See I was just gonna turbo my 2011 VX40 Camry but now I really wanna do this..... BTW it's an EB62 6 Speed manual, basically a Scion TC in a camry body with a taller 5th&6th gear
@@vette215 It actually has taller 4th, 5th AND 6th gears! I was thinking of swapping over but after looking into the math for RPM ranges it's personally still not what I'm looking for but it would be cheap and better at making my highway driving slightly more efficient.
Came over here from G&G because I saw the MR2 video and you do incredible work. Wanted to support what you do because it’s great and it looks like you’re having a ton of fun doing it
Just came over from there as well. I had no idea these engines were so capable. Thanks for all of your knowledge when it comes to these motors. So much for not modding my TC2... 😅
My theory is that the 2GR 3.5 was intended to be the next 2JZ and the 2AR was a k24 fighter. I could see Toyota planning a v6 Supra back when designing the 2GR -back then EVERYONE was going to v6’s but now the inlines are coming back which is great, but I love my 2GR.
Yeah it is, this motor has dual VVT-I with 45 degrees of motion on each cam so the motor can go from about 10 degrees of valve overlap all the way to 100 degrees of valve overlap. It really allows it to shine at most RPM even with stupid big cams like i have in here.
When it's time to learn about headwork, I highly recommend learning from/researching David Vizard's work. As a car enthusiast (who admittedly has never built an engine, yet) everything he says makes sense to me AND he has the accolades to back it up. Really wish I still had a tC to put one of these bad boys in.
If/when I get another MR2 project, it is definitely getting a 2AR. What a mighty engine Toyota developed! Your R&D to further increase its output is amazing
I remember when you tested the 2ARFXE with the same two stock cams for intake and exhaust you were disappointed with the results. Sounds like you could easily get the results you hoped for using this intake. I’d love to see another 2ARFXE test using this intake? Thanks for all the research and engineering you do for the MR2 community!
Thanks for the reminder on this, not sure why i did not think about it but that's absolutely true that it needs to be tested. If that makes the same +30whp it would be a dirt cheap weapon of a motor.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Isn't the 2.7L power curve at 6:10 actually the double intake cam 2ARFXE? It made 228 whp SAE and you show 232 whp STD here, while the 2.7L with 280 regrinds made 241 SAE (STD would be more). The May 6 test date also matches the May 8 video date for the FXE. I'm also very excited to see what the all OE parts engine can do with the short runner intake manifold. Are all tests thus far on pump gas?
Ports are massive for a factory engine. Ive been saying all along, the same principles used in high performance motors: big cams, big ports with a good flowing head, good oil system, fully counter weighted crank. It applies to economy engines as well. The only real difference is the materials used. They probably were squaring it up against the K series. Lead the way, be the guy who pioneers the performance for this engine
I’ve got a 2010 Camry that has the 2ar fe and who knew these things were super capable. I had a feeling but no idea they could smack 270 hp 👀 I appreciate the time you’ve taken to delve into this motor you’ve helped a ton.
It really is interesting to see the insides of how Toyota developed the AR with those insanely big for stock intake ports and valves. I wonder if the same technology/techniques were applied throughout that engine generation such as with the GR, ZR, and UR engines?
