I have a 2009 Tundra like yours but it’s blue and I love it. Nearly 249k miles. I’ve replaced the starter, left front and rear wheel bearings, parking brake cables, rear calipers, front struts, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods. Of course reg oil and filter changes. I want to keep it as long as I can!
Happy quarter million! A little more than I’ve had to do but nothing unexpected. I’m dreading the day my starter leaves me stranded but I know it’s part of the high mileage dues
I traded my 07 with 250k miles. Changed out the struts. And the starter went out on me in the middle of nowhere which was the only real negative. Otherwise bulletproof. I even had the original plugs in it. Never felt a loss of power or mileage. Took it into our local mechanic that takes care of my company trucks at 200 k miles and said do what needs to be done because I plan on keeping it for a while. He called me the next day and said he checked pretty much everything and even pulled a couple plugs and and they looked fine. $100 was my cost. Came into a little extra $ in 2020 decided to upgrade. Looked at the domestics and they were nice but reliability meant too much so I bought another Tundra. Going for 300k miles on this one.
Bought new 07 5.7 we still rolling every day 648,000 no oil leaks tiny power steering drip !!! Cheers ! One alternator two starters, never had a hose replaced yet. Did have to replace radiator the plastic cracked at 500,000.
2008 5.7 maxcab here ❤, got it 2 years ago and I still can't believe my eyes everytime I walk out at 5 a.m to wake her for work, sorry neighbors, but yes, that's a 5.7 🥰
When replacing important electrical parts like alternators, starters fuel pumps etc, on vehicles known for their reliability (like the tundra), i highly recommend using original toyota or oem parts. Outside of parts like brake pads/ rotors etc, parts store stuff tends to be junk.
I purchased my brand new Tundra in 2008 with a sprayed in bed liner. At 28,000 mile the truck experienced a crack in the passenger side exhaust manifold causing a leak (repaired under warranty). From there the truck experienced absolutely no problems and was flawless until the odometer reached 150,000 miles and was 12 years old. This is when the truck started experiencing a couple of serious and expensive problems. First the bed had rusted from underneath around 3 of 4 bed mounting points, completely through. I was unable to detect it at an earlier stage due to the bed liner covering up the problem. It cost me $3,500 to a restoration shop to remove the bed, fix the rust, have a new bed liner sprayed in and also had them sandblast the frame, spray the frame with an industrial grade rust inhibitor and then spray the frame with bed liner material. Though the frame didn’t exhibit any serious rust issues, I had this done as a precaution knowing that the Tundra’s had serious issues with frame rust. Note: I do not live in the rust belt. Secondly, at 154,000 miles, the secondary air injection failed. That was another $2,500. At 155,000 miles the fan clutch failed. I replaced the clutch myself at a cost of $140.00. Since then truck has been relatively repair free and currently has 181,000 miles on it. Everything else under the hood is still original other than the battery and cooling hoses of course. It still runs strong and rides great.
I’ve got 92k on my 2017 Tundra SR5 crew cab 4.6L. I’ve only had to replace the battery on it a couple of years ago. I use if on trips a lot and it’s my daily driver. I love my Tundra. I was a Chevy and F-150 owner. I’m staying with Toyota.
The best engine and truck in the world. I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra Crew Max with 113,000 miles. I’ve spent very little on maintenance on this truck. My favorite vehicle I’ve ever owned.
you only have 113 k miles. My Ford f150 was up to 280k when my tranny strated slipping 3wks ago. Up to this point in time I had axle done, alternator, radiator, etc but that year was one f the best years. Now many are complaining on how they are slacking again, esp with the 2018's and 2019s.
I bought a 2010 tundra exactly one year ago to this day. It had 98k miles on it. I lost my 01 in an accident (not my fault) and used the insurance money as a down payment for what was always my dream truck. Iv had to replace the secondary air pump, fuel vapor sensor and gas cap. All which cost around 400 total. Other than that, i can say with all certainty that this truck will be mine as long as i can help it. I still get giddy about it when im just driving to the store
2007 Tundra DC 5.7 SR5 W/Towing. 230K. Did some light performance mods and added leather. Have replaced starter, u joints, rear trans seal, driveshaft support bearing, speed sensors and a couple of plug changes/tune ups. Lots of brakes, lots of tires. Towed way more than I should have way faster than I should have and she's going as strong as day 1! What a great truck!!
Have an ‘18 with a 5.7 liter, rolled 35,000 miles today. Hope to get a few hundred thousand miles on it as well. It’s Al the perfect truck for me. 13.5mpg in the city and 15 on the highway, lifted on 34” tires.
