3 Common Installation Issues with James Hardie Siding 

This guy is an ritzy elitist everything that's wrong with the industry . As always his solution bow to the handyman overlord you stupid homeowner. Disgusting 🤣. Thank you for your input sir . His solution pay me 25 grand to put it in . Dirtbag.

I live in WA as well, don't like this product due to too much movement when the sun gets up. Some boards actually bend. Next time will be getting concrete ones.

@@sov19871987 never heard of concrete siding I know these are fiber cement blend.

Corect, Hardie says do not caulk butt joints, eh caulking will look like crap over time. they have al flashing behind each joint, correct

Thank you for the feedback. There’s some other videos on our channel regarding installing Hardieplank. We’ll be sharing more in the near future.

Hi, awesome so I have been searching internet to find out if I can install stone on the vinyl siding and convert to stone siding so I saw this video

The broad tip touch up is for cut edges, all cut edges must be painted sealed...before installing

@@cengeb the original Hardy deign was better, before they started adding the nailing hem, that way you could flip the panel either way, which made it easier to eliminate wasted product. I also preferred the sharp edge over the new rounded version.

@@brianliebel3257 rounded edge holds paint bettet

@@brianliebel3257 factory painted is the best way to get Hardie you will never paint on site like baked on factory paint.

@Brian Liebel the bottom exposed rounded bottom edge give a better drip edge as it's protruding just a tad more much more finished higher end look. Simple sharp cut edges looks cheaper

Correct and good info, thanks for sharing David.

​@@carolinaexteriors3134 Any experience with Hardie deck? We have a hardie deck and want to sand and repaint, the big inconvenience I am looking at is the snap in plastic dividers!? Do I leave them on and mask, then paint or do I remove them, label each one so I know what crack to put them back into and then paint and then put the inserts back in again? (Would be easier maintenance with wood or composite decking, without the inserts I believe?

No! All the “painters” I called insisted in caulking under each board but James hardie handbook says to not do that because it could trap moisture

Ya install to hardie instructions, don't re invent the product

1/4” Clearance above the required blocking (hose bibs, lights, outlets, etc.). 1/4” clearance above over flashing windows (excluding windows with j-channel) and doors. Clearances are NOT to be caulked as caulk traps water behind the cladding. Regarding bowing siding, that’s likely irregular studs / framing that is transferring through. You can control that with the pin backs as shown in this video. However, if using ColorPlus siding, the pin backs must be touched in using the touch up kits provided by James Hardie. We always recommend using 2 1/2” finish nails for pin backs. For additional information on area specific installation specifications, you can refer to this link: www.jameshardiepros.com/

No worries ther's always somebody wants to be the Karen of the show. We have to do what it takes to make it look nice! All good!

Great feedback and idea.

I was thinking of doing something similar. Do you have a tutorial, or pictures of how it looks after a year?

cement fiber does not expand and contract, the substrate wood behind the Hardie does...thus proper installation says 1/8" gaps and 1/4" gaps in other spots...and proper Flashing, and proper nailing,

​@@cengebshow me an installation in cold and wet weather, and I will show you gaps when it warms up and dries...

@@bgt63 nope, fiber cement doesn't contract and expand....proper installation says 1/8" gap, flashing behind each joint, all cut edges painted with the Hardie paint kits...None of my Hardie has gaps, beyond spec, nor are they closed, which is also wrong and it was installed in October

Hello James, thanks for the comment. As James Hardie products are “Engineered for Climate” they have varying installation specifications based on geography. I would consult this site for additional information as it pertains to your specific area. Thanks. www.jameshardiepros.com/

JH has zone specific products, also installation is key....ya have to have it done by a JH certified contractor, to have it done right...i just had my house front and back done in color Plus and the joints and cuts are PERFECT, and painted after being cut, and butt joints have the flashing behind all of them....installation is key, you wouldn't want a Chevy worker assembling a Porsche

@@cengeb we absolutely agree!

@@cengeb ...nor a porsche worker assembling a chevy.

@@danielbuckner2167 what about a pors-vy bludger disassemblig a che-che!

bought a gallon of their Aura premium exterior paint yesterday, color coded to match Hardie colors

You are correct. Unfortunately, as is the case often with “new construction” installation, which is focussed on speed, installers don’t take the time to do a quality touch up job.

I have the color plus siding and they used the touch up kit and the paint faded in less than a year and it looks like crap!