i can't speak to the ZR and UR engines but the GR has big ports but not quite as big as the AR. the GR and AR do have a lot on common but i think they both have small advantages over the other depending on where you look
@@FrankensteinMotorworks what would be the advantage of the 2gr over this? Seems like the AR can reach similar numbers NA and is easier to work on and cram in that bay
@@turnerablesGR is up to 400whp na. There really is no replacement for displacement... But you've gotta weigh complexity and, well, weight against a 4cyl. The 1/2AR is an incredible performer.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I got all the notifications on. I've seen plenty of K24 swapped mr2s but what you're doing is much more interesting. I have an idea for a perfect swap but I don't want to put that on here because people will copy it before I can afford to do it
I guarantee you this engine was originally designed to not only go into normies cars but whatever the FT86 project would be IF Subaru said no. Not that Subaru could say no when Toyota bought a giant stake in them, but you have to have a back up. But the issue was, they couldn't make a bespoke engine for a sports car and still make it cost effective with such limited runs. The engine went into production literally MONTHS before the FT86 concept was shown off. But none of these plans panned out and so this is what we got. I'm pretty sure since the mid 2000's Toyota had intentions to revive their sports car line up, but didn't have a cost effective solution. But, collabs we're the more cost effective solution, and now we have a BMW Supra and a Subaru AE86. Rumors of a new MR2 have been flying around since ever and by the time 2020 came around...emissions regulations were so different than this engine literally died being just a Camry motor. It was one of those corporate decisions to hedge their bets on having a motor just in case and it just didn't pan out. I mean...now we have the 3cyl 1.6t motor that makes 300hp and people think that's a lot. Well...it's not, tuners say stock it can go up to 500hp, imagine, this is all an evolution of the AR series of engines slowly morphing into the A20/A25/T20/T24 series of motors. Literally what you said! I mean look at the gains from the 2AR to the A25, about 10% thermal efficiency gain over all with higher compression, revised intake and exhaust, and electronic intake timing and GDI. Not a whole lot changed for such gains. If thinking about this logically, if Toyota used the same ideas to make a new 2.0 turbo based of the 1.6...they could make 350+ STOCK to the wheels. Sometimes Toyota scares me. They have all of this just sitting there waiting to make more power at a moments notice...IF they ever need it.
That's not a bad guess. we don't have any way to know for sure but the timeline seems to agree. And yes, many of Toyota's motors are serious monsters waiting to be unleashed. The newer 2GR-FKS and A25A look like they lost a bit of that but thankfully it's not like the ones from the great generation of Toyota motors are rare.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Thank you so much. Do you think similar gains could be had with a speed density standalone? My understanding is a MAF is best, but I already have the speed density ECU that speaks BEAN. I'd hate to sell it for cheaper than I bought it to go back to MAF, considering how much it cost me.
@@hamsterbrigade Yes, you can make the same amount of power with speed density as you can with MAF. The advantage to MAF is how it handles all of the volumetric efficiency differences that happen on a motor like this when you transition from one state to another at a different speed than you did when you tuned it on the dyno. If tuned properly it will always result in things being richer so it is not generally dangerous for the motor but it can cost horsepower, sometimes quite a bit. The other big advantage is just how easy it makes the tuning.
On the street it's honestly a bit much :) it still has plenty of down low power so it isn't non streetable but when you get to the busy end of the chart it really starts feeling like a hell of a lot is going on rather quickly
I'm sure it has a lot of potential, most of what i'm doing here can be done as one-offs, they just take a bit of time to get done. It's just that i'm not dealing with any cars where the NZ family makes much sense.
There are a few places in other countries that build and produce parts for the NZ. You could always do the tried and true 1nzfxe and jun cams. Usually 150+hp out of that setup
@@connorbabcock8197 I actually have everything to do a 2ZR-FE swap into my Yaris except for the engine harness out of a Scion xD. Im curious if you can put FE cams in a 2ZR-FXE like the video as the FXE is intake VVT-i only whereas the FE/FAE is dual VVT-i same as the 2AR.
Well Done! Another little trick is to move the injectors (or perhaps direct injectors at ~150 bar?) to the mouth of the intake bell, higher pressure, better atomization, more surface area = cooler intake charge Thanks again for this.
No if di you leave di and run extra port injectors using something like a split second controller. Most have a tb spacer setup for 2 injectors to 4 meth ports. Otherwise 4 extra on each port. Which is best to keep valves clean on a di engine.
@@justanotheroglesby2847 I'm trying to make the smallest droplets, with the greatest surface area possible, getting the intake charge as cool as possible. Fuel droplets from DI injectors are orders of magnitude smaller - not worried about keeping the valves clean - worried about making the intake charge as dense as possible with the least amount of puddling.
The stock injectors are actually really fine atomizing. I am currently using the 545cc version from the 5th gen 3s-gte which has the same spray pattern as the stock 2AR injectors. videos like this do show there is an advantage to it (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u_E14RKskbM.html) but it's a pretty small advantage. At the moment i will not be doing this but as i raise the revs more and more it may become a thing.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Absolutely. I'm working with a much more archaic design - just trying to get the coolest, densest intake charge I can. And that takes time and maximizing surface area of the liquid... hence, injector location and obsession with smaller drops. Luckily, I have vertical intakes, not horizontal. BTW, great video
Only issue is the packaging on the 2AR, from my understanding, they’re impossible to work on without dropping the subframe, especially on TC and Corolla XRS.
