Big shout out to bassheads who began their life as an audiophile using home speakers in the trunk. ✌ EDIT* Extra shout out to all of you out there who dropped a comment like you drop bass.*
This is wonderful information my og grandma can now correctly install her 2 18" subs into her hatchback and listen to her classic tunes of a timeless era.
Just want to say thanks for the videos... Took out my Mach speakers in my Mustang convertible, upgraded the head unit, upgraded speakers and did it through two different installers; I realized only after that I needed to do much research before jumping in (Planning phase of your other video), as the sound is lack luster... With COVID freeing up my time, decided to jump back in to make a great sound experience in my car and your videos are helping the path.
Michael Aranda people say 16-12 ga for speakers is plenty big and for subs 12-8 ga some people say 10 some people say 8 it really deoends on the power handling capabilities of your subwoofers if your subs are 500 watts or more go with 8 gauge, as for wire brand it doesnt really matter just look for more strands of copper wire and less insulation, some brands claim to be 8 ga and in size they are 8 ga but the actual wire is only 10 ga because the insulation is so thick, for power wires i used sky high car audio with copper crimp on ring terminals and im very pleased and i ran 8 ga to my subs currently 400 watts rms but im going to he doubling that so im ready for my next install
As for car amps 500 watts and less and you can get away with 8 gauge 500-1500 watts 4 gauge 1500-2500 watts 2 gauge and 2500-4500 watts 0 gauge and if more run additional runs of the same size wire to a terminal block
LOL 8g for 500watts lol. OK lets look at that statement. 500watts at a 1ohm load is 22v 22amps you only need 12g wire if that wire is less than 8' and 14g if its less than 6'
I'm a new be but watching and listening to the words of wisdom from you helped me big time .I am hooked on this and thank you for doing what you do and I have watched your videos to the very end every time and will continue to do so most importantly. Your videos have brought me closer to my little brothers and now we talk about car stereo system every day .I have a boat that I want to be heard from space I already have leds so I can be seen from space. I wish you could help me with the system so that could be my number best thing for myself and this helps me with my depression and has helped me deal with drugs that I have been battling my whole life. I'm 53 and drugs use is a problem because of my father taking his life in 1981. Cocaine is the problem and no matter what or who go drugs are everywhere. Music has always made me feel. And the last couple years. Have been hell .the videos you post have given me back some purpose in my life. Drugs have taken everything that made me happy away once I got the stereo fix from your videos. Life is different. It has even made me clean my life. My home. My car and do on thank you so much .. only wish one thing. Please help me with my boat this spring. Unfortunately I live in boring bay City Michigan. Blocks from the Saginaw river. In NA I learned this what are you gonna do when drugs don't work anymore .... Your words and wisdom. Is better then any drug I have ever done. That's the truth. Thanks and I sure hope you read my story. I would feel again I don't have feelings anymore .the only thing I do love is water. And u don't want to lose that. Like everything else in my life
Another way to prevent box flex is after building your box with 3/4" material, build another box around it with 1/2" or 3/4" material. Even the front that the subwoofer is mounted to. The depth of your port makes more air but also more boomy bass.
I made it to the end of the video. Old-school basshead hit 151 DB in 1997.. getting back into it building a stereo for my Jeep. Technology has came a long way✌❤😃
I appreciate every video u do! I follow a lot of different people on RU-vid, but you keep it real. I always keep coming back to you and exocontralto! You guys are the best! Still learning about routers and wood work. Exo shows what he is currently doing, and you show how it’s possible to get there! You’re work with details and the router are amazing! I have to remember to take it slow and plan it out, like you do. First box I built in the dinning area we don’t use, with a circular saw and jigsaw. Wife was pissed at the dust everywhere, lol. 1/2 inch mdf that was left over from furniture. I now use it as a table in my man cave. Learning is key with each build! Thank you for what you do for all of us!
I've seen so many people not know that the RMS in the sub should match very close to the amp, many sub manufacturers over rate their subs to what the max output is which can only be used to do short sound tests, it is important to know the RMS continous use so that you won't melt those coils on the sub.