Very good I barely did my 100k mile service myself barely any different than 4runners every bolt was fairly identical to the 4runner took me only only 2 days to do transmission was healthy don't need to change the gasket unless it's a severe leak the drain bolt magnet catches anything the filter doesn't as long as it's serviced correctly and within a good time frame It's only disappointment is low gas mileage but coming from a Crown Victoria it's way more the worth than my old Crown
214K on my 2007. No drive shaft issues (towed 10K a time or two), but I have repaired/replaced a heater core, a fuel pump, a radiator, the radio head unit (dials quit responding reliably), a couple lower door window rubber strips (CrewMax and very simple), HVAC blower motor (super simple $50). It does not burn or drip oil. I am pretty bad about scheduled maintenance. I don't do hardly anything remotely close to when due, or as scheduled. I do Mobil 1 about every 10-12K miles and that's about it honestly. I've owned a lot of Honda and Toyotas over the years, so I would be screwed if I ever went to one of the big 3 and treated a vehicle they way I have treated this one and my past vehicles.
Been having my '08 since new. Batteries,tires,gas. Always have done my own oil changes. That's it.!!! '04 Sequoia, same thing since new. Almost 450k amongst the two.
Mine is a baby. It's a 2012 CrewMax 5.7 4x4 with only 140,000 miles. It has upgraded suspension with 35" tires and goes through brakes pretty quickly, but that's about it. I think the TPMS sensor just went out, which would be the first item I'll have to repair that isn't wear and tear. I'm actually upgrading the suspension again. That's how much I trust the truck and how long I plan to keep it. It's still our road trip vehicle and it's done a couple cross country trips, most recently in 2021.
what is you fuel economy on 35's? I am planning to buy a used one with 150k-200k miles bc that is the cash in hand I have but some are lifted and I am cautious about that. After my lifted silverado years ago, I never wanted 35's ever again as a daily driver. Fuel costs weren't worth the look. Gas here is $5/gal
@@TheYoungerSemiOldMan Fuel economy isn't great, especially in the hills. I get about 10-11mpg on the street and about 13-15mpg on the highway. Note, however, I am a leadfoot. My wife gets +1-2mpg when she drives it.
The window sills seals are cheap off of Amazon/other places. Super easy to change - common thing for the Tundra. The seat. The plastic that goes around the seat where it is completely lose, if you unbolt the seat and lay it back, you’ll see where a screw pulled through the plastic, you can add a washer to it and it will stay in place better.
I have a 2015 Sequioa (Based on the 2nd gen Tundra) with 71K. I’m hoping it lasts, cause I recently drove a 2023 Tundra (for 3 weeks) and I was blown away at the quality, and not in a good way. The new stuff has really gone down hill IMHO. Made me appreciate what I have.
"they don't make 'em like they used to" ...I'm planning to stick with this generation after this one dies, but I am curious at how long the new gen will last. Interesting to hear on quality - I wonder if that spills into the new V6 setup
I have a 2014 SR single cab with the 8 foot bed. 5.7 liter and 4x4. Had it for a year and has 76000 miles. Love the truck, and haven’t seen another single cab. Very unique truck
I have a first Gen. My rear was soft and saying a bit at 200k. I put the 70 dollar auto zone over leaf spring helper springs and it tightened up nicely. Lifted the rear up around a half inch
Toyota's natural v6 and v8 vvti as well as t4 engines are arguably the best engines ever produced. All 3 can run 200,000 miles without any major issues. The V6 is more like 300,000 and V8 can go to 400,000. Few cars can last you a lifetime basically, 3 out of 5 will be toyotas. Snatched 2021 Tundra off road with sport package and navi in late 2020, for 45k, right after the prices took a hit becauee of covid and right before they balooned up to over 60k. Probably the best purchase I'll ever make. Last V8 version produced.
After scrolling through all the comments and including the repairs I've had on my 2008 5.7 TRD I've concluded that the following seem to be the most common complaints Secondary air pumps Starter Drive train vibration Water pump
Everything you pointed out in this video can be fixed, this vehicle is very fixable, simple and practical, when it is fixed, it would last you double the cycle of its worth 👍
I have a 07 5.7 Crewmax 4x4 that has been almost perfect. I have the same issues you have noted all the way to the radio vol button, the seat plastic coming loose although I still have the button adjustment. I'm pushing 300K (298K) air-pumps replaced under warranty (thank goodness because that would have been expensive) water pump/radiator, starter and alternator (the placement of that starter is absurd) has been the biggest repairs thus far. It's been a GREAT truck I live in the South and the AC even still blows really cold which is almost the most important item to me.... I'm spoiled with its reliability but starting to think it might be time to consider a new one. Really wish this 5.7 was still available ....
