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Constraining the z-rod like that might be a very bad idea, basically these printers were designed for it to be unconstrained, if your rod is not straight then that is because either it's bend or held in place wrong and there can be several place where it can be held wrong.
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A Z rod guide is never a good idea. A slight wobbling is usually not an issue but if you force that wobble through a guide, it will definitely end up showing itself in your prints. Just let it wobble as long as the steps are OK
@@bobh0905 The ones creality sell do not do exactly that. I have the creality ones as they came with my Dual Z-axis kit for my 3 Pro, The ones printed in the video are a solid stiff piece of plastic that forces the rod into a position. The creality ones have a bearing inside that can actually move around, they are held in place by springs on the inside I believe, but they are just light enough that the rod can push the spring if it needs to. It keeps them straight with wiggle room, printed ones do not and could damage the rod that way.
@@bobh0905 yeah but what I was trying to say was that the bearing can be moved around by the rod on the inside of the creality one, the printed ones keep the bearing in a static place
The bubble leveler serves no prupose. You tram the printer, not level it. The grip handle reduced your max build height. Idk why you stopped at the z extrusions for the slot covers. The z rod stabilizer is iffy. Everything else is nice.
Push the Y axis up and down with your hands and you will find that not having a double Z axis gives the bubble leveler some sense. It's only a monitoring sensor, just in case you're finding strange values in bed tramming, and you understand that the problem is Y axis level.
the z stepper spacer is only needed if you have misaligned motors, which were common in the original ender 3 v1s. It might do more damage to Ender 3 v2's
When assembled (correctly), my z-axis drive screw was not parallel with the vertical riser. I carefully sanded about .015" off of one edge of the z-axis stepper bracket to make it align. That bracket appears to be flawed, and it's a flimsy attachment. Once the drive screw was properly aligned, the printer worked well. I am considering trying those printed shims (although I'm not having print problems now). It seems like an improvement.
I actually like some of those upgrades. I just bought a used one and it has a few kinda like these. The best one that mine has is a LED strip in the frame around the tower. It helps a ton.
@@urgamecshk it “destroys” it by constraining it. Constraining it for too long will eventually cause stress bends, especially if you’re continuously printing tall prints, and even more so if you have direct drive. A bent rod is useless and is considered “destroyed”.
the very first thing you should do to an ender 3 v2 is to print a new PSU cover. you can see at 1:58 the big plate at the bottom of the machine that has some missalligned slots for the fan but **NO** vents for the air to go anywhere. under the black aluminum plate there are vents that are completely covered up by the black plate. remove that if you don't want your printer to go up in flames one day lol
@@sonicsupersam7793 causing unnecessary strain, if the rod is displaced by that much and it causes you problems, it’s better to try to fix the alignment where it’s held, not to add another one.
Buy a proper bearing block and couple it with a spider coupling to the stepper.. The right way.. Oh and for the love of god don't sit a hot stepper on fecking plastic 😂
I started printing around a month ago and 1 thing I absolutely recommend to use for the bed are dial locks. I found a file for them on thinigiverse my first week of printing bc I instantly got tired of dealing with the bed. I have not had to level it again in about 2-3 weeks. Every print first layer is perfect as long as bed is clean. I never see any channel or anybody suggest them. Is there a downside to using them?
hey, there shouldn't be a downside as the bed dials shouldn't rotate. As long as they don't interfere with any moving part you will be good. (p.s. can you send that link, I have been looking for one)
for me the most important upgrade that i actually had to make was the spacer for the z axis motor, when i assembled mine, the assembly could only go up for a little and then it would start grinding and then get stuck, as soon as i put a spacer on for the motor i had zero issues
Terrific video. I will probably only use a couple of the items though: The bed pull, and the dial knob with "wings" for speedy scrolling. I moved my filament roll to the side of my printer, so it feeds directly into the extruder, so I don't need a filament guide. Rather than the side storage bin, I'll probably build a camera mount there.