More incredible results. I really want to build a 2AR W30 for Gridlife Club TR. Did you see Gears & Gasoline is starting an FXE swap in tall Ben's MR2?
Why hasn’t anyone done this on a lotus? Imagine racing in a na 4 cylinder category with a car that weighs nothing and puts out 300whp. Nuts. Also this sounds amazing for a 4banger
Honestly, it would be weirder if it wasn't. This motor is about a decade newer design than the K series. A lot of things have been figured out in that decade.
Amazing work as always! Just to confirm the setup making 270whp is a camry/tC/rav4 10.4 comp ratio FE? Or is it the converted FXE engine with the higher compression bottom end?
From his listing on the website, this is with the 10.4 CR 2ARFE. He also mentions custom 12:1 pistons to be the next step for that engine, in the video.
I've always been a GM V8 guy but recently I bought a 2014 RAV4 Limited with AWD. I just wanted to see what kind of performance potential these little engines have. Any info learned from your experience is greatly appreciated.
I always suggested the new next gen motors have nothing on this Monster. The more you play the more you have to agree that this is the last of the All out L4 engines from Toyota. Technically this engine is better than the later Mitsubishi, Honda and all other L4 big capacity engines even Chevy 2.9L is not as strong or carefully designed as this Gem. For me the target was the K series engine but the beancounters stepped in as usual for Toyota. This engine is the 2jz and 1uzfe of Toyota 4 cylinders and even though the toy S engine was a goodie this is the one Toyota would have even used for the Supra had not the BMW partnership happened. A 400hp turbo 1ARGTE MR-2GTZ for 70-80k USD would have Porsche dribbling from the rear and Lotus would become extinct overnight. As a side note, would love to see crate motors while still available and even supply them as a boat motor or kit car developer as an alternative to the K series.
Waitaminit… 8k rpm with a big ol’ 2.5L, stock crank, rods and pistons, bro?! Are these forged from the factory or what? This is almost hard to believe, if it weren’t for your video proof. I mean, most engines now have weak con rods and paper thin pistons… this is a great engine disguised as a base “don’t look at me” engine. Since you mentioned it, do you know the rod/stroke ratio? That torque curve is beautiful, too! K24 swap where? What K24?
You should try and build a long runner intake manifold to get the 2nd wave harmonic effect aim between 8 to 9.5k rpm you should be able to gain another 20whp
yup, that's honestly where I thought I'd be going with this. These current runners are as long as possible to fit in the chassis without getting extra complicated with the design. They actually should peak at around 9000rpm based on their length. But even that 9000 is the 3rd harmonic, not the 2nd. to bring it down to 8000rpm and the 2nd harmonic i would need to add about 8" of runner length. The math shows it would help for sure but it does not matter if it does not package in the engine bay. That said, if you were to use this with a 3" spacer between the velocity stack and the head it would be a better match with these cams. There may be a solid 10hp in it and i will certainly try it at some point if i have access to an engine dyno and i don't have to worry about engine bay space limitations.
@@stephenwever the runners inside the head are actually quite long, probably because of that tumble valve again and the sense of scale may not be communicated because everything on this motor is a bit bigger than a normal 4 cylinder. If you look up pictures of the 2AR in an MR2 Spyder engine bay vs the stock 1zz the size difference may make more sense to you. but the overall point is not wrong, i do think this engine would benefit from a bit longer runner than i have here. but this feels like it can be achieved with a spacer between this manifold and the actual head for the people that have the available space.
