Hi Harry, Well picked as usual, as you said the bevelled key pins do allow over setting, but also the thin top and bottom of the spools means they only have to be just eased over the shearline. It's easy to over set the spools due to these thin ends - most spools have wider ends on them. We have also found the two "anti drill" pins to be soft - might as well put two cut down nails in the holes! Lockwood is aware of the problem. Regards, Brian.
Your posts always get me thinking, and you are on to something with the thin edges. It may be that I'm so used to pushing beyond thick spool rims that I'm unconsciously doing that on this lock and it's leading to oversets. I'll have to revisit this lock with that in mind. Thank you. Interesting note about the anti-drill pins. That's a HUGE problem. With the plastic shutters, does that mean that there is NO drill protection? Even that bottom retainer plate was pretty thin compared to comparable locks. It seems to me that this lock could be significantly improved by replacing that whole shutter mechanism with a nice thick hardened steel spinner.
You said you over set pin 3... How did you tell and how did you bring it back down? I can be a little heavy handed at times, so always interested in technique :-)
Check out my video #99... I explain how I check for oversets. Almost unconsciously, I do an abbreviated version of that after every pin I pick. Also, sometimes you can feel the overset at it happens... it's no so much that there's a particular feeling for oversets as much as something just feels wrong... and given where I am in the stroke, its probably an overset. I can't explain it better than that.
Very well done Sir! The way you positioned the tension wrenches, exactly what I was *attempting to convey in a previous post haha! Brilliant work and comprehensive explanation! You make it look sooooo easy, I obviously need more practice ;) Great motivation looking at mine right now, thanks for the insight, great picking!
Thanks for all the info on these locks. It's actually possible to pick them without the wiper insert, but it was noticeably harder. Good luck slaying yours soon!
I'll hang a wrench at the botkw just to rest my pick on that instead of core. If it's holding a shitter open, two thumbs up. Although it is very hard to pick with two thumbs up. Ya I go stupid around nap time.
Nicely done! A beautiful lock. Way out of my budget but I like it a lot. Funny, I'm so used to those shallow spools and tapers that I could actually hear/sense it when you over-set. :) Light tension together with slow and light pick pressure seems to be the ticket for me. Not sure how much that spring pressure would change things for me though.
Thanks -- I could definitely use some more experience on these pins. As you could see, there's definitely room for improvement! I'll give your method a try.
LOL. Yes, my decision to hold all padlocks in my hand while picking (as opposed to using the vice) in the name of added realism is being protested strongly by the tendons in my forearm!
It is a spring steel roll pin. You need a punch to knock it out with a hammer. I have special punches that are designed to insert and remove roll pins without damaging them (particularly when reinserting). If you do not have a roll pin starter punch to put it back in, be sure to use a brass hammer, or there is a good chance you will destroy it.
Aha! Thank you for that. So glad I waited for some informed advice. Really don't want hurt the lock in any way. I do have a dead blow hammer (one end hardened plastic and the other brass) which may work for reinsertion. Much appreciated.
Thanks. Never heard of surgard. When you can rake, but not SPP on a Chinese lock, that often is a sign of indistinct shear lines caused by rounded over or tapered driver pins. Try increasing your tension. Good luck.
LockPickingLawyer how to you rate the Lockwood twin? Would you rate its pick resistance higher than say a mul t lock interactive+ or mt5+ . Was thinking of the twin as my next purchase. Thanks in advance
chefgav1 It's hard to say... I have tons of experience on MTL's but only one Lockwood twin under my belt (and that was a while ago). That makes it really hard to compare. I remember being impressed with the tolerances of the lock and the resulting difficulty of the normal spool pins. I also remember being less impressed with the difficulty of the sliders. I'd guess that if I had the same amount of experience on the lockwoods as I do on MTL's, I'd be opening them with some regularity.
LockPickingLawyer thanks for that.The Lockwood twin looks like a scaled down version of the Assa twin and primus. Would like to watch you do a primus gut and open.
chefgav1 The slider false gates on the Lockwood are much shallower than on an ASSA twin. That difference massively affects pick resistance. As for the primus, the sidebar mechanisms don't share much in common.
I'd like to see that also! I know the lock well. I have a few of them, and I've spent more hours than I care to admit on them. I have a handful of opens, but I am very far from anything resembling consistency. If I had one with crappy bitting, I suspect I could open it in a reasonable amount of time, but all of mine have demon bitting (a product of bilocks having no MACS).
![[255] HUGE Lockwood 270S70 Padlock Picked and Gutted](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