@Russell White Yeah, the bed tab is crap, as its linked to your springs, you will mess up your level every time you touch it. Agreed on the dual part cooling duct.
Just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2). I am excited to print some of these myself. What filament did you use? That color looks like it matched the default knobs very well. Thank you for linking the files!
Great video, I dont know if they have changed the length of the bolts used for the top brackets, but they are not long enough to be able to screw into the top bar with the spool attachment. It should be a simple fix of just sanding the base down a bit, but id thought id comment just in case some other person is running into this issue. All in all I love these mods and most are such a nice improvement of life upgrade.
5:43 Watch out with the spool holder, I tried one and it broke during a print after only a few hours of use, almost ruining my entire print! Either try printing a reeeeaaally sturdy one or just let it be
First 10 min of the vid are a waste. It looks nice and customised. But almost everything on it has no use. You want as less as possible items dangeling on there. The spiral. Dont restrain it. Someone else allready said it. The feet. Keep em like they are. Sturdy and absorbing some of the vibration. I whouldn't even use the spatula to get prints off. Glass expands when it's warm. Then let it cool off and print's just pop off. (No scratches) The usefull upgrades start with the yellow bed springs. And the bl touch. These are propper upgrades. If you are gonna mod the filament holder. Try looking for the one with the bearings that fit in. Result is less friction and less stress on the extruder. Also get the metal extruder. And yes the bowden tube. Capricorn.also good. As for alot of upgrades. Try the assemble vid of "a tomb of 3d horrors" And you won't even need em your printer will be better alligned and therefor nicer prints from the start. One of the best upgrades in my eyes is octoprint with a raspberry pi. That way I can leave the house and keep an eye on my prints and even force it to stop. (Yes its better to stay at home but some prints take time. For a more personal touch. Yes print the strips and click them in. But you don't need a handle. If you are gonna move your printer around it will only get out of allignment and need new tweaks again to get propper prints. It reminds me of a over customized car (wich is a personal choice) but it doesn't do the performance any good. After sounding only negative. I do like the video and the way it's shot. I looks professional. So sorry for sounding like a compleet douche.
@@Noise_H well the guards for the extrusions are ok, bl touch, maybe the capricorn tubing and then i dont remember anything else that would be that useful
Moving the spool holder on the side of the top extrusion , makes no sense to me. Its usually bad in the middle and I can only image how this will affect the prints with a lot of retractions when the spool starts to wobble, when is off-centered like this. Side mounted spool holder is a good update only if mounted on the side base extrusions, making the other wheel update(just before the extruder) redundant as well, since the filament is will be coming from the perfect angle.
The roller guide adds further salt to the injury. The printer already feeds filament into the hot end using a motor, there's no need to aid its path. Doing that will add more resistance and might result in under extrusions in case the guide wheel gets in the way, since the printer has no filament sensor.
Hi, thanks for this video! I'm just now seeing this video and I've purchased an ender 3 v2. Not sure if there's already a follow up video on this channel, but seeing as its been 6 months, it would be great if you could share your experience with the mods - do you still use all the mods shown here? are there any mods that negatively affected the performance and also any that dramatically improved the performance? Thanks!
Ideally, you should have 100 hours of print time with the printer on its stock configuration before changing stuff, otherwise troubleshooting later is a nightmare because you have no known working setup to measure against if something goes wrong.
First of all. This Black/Blue Style is fantastic. Maybe that's cause blue is my favorite color. Some questions: 1. ) I heard a good upgrade would be the metallic feeder?, too. 2. ) I read the AUtobed Leveling doesn't work on the Ender V2, or is there a special V2 Version? I look forward to buy this Printer as my first one next month. SO I definitely need blue Filament, how much kg do I need for all those parts? Greetings from Germany.
