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yeah, he really should have turned the holes 90 degrees, i think it might be because the file on thingiverse must have been made for the 3 but the 3 pro PSU has its holes different, just to be different i guess.
Isnt it bad to carry your printer from the cross bar at the top? Like how was shown here with the handle you can print. Isn't that just asking to throw it off of square?
I was thinking this. The cross bar is only for keeping the Z beams rigid and never intended to hold the weight of the hole machine. You should always pick up a printer from its base. Even then, printers like this (Ender/Prusa) That are just a frame and a base are verry much a set and forget type deal. Moving it from where it was built always has a chance of nocking something askew, and may require adjusting when replanted.
I printed 5 handles and everyone had issues until I did it with supports then I was sanding the 5th one and it broke the 6th one I made tonight really THREW my bed way off and I can NOT get it balanced now!! Any help???
Can someone help me I printed the tool box installed it and now a wheel screw under my bed hits the top of the box Can the screw be shortened or moved up?
I printed and installed a dual drawer for my ender,but my y axis wheel(under the bed) bumped into the surface of drawer when printing….I can’t figure out the reason?Is the file wrong?
My Enders 3 V2 has stopped lifting wallet prints after only two weeks. Can it be stepper motor is going bad already? I'm not abusing it. I've reached out to the manufacturer and so far been ignored. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Hey i recently got the ender-3 Pro, and whenever i try printing something, it starts from the side and then messes everything up, it does print properly. but when i print the project they gave (the one in the sd card from shiping) it print properly. Can you please tell me why this is happening? Thanks
@@engineericly It's awesome. It gives better retractions and prints Flexi filaments easy no issues, I have it with the all-metal hot end for micro swiss and the print quality is amazing it has improved in my opinion, for me at least it gave me better print quality better retraction, and the ability to print flex filament with the great quality I did a 20x20 cube and quality was awesome and every side was 20,00mm except for one which was 20,02mm.
i dont know if you noticed, but print quality is really bad, this printer has much more potential. You should ditch all "upgrades" and figure out what is causing problems, printer is good on its own.
@@themblue8236 this is not slicer problem, it is physical. Cura is nice as a first slicer but prusa has way more freedom + you can run custom code to produce even more tailored .gcode
@@filip8985 Not sure how well the air flow for the nozzle will do with PLA. It's pretty warm down there and mine warped before I even started printing. Just went back to stock. Everything else should be fine tho. ABS prints fine on the ender 3 but you should have good ventilation. Creality actually gives you a small amount for the sample prints on the USB flash card they provide.
Hi mate. I would like know how can you measurement exactly to get fit ( I measurement correctly but it was wrong size after I printed it out. Could you please share to me. Thanks mate
I’ve printed some upgrades for another printer on pla and they work great unless you try to print abs then I wouldn’t recommend but there also higher heat resistant pla so you can get that but I still wouldn’t try to print abs in an enclosure with them
Well, the times for the print can change if you change the slicer config, I printed the drawers with the 1 mm nozzle instead of the default 0.4 mm, so it took like half the time, but it is something you learn as you print.
@engineericly is the extruder already modified? i printed the knob but i cant stick it on since i dont have the piece of metal sticking out above the golden one
The best thing about these is makes your 3D printer look much cooler and makes it more functional. In addition, it's green, which is my favorite colour.
Anything near heat will melt or deform when printed with PLA. Your bed handle will break very quickly :p You should print stuff like that with PETG or ABS. All metal hotend, Trianglelab BMG extruder, Hydra Fan Duct (PETG or ABS) direct drive conversion and dual 5015 blower fans, yellow bed springs, springsteel sheet with PEI and belted Z mod. This will make the machine perfect. A reliable workhorse that prints the same as a prusa at half the price. (I have both). Also upgrading the mainboard to 32 bit so that you can have newer firmware with linear advance enabled is the biggest boost in print quality you can get
No its my dream printer ..... And creality cr 6 se too ❤️ and biqu b1❤️ .... Oh they all are so good 😳 still can't own one 😭😢 Btw why are you asking so? 😅
Just need to take the table off and flip the screws upside down (nuts on top and button heads on the bottom) if you don't want to print it again. There is a remix of the drawer with the screw notch too if you want to print it again.
that bed handle is so whack,, all its doing is creating more weight on the y axis, its actually a downgrade.. , i dont mean to be a hater, but you should be show casing mods that actually help the performance. not just things that look cool.
You whould add noctua fans and replace them. Replace the extruder cooler and replace the fans to silence the printer more. Get an all metal extruder to print with better filaments. Also use a direct drive for printing using tpu. Add belt tighteners and led lights. By the way . I love your videos
Great video,, I seen on thingyverse someone make a big character with the rail slots built into it so it can sit on top rail. Problem is the actual character will take 2 days to do. If I shrink the character down in height will the rail slots stay the same size?im a noob at this if not you know where I can look for others?thanks man
if you shrink the whole thing at once then the rails wont work, youll need to edit the file so only the character is smaller, or you could slice it so one print is just the rails at full size and the other slice is your character at reduce its size, then glue it on
see if you can make two copies of the file, where you “crop out” each shape. one with the railings and one with only the character. (i use tinkercad) and then shrink the character and line it back up with the railings again.
Hello beautiful your creations but I wanted to ask you if you have any intentions in the future to make your sculptures for the Snapmaker 2.0 Modular 3-in-1 3D Printers
The part cooling vent *looks* nice but the better question is does it work better. Teaching Tech did some tests and all that glitters isn't necessarily gold.
