IMPORTANT NOTE ON SCALE If the size of your output matters, eg: you need the plot to be an exact size. You must use the measure tool to measure the distance in mm between the two arrows generated by the plugin and add that number to your offset on the second number. For my documents, the ratio of px -> mm was not 1:1, so the plugin's scale was completely off and it generated giant outputs compared to the scale in the document. For mine: Pen Offset: 28mm, 44mm Measured distance in mm between arrowheads: 26.46mm 1st Arrow: 28.0, 44.0, 0.0 2nd Arrow: 54.46, 44.0, 0.0
For everyone who is having trouble with missing arcs (G2/G3 support disabled), and does not want to hassle with firmware updates. There is a simple workaround in Inkscape. 1.When you create your vector path, double click on it, to enter the node editor. CTRL+A to select all the nodes. 2.Click Insert new nodes button to add more nodes in the curves (every time you click this command, your curve has more points and it gets finer in curvature). 3.While the nodes still selected, click the Make selected segment line command, to turn the spaces between the nodes into lines. As a result, there will be no G2/G3 commands in the code which the stock firmware does not recognize.
i did this. what i did, is instead of using a rubber band based mount, i just had a gravity based pen holder. it works with permanent markers and felt tip pens and i get amazing results. also, the software i used was prusa slicer, openscad (for importing and extruding the .svg), and inkscape.
Yeah. You can also do the opposite. Cover the entire blank copper board with sharpie and then use a scratch awl attached to your printer to finely remove the sharpie. I printed an adapter for my printer that holds the awl with a sleeve and spring, so it stays vertical and retracts slightly when it makes contact. Here is a good video on this technique: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sNh0ubRcTYU.html
Why don't you just print your layout onto some glossy magazine paper with a laser printer and then iron it onto your pcb? Way quicker than a sharpie plot. Regards, Etna.
I've been trying this in the new version of inkscape (1.0) and the Beta expansion of the Jtech tool. The Gcode generating worked for objects, but text wasn't transformed properly. After quite a while we found out that you had to UNGROUP text and then it worked fine. You can regroup it again and it still works.
A 3D printer is literally a base non-humanoid robot, kinda like those KUKA arms, it's amazing how much possibilies you can do with it given the correct tools on its "hand" i think i've seen an ad for a multipurpose attachment somewhere, and one of them was a cookie glaze extuder, cool af
If you zoom in even further, you'll find that the pixels for a photo of Chuck Norris are made up of thousands of tiny Nokia 3210's. .... Which are still at 92% charge...
thanks a lot. worked for me on my diy 3d printer. but the link for KM-Laser (hatch fill) doesnt have the pallets folder. I dont know why and i couldnt find one.
Thanks for the video. I usually use LaserWeb for my laser proyects, but i will try this changing the commands as you to try drawing with a pen or engraving with a dremel. !
If you modify line 3120 in laser.py to match your offset you don't have to input it everytime. My offsets were x:15 y:35 so my new line was points = [[15.,35.,0,],[115.,35.,0,],[0.,100.,0.]] and it showed it correctly on pronterface. You must put the image within the new drawn origin.
After adding the new text to the header in laser.py, my line numbers have all changed. Can you tell me what you changed here? Just so I can make sure I am changing the right line...
you could also mount one of those small laser modules to it. You wouldnt even need to change the g code since just moving the head up means the laser isnt focused
Cool but there is a loot of error on corners. As i understand CNC machines dont have jerk like 3d printers and because pen is not pressure related like extruding plastic maybe You can set Jerk value to 0. This will stop moving pen on each junction of Gcode move but in theory it will improve acuuracy when You moving this fast.
would you make a new video with the 1.0 update? It would be a great help try everything as far as my knowledge goes. I downloaded version 1.0 and had problems in the designated directory area in JTP Lacer with the previous version 0.92.5 I have the same issue. Directory does not exist! Please specify existing directory at option tab!
