My whole reason for buying a printer last week was to try and prototype something I've had in my head for a while. A catamaran/pontoon boat, with fold-down, triangular sides, which lock in to other triangular sides of other boats. It's to construct floating platforms which are perfectly stable, providing safe water crossing in disaster zones, large floating helipads etc. I'm as new to cad as 3D printing, so I've kitbashed some stl's and cobbled together enough parts to make a small flotilla. It's generally a good idea to have half of an idea before doing anything!
I really like how honest your videos are. Like you are not afraid to admit if a print of yours fail, but you also don't make a big thing out of it. I am not new to 3D printing, but I can imagine the vibe you give off would be really helpful. You don't feel like the "I am the expert and what I say is the ultimate way of doing this" kinda guy, but like one from the community who themself is learning together with their audience.
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now and have seen you go from a little shy and wordy, to master of your domain with top notch editing. I loved this video. You look like you are having so much fun! Keep it up. It's appreciated.
Those dungeon sticks are exactly what I'm looking for. I like to just draw my dungeons on white erase tiled boards, but sometimes the walls rub off. Being able to just quickly stick low walls together would be perfect.
Thank you Danny for reigniting that 3D interest. Powering up my Ender 3 now to start on this list. I’ve never heard of dungeon sticks. So that will be my first! 🤓 Appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge. Blessed be.
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I used the spiral dice tower for years, before the tab that attaches the tower to the base finally snapped. Make sure you set your infill to 100% when you make these small parts!
I love everything from this list. And i even saw stuff on the websites u gave us which I love so much! This is one of the few videos that gives me more hope with printing for DnD with FDM. Love it
I love TRPG culture, and Dice Games in general. I finally bought a 3D Printer, just this month actually, so I can supersize my Hero Forge Characters. Instead of paying $50 for a 2× Nylon Plastic that only stands 2 inches, I can print a 9 inch behemoth in superfine detail from the STL for just $7. I'll still save the cash for the new full color minis (I wouldn't have the time or money to afford all the individual Army Paints, or space to store it all otherwise, especially something so small in detail), but now if ever I want to relive the Joy of Painting, I can just put down a couple bucks for Folk Art or something, nothing too expensive, and the larger figurine will be easier to paint anyhow.
Sick, just getting into dnd and It’s so overwhelming. There’s so many products out there and some cost so much Its hard to decide which eye candy to pick or hard to justify price. Those dungeon sticks are gonna be my best bet ! I Don’t have a 3d printer but my local library does and they only charge you the cost of the material so I can definitely start my journey easier and faster than I thought with some table scatter terrain.
My first 3D print was a tiny lightsaber I had designed in my CAD class back during sophomore year of highschool. My god have my designs and prints gotten better!
These were my first foray into dungeon pieces. I knew from the start I didn't want to print tiles because I'd need so many, and assembly was going to be time intensive, and wasn't able to pre-assemble maps. Then I found these. Holy hell are they amazing. I can't give enough love to these and have been printing nearly everything I can find for them constantly. I can toss together an entire dungeon/encounter map or whatever I need in like a minute or less. I can take a bunch where I need to go, put them together in front of the players within moments (and they're always amazed at the process) and we're ready to go. What's great is there is a ton of variety in them as well... there's quite a few official base sets (cave, underwater cave, stone walls, mushroom cave, ruins, town, mine, etc.) with tons of remixes that add different themes (swamp, forest, curved ruins, etc.) that you can find almost anything you're looking for. It's incredibly satisfying to come across some random encounter and be able to toss these together along with some scatter in literally a minute and have a unique map to play on. It's like Dungeon Legos. And depending on how you paint them the variety goes off the charts. You can completely change the look and feel with just a single piece or two, mirroring an axis, and/or a different coat of paint. They're also small enough (most tend to be at half height) to be able to see over and not obscure minis or player vision. So they print incredibly quick. For a resin a printer, printing on a plate, can print several walls in just over an hour. My main complaint is different versions though. The stone and ruin pieces, with some remixes, use the 2nd version called "Starlink", which instead of a round peg (which you see in the video) uses an 8 sided star pattern to lock pieces together so things don't move around. These I've found tend to be a little problematic to print (especially with resin printers), and take more time to set up. However, there are some remixes that put some of these into the old 1st version style. There's a 3rd version, which I haven't had any experience with yet, that is quite a bit different and uses a slot system but looks great if they converted older versions to it. You can also find connecters that can connect any version to another with a simple really small piece in any configuration you need. So really, you can have a forest that blends into a multi-branching cave system, and when you come outside the cave you enter into a ruin. With everything interlocking, looks fantastic, and can set it up and almost the time you need to draw it. I just can't recommend these enough.