This is your best resource www.jameshardiepros.com/

If you nail within 3/8" from the corner, that corner is going to snap off. Also in my area, which is the gulf coast, windstorm ins and city inspectors want the bottoms nailed also. They dont say how much but after a hurricane wind will get under that siding and pull it off from the bottom.

Ben Moore 100% acrylic is the ONLY paint to use. No problems after 20 years.

Have you found an answer to your question from a professional installer yet? Please share it here if you do. I am wondering if the expanding foam might be capable of pushing out the siding, or trapping water behind the planks.

@@misterlyle. the type of foam you use is important, you have to make sure it's not expanding a lot or pushing the sliding out, I used GREATSTUFF and happy with it. I also left some areas open like on top of the little sliding plastic windows we have to let the humidity of basement come out, like every 10 ft or so I leave some area WITHOUT foam. so this way back of the hardieplank with breathe and water won't get clogged on top of foam.

@@WirelessDesigner Thanks for your reply! Glad to hear it is working.

Yes. The foam isnt uv protected and will fail and absorb water and wick it up into the wall cavity. The correct answer is the install a strip at the bottom behind the siding to rest the bottom piece on. If gaps still exist use a high stretch caulk against the foundation/trim and siding joint. Pro tip: we use a 24" by 4" mirror to see what we are doing when it close to the ground.

The problem is you can trap water and moisture up against the house

I believe that only applies to the pre primed product. This is the same product only it is pre finished so you would not need to paint this particular line of siding.

Eventually Painting it is the best solution. Technically a homeowner could ask the installer to pay for the paint job, but a good James Hardie installer does not make these mistakes. Typically it is because the customer hired a less proven team or a bad company.

Depending on how long it’s been since it was installed, you may be able to submit a warranty claim with the contractor. Otherwise you will have to re-paint. Sorry you are dealing with this issue, but it’s not a product issue, but rather an install issue.

@@carolinaexteriors3134 thanks for the super fast answer. It's only been like 2 years since installation. I know he flashed behind the joints, should i remove the caulk he put in between them? its cracked since install.

Siding Color: Heathered Moss Trim Color: Sail Cloth

Hi thanks for the question - there’s should never be any caulk applied to the bottom edges of the planks.

In certain situations caulking the bottom when it falls below the bottom plate on slab on grade buipds it is bvb the better of bad choices if vermin or bug infestation is a possible issue.

@@carolinaexteriors3134 🤣 you better let the boys in East Texas know that…. I thought it was very odd… but the painters out there caulking EVERY lap…. For DAYS. 🤣

How would the water get out if any got behind there?

Wow this siding sounds like trash! What about penetrating rain?

I would use a stainless pan steel pan head wood screw and pre drill holes.

Thanks, we know the install specifications, unfortunately the contractor that did this install was severely lacking in that category.

Here’s a great resource www.jameshardiepros.com/

It's self explanatory. Leave a 1/4 gap, don't caulk the header flashing and use the correct touchup paint that they sell and not just paint from the store.

My experience has been if you close up that gap that it can lead to failure of the siding above the flashing and necessitate a repair. I have my home done in Hardy and we hardly notice the gaps and we have never had an issue with water infiltration.

I understand in a perfect world Hardie Board could last 50 years, but in order for that to happen you still need keep up with a routine maintenance, which means doing what all wood siding homes need also, typically washing and painting every 7 to 10 years on average. So I ask, other than new siding esthetics and fire resistant what or where is the advantage in cement siding? I’m still going to need to maintain Hardie Board like I do my existing wood sided house and I’ll still need to go back to washing, stripping, and painting every 7 to 10 years! So again where is the benefit? Also, Hardie Boards is three times the cost of a new paint job. My home is over 80 years old and it’s gone through 6 earthquakes in the range of magnitude 5.1 to 7.1, the largest being Loma Prieta at 7.1 in 1989. Damage to my home was minimal. My question here is would have Hardie Board withstood these quakes? I’ve seen no Data as of yet! Bottom line is I have to many doubts, and until they put a home rapped with Hardie Board on a earthquake shaker table I’ll continue to paint. 🙂

@@cengeb I was at this for around 3 months, reading and looking at what seems most if not all pros, cons, videos, and websites. Believe me, I appreciate your thoughts but it's going to take more then warranties and a few pros like bugs, paint, and fire that will change my mind, especially here in earthquake country. I'm sure It's a good product, but it's just not for me at this time. Again thanks for the response and hope Hardie will continue to meet all your expectations friend. 🙂