This no longer seems to work, I've downloaded all the files as in the video, one file has been removed from the downloads (Paletts/KM-Laser.gpl) and rest of the downloads are not the same as in the video. Thanks
I would send you best regards and thank you in advance cause i was looking for something like this so i didnt have to change my firmware MARLIN or had to rewire my motors to a cnc shield, i will just change de inkscape stuff with my ramps 1.4 and disconect the hotend, and convert my 3d printer into 2 plotter brilliant thanks again!!!.
Great stuff! Would be cool to see conversion into engraving machine using dremel of proxxon rotary tool, especially controlling the depth of cut. for example to engrave back lit simpit panels, etc. Thank you Michael! Cheers! Phil.
Have you tested these plug-ins with Inkscape 1.0 ? I'm having trouble with the procedure at about 8:00: in the video. I bring up the Laser parameters, change the Laser On/ Laser Off codes and set the speeds and click apply and it throws an error . Invalid syntax laser.py line 51. I can see reinstalling with the 0.92 version, but thought I'd ask There is an open issue on github for the KNR Laser package about updating for compatibility with Inkscape 1.0. Haven't gotten as far as the JMR plug-in. Anyway.. love your video, but it goes SO quick. I'm a noobe to Inkscape so have trouble with all the extra little clicks and changes (like bringing up the Fill/Shadow control panel. It's all wonderful and I just go back and replay one bit at a time. So THANK YOU. for this video. Really good stuff. Have you done one on using a drag knife for using the printer as a cutter? Could see using this same program, but there is a lot of fine detail about cutting sharp corners and curves. that isn't as straight forward as plotter work. That would be REALLY useful and so far I haven't seen one out there. I have a Anet 8 Plus coming this weekend and the first job is printing brackets for a pen and a Roland drag knife. It's a good platform at 300x300 with a glass bed for doing vinyl cutting. That's the 2nd project after the brackets :) I'll see about re-installing 0.92 and see if the problem goes away. Thanks Mike, and stay safe..
HIi Michael, I found my stock Ender-3 does not print the arcs at all. I found that early at the G-Code (using Cura) the arcs are not drawn. Can you give some advise here?
While I'm figuring my own way, instead of pen, I put a vinyl cutting drag knife, the cutting depth is rather interesting and sensitive matter. I might missed some things in this video that I can transfer about setting the z height, so, are there ways to set that up in inkscape? I tried with cura and it works with many hassles, but the largest problem is that the svg reader or image converter didn't work really well to generate single wall toolpath in cura
I would try using a pen with easily replaceable ink and just glue it to the mount and screw the mount to the printer somehow. I might give this a try. Good work, thanks for the idea.
surprised someone doesn't 3d print a pen holder for the 3d printer that can take the place of the nozzle. then use the "laser" or some other extension to addon a pen "activator"
Hi, I am new for 3d printer setting,, i have just pen holder attached on Z. how to set Z for pen holder not having sencer with it. , it was setup for nozzel and sencer
And is not easier to use a 3D file of 0.2mm in thickness then in cura set temp. to 0 and not filling the printer with filament, bed temp to 0 and just set the pen at zero when you home the printer and go!, It will print one layer and that's what we want, Isn't?
i m not able to see those extensions even after copying and pasting those files to extensions folder. Why its not showing in the extensions tab? I relaunched the app after pasting but still its not showing on version 1.0
If someone is still checking these comments... On Mac running 10.15.3. Inkscape requires version 1.0 and the JTech plugin does not work. If I leave the orientation notation default, Gcode is produced, however, if I edit the orientation notation to include my specific X, Y offset numbers - NO Gcode is produced. If anyone has some troubleshooting ideas, love to hear them. Thanks!
Make sure to select the object you want to plot before hitting apply. ie use the 'mouse pointer tool up the top left and then click on the image you imported so that it has the resize arrows showing.
hi.i changed my 3d printer to 2d plotter but when i remove extruder and fan my printer give an error for tempreture and stoped.Can you guide me? my printer is cr10s pro.
After going back and forth, there's the caveat on doing this as mentioned in the remco's thingiverse; basically you can't do this with a stock Ender 3 because of the firmware not supporting G2 and G3 commands, aw..
