-TW3 pushing by audio control lc1.800 and I felt like it missing the deep bass I'm looking for. Should I get 1 more CS112LG-TW3 or should I replace it with 1 12w6v3-d4 with sealed box? Thank you! Thank you
Thank you dor another great video. I have a suggestion but, more of a request.. could you do a video on a little bit more high end , hi rez 6.5" 3-way systems . Like in the 800 - 1300$ range ?.. im putting together a system for an 08 mercedes sl 550 and i want to blow away the Bose that was in it.. Thank you for all the great informative videos !
Man im having trouble picking out a good subwoofer on a budget. My problem is I dont have any point of reference as to what a good subwoofer is and where its ok to nickel and dime.
I listen to Metal 🤘🤘🤘 only and a 6.5 , 8 and 10 inch subwoofer in a sealed box is perfect . Even if I had space for bigger subs it's always the smaller subs for me (SQ)
What about sound distortion? I'm buying the biggest best sub for my Toyota Corolla. It has such shitty audio and bass. If I buy the biggest one, what do I do about getting louder speakers? Do you recommend door speakers or???
@@CajunReaper95 less efficiently doesn't mean they can't play it and efficiency by what standard? Cone area to cone area the smaller subs will be under less stress and use a smaller box. How low a sub will play is based entirely on enclosure and cabin acoustics
