Cool video! I'm trying to flash a Nebular 350R-N, which should be pretty much the same as the 350Y-N. What file(s) are you flashing? The compiled link seems to be broken and the other link says the .bin file seems like it's only compatible with Stellar ESLs. It didn't work when I tried it, but the blue light on my 350 did flash.
Inside the unit there is a 3V battery (in reality it uses two but they are in parallel) but in the video you power it using 5v. Is this voltage used only for flashing? After flashed, to update the display, you used an AP (I suppose the OpenEPaper AP, right?), is it possible to update the display by the same wire connection you used for flashing (instead by OTA)?
Awesome! I got some defective units a few days ago, not knowing that you already did the hack here. Thanks a lot! Will try that one this afternoon. Did you already have a look at the bigger ones? I have a 6 inch one here, it also uses the same processor, but this one is in the original package, not on a dedicated hanshow chip packsge like the 3.5" ones. Plus it has a lipo battery inside and the screen is attached with a mechanical FPC connector instead of the hot-bonding adhesives.
I asked the Aldi store manager if he had some broken ones I could have, and he said they have a ton but can't give it to me because they need to return them :((
Thanks for this video! I have one of these and was wondering how to get into it. I assume it’s either clipped in or glued in from the front. Am I correct? I assume it’s a destructive process to take apart?
Amazing! It's black magic to me, but I'm trying to learn and understand more about it. Did you make a video or post on how you hacked or reverse engineered this device and how you created the new firmware?
hi, please reply as i need help, what tools do i need for this? i have a hanshow nebula 346y-n, i have just bought a usb to uart converter do i also need a zigby controller for wireless flashing new images or not?
I have the 350R-N, which looks very similar. But, when I flash the code I see white text on a black background. Why is mine different to yours ? And, how do I get text to use up the whole screen? Not just the right hand side?
Thank you for your videos! I can't get any further with the Hanshow display. Model: Nebular-350Y-N. I made the holes, flashed the firmware, as in the video. The blue LED also flashed. But after that it won't start and stays off.
Hi mate, would love a tiny bit more indepth ah breakdown here. Great video and i have been following for a while waiting for you to get to these boards lol. But ah yea, is there much configuration to be made on the software side during flashing?
Hi Aaron, danke für das Video! Super informativ. Könntest du bitte noch die Schablone mit den Abmessungen für die Löcher irgendwo hinterlegen? Das wäre sehr hilfreich. Danke!
Would really love a video on how to reverse engineer the TLSR range. I have 100 downlights (Gledopto) with the TLSR8258, and they have really bad Zigbee firmware... For example spamming my network looking for firmware update every 1min
That device is the Hanshow Nebular-350Y-N . It's a Black/White/Yellow EPaper display with 3.5 inch screen size. I think the resolution is 384x184 . I have a Nebular-350R-N which is Black/White/Red . Hopefully they are controlled with the same EPD driver chip.
@@nethomas1968 you sound somewhat knowledgeable on this, will this firmware work with little configuration? Because he didn't really cover the reflash phase on open epaper link?
It is a pretty silly idea to use the soldering iron for making the holes. It hurts the tip and the fumes are toxic. Why do people abuse their soldering iron like this? Don't you have drills?
Drilling might easily go through the solder pad, but the soldering iron will stop without damaging it. It does seem to be a form of abuse to use a soldering iron just to melt the back plastic. Any better solutions? I've used a hack saw to open the back, but I've broken a few of these devices in trying it that way.