I LIke it, I ran a small car audio business out of my house for a while, tax lic and all, and people were blown away at the results that proper planning, design and getting equipment that works well together. I used to profit off of building 1k$ systems that would stomp all over big box stores 2k$ builds all day long. right out of my house by getting a budget, expectations, and preferences from the customer, then I would custom design a system, make sure they approve, then custom tailor it for them. I'm sure from what your saying you know.... but I can't tell you how many 2+ bigger same ect sub systems that my single tantric hd12 used to stomp all over. and it was just because I put a ton of effort into making my box perfect for the sub for the vehicle and the music I wanted to listen to. To anyone who is thinking "aww its not that big of a deal, i can just slap some stuff together" you are missing out. take the time to make sure your equipment matches.... if your amp puts out 500watts rms @2 ohms but you run it at 4 ohms you are actually gonna only get 180-200 watts rms.. ect. match match match... take the time to get the right stuff to go with each other, and dont skimp on the enclosure.. It makes a world of difference.
I just spent 1200 bucks on a Rockford Fosgate T1s -1x12 and a R750-1d for my Single cab 93 S10. This thing Pounds. I was going to peace together my own but decided to have it pro installed. I think I made the right decision considering the proportions of the box. Your Videos are Awesome and made me think about the decision.
I love you bro because i’m a huge fan of car audio and i didn’t really know a lot i’m just a 14 year old and i have my truck and i’m making it my project and you’ve taught me a lot and now my sound system sounds amazing and well tuned
If you add a second woofer to a box, make sure that you adjust your port tuning. As the displacement of the second woofer will reduce the size of the box.... Narrowing the port diameter will compensate for the volume shrinkage but lower the efficiency slightly, but if the port is external. Adding length will do the trick, without changing the box efficiency much. 😁👍 As for excursion.... The woofers excursion will be very low at the boxes tuned frequency. The BL= mechanical strength of the motor design will determine ultimate output and the thermal limit of the voice coil. Loudness (SPL) will be reliant upon the resonant frequency of the vehicle , coupling of the box with the frequency and the woofers ability to convert amplifier power into mechanical movement. Livin' Loud. LBKC aka Rob V.O.
to check polarity of speaker, un hook from amp or headunit and touch on a 9v battery to speaker. whatever polarity of the battery pushes cone outwards, that's your speaker polarity.
Man I have loved all of your videos. They’re incredibly informative. I’m a research guy and I always like to know as much as possible about something before I spend money on it. You help me with that quite a bit.
Thank you !! For loving your craft, honing your skills ,and articulating so much knowledge ,science, and experience into such a concise and efficient presentation, such a gift.
Stock speaker wires are usually all different colors so it's hard to get the polarity correct. I'll get one of those polarity Checkers though thank you for video
To test polarity, all you need is a AAA battery or any small battery. Connect positive and negative side to positive and negative on battery and the speaker will either push out or in. Always want them pushing out
I know this is way late but, I have a RRSS 2007 w/harman Kardon logic 7 system. looking to insulate the door panels as well as the sorounding speakers. center dash & dual rear headliners. Point being is that I was rear ended and the sun inside the hatch is now apart of the repair project Currently have the option of upgrading due to lack of supply replacement. Henceforth my inquiry.
My best advice is to buy quality. I spend around 1000(got a event discount and only payed 700) on a amplifier back in 2007 i still use that amplifier. When it comes to speakers you have to used your ears. Some are happy with cheap JBL other wants Morel or JL top series. I have used Rainbow Germanium line. RE audio XXX and now Audiosystem HX SQ EVO2 all in a price range of 500. I would not get any more satisfaction by buying more expensive speakers but i also don't wanna buy something to a 100bucks. Sub i have had a lot of different ones. B2 AC12. Boston Acustic G1 10", Rainbow GLS12 and now JL 13W3V3 My setup is simple now with only a Audioson LRx6.9 6channel amp. Bridge to a 3chanal and that drives everything. I gould get something better for the sub but 240rms is within the rating of JL (150-500rms) and i could use my Hertz EP2X or Audioson SRx2S to give it the power it deserves and i maybe going to at one point.
You can use a simple 9v battery to determine the polarity. With the positive connected to the positive and negative to negative the cone will push out. Reverse it will pull in. Only hold for a moment, no heat will build, speakrs don't like 0hz.
