As the best jewel theif, I love when Sir Robert Murray-Smith does different kinds of joule thief videos. Brilliant! So if you all see the lights go out at the royal palace, it is because I have stolen the Royal Joules !
Nice presentation Robert with inexpensive components. In order to get my Joule thieves smaller in size I stripped the wire off the core of IF coils from an AM/shortwave radio. Rewound 12-0-12 turns of 0.3mm dia magnet wire. Whole circuit fits onto an AA penlight battery.
The fact that you can light up another LED via near field shows that the circuit is losing power to the either due to the high frequency that it is operating at because of the air coil. Needs a lower operating frequency to be more efficient. As a HAM radio operator the interference that this would create scares me.
A simpler way to wind a small toroid for a joule thief is to pinch the wire together, then push that pinched wire through the toroid about 10 times. You don't even have to be particularly neat about it. The pinch point is the center tap and goes to the battery positive terminal--skin the insulation off and solder to it. One of the free ends goes through a 1k or 2k resistor to the base of an NPN transistor. The other end goes to the collector of the transistor. The LED goes across the collector and emitter of the transistor--be sure to connect that before making the final battery connection! Finally, connect the transistor emitter to the battery negative. A joule thief is a "blocking mode oscillator with a flyback output". They will typically run about 30-70 kHz and throw off LOTS of low-frequency RF noise if you use an open core coil as seen in the video. They are much better when using a toroid. The LED _must_ be in place across the transistor to absorb the energy or the flyback voltage will kick up high enough to destroy the transistor.
This was the first Joule Thief I built and it was from the exact same diagram, Patrick Kelly's Free Energy PDF. He has a RU-vid channel where he reads out his text, but adds no new information. But this JT works!
The Circuit drawings do not match the 1K resistor is connected in different places. In the first drawing it is between the B and 1 wire - In the second drawing the resistor is between the coils and pos, so the coils are not connected direct to each other ?
Is it possible to use a PNP with AM241 in it to power a Jewel thief using super capasters.? Can you go over how you open up a PNP to put in AM241? And if I put two buttons of AM41 in a PNP, will it produce more Jewels?
0:58 SWG = Standard Wire Gauge. apparently the European standard, and AWG is the American Standard. There is a slight difference between SWG and AWG, sizes. There are online conversion charts but 28 AWG and 28 SWG are not exactly the same size though they are fairly close: AWG = .0.3211 mm and 28 SWG = 0.376 mm., according to the chart I found. I don't know if this makes a difference or not.
Really all you need to do is wrap the wire around your favorite bean can. Take it off, you now have a high frequency air coil transformer. Make your connections. No coil form needed or ferrite.
Use two RF chokes side by side with a 2N222 and a 1K ohm resistor an LED and a near dead 1.5v battery. Use a capacitor and a 1 meg ohm variable resistor and you have got a blocking oscillator circuit. Hold this next to an AM radio and you have some crazy Sci-Fi sound FX.
" near field transmission " so in other words induction ?, so would changing the number of tuns on the second coil - more than or less than - the first coil effect how well the second LED lights ?
So you just skipped the wole "Roundabout" via oscilliating Transistors DC to "AC" back to DC? Only using "Near Field" Electromagnetic fields to make a transformer? Actually i think this is more efficient than the original Scool Girl cuircit losswise as you jump possible losses in charge/discharge a ferrite magnet and the efficiency of the transistor and a resistor(electrical resistive load in principle) Makes me wonder ;).. Did you just make a Corless transfomer?
If you happen to have a long wire (network cable or old telephone cable), you do not need to do any winding, they will work even with all the isolation on it. Will you do more out of PJK's book? In the past I did read every new magazine that came out, but somewhere in time I lost it (interest for those free energy projects, since my thoughts is that IF there is free energy, we will use it and heat up the earth in no time, so that may well be a good reason to suppress it).
From a Montauk Scientist, haven't built myself yet but it's a free energy antenna , Outer frame of antenna is + in a diamond/kyte shape standing virtually, now the negative iron rod goes from center of diamond at the top to ground insulated where diamond bottom is braced to it. Now the $10billion dollar question to make it work sounds weird but I got the answers why. The iron rod at base has to have a oscillating switch built into the iron rod (parallel switch negative in negative out) example a simple 12v motor with a wheel attached with one small cam lobe on wheel so one contact every revolution with the iron rod switch. Then you run the motor at exactly 1800 rpm yes earth's revolution speed , it's the biorhythm/ frequency wave , the iron core beneath our feet making a magnetic feild for free . That's topsecret suppressed I thought why not tell you not many know . I was planning a 6ft diamond 2ft wide out of raw alloy 10mm rod and 10mm iron rod for negative. So the aim is the negative pulses on/off with the wheel /switch which captures the magnetic feild at the right wave form. Cheers be careful I don't know how many volts it will put out..
Look in to SJR Looper by Lasersaber. If you reverse the polarity of the capacitor in that, it will be blinking. It's basically the same circuit, but with 1 to 3 coil ratio. I think the size of the capacitor will determine the blinking speed.
I tried to reproduce the circuit and wasn't successful. I wound about a meter of each pair of copper wires (not necessarily the same diameter wire as Robert used) around a 22 mm diameter plastic water pipe, so I may not have made the transformer correctly. I don't believe I ever had the transistor oscillating (switching). That said, one of Robert's circuit diagrams appears to be incorrect. The one shown at around 2:05 shows the base of the transistor grounded, which won't work. Also, this circuit is a bit dangerous if you use a variable power supply rather than a battery as there is no resistor in series with the LED. If the inductor works as a dead short and you have too much voltage, the LED and transistors burn out. (Ask me how I know!) But that isn't the circuit Robert seems to be describing, as he has us connect two wires on the transformer, which corresponds to the battery charger circuit diagram shown at around 2:22. I tried that circuit and don't believe I ever had the transistor switching, as the voltage at the diode's cathode (I used a load resistor instead of a battery under charge) was identical to the input voltage. I don't really have more time to devote to this. If I did, I would copy Robert's transformer more faithfully, and drag out my antique oscilloscope to see if any switching is happening.
A 22mm plastic water pipe is way too big. I'd try something like a pencil. That way you would get more turns per length of wire and the inductance should be higher as well.
how to determine the output desired voltage? is there any limits of power (watts) input (ex: 12v 100A car battery) ? usable as a car starter booster? can we control a bldc with a joule-thief and its frequencies?
I love these videos, however I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about in this one. It would be helpful for idiots like me, to explain what a "joule thief" is and what it's used for. So why didn't you just connect the battery to the LEDs instead of spending all that time rolling paper and wrapping it in wire? Please explain for the uninitiated.
A joule thief is basically a DC voltage booster. It will work with a 1.5V battery to give 5V (or whatever). It works even with very low currents. So it will drain a 1.5V cell almost completely whereas usually a 1.5V cell is considered "dead" even when it's not completely drained of energy: there's a bit left. Hence the name "joule thief". And it's a pun on "jewel thief" so that's good too!