HI! i sucsessfuly can apply every thing from your video. but i had one unimportant but annoying problem. when i make a hatch fill with 45° the printer it like 2-3 times and some other lines are drowned multiple times. do you or anyone else know what could cause these problems?
you could propably only cnc foam with a dremel since neither the frame nor the stepper motors should be strong enough for much else, extrudings does hardly cause any force compared to routing,
one biggest issue with inscape is it always doesn't fit the build area as like in 3d printing. Its very easy in 3d printing to set the model just inside the build volume. but in drawing case we don't seem to have one good software to do this.
Why don't you set your document size in Inkscape to the bedsize of your printer? If there is some strange conversion happening between the software, it should be pretty easy to figure that scaling error out by placing some objects on Inkscape, load the gcode in your 3D printer software and see where the objects end up. Then you can readjust your documentsize to a value that fits your bed. Just keep in mind that the nozzle-path your 3D printer software draws is offset from where your pen will be drawing on the paper in the real world.
You probably never made a single under or overexposed photo or video clip, because you don't know what those even mean. Your comment is useless and has nothing to do with the video, pls leave toxicity out of here. Cheers!
hey, so when I view the gcode in pronter face it looks great, but when i print it on my 3d printer it draws the hatch infill perfect but the outlines are just some random lines that are completely different than it is supossed to draw, but some lines are correct but thats just a really small percentage. So do you have any idea why this happens? edit: I found out that it does print the straight lines correctly, doesn't matter at what angle the lines are. but it doesn't print lines that are slightly bend/curved. edit 2: I found out that my anet a6 doesn't know what 'G2' and 'G3' means so I searched for those codes in the laser.py file and edited them to 'G1' and now its working!!
ok. You never answer.But if you answer one day I have a question.I am using inkscape now, but the pen does not move on the z-axis and draws extra lines. Please guide
I have been experimenting with something similar, but there is one thing I have not been able to figure out; how do you respond to the person who says "That's very interesting, but why did you not just click "Print", and send it to your inkjet (or laser) printer?" :o)
How about a mount for a rotary tattoo pen from amazon? I'm sure you could find someone who want Chuck Norris on their arm. Seriously who wouldn't want that? :)
The "robust surface" can be a craft cutting mat or one of those super thin cutting boards (about 1 mm thick). There are also craft mats (made for cutting machines) that you can get at craft stores that have a sicky surface for holding down the paper/vinyl/fabric that you are cutting.
I bought this printer ru-vid.comUgkxciSwynMJ7PnUvvx11rewiu-yFBkZTl53 to replace an aging HP printer. It is just used for casual home printing so I don't need anything more. Installation went easily though the HP Smart Printing doesn't work well with our laptops - having to select the actual device. Will have to see how the HP Instant Ink program works out. Plus haven't been able to set up printing from smartphone yet - either direct or WiFi
Very useful Video! I designed my own pen holder to fit with the bltouch upgrade and you helped me a lot finding the right software! However, I got a problem with G2/G3 arcs: the printer (Ender 3 Pro) fully supports them, but Inkscape doesn't output the right G-code, I've already checked by visualizing it in Cura. Did anyone have a similar problem?
@@KernsJW oh yes: basically the ender 3 motherboard does not have enough memory to manage both the bltouch probe and the arc support. The new bltouch firmware has G2 and G3 disabled, so I guess the only option would be to change motherboard..
@@mauco4037 Did you try to just edit the Gcode in a text editor and replace all the G2 and G3 texts with G1? Might be a bit off from the original, but if the arcs are short enough maybe it still looks okay?
@@ProtonOne11 there were too many g2/g3s to replace and I couldn't find a converter... But I still figured it out! It didn't work because I installed a bltouch on a stock ender 3 and there was no space left for g2 support in the firmware. As the bltouch itself was not working that well with the stock board, I decided to buy a skr mini E3 board and all of my problems vanished. Bltouch working flawlessly, printer supports arcs, steppers are silent... So yeah, basically the solution is to change Mainboard :P
So I've exported my G-code after altering the laser.py file, but Cura will not read it because "the g-code representation may not be accurate." Can someone help a fellow out?
Solved: Cura does not accept G-Codes if the header and/or footer has been tampered with. You either have to use another slicer program or run it on the printer and see how it turns out.