I installed james hardie in a neighborhood this year was my first big siding job as a subcontractor. most of the subs I was working with were not doing their diligence in terms of following james hardie warranty guidelines. we had alot of old drunk types that didn't want to use the cement shears for our health as tradesmen but then they weren't putting in the butt flashing or joint flashing. the other problem we ran into was the fact that our stud layout was changing because of the poor job of the framers and especially when the crew substituted OSB with fireboard type material we needed to shoot our ringshanks directly in studs everytime. long story short, james hardie plank is not "idiot proof" in terms of installation. sure vinyl and LP are not idiot proof either but for james hardie there are more variables (at least than vinyl) that can lead to probable failure of the fasteners down the road. I would suggest from my experience that you make sure you guys are using paslode tetra grip hardie nails instead of the common ring shank. its more pricey but the hardie nail is gonna help secure that material to the house regardless of error in layout by the siding installers in figuring layout. the hardie nail is also gonna prevent installers from accidentally puncturing water lines, etc. in the house. unless you have a good crew that is dilligent and not burned out because of GC's working them hard due to labor shortage, I would stay with a cheaper siding and make sure that your installers are being dilligent in keeping you with that warranty.

@@CesarGonzalez-kt7vp can't repaint vinyl and it will look like crap in 10 years

@@flyincoyote3810 Agree with you, we have many houses around the neighborhood with vinyl but I don't care for the look they give the house, so no vinyl for us. I decided to repaint my house, continue searching for answers, and keeping an eye on my neighbors James Hardie house. Thanks to everyone for the replies!!

Moisture finds its way behind all exterior wall cladding (vinyl, fiber cement, etc.). Without a moisture barrier installed over the exterior wall sheathing, your exterior walls, framing, insulation, etc. are susceptible to damage. The 1/4” clearance we reference in this video allows the moIsture to drain from behind the cladding, protecting the structure.

@DTOM Gadsden the guy on this video has successfully overseen the installation of 1000’s of Hardie jobs!

My installer is also an elite preferred installer and overall I think they've done a great job. But they kind of brushed off my concern when I asked about this.

I know many will disagree, but if you have a gap of any kind in your Hardy plank, its going to let water in. I installed myself hardy on the back of my home 15 years ago. Pulled the junk shiplap off and installed plywood over the entire back of the house and part of the side. Installed the tyvec wrap. Then installed 12" hardy planks. Primed front and back, ends and top and bottom. Sealed up every end joint and where hardy laps. I made it 100% water tight. It looks just as good today as it did 15 years ago. Leaving a 1/4" gap to let water in behind the siding?? lol Im here on the texas gulf coast, I took advice from the local builders, city inspectors and my buddy thats a home inspector, not a contractor that builds houses up in new England or Seattle. Also I use good caulk, not the 2 dollar caulk.

@@triplenickle6995 Totally agree. Keeping water out from behind any siding is key in stopping the rotting or deterioration of the sheathing, not to mention running down and rotting sills.

@@triplenickle6995 supposed to have flashing behind every butt joint, and 1/8" gap. 1/4" around stuff, mfg specs, and everything flashed properly Quad is the brand of caulking to use color matched

*illegal immigrants

Is that Texas ???

people from this country (I assume the United states) are just as untrained and careless. I payed a contractor to install my roof and ended up having to fix a good amount of things due to thier lack of concern. They missed studs when attaching sheeting , left facia detached in areas and left the boots off of vent pipes. I payed these people $10,000 for a fairly small project. Also hired an electrician that I had to follow through and fix every single receptical in my house because the connections were all loose. So, just saying It's not just brown people or people from other countries that don't speak your language that don't know what the f they are doing. It's also the so called professionals

I’d tell the contractor up front “This is an English Only job site.”

It's cedar mill. You can't patch that without major notice

Thank you, unfortunately we do not have access to the materials you need. Good luck.

If you find some Artisan siding, or anyone reading this, that I am able to use, I will pay you a finders fee. Thank you.

My house was just sided and I doubt the installers primed or painted the edges. Now im very concerned

Its cement board. It doesn’t “suck moisture”. The paint is just for looks.

@goofsaddggkle7351 Want to bet on that. I spent the last 52 years as a roofing contractor and I have repaired a lot of cement siding that did just that. You think that cut edges don't absorb moisture.? Really?