I have a lot of different bits that may or may not be appropriate for every build. I know it's a bit of a pain to know exactly what to order but reach out via the contact on the webpage and I'll be happy to walk you through exactly what you need to meet your goals. If you'd rather just see a guide and go at it that way you can check this out: frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/2ar-mkiii-shopping-list
Everything you're questioning about wtf Toyota was doing when they made this, I said about the 1az/2azfe/2azfxe. You are slowly convincing me to go this route instead, but I really wanted the 2.0L crank for the 1.7 rod ratio build I had planned. 🤔
@@FrankensteinMotorworks watching your video... This engine just looks like an updated 2az. If the 1az crank bolts in I would sh*t bricks.. What sold me on the 2.0 crank and 1.7 rod ratio was the reduced stress on the piston at higher engine speeds and wanting to build a fwd wrc kitcar themed setup. I absolutely do not need/want too much low end torque. All I want is to hear a younger gen Toyota motor at 10k+rpm. I liked the AZ oil pump also, 1:1 ratio with the crank vs the honda's pump which spins faster than the crank. This setup uses a pump in the timing cover like the 2zz? I had it all planned out. 2az block and 2azfxe pistons, 5gr rods(longer to make up for difference in piston compression height), 1az crank, bc cams/valve train, 3sg lightweight flywheel/clutch. And find out how high it would rev till it broke. The missing link was proper gearing since the 3sge gearbox is the only one I'm familiar with that is a direct bolt up. 🤔
@@FrankensteinMotorworks just dug my files up, the 1az is 1.74 , and my spec would have brought it to 1.79. imagine the 2ar with an 87mm stroke and custom rods to make up for the de-stroke. formula one territory? xD
@@Ricerguy The 2AZ engine has a 4mm smaller bore so it's very unlikely that the crankshaft would fit in the 2AR. That said, the 8AR-FTS crank is 86mm and that has a decent chance of fitting. That would give you a 2.2L displacement with a 1.92 rod ratio if you calculate it with the stock 165mm rod but with that shorter crank throw you would really want a longer conrod because your pistons would otherwise have a really tall compression height and would weigh more than would be ideal. You would want about a 174mm rod which would give you a 2.02 rod ratio.
I do eventually want to develop turbo parts but there's only one of me here so i can only do so many projects at the same time and NA power is the first target. Because NA power helps make for a much better turbo build.
Have you tried using an anti reversion chamber at the header collector or within 12", might get you some more low end and midrange power as well as response. I've got a 3" Dynatech/Hendren Racing in stainless steel (3'' in/out, and the reversion chamber tapers to 2.5" inside") I could send it to you if you'd like for testing. Might see some gains with the big cams you are using. I imagine even with VVTI functionality/control, there is still some reversion during overlap. Let me know what you think. Great videos and keeping the 2AR-FE mods alive! I also had a couple questions and mod ideas i'd like to discuss with you via email, IG, or FB messenger.
So you're not wrong. This motor has a lot of overlap and wants to flow backwards so badly at low RPMs that i really had to work at it with the VVT-I to tune it out of there. Thankfully the VVT-I does let me do that but there likely is quite a bit of power available. I'm actually working on a stepped header design with a larger diameter since i'm pretty sure i've exceeded the capabilities of this one. This original one was designed for the 200rwhp motor I started with and now i'm at 270rwhp. It's still been doing pretty good but it's time to update it. As for questions and ideas, the best place is the Discord server ( discord.gg/XrQ8p8qJ ) but you can also reach out to me via e-mail. The info is on my website which is linked in the description.
I do have a facebook page and an instagram page but a lot of the in-between videos time is filled with discussions on my Discord server ( discord.gg/zpj6e63s ) Feel free to join if you'd like.
Generally the first number in the engine name is just a serial number of the order they were designed in so the 1AR was almost guaranteed to be the original design. This also shows up in the 165mm conrod that gives it a 1.57 rod ratio on a 105mm stroke but then on the 2ar it has a 1.70 rod ratio which is pretty damn shocking with a 97mm stroke. Combined with the 10mm offset crank this thing ends up being quite knock resistant. Toyota really must have had a big plan with this motor because this thing really isn't just an economy car motor.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks agreed. The reason I mentioned what I did bc was back when GM still built the L98 350 TPI engine John Lingenfelter did some digging and found out the TPI intake manifold, although used on both the 305 and 350 engines, was actually sized for the smaller 305. He designed hi own and picked up 45 hp on the top end. The 350just couldn't breath at high rpm. My thought was maybe this huge port head was actually engineered for the larger 2.7 displacement where it wouldn't have been such overkill then just used it for both. Or your theory is right and they had bigger plans that just never came to fruition.