Hello, 1) Yes it is great upgrade 2) It works with latest versions, for old versions I don't know, but you should upgrade its firmware, you can use following one, I loved its functions: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases 1KG filament will be more than enough, but be sure that your blue color is the same with color of parts that comes with the printer in stock, so you get great accent
@@Robin-Visser you are putting pressure on the rails and are ever so slightly introducing misalignments. This will cause your prints to come out less than perfect; and the Ender 3 V2 is capable of producing print quality that equals that of $2,750 dollar printers -- if aligned and tensioned PERFECTLY.
@@Alucard0715 Can you guarantee those feet will come out flat out of the printer? No, because most pieces of glass are not flat. The stock feet will compensate since they're made of foam. Maybe if you print yours out of flexible filament. But if vibrations are a problem for you, I suggest putting the printer on top of a cement slab.
honestly i dont recommend actually doing any of this to ur ender. The machine is designed perfectly. The only thing here that really benefits you is the Z axis alignment print. Other than that get a PEI build plate and call it a day. Changing all this shit can throw off the operating parameters wildly. Especially the springs for the build plate, and the printers feet. You added plastic and shrunk the amount of rubber. Making it much more susceptible to vibration. Just buy foam panel from an art supply store and put your printer on it.
The problem is when people buy the printer and already upgrade it without using it. Ideally, you should have at least 100 print hours on it before adding anything else to make sure everything else is working properly. Best upgrades for it would be the BLTouch or CR Touch sensor, PEI sheet and Jyers firmware. If you add the touchscreen, you're essentially turning your 3v2 into a CR 6 SE.
You must have installed z axis spacer to add Z-axis Stabilizer With Clip? or I can add to my printer the Z-axis Stabilizer With Clip directly Without any other upgrade? Thx
I see many scream to not do the Z rod holder. Interestingly enough, the kit from Creality for dual Z axis rods comes with a similar bracket at the top of the rod as well as one for the original Z rod. Granted, they have a roller bearing in them, but, the manufacturer is supplying these in their upgrade kit. Just saying. If the rods are aligned correctly during installation, I don’t see how they hurt, and they protect if someone grabs it wrong plus caps the top of the rod. Never had any luck with auto leveling nor direct drive extruder. Issues no matter what I did. The rest is cosmetic, which looks awesome, so lighten up “Francis”.
It doesn't matter if creality includes it in their kit or not, it's a part that can damage your leadscrew. If you have the dual Z kit you should leave that part out completely. Better yet, make the belted Z upgrade which will be much better than lead screws.
@@erikhellman3974 Can you please explain how capping the leadscrew can damage it? I went ahead and installed the set that came with the dual Z kit, and I have mine aligned so the rod has some free play within the cap. In other words, there’s no binding. I just don’t see the harm, and it certainly isn’t affecting the quality of my prints, but perhaps I’m missing something.
I t would be a really good thing to explain WHY this or this upgrade. Why the feet upper. Why the level. Etc By the way, the major part aren't upgrades but customizations '-'
The first upgrade is useless. The Ender 3 v2 comes with a drawer already. Why would you add more of them when you could just print dividers for the one that came with the printer? The grip is also questionable. If you want a handle, print a handle. You should never grab a printer by the inner part of the gantry. For the feet, if you're not printing them out of flexible filament, you're wasting your time replacing the stock ones. The most useful things you could upgrade the 3v2 for would be the stiffer sprints, the BL Touch or CR Touch sensors, PEI Build sheet and replace the stock firmware with the Jyers one. If you replace the screen for the touch one, you essentially have a CR SE.
Awesome video. I have just gotten an ender 3v2, and would like to make some of these... what filament are you using? I only have PLA at the mo, but I feel this may distort if used anywhere near the hot end.
Thaks for the video!!! But, guys, Can a hero upload the "Ender 3 Z-axis Stabilizer With Clip" to mega or github and share it with me? I tried to download the model in thingiverse but the file is corrupt!
I have printed a bunch of these files for my Ender 3 V2, but I am confused as to which vslot file to print as there are multiple, which one should I get? Thanks!