I'm surprised by the two alternators! I've got 200,000 on my 2000 RX and still have the original though I'm probably rolling on borrowed time. Great rigs, gotta love Toyotas!
I had a starter go out on my 2008. It was over $800 to have it replaced because you have to pull the exhaust manifold to get to the starter. So far that’s my only complaint about this truck.
My 1994 Buick century has 398k miles and has only ever had the alternator and starter replaced as well as all other basic maintenance parts. I’ve had it since it was at 50k miles
i’ve got 300k just charged the transmission engine still runs strong i’ll be making a video similar to yours because this truck definitely beats expectations
I have a 2021 tundra TRD pro, and the suspension on it is so soft. I guess the truck was make with off road suspension. But I got it because it sit 2 inch higher then the other models from the factory. But I end up adding a Road Master Active Suspension ( RAS ) it helps the suspension with tow and haul 40% more over stock.
@@TheIceColdGarage I have a 4.7V8 2003 4runner. Best ever was just over 17.5. I plan to get a Tundra again soon. I had a 2013 5.7 platinum but had to sell it during a divorce. Such an awesome truck (no issues for four years owned). I don't remember getting 17 on average though. I guess I am a bit of a lead foot. 🍺
Bought a 2008 Tundra with 201000 miles on it. Did my market research and decided it was worth the risk. The truck I bought had an incredible service history on Carfax. Air injection pump, water pump, and alternator were all previously replaced at similar miles. Plan is to keep servicing it every 5k and hopefully I can get another 100k out of it. Did you or have you done any service to the transmission? They only cost about 3k from the dealership, so still WAY cheaper than a new truck.
I did a transmission drain fill around 200k. The dealership had a really hard time finding a suggested mileage or time to do it at, but I found somewhere in the maintenance manual to drain fill (I think) every 120k or 60k if you’re towing/off-roading a lot.
No problem. Also, I just found the manual with the actual answer - it's every 60k for towing and there's no mention of normal condition drain/fill. Link below for the 07 manual which I'm sure is the same. Page 13. Interesting they call to replace only if you've been towing and don't have anything listed otherwise. I'll probably do mine again around 275 or 290k.
Definitely need new leaf springs. I did mine in my 04 Tacoma myself after 250K. Bought old man emu heavy duty springs online...extra leaf also had to put a bracket to pushy the tailpipe down an inch to clear the springs. Standard. Took a cpl hours. Raised my rear up about 3 inches, did bilstein shocks at the same time. Also did front struts as my wheel tended to wander and grab ruts. All in 1 strut assembly was far cheaper than get in g coils and shocks done separately. Did those myself as well. So stiff now, doesn't compress much when loaded. Before it would bottom out real easy. Drives way better. Front struts made a huge difference as well. Felt like brand new. But empty load it definitely bounces hard over speed bumps etc. better to have some weight in back
@@TheIceColdGarage it wasn't too hard but super key point is you have to use ratchet straps to secure the axle to the frame otherwise it will drift backwards. Once you take the leaf springs off and you'll never get it back in place manually. The ratchet straps can hold it from moving backwards you'll see the axle start separating on you. I saw Guy do it in the video and I didn't think it was going to be necessary, but it was very necessary. check out old man emu. They make a lot of Tacoma parts. I don't know if they make tundra leaf springs, super heavy duty and very affordable compared to factory.
Well you're lucky I have a 2012 tundra and I have had to repair almost $10,000 worth of failures. Rack and pinion went out $3500, and timing chain tensioner went out so I had to replace the whole timing chain system with the tensioners. $4500. Coolant leak on top of engine $1200. And I'm very strict on maintenance of all fluids. 230k miles
I’ve got an ‘08 with 126k. Bought it at 77k in 2017. I’ve replaced 2 starters, water pump, thermostat, 2 belts, battery, and the normal stuff like brakes, tires, filters. The starters are the worst.
Damn, I'm sold. Ive been heavily considering spending the extra couple grand for a second Gen tundra over the 07-13 Silverados I've also been looking at just because I've heard the reliability of the tundra is pretty legendary and parts seem reasonably cheap compared to the Ford's and dodges I've looked into also.
2011 Undra V-8 CrewMax 263K, 2 spiral cables, starter and I cleaned the throttle body this past weekend. I use a different injector cleaner about every 3 tank fulls.
