RE: Tires Highly recommend Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s. You can get a set from tire rack for under $400, which is a really killer price for a summer performance tire. The OEM all-season Pirelli’s definitely hold the car back, as the Firestones have brought it to life and now it just does everything better. I feel like goddamn Lewis Hamilton trail-braking all the way to the apex and sending it in there, the thing just grips, and grips, and grips seemingly forever. Ditch your OEM tires ASAP, they’re trash.
The intake helped with throttle response and the Turbo is noticeably louder (you can actually hear the bypass/diverter). Definitely not a performance mod by itself, but I knew that going in. Better/cheaper when it's used, too. Granted I have an mk6, but it's the same across the board.
I disagree completely regarding your first argument: not all car guys spend thousands on their cars just to show off. Some spend their hard earned money on their cars because they just love improving them. Regardless, this video goes to my favorites.
I think “improvement” is subjective as well as “waste of money”. It’s not a moral code to live by and i’m not telling people what to do with their money. Just giving my 2 cents to help someone understand something before using their money on whatever
I agree, first model for all my cars where a quality set of lowering springs to improve handling and a set of lightweight wheels and sticky tires. Currently slapping a set of Fast FC04's and Michelin 4S today!
I got the AEM intake kit (AEM is made by K&N) and it is AMAZING. I think it is the best sound upgrade available for the car and if you purchase it with sound in mind rather than performance it is worth every penny. It comes with the largest filter of any intake for the MK7 I could find. It makes the car sound awesome, all of the turbo noises, it really eliminates the need for a BOV. I also have the OBDEleven and used it to turn off the soundaktor completely. I don't think any 4 cylinder exhausts sound good besides maybe a perfectly set up boxer.
For the people out there wondering the best mods for your money, to make you look the best and go the fastest (with reliability) are: Speed: -intercooler (factory mount is best for this amount of power) FDS is the one I have. -Cold air intake (it's only a cold air intake if it is enclosed and gets direct airflow, otherwise you're getting a heatsoaking hot air intake) I got unitronic with the intake duct -Catless downpipe, there's no point in getting catted, its illegal either way. Don't over pay for backpressure. -Cobb access port, with all 3 mods above, you can run the stage 3 tune and gap the shit out of V8s. Keep in mind that you will need a new clutch, pressure plate, and lightweight flywheel with a metal clutch bleeder valve. Any stage 2 clutch that can hold 400 ft-lb tq will do. If you have DSG, you'll need to tune your transmission. Looks: -After Market headlights, it's your personal preference, just make sure that you're ready to pull the bumper or pay ~$125 when your headlights go out. -Spoiler, maxton degisn is the one I have, only downside is that it is adhesive but it stays on. It held up perfectly at 165 mph -Tail light and reflector tint, it's legal as long as you can see the lights from at least 500 feet away. More of a personal preference, you can even install it yourself. -Blacked out/custom badges -Ceramic coating, for about 60 bucks, you can get a bottle that will coat your car, 6-10 times. I did everything but the windows and used 1/10 of the bottle. Lasts about a year If you have any suggestions or questions, let me know!
@CCSconnor Eighty80. It was really nice for 60 bucks. It protected the paint for over a year and kept it clean. However, I'd only put it on a European car. If you have a different car, just use wax every 3 months.
I didn't have lighting package and my replica headlights are the best mod i did. They improve the look so much ans the visibility. Also, i had a muffler delete and i can confirm that the awe track exhaust sounds is much better than the muffler delete.
I believe that it was the expense of paying 400 bucks on getting it done.. myself I had mine done plus the windshield for $225.. which I could have saved an extra 30 if I wanted to wait 3 more weeks.
1.) Sway bar 2.) Tires if not good 3.) Shifter bushings or short shift kit 4.) Tune 5.) More aggressive clutch with torque ratings desired 6.) Downpipe/turbo inlet
I instead got a Clubsport muffler instead of a downpipe for my sound. Now don’t get me wrong I’m well aware that a downpipe will give you extra performance gains while a performance muffler is extremely little to none. But the reason why I went with this is because of the CEL. Now yes I can use a spacer but it’s not guaranteed to eliminate the CEL permanently. Plus my tuner EQT doesn’t offer a tune that can eliminate it. In addition 300hp from a stage 1 tune is enough for me and don’t really need anymore power gains. So all I needed was a stage 1 car with better performance and sound but nothing too crazy (especially since this is my daily)
This video was pretty great. Helps me keep being mindful of what modifications actually make the car better for daily use. Different story for me though, with a TDI instead of normal mqb gasser
Good tips. The only thing I will say about an intake, is it has a good sounds, which agreed is not worth the money. Also it's pretty easy to do yourself, so it's kind of a fun starter mod. I did that then downpipe. Obviously the intake was a waste but it was fun to do myself and the turbo is a little more audible. Thanks for the video.