I recently got a 2011 Camry with this engine and I love it. I did a few things to it and g et compliments everywhere I go now. I'm DYING to make more power (and maybe even a sleeper).
If you change out piston rings redo gaskets and arp studs head and possibly oem rods with arp bolts cometic head gasket and block sleeve or css block how much power could this motor hold reliably obviously tune is a big part of it
Me and my co-driver have started looking into this alittle further for SSM class, scca autocross. From what I can see the 2ar, stock, weighs about 60lbs less than a stock 2gr? The 2gr would require a heavier overall car weight in the end(per class rules for displacement),, but not sure it would be very far off a forced induction 4cyl weight for the class. The winning car atm is a 1.8L turbo miata
Have you noticed the Hybrid engine version e.g. 2ar-fxe inlet manifold does not have the swirl flaps or the variable 2 way intake runners? I've just ordered some bits of you to go to the UK, looking forwards to seeing your stuff, and thanks for all the info and hard work.
Thank you for placing an order, i'll get it out the door soon. As for the 2AR-FXE's intake it is a lot smaller with a smaller throttle body. It also lacks the tumble valves. The tumble valve is useless for making horsepower so that's not an issue. If you look around you'll find that they made a 2AR-FE intake without a tumble valve also.
Which engine you recommend 2ar-fe or 2ar-fxe? Maybe boost in the future. It possible to boost 2ar-fxe with that high compression too? I hope you can compare a boosted to all motor 250hp would be something nice to see. I just want a track car I can drive home after.
the 2ar-fxe has a 12.5:1 compression which is great for an NA build but really is excessive for a turbo build unless you're planning on running methanol and even then you would not want a bunch of boost going in. If you're planning on boosting i would strongly suggest going with the 2AR-FE. That said, a lot of people say they will eventually boost and never do so you're throwing away power that you could otherwise have. I would generally suggest you build for the motor you'll be using now and build the motor you'll be using later when later comes around.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks yes that makes good sense. I don't wanna blow up an engine...😂 in your opinion what the best way to go engine wise fe or fxe to start out with? I hope you can compare Toyota 2ar-fe vs kswap in the future heads up challenge.
@@rolldog82 the 2AR-FXE is a great base for a low cost engine build but if you're going for the ultimate build you'll end up replacing the parts that make the FXE special anyways so it mostly depends on your budget and your ultimate power goal. Assuming your intention is to keep the 2AR-FXE's intake cam and pistons your power limit on this motor is probably in the 270-280whp range. This number isn't 100% sure because the new intake hasn't been tested on the FXE engine yet along with E85.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks keep on posted on your projects both on fe and fxe. The engine platform has much more potential than kswap it seems . Hopefully gonna buy a spydy soon with a 2zzz swap in it. 2.5 compare to 1.8 can not help but spend the money for the swap it be well worth it even all motor set up but I do love turbo cars
What can you tell us about the throttle body you used? 90 mm drive by wire set up? In the future I would look to use this intake on my Scion TC but I’m thinking I would need a 90 degree adapter for the throttle body to point up and likely downsize to stock 65 mm which I got bored to 68 mm.
Wow! So grateful to have found your channel, I been devouring your content last few days. I had a question regarding the cheaper hybrid variant and this intake. Do you recommend this with a hybrid to high performance conversion? Also if i purchased the things required for this from you can i still use stock ecu to keep it all controlled? My goal is a high hp n/a daily driver with spirited canyon driving. I look forward to your insights.
@@jacknapier2099 I don't have a one click buy for these engines but you can reach out to me and we can discuss it. But note that there's a lot of things you can skip on a DIY build that can't be skipped on a build where someone needs to provide some kind of warranty. This means the block needs to be opened up and fully checked and that does really remove the low cost advantage of the double atkinson style build.
There are RWD transmissions that can mostly bolt up to this engine (starter mounting issues are still there) but you're absolutely right that a good RWD adapter would be fantastic.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks not that trans adapters are super difficult. Wonder if a taco 5 speed could be crammed in. The motors look mega tall, I need to do some measuring and see where it's at. Already running a standalone so why not. Also stock torsen could handle that motors torque, so custom driveshaft mostly, everything else would be ok
Great work. I am feeling more convinced to go to this for an autox build in my alltrac. I am curious how much weight could be saved off the front end with this 2ar over a 3sgte.