Danny! Great video. I'm buying a 3d printer soon and this is exactly what I needed to get up and running. Great to see you're doing so well. You were always a great guy. Cheers -Garth
Thank you so much. Fantastic content. This is exactly why I got a 3D printer in the first place and had no idea where to start. Keep up the great work!
Haha, I don't know how this happened, but I missed this video and just saw it for the first time now. Thank you for mentioning BriteMinis - sorry I'm 8 months (!) late!
The hardest question for me as a beginner in the adventure of 3D printing is "What the hell is the temperature high enough to make my prints _finally_ adhere to the printing bed, but not so high that it makes filament oozing all over the place?". Apart from that, I will definitely give that box and the ruined town a try, my nieces and nephews are always happy about new toys. I am not sure though if I will give those Orks a try, although I would love to, because right now I am having terrible problems with smaller structures like those figurines - the prints usually end up as spaghetti, no matter what I try.
For adhere to the bed, use Roby (hairspray) on the bed (take it out, put de hairspray and put it again, dont spay the bed with the hotend close, it will be a problem later)
before u make ur bed dirty: try to reajust the bed a bit tighter, but still perfectly level... and always check that bed and hotend are clean... if it still doesnt work, use hairspay or gluestick, but thats last resort
next to the list of prints, you should include the brand, type, and color of the filament you used. i for one would be greatly appreciative. good video. thanks boss.
The life counter. Ive printed it the way yo make it work is to have its center tube X and Y reduced to 97% and the same with the center locking pin. Also adding a dab of glue to both sides of the center tube if you dont intend to mismatch parts. And print the tube seperately from the other parts
great video! thanks so much for making this. i’m just getting started in the 3d printing world and your video gave me some great inspiration and the confidence to get started! will definitely be checking out more of your videos!
Amazing the things you can do with a sub 300 usd printer and some time (those 0.1mm prints are not fast). 20 years ago I was more into RPGs with minis and used to buy some lead minis which are blown away by these prints in detail and quality. Imagine with resin! Im tempted to buy a printer just for minis... but Im struggling to find some other uses besides that, and now I rather use more the "theater of the mind" with my players, less setup time and effort. But perhaps in a few years when my kid grows, who knows.
Did you smooth out most of these minis for the video? Or did they come off the printer looking that smooth? I've had a resin printer for about 8 months and looking to get an fdm. Mostly concerned about detail and quality. I have lost adventures volume 1 and I just backed your last campaign including a late pledge for volume two! (Hence why I'm thinking about fdm...)
Hey Jesse! I didn't smooth any of the minis. If you have a resin printer, I wouldn't even consider printing minis on an FDM to be honest. FDM printers are great for terrain, and I'd only use them for minis if I had no other choice these days. Hope that answers your question! And thank you for your support :)
Great List! What layer height did you print the spiral tower and the ruined town/house at? What's your preferred layer height for D&D terrain printed off your Ender 3v2?
@@3DPrintedTabletop Haha got it. Any specific post processing to reduce/hide the lines? I've printed a few pieces at 0.2 but the lines really bother (especially rock faces and wood texture) me so I'm thinking of sacrificing speed for finer layer height and print at 0.16mm-0.12mm. But it takes so goddamn long 😭