Hey! Thanks for this video, I’ve always wondered how my installs pan up to a professional in the car audio game. I have a pro audio background and live sound install background so these sorts of videos really intrigue me. Thanks
So, I have a great system in my Rav4. Alpine everything. Sometimes in the summer months the rear door speakers go out. I’m thinking this is due to heat. The shop placed the amp behind plastic in the rear of the vehicle and I’m thinking it should be relocated to inside the vehicle so it can breath and cool with AC. I’m also wondering if I should upgrade wiring. The shop just went with OEM wiring of course. I love my system, just looking to take it up a notch. Alpine R series is killer!
Very good video and absolutely spot on many of these problems people don't think about when building their system acoustic design I've had the same problem I built systems that were very good and then I paid people to do system for me to put 4 12-inch Pioneer subs 1500 Watts RMS each with two Orion D5000 amps Nexus stinger battery and power cap their box design was crap a previously had two 12 running 400 watts that was much louder of push-pull config the actress was completely out of phase and out of sync total waste of time and money inch and a half thick box was hard to get into the vehicle at all let alone to get out make sure the people you get to do your box or system. Knows what they doing and have a track record and Systems you can check out
The easiest and most inexpensive way to check polarity of a speaker is to take standard 9-volt battery and touch it to the positive and negative terminals. If the cone pushes outward then the polarity is correct just look at which terminals are connected to the positive and negative on the battery so you know which is which. If the speaker cone pulls in instead of pushing out that means the polarity is reversed and you just need to switch the battery around so that the speaker cone pushes out. Then you mark the terminal that is connected to the plus side of the battery as positive. Simple as pie period and requires no extra equipment.
That only tells you polarity at the speaker. You must test the full signal chain, and the only way to do that is with the tool. A battery can't simulate the signal on a CD player /multimedia player
Problem is you are only identifying the terminals on the speaker that way, you have no idea what the polarity is for the signal from a factory radio, or if wires were not corrected correctly. The tool I show in the video allows you to prove with 100% certainty that everything in the signal chain is correct. (As explained in the video)
Hi , what about choosing the right box for subwoofer for the type of music a person would listened to ? I listened to soft rock , rock , disco , easy listened music , new wave , typical 80'smusic and 70's disco . ...I'm after quality of sound. NOT LOUDNESS ! LOL
I can't stress enough how important speaker mounting is. Your sub needs to move air by basically moving a small sail back and forth, you don't want the sub to be using energy to push the box back and forth like a small sail boat. Even if it doesn't move, that doesn't mean there isn't energy being lost. Remember the subwoofer puts equal force on both the air and the sub box. Newton's third law. To get the max amount of sound you want 0 work to be done on the box (work = force x distance)
SIMPLE SPEAKER POLARITY TEST - Use a 9v battery the terminals generally match up with the speaker/sub terminals. When you touch the 9v if the polarity is correct the Cone will Move Forward
@@CarAudioFabrication Without a doubt a proper tool is always best. This is ONLY to test a speaker in a pinch and does not, and will not replace any proper tools or measuring devices. I have used this simple test on a few projects with speakers where there are no markings just to verify polarity. BTW, thanks for a response you have some excellent and well-researched videos. Do you have any videos that explain dB and SPL graphs for something speakers with something like subwoofers? This information and the graph comes with speakers but I would imagine that very few people know what the heck it means and how to read and use the graphs and information when making a purchase of a sub/speaker. Like explaining how the graph works, freq response dB and SPL and how to use this to buy a subwoofer. Like for a very crude example of how a 100W Sub at with a 90dB would be perceived as the same volume as a 200 watts to a Sub rated at 87dB... essentially the same volume but one has double the power. I really feel understanding all this is of great importance so we can buy what is correct . I would like a video on that to fully understand it, you are obviously leaps and bounds ahead of me with your knowledge and I want to say thank you for sharing the greatest tool in any toolbox... that tool is knowledge
for me i have got 2 slim subs (jbl bass pro nano) they are ment for under seat install and they are great since i have a car the size of a fiat 500 ( suzuki swift 2021 sport) so a 10 inch in the trunk is not really a option if i want to have a useable trunk.