The 2AR is a very significant savings over the 3s-gte, it's an aluminum block instead of an iron block. The exact savings will vary a bit from engine to engine because the turbo system is also a lot of weight. Expect about a 100lb savings or a bit more.
To achieve your desired 12.5:1 compression with the 1AR crank, will you be using shorter custom rods to use the OEM pistons, or normal aftermarket/OEM rods with custom pistons? Also, that bump in torque at about 3500 seems interesting, I wonder what kinda wonky resonance is going on there.
the bump at 3500 is just because i did not tune down low too much. that could be smoothed out by a fair bit but i don't want to do it until i have the final version of the product.
Hello Mr. How are you? I am texting from Panama, and I’ve been looking for a 2AR-FE tuner and builder. I recently damaged my 2AR-FE because the internal oil collector went tapped since the camshaft counter balancer (idk actual name) wear too fast and debris came in the engine. I damaged the camshaft and some 2 cilinders. 2AR-FE is not a popular tuner engine in Panama so, I don’t have a lot of information. I own a scion tC (automatic) I already have improvements that have been made to the auto trans and my car was previously remapped (4 years ago) Now, since the big damage have occurred, I am looking for ideas to upgrade my engine like, changing pistons, more agressive cams, new camshaft (improved if possible) and other zmods that can hace a positive effect on horsepower (i want to gain as more as possible) I would like to keep in touch with you to get some ideas!
On fuel I’d start with race fuel with e mix. Btw I saw your around Indy. I’m just down in Evansville. I was looking at this 2.3 eco boost I have sitting here to put in my spyder this winter.
I'm at about 70% injector duty cycle. THis is the 2.5L, 2.4L is the previous generation. The 2.7L 1AR-FE engine is the exact same block and head, it will fit just fine.
You should put a 2ar head on a flow bench. I'm still not convinced it being as potent as a k. If I can get convinced I'd buy 2 of your swap kits. Stock 08 k24a2 bottom end, stock port k20z3 head, Skunk intake and drag cartel 2.2 cams I'm at 271whp 200wtq
I do have flow numbers for the stock as well as the ported head that i've done and i was able to see some nice improvements across the board but you really can't compare flow numbers from one bench to another. They are available publicly if you'd like to see them on my facebook page: facebook.com/FrankensteinMotorworksLLC/posts/pfbid02i3F4T3zh2BZRgXjZzhgAFJt9RyC46nUdjsTxYLmiXKeptaKqieX8iGKw99mSkp63l if you don't have facebook just send me an e-mail and i'm happy to send it to you that way.
@@Truulovemotorsports unfortunately i do not have the answer. that was done by a local shop and i was just trying to get a comparison pre and post porting so i was only worried about consistency from test to test.
In your head, what would be the cost of making 270hp on 2ar? The reason i ask is recently dunot media made a k20a type r engine and costed 10k just to make 210hp, not sure if they made that conservative power. But spending 10k just to make 210hp is a little absurd in my opinion. 9:04
It's about $3500 in upgrades to the engine and the engine is available for $300 easily so under $4000 in the engine. You'll also need an engine controller i'm not sure if that was included in their budget or not but that would add another $1600 or so. So if your starting point is no engine and no computer you can get to a 270whp 2AR-FE for about $5500. If you want to add about $1000 in pistons on top of that and run it on E85 you can easily bring that number to over 300whp. The fact that you don't need any head work or ITBs brings the cost way down.