A flashing plate should be used. watch?v=WJ4qwJPpX4c

no CAULKING in joints, each joint must be flashed behind it, read the Hardie instructions

Ha!

It is if you are breathing it for years. Snapping it after scoring works well for more than half the cuts though.

You can use a snipper tool for cutting. Also I believe there is a large shear for cutting full cross cuts.

Thanks for the feedback. ColorPlus is a specialized installation process and unless the handy DIY’er also had several other sets of “handy” hands, it might prove difficult to install. Stay in touch by subscribing to our channel, we’ve got a lot of things in the works you might be interested in.

....uhhh because this is a commercial for their business and you doing work doesnt bring them any money.

It's not DIY, ya need experience, correct tools, only one authorized saw blade Diablo, and get Gecko tool to space properly, and cut the flashing properly, bend Z flashing, not DIY...the Quad caulking made to match color , the stuff is HEAVY, not a DIY product

Agree 100%

Agree - here’s a great resource www.jameshardiepros.com/

Absolutely

highest quality siding available. Why would any one buy an expensive car or HOUSE, when there are cheaper less quality ones? Heck, when ya buy the good stuff ya have the pros install it, not DIY...why buy 50 year OC Premium duration shingles, when ya can get cheaper ones, that don't have specs to be met when installed

@@cengeb so says the salesman. Thanks for the info, I used a different product with perfect results.

@@xlrmale Not salesman, facts. tests, etc...quality products, need quality workers, chevy assemblers don't asembly bugattis...

@@cengeb hold on a sec while I get my hip waders out, it's getting pretty deep here.

nope, it fades, it warps, it burns, it cracks...vinyl is cheap, and the stuff with foam behind it, falls apart...

Sorry to hear that. Why would they need to leave? Is a mask not good enough?

The clearance requirement is to allow water exit from behind the siding over windows, doors and blocks instead of forcing water behind the cladding. I’ve never seen a 1/4” clearance worsen over time.

I’m a home and termite inspector in California and 20 year old Hardie siding gaps like LP composite siding.

@DTOM Gadsden caulk on sir, do your thing, no judgment here. Simply advising what the install specs are per the manufacturer!

@@carolinaexteriors3134 I also notice that the cut edges on hardie never really hold paint all to well over time , and when it starts getting wet it just falls apart from the bottom,if everything is flashed properly no water should get behind the siding and then I feel ok caulking the cutouts

I live in a wet climate. 20-30 inches of rain per year. I disagree that moisture just normally builds up behind siding. I have demoed a lot of siding and I dont really find moisture between house wrap and siding unless something has failed. I feel like leaving large uncaulked gaps above flashing for water to get out is akin to putting a floor drain inside of your house in case your roof leaks.

Hi Alan, thanks for commenting. Curious, what material / product specifically would have recommended to this homeowner? Reminder - our company didn’t install this siding, we were simply asked to assess.

@@carolinaexteriors3134 just by reading up on it lil bit, has way too many issues with installation and longevity..id recommend a high end vinyl siding.. I've been a carpenter/woodworker/ cabinetmaker/ contractor for 35 yrs

@@clinttorres2508 Going to install siding on my house in 2 weeks..was thinking about installing James Hardie but after reading up on all their issues, I have decided to go with Vinyl as well. I am sure Vinyl has its own set of problems. But I'm not willing to pay for the additional cost to install JH.

@@mikef2811 yes like moisture build up. one of my neighbors added vinyl siding and the wood behind the siding ended up rotting. Here on the gulf coast its not advised or used anymore. The thing about these videos., whats good for one part of the country, isnt good for another part. ask your local builders. Hardy is a great product.

Thanks for the comment, Vince. Curious, what’s your exterior cladding of choice if it’s not Hardieplank?

brick haha

osb material siding

@@alvaroalmanza7110 brick haha?

@@alvaroalmanza7110 maybe you’re confused? Hardieplank is NOT an OSB based siding product.

Mfg INSTRUCTIONS plainly tell you DON'T leave on ground in wet etc etc etc, FOLLOW instructions, it comes on a skid, and the things need to have a tarp over it, since the hardi wrrap ain't water proof, FOLLOW instructions..

LP smartside is OSB crap....

instructions tell you to paint any cut ends, follow instructions, with available Hardie touch up kits