I have built 3 different builds for my 92 f150 xlt lariat single cab and its been a disappointment. The doors, tweets, and under dash kick panel is great. Sub behind the seat is sad. Due to no air space and little space to build in. Sub hits the seat and after about a week the voice coil goes. Only option is to get rid of my 10 and go to 8 and that should be fins
I checked to make sure I wasn’t repeating questions but what was that 4” mid that you were displaying for polarity checking. I’m doing a 4 way in a single cab truck and already have some but want better pair. Or is there anything descent at a reasonable price that you recommend. Most I find are 2 way out there. And thanks for the great videos as usual
I watch till the videos till end 🤚😁 Kindly, advise on pioneers subwoofers; ts-d12d4 vs ts-w3003d4 which is better in low deeeps and durability considering electronic specs are identical; only material guild seem abit different. Using Pioneer GM D9701 Class D Mono Amplifier. Thanks.
I have a 2017 f150 xlt. Replace factory shitful speakers(thanks ford) with some focal 6.5 front/back. The height and vocals are great.but,you guessed it,not much bass.and,I really don’t want to shatter the windows. Just need a boost in bass. So I just ordered a powered sub,8”..going to install this weekend. I hope it helps! Thanks for your tweaks and advice. Peace brother?
I just put 2 10s in my truck and they sound good but I noticed that both subs look like they are being sucked in instead of being pushed out, maybe I got some wires switched around some help would great since I’m new to car audio
The best solution for trunk snaking structure noise is build a another fiber glass box 📦 inside the trunk and place the subwoofers inside the box it ll work like a bandpass subwoofer
I have a ex-cop car so I know I have the power to power the amp. I have 2 12 in. XXX Woofers with a 1200 amp. It hits alright but could be louder and smoother.
My big issue...what's the elegant, "right" way to get big honkin' beefy cables from the battery back to the amps? I mean 00 gauge wires don't like to bend, don't want to go through a firewall, generally just don't want to play nice at all.
Disassemble the whole interior and wire as low as possible, far too many people go the easy way and just pull door sills and try setting the wire on top of the OEM wire bundle, then are surprised when panels don't go back on. Not a problem for 8 gauge wire, but bigger build, bigger wire, and a big part of the reason labor is going to cost so much more for a big system to be done right.
Mazda miata 90-97 have their headrest speakers wired incorrectly from the factory. What is wrong with testing polarity with a small battery? Like a AA 1.5v, put + to + and - to - and look at the speaker. If it is wired correct, the cone will come outwards, if its crossed then the cone moves inward.
So what's the deal with "Bass EQ" knob on my Alpine 500 mono Amp? Everyone says to turn it off or down, but it makes my Jl 12v3 2ohm 12" sealed sub great halfway up at 6db. I set my amp gain using a multimeter, so its set properly at just 1/3 of the way up.
I’m a complete newbie and I don’t know anything, please help! An audio shop sold me a 4 ohm subwoofer to replace a blown out 2 ohm. They wouldn’t accept the return but told me that it would still work. I don’t know how to wire it properly to get the bass working at full capacity. The sub is very quiet.
About flipping phase of a subwoofer in a regular 4 channel bridge or a mono Channel i have been told from a electronics engineer that it may cause damage for the amp he told that the plus and minus should be as the markings is that true or not
Watched to the end, a lot of this seems more like common sense. That said I assume if I have a 15" sub with a box tuned for 32hz should I set the subsonic filter closer to that to prevent clipping and the like?
I have one question that, when I roll down windows of my car, i can hear more bass from my mid woofer. Can you put light that why this happens? And how to get same effect without rolling my windows down or opening the door? Thanks
I have a question, I have 2017 BMW 330xi with Hi-Fi, I have upgraded Tweeters, Mids front and Rears and two under seat Subwoofers also installed Match PP86 DSP Amp, I bought all this from Bimmer-tech. I feel I need more bass, can I add Match PP 7S-D Compact trunk Subwoofer and not loosing existing underseat subwoofers?
I bought a Q Bomb single 12 box the rhino sprayed one but my question is can I dyno mat the inside will that help it at all or is that wrong to do? Thanks
Found this video while researching how to add a CarPlay HU to a 9th Gen Accord (2013 EX) Seems I'm better off trying to move a mountain with my mind ;0)