Great work! I think Toyota likes to make hidden gems often. My 2013 camry 2.5L auto, low miles, clean and well taken care of. I have some concerns with doing any upgrades at all to it mostly due to my ability to adjust (or the lack of) the transmission shift points. This trans tune / throttle map is so… over reactive and over sensitive that if there was a 300hp engine im sure it would be damaged. It never lets the engine make tq and it over downshifts every time. Once you find the tq it then upshifts too soon and too many gears (6th at 25 mph?!) and you loose any and all usable power. Im very unhappy with this car as you can see how I’m fighting the TPS non stop to and from work each day. Would you sell it or should I start with a remap tune? Thanks in advance if you have time to get to this question. If not, i understand and still love your videos and your products look amazing. (Also i have 0 issues with my wife’s 2grfe w/6sp auto) also the camry drives much better with a full tank, 4 large adults and a trunk with 200-300lbs of tools)
I 100% agree that the throttle map is oversensitive. I searched for years to try and figure out how to soften that response and in the end i ended up solving it mechanically by making a pedal with a longer throw but that really isn't a valid solution for someone using these engines in the stock application. It's possible that i haven't been able to do it because when the automatic transmission is deleted it goes into some kind of throttle mode where it does not respect the maps but it does not change the fact that i have no idea how to change it in the ECU because nothing i tried has worked. That said, there are several aftermarket throttle pedal mapping modules that should be able to work by intercepting the signals but i do not have any experience to point you towards a specific one. I genuinely don't know how we got here, today's automatics may be reliable and last a long time but damnit they are mapped in seriously irritating ways. I don't understand how this hasn't driven a significantly larger demand for manual transmissions.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks thank you for your reply!! This is still great news because I was just starting to go down that rabbit hole. Now after talking with my wife (she too made comments about my Camry vs her 2GR Sienna) I think a project car would be the best answer for weekend fun and adventures. I’ll have to start using a tape measure because a 2AR or 2GR swap into a Forester or Outback would be real fun I think. (Yeah I will probably have to give the hood a lift or scoop) and maybe toss out the awd, but man this kind of HP would be a lot of fun! I will hit you up as soon as I get everything fitted for all the ecu, tunes and other needed hardware!!❤❤❤ I love your videos and products! Great job on it! I cant wait to start! Thank you!!
nitrous done with the appropriate fueling is not really dangerous. but your timing does get a bit more sensitive since there is less nitrogen in the cylinder to cool things down.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks cannot wait to see this, I hope it brings you tons of business and the following you deserve. I sing your praises wherever possible but I always appreciate the information you put out. Awesome work yet again Marc.
One more question, could the plenum for your velocity stack intake be flipped so the throttle body faces forward? It looks like the bolt pattern is symmetrical but I'd like to know, longitudinal RWD application for 2AR swaps is something that the K swap has much more development in.
Hey just wondering have your ever considered using itbs for this engine? Would a 20v blacktop itb with an adapter be sufficient to flow enough air for this engine?
I'm not yet at the point where ITBs can make sense here. the cost to benefit ratio just isn't there. Also, the ports on this motor are MUCH bigger than then 20V, those ITBs would be a significant restriction on this motor.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Aah I see 1 more question does a 2ar and 2gr weigh less than a 4age? I'm considering of swapping an ae101, but I don't want the weight balance to be all wonky since it won't only go a straight line.
@@WatamelonUberSheep the 2AR is a very similar weight to the 4A-GE, the 2AR is much bigger but the 4A is a cast iron block. The 2GR is about 60lbs heavier.
Hey Frankenstien, I love your videos and they inspire me to work on my own car! Even though its not a race car, lol. Anyways I've got a question, and since youre a 2ar-fe guru, I'd like your insight on this. My 2011 2.5l camry with the 2ar-fe, is having issue on start up, regardless if its cold or not. I've replaced the battery, changed the alternator, and cleaned the MAF sensor. Yet when I start it up, itll run poorly for about 5 seconds or so, then shut off. The codes that are currently on the car are = P0-607 input signal circuit (with a secondary DTC of p0138 O2 Sensor), C1202 Brake Boost Sensor Circuit, and C1231 Steering angle sensor. None of these I feel like are whats causing it? Literally any input would be greatly appreciated!
I also checked the corresponding fuse to see if it was blown, it was not. The spark plugs have 8k miles on them and I made sure to check if they were all seated properly as well.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks It does run if given gas on start up, and it will run properly. If you dont give it gas on start, it will peter out after it gets to idle
So, I’m curious. How large is the network of support going towards R&D for the 2AR platform? Is there other tuners like you trying to unlock it’s potential, or are you pretty much the only one?
I don't know of any other shop designing parts and doing R&D on the 2AR-FE but it's certainly possible that others are and i simply don't know about them.
