@licalicawah First, try examining the pipes closely after you get the water out of the hole. Dry the pipes off with a rag. Often times the broken pipe will continue to leak water out of the break(bad spot). If this doesn't work you will have to pressure up the line and feel around the pipe with the water pressure against it. This will tell you which pipe is leaking even if the hole is full of water. The leaking pipe will push pressure against your hand.
@biironbar I tried using a nipple extractor in a number of tees on this project but the broken off risers were rusted into the tee and I ended up splitting tees trying to remove the nipples. You're seeing the steps after trying a nipple extractor.
I just had to do this, but I use a galvanized female threaded coupling, then I cut of a schedule 80 PCV Nipple threaded it into that with tape, then I use a schedule 80 coupling and attached that to Schedule 40 PVC line.
I have had to fix these a few times, but I cut and thread the pipe, then use a galvanized tee and union. On my own galvanized sprinkler system I have turned the tee horizontal and used a 90 degree street elbow to prevent breaking off sprinklers. The additions to my sprinkler system I have made with PVC but do not like funny pipe. My galvanized fittings are all salvaged from scrap, and I regalvanize and rethread them so they are always handy.
@chargermopar Is it possible to do this same repair using galvanized pipe instead of pvc? I want to add a T fitting along my gas line in my attic to run another line for a dryer but I can't figure out how to screw the T fitting in without unscrewing the nipple that connect the T to the main line. Any suggestions?
We had to put full length 4 inch ductile underground, and full length 4 inch galvanize pipes on the roof for fire sprinkler. Must be nice to install 3/4 “ pipes :3
Could the same method be used to tee into my galvanized service line to feed a sprinkler system? I'm trying to research ways to tee into it without replacing the galvanized from the meter into the house.
***** I've had good luck using an IPS brass dresser tee. The galvanized pipe needs to be in pretty good shape for this method to work, not a lot of flat spots or rust on the galvanized pipe. Here's a link: www.plumbingsupply.com/bronze-compression-fittings.html
If the galvanized pipe is paper thin and has flat spots to where you can't get a dresser coupling to work or thread the pipe, there's not much you can do except to replace it.
Pipe was directly under the broken sprinkler head. If your leak is on a sprinkler zone you just have to turn off the timer to keep the zone from running. If the leak is on a supply line you'll have to shut off the stop & waste valve or main valve for the sprinkler system.
Very Good but what happen if I have a very bad rusted galvanized pipe? The galvanized pipe is in the soil and it is wet and rusted; therefore s in bad sharp. Still searching in google on what are the options? 1) try to remove joint 2) cut 3) compression connection. Thanks Tony
Galvanized pipe is not easy to work on. 1. If the pipe is paper thin, has flat spots and is weeping water, you'll have to replace the pipe. If this is the case I would transition from galvanized to PVC. 2. If the pipe has some rust but is still round; you can remove the rusted areas, clean up the pipe, cut the pipe and use an IPS dresser coupling on each end with PVC pipe between the dresser couplings. 3. You can try to undo the pipe at a fitting but often times the pipe gets so rusted that you'll break the pipe off in the threads.
Have you done the gas pressure calculations to determine whether you will have sufficient pressure at the dryer? Regardless, given the potential "boom" factor for getting it wrong, I'd hire a plumber for this one.