I have a 2011 Tundra Crewmax with about 236k miles. A Firestone told me my rear main seal is barely leaking. But, that's like a $1,300 repair. Other than that the fan clutch was squeaking. So, I replaced that myself. I figured I'd use that opportunity to replace the serpentine belt. That cost less than $100 for everything. But, the biggest issue I've had was the fuel pump going out, then a few more reading incorrectly. The original gave out and let me run out of fuel. I dropped the fuel tank and replaced the pump; then, it just consistently read at zero. So, I returned it and got a third one. Now, it reads a lot less than the actual quantity, except when completely full. So, I've given up and just rely on the trip function on the dashboard. Overall, I absolutely love this truck. But, that fuel pump thing is annoying. Also, I wish I had a 6.5' bed and backseat that folded up. Ofher than that, it's near perfect.
Actually,your truck is doing remarkably well for the miles that has traveled,I have the same 2007 tundra and the air pumps went bad and unfortunately they were out of warranty so I got stuck with a 2700 bill.. other than that the only issue is a bit of vibration when take off …the mileage I’d 181000 so I guess is not bad so far
170k on mine. Replaced the struts at 150ish and put Monroe OESpectrum on the rear and Monroe quickstruts on the front and the Monroe's SUCK!!! They are super stiff. I bought the truck with 141k on it, and I think it had the driveshaft rebuilt at some point. The fan pulley just took a poop, so replaced all the pulleys including the tensioner pulley which was also found to be broken. So I'd say the pulleys need replacing every 150k or so based on what I've read and seen. The alternator problems I have found stem from getting fluid in them. The alternator is located low on this truck, so good posibility getting coolant from a leaky water pump or whatever is leaking. Otherwise, I haven't done anything on it in 30k miles other than the pulleys and shocks.
mine its 2010 tundra has 265, 000 miles on it. replaced started twice, and alternator. the gentleman at the bottom comment section is right, it is better to buy original parts when replacing stuff on a toyota. the auto zone crap is not good. maybe if you trying to sell it but not for yourself.
Indestructible trucks- well, apparently, except the alternator and water pump. But not the end of the world, especially alternators. Simple, quick and cheap to fix.
Engine will probably last longer without a K&N filter, they don't filter the finer particles like oem type filter. I used to use K&N until I saw a very simple demonstration. put a clean prepped filter over a clean white surface, then sprinkle some sand on them. Give them about 5 taps and you'll see how one lets sand and such grit thru while the oem does not.
I'm looking at picking up a 2011 tundra. Wanting to trade in my 2015 4runner.. Toyota V8s just run forever with very little maintenance. Cool truck man, and thanks for all the info. Short and sweet, and informative lol
Thanks - what are your thoughts on the 4runner? I had a '94 in the family growing up but I'm curious about the mid-teens like your '15. Not that I'll get rid of the truck but wondering how they rank in Toyota longevity.
@@TheIceColdGarage i will always prefer older toyota even now having a 5th gen. Runs and drives great, never left me stranded or stuck. no major repairs even. Just not my favorite power plant, and having several dogs the 4runner does lack a bit of cargo space. Unfortunately both tundras that I was interested in have sold within the last week haha. I think people are much better off buying a highlander/RAV for simple family activities or weekend adventures. Driving it now feels bigger than my landcruiser lol
2015 Tundra used and abused 130k with towing 8k rv. and or off road with ko2. only replaced water pump due lot weep decided to change belts, hoses, pulleys and tension w/ asian all toyota parts except the belt i think. aside from that basic maintenance spark plugs ,battery fluids sometime way over recommended but better late than never. Running String!
I bought my 08' new. I replaced those window seals, mine split apart. They're really easy to replace. The loose panels below the headlights are called extension panels. They push in and pull out of rubber grommets. The plastic gets brittle and breaks off. I replaced them as well, they're $46 bucks on Sparks Toyota. Keep an eye on your bed mount bolts where they mount to the frame. Toyota didn't seal that area properly and the bed floor rusts out on all four corners. There was a TSB for it. I had the rust removed and sprayed over those areas. My timing chain is noisy on cold starts and also need my tensioner and pulleys replaced but I really don't want to get into that
Nice! Thanks for the tips! The tensioner and idler pulley are relatively easy - could be a fix to belt squeals if you have some time on your hands. I’ll look into those seals though and thanks for the info on the extension panels
Driveshaft replacement at $590? Shit. What have I been doing all these years with Dodge? I have a 2013 Dodge Durango siting my driveway with 180,000 miles and the dealer said they wanted $6,000 (exactly what the vehicle is worth) to fix the driveshaft, steering rack and the power steering fluid leak. They said the driveshaft by itself would cost $2,500! The rest? Was the replacement of the steering rack and the power steering fluid leak. It's so clear I'll be buying a Toyota on my next new vehicle. No more fucking around with "American" made vehicles. I know dealers are expensive, but Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge just rips you off!
