2JZ NA-T Build Ep. 3 - ARP Head Studs & Brian Crower Cams Install 

This is super informative, especially for someone like myself who hasn’t done any engine assembly work before. Thank you! Subscribed.

i thought anything above 264 cams makes it into an interference?

did you use a straight edge to check stud level...ie height consistency

More videos coming guys! Trying my best to pump these out

Thanks for these videos.im following closely.because I want to do the same build setup.

Nice job to both of you!!! Always cool to see Colton learning as he goes, congrats !!

fell asleep last night watching this @283 views hahah had to re-watch @1049 views now. 😂 |Great video as always. man those second tolerances close but he's lucky indeed. | Can't wait to see the cam sensor mod/install video

Here boy, here boy.... Gooood boy Colt. Not a dog?

common mistake is to lube the studs going into the block, NO! The only thing you should be putting on the block side of the arp stud is thread sealer if it protrudes into a water jacket, OR loctite if the manufacturer specifically calls for it or if the engine has issues with studs backing out. the ARP grease and even engine oil will expand a little inside the threads and cause the studs to push out or lose torque...not good. The ARP instructions are VERY clear that the threads in the block and the stud need to be very clean. You do want to ube the upper part of the stud threads AND just one side of the washer where the nut will ride, you do not want the washer to spin on the cylinder head as most are aluminum and will create shavings and dig into the head if it spins. do not lube your block side stud threads.

Jezz Ryan, you make me feel as old as the hills when you called Colton a “young kid”, whose coming along nicely, but will he be as good as his teacher 🤠

great video guys loving the NA-T build

Where are you getting your cam pick up since the gte head has the pick up on the side of the head and the ge heads doesn’t? On Alberto big boost channel he ends up drilling and welding a bung to put the sensor through.

Was anything changed on the head besides I think you said it was decked which is obvious right? It's really clean so I'm assuming it was hot tanked. But was that it? Port and Polish? Valve Train upgrades at all? Sorry if I missed the information. I'm learning as I go like Colton lol :)

Soo, The head goes on easier with out the stud on. It just sits and then you can drop the washers with ARP goop on both sides of washer. Drop the studs in after, because the reason for the allen on top of the studs is to help aid the install of the stud when the head is on.

Cool to see him learning as he goes. Dont corget some moly on the cam lobes before the covers go on.

With the arp head studs its best to hand tighten and back off 1 turn to prevent cracking the block between thread and water jacket

Do you need to do clearance check on the caps before installing these new BC cams?

nice guiding sensi, I am at the same stage as you are.. your really lucky with the valve lash clearance .. for me (lapped valves) I had 6 shims with good clearance, 5 swapped from others and I had to order 13 shims

Good job again guys! I want you to know, i don't even own a Supra but i enjoy watching your channel! I do own a 94 Celica though and wish there was someone on RU-vid with your enthusiasm and dedication to that car. Keep up the great work! Peace!

PRP NA-T trigger kit for the coil on plug baby magnetic cherry sensor

I always put a small amount of moly lube on the washer so they stick a bit better when dropping the head on. Great job y’all’s!

Thanks for showing this as I will be installing arp head studs and a gte gasket very soon. If using the stock cams again would you have to check clearances?

Did you upgrade your springs and retainers or did you keep the stock ones?

Colton is one lucky dude 😫 great teaching

Bro what kind of ratchet is that ? Great work

Going to be doing a 2j naT build so enjoying the video plus doin tons of research how to build the strongest most reliable 600hp out of it

Can I use a 2jz ge head on my 1jz block?

This video help me so much thanks bro

What size socket do you use for the arp nuts ?

How to make turbo line ?

Awesome video. Colton hurry the F up!

Second best straight six around today, after the Australia made Ford 4.0 liter Barra motor of course. Switch out the head studs and valve springs, and those monsters will spit out 600hp with ease. A few mods and 1500-2000 is entirely possible. They take a beating better than a red headed stepchild.

I appreciate you taking the time to make a video, but did you read the ARP instructions because you have mixed up a few things here.

Hey man have u ever reshimmed the buckets? I bought a head from jdm Miami and I bought buckets separately from them so clearances are going to be all out of whack. Ddiftmotion offers shims in different sizing so ill likely go that route. Was just wondering how time consuming it is.

Thankyou for the vid but I seen you said hand tight but you were using a tool to snug. I'm sure you've done it plenty of times that it shouldn't matter

,,,👏👏👏from 🇺🇦

Man I been debating building a nat as well. How come I see come people drilling and welding a can sensor to the rear of the na heads? Do you not need too? Or should I get a nat block and gte head? All vvti na head have cam sensor build in?

Nice vid. Put Molly lube on the head where the washers sit. It'll keep the washers in place and help give alittle more accurate torque.

I’m not a mechanic but this was an informative video. Learned stuff I’ll never apply. +1

This is great! awesome build videos. question.. could I follow the same steps with the vvti na 2j? I believe the pistons are a little weaker but it would be fun to do this build on my vvti engine.

You should degree the cams to utilize the full profile of the cam. That would be the point of the aftermarket cam gears. You will still benefit from the cams but leaving some power behind

Is it the same procedure with the 1jz ge, I’d like to do the same with my 1jz

Seems it would be easier to put head on block first then washers and then drop head studs in with nut on, alrdy lubed

Run the distributor. The cam/crank sensors are in that.

Does the block have to be dropped to do this or does it just make it easier I don’t have a cherry picker or nothing so I would rather keep it in if I can

This definitely deserves a thumb’s up & like!

Do you have to drop the whole thing for this or could you just keep it in I don’t have a cherry picker or nun

Awesome video guys very informative as I am gonna be doin a head gasket soon

just came from tictok and immediately subscribed great channel

Why can't that be me instead! I want to learn how to build my jz

Doesn't the distributor give cam and crank signals?

This is very informative, I love your videos. And this series has definitely helped me so far with my na-t build. Thank you so much

Love this video love seeing his learn makes this vid way more informative

Golf 👏...lol... Men at Work....that movie is a classic

Man I appreciate your videos on the GE🙏🏾

Are those 2jzge head bolts or are thy 2jzgte bolts?

Question do you need a programable ecu to run these cams?

love the videos but please use different music..

Your a badass. Super high energy and passion 👍🏼

would you be able to show if someone does go with a vvti head instead?

3:37 lmaoooo i used to live 10 mins away from yall

Getting famous off of comments day 243, so I can live the dream, live every day like it’s your last🤙🚀🚀

Any regrets going with the 272’s?

Shoutout Colton, I'm proud of you.

I"m doing a NA-T build myself. Why not go shimless bucket right out the door?Especially with those cams

What song at 8:00

*feeler gauge

Head mating surfaces is not clean......

Did arp correct the washers? It's been a while but irrc they were under size and would bite into the head.

siiick!

Your the 2jz godfather 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Great video 🤙🏻

👍💪💯

Is this the vvti camed engine or non?