3-Dimensional Effects: How-To Airbrush Rivets & Overlapping Panels (Part 2) 

Thank you Ron!

Thank you Richard!

Thanks Sven!

Hi Dougie! As always, I appreciate the kind words my friend!

Thanks for the continued support Jimbo! I appreciate that very much!

Thanks Pete!

lol. I can relate to that sometimes. I appreciate the continued support Josh! That's what keeps me going!

Thank you! Glad it helped you out!

Thank you!

Using a right angle compared to a rounded corner looks the same as far as the effect goes. The determining factor for which I would choose to use on the front fender for me would be how the contours of the front fender and/or the rest of the bike are shaped (I'm assuming you're working on a bike). If the fender has more angular shapes or body lines built in to it from the factory, I would likely go with sharper corners for the patch panels. If the fender has more rounded shapes and body lines built in to it, I would lean toward rounded corners for the patch panels. Does that make sense?

Hi Tina. I apologize for the late reply. It's difficult to visualize when discussing issues like this without pictures. You are more than welcome to shoot me an email at wickedartstudio@gmail.com with some pictures and your questions if you would like. I think I can better answer your questions with a visual reference.

Hi Jason! Thank you for the kind words! I'll add your request to my list of videos I need to produce.

In some cases yes, it takes years to master. In some cases that time frame is much shorter. It depends on each individual. Some people have natural talent and learning comes a little easier. Others have to work a little harder. At the end of the day, anyone can learn to airbrush and be very proficient with it. It just takes practice!

Absolutely! You can either leave a slither of the original base coat visible or erase a little of the black candy for the highlight. I actually intended to do just that. Unfortunately, I remembered that I forgot the highlight after I cleared the panel.

To my knowledge, Createx has never published an actual expiration date for any of their products. My experience is it lasts for a very long time provided it is stored in a temperature controlled environment. I have a lot of stock that still has the first labels Createx used when they launched Auto Air Colors (the vast majority of those bottles have had the seal broken for ten years or more). I don't recall exactly when Auto Air Colors was released, but It had to have been close to 15 years ago (maybe a little longer). So again, some of my paint is very old. Occasionally, I find one of those old paints has become very thick. Most of the time I can add reducer to thin the color out and it sprays just fine. Every now and then I will find a color that is beyond saving and I discard it. So, I can't give you a specific time period as far as when your paint will no longer be usable. I can tell you, based on my own experience, it will last a very long time if stored properly.

Wicked Art Airbrush Studio my local store here in thailand said it would work just for around two year and i dont think so too, so Big thank sir! for the answer!! That’s really help! So i dont have to rush working before it expire:)

I'm glad to help!

It is visible to the naked eye. It just doesn't glow like it will under a black light. Make sure you know what color the glow will be before you plan your work out though. Most colors will glow a totally different color under UV light compared to what they look like without it. That could really enhance your design or kill it!

@@wickedartstudio thank you for that info big money saver

Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!

Thanks! House of Kolor is the only clear used in my shop. Most of the time I use UC35.

@@wickedartstudio OK, I didn't think Createx had anything that looked that good. I use HoK USC 01 Show Clear for some things and for fishing lures KBS Diamond Clear. Even though they don't recommend USC 01 be used in airbrushes I've found it works fine.

Yes, you can spray a catalyzed urethane clear through an airbrush, but I don't generally recommend doing so. If you don't thoroughly clean your brush afterward and any of that clear is allowed to cure within the brush it will ruin the brush. There are water-based automotive clears available out there now, but the technology isn't quite where it needs to be yet in my opinion. I suspect within the next 5 to 10 years, water-based clear coat will be the better technology.

@@wickedartstudio I clean up with lacquer thinner. I have found the best airbrush to use for that is a single action siphon feed with the glass bottle. They are cheap "just in case". I doubt I would use a single action for anything else, but for spraying clear on crankbaits, it works good.

Good to know. I just wanted to make sure you were aware. I can't fault you for using the airbrush to clear small parts like fishing lures. Using anything else would be overkill and waste a lot of product.

My intent was to show the method I use to paint rivets. As I've said in a lot of my videos... it's not "the" way, it's "a" way. There are numerous ways to approach rendering just about anything. I encourage everyone to find what works best for them through experimentation.