I’m with you on dealer ripoffs but that’s probably with Toyota too - I try to find independent Asian/Lexus/toyota specialty shops when I can. Crazy high on the dodge shaft though… just to clarify too that 590 was for rebuild/balance not full replacement
Love my 2008. Only negative was ABS pump and steering angle sensor. $2200. Covered as amendment on an insurance claim. Great truck, rescued from up north....under carport in the South now
just to ask, was that first alternator replaced with Toyota OEM? My guess is that it was not and that’s the reason for the second failure. I was surprised to see no Val springs on the list in 0708. They were apparently an issue.
My first Tundra was 07. Bed rusted thru right behind wheel wells. Toyota replaced entire truck bed/fenders assembly plus painted, etc. made me a happy customer so I bought a ‘14 Platinum. Surely after 7 years of dealing with rusted out beds Toyota would have fixed that problem? Nope. This time they wouldn’t replace the rusted bed. At next trade-in time I opted for an aluminum truck. Sorry.
Nice 👍🏻 I’ve got an 07 2wd sr5, pretty similar to yours, only about 143000, think I replaced tires more than anything. The standard shocks were not the best, we put Bilstien on it got a little better, 85000 the water pump under warranty. Secondary air pump about 6 months ago (135000) Those trim pieces for the windows, I replaced all at once, there’s a RU-vid video, Also the antenna mount, it’s harder than the windows, also videos help a lot
I have an 07 SR5 4x4 5.7 It's had very little maintenance other than oil changes etc I have 213k on mine. it had u-joints changed on the front drive shaft at some point according to records. I'm the 3rd owner the guy I purchased from needed a bigger truck owned it a year or so. The radio was shot when I got it had volume issues so replaced it with aftermarket. Previous owner replaced starter and a hub its still on original alternator and water pump. Things on my list are spark plugs, replacing breather hoses as they are starting to crack and radiator hoses. I've installed slotted rotors on the front which really help the truck stop I have them for the back just have not installed yet. I did have a knock sensor go out and it looks like my evaporator coil will need to be replaced not looking forward to that as the entire dash has to come out. Exterior wise clearcoat is coming off and could use a new rear bumper truck could use a new paint job. Overall not a bad truck I paid 10.5k for it and its only driven about 5k a year mainly from work and back and hauling when needed. Old truck that meets my needs.
I’ve got the 2002 V-6 SR-5. 200k miles. I’ve replaced batteries, brake pads, tires and the tailgate opener. It gets 19mpg in town. I plan on keeping it forever.
2007 4.7L the secondary air pump/valves failed at 135k miles which was replaced under warranty failed again which I than bypassed with a Hewitt kit alternator at 220k miles power steering pressure sensor at 255k miles
Meanwhile, my 07 Tundra is around 239k. And needs: A new wheel bearing, tie rod, ball joint, Shock pillows, Transmission seal gasket (plus inspection for wear. $$$), tpms module, possibly many other problems.
Great Vid, man hoping you answer these comments. I’m an original owner of a 07 limited TRD Tundra. Always dealer serviced and 128k miles and 0 mechanical issues. However I am getting a harmonic hum vibration right at 49-52 mph and feel it in floor and wheel. Toyota could not find anything wrong and said a bearing may be going out in front. Took it to a reputable shop and they took both front bearing off and found them to be just fine and said rear may be going out but to wait till it finally shows itself as an issue. Wondering how you found out your driveshaft needed new unjoint and balancing. Maybe that’s my issue. Thanks much. I literally cannot part with this truck and has never let me down.
I took it to an independent toyota Lexus shop and told them what was going on and what I thought it might be. They charged a diagnostic but figured it out next day and put the fee towards the total cost. I mostly noticed mine by feeling a vibration and hearing the noise letting off the gas in the 45-55 range.
Man I love this video I have a 11 tundra and 136k miles I have no idea what kind of maintence has been done to it and have been looking on where to start
Nice. I was lucky to have the records when I bought this one. I’d say just do it all in one round and start the clock over. I’m pretty sure they call for trans drain/fill at 120k for standard use. Difs I think are 60k for fluid replacement, 120k spark plugs, and then your normal coolant, steering and brake fluid swaps. Dif fluid is probably easiest of those.
I just hit 175K on my 2008 Thundra. My driver seat and the panel underneat the lights look like yours. The first thing i have had to change out was the water pump this week.
I still need to get to it but someone here commented and said the panel is just missing a screw - doesn’t help with the handles but would help keep it in place Sorry to hear about the water pump