Good call i have a 2.0T Dsg A3 and it's a beast. You hit the nail on the head. Best mods for sure is a ecu tune i chose Unitronic it's quieter but when i floor it the car screams Hallelujah..lol at the same time get a 3 inch downpipe muffler delete. Engine mounts rear sway bar, "high performance fuel pump" which you didn't mention. Also a nice intake with a K&N cone filter which fits flush in the 2.0T litre engine bay which you can wash and clean when it gets dirty. Also audi TT lowering springs gives it a nice ride and it isn't harsh on city roads. The stance is perfect and aggressive bulldog Stance. Also the right spark plugs is important as well. With these mods i always get complimented on the stance, ride and sound. I can go on in regards to cosmetic upgrades but in regards to performance and handling the above statement i mentioned are best. I suggest the Falken Azenis Fk510 tires great grip reasonably priced and great summer tires for wet and dry weather very sticky tires. And most important use genuine VW/ AUDI parts because they are interchangeable in regards to different models like a MK4, 5, 6.... A3, TT etc which doesn't break easily, so don't cheap out. Great review!!.👍👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦
just got a mk7.5 and Ive been watching all of your videos. I know some parts from the mk7 are not compatible with the mk7.5 but I appreciate the videos as I was going to get a muffler delete. Instead I'm gonna go with a catless downpipe matted to the stock Catback system. Anyways lmao thanks for the vids they've helped me a ton as this is my first project car.
Tint isnt a waste of money, it adds a nice look. The window tinters should have asked you in the first place "are you wanting comfortability and looks or just looks?" Ceramic is almost (or should be) double the price of carbon tint. Any lifetime warranty tint will do. Get Carbon tint for pure looks with the lifetime warranty from bubbles and discolouring. Its the best for eco. I own a window tinting company, and sometimes drive across the desert area of BC, so i prefer my ceramic tint. Again i know how to do it so i have that luxary.
Hey bro, I’m not much of a car guy but I’ve been trying to get into it since I got my 2019 Jetta base model a couple months ago. Like my knowledge of cars and how to work on them is literally 0 but I really want to mod my car. Not necessarily performance but more of cosmetic and like a downpipe and coilovers. What else would you recommend for mods me?
Well....not necessarily. My stock clutch is fine after ~40k, with APR stage 1. But I mainly drive it like a "normal" car. I'll upgrade the clutch when I eventually go to stage 2.
@itsadubsession which southbend clutch did you pick? I was thinking abour going stage 3 daily. High clamping force while using organic compounds for longer lasting performance. With that I would also have to use a SMF. Did you upgrade your throw out bearing or clutch cables?
So I got the 19 golf s. Can I get stuff that would fit on a gti on mine? New to this. I’m talking mainly smaller stuff. IE. VW sign and stuff like that
Got my whole light package all the way around for $130 bucks. Hid low, led fogs and high and complete interior and exterior lights. Even with canbus ddm hid (used). I'd say it's fair, but I'll totally agree a car is not a good investment.. Even bought mine brand new because I didn't want someone that didn't know how to clutch on my clutch. 🤷♂️
If you *don't* plan on going stage 2, a non resonated catback can give the car a good aftermarket tone, and if you like a little bit of flash poking out the rear valence, the Neuspeed catback is a good look.
As a long time owner of a 2013 VW GTI MK6, I absolutely agree what you said my friend. The only 'true' mods I've done to my car are: a good set of tires (Continental ExtremeContact Sports), catted downpipe with resonator, (I'm in California so yeah) and a Cobb Accessport with a Stage 2 tune. My buddies keep telling me to get a blow-off valve, BBS wheels, a cold intake, muffler delete, stance it... Basically all that useless crap. Keep up the great content Mr. Huang. I'm really enjoying your videos.
So I’ve heard on the forums, that I will need a clutch to support the JB4 tune almost immediately after due to the torque difference. Are there any you guys have had good experience with?
Intake works for better top end power + APR stage 1 recommends it with their tune. 180.00 for the CTS Turbo intake. APR stage 2 needs the DP, i ran catted to remove any Honda tiny rasp people get with cat less. Also a DSG tune was a great purchase if not a manual..i know :(
The modes just change the gearing, not HP/trq. Having the DCC in race will firm up the dampers. I believe the “drive mode” is again, changing the gearing to stay higher RPM (like putting it in S mode). Might also change the Haldex but I’m unsure about that
I have a 2019 gti rabbit stock exhaust. Can I get a downpipe for the stock exhaust or do I have to buy an exhaust system first? Also what is the best Downpipe for the car?
Liam Palmer I have a 2017 gti, you do not need to upgrade your exhaust to get a downpipe. I have the 42 draft designs downpipe along with a magnaflow exhaust and it sounds amazing! Follow my Instagram for sound clips! IG: adriantower.s
I could be wrong but if he's getting fumes cause of the downpipe that's a bad gasket or a bad install....right?? Or is getting fumes when you have a downpipe just something you have to deal with??
Shit! I remember my first mod was a cold air intake system. I loved cuz i could hear the turbo loud. After I moved to the 3inch DP. What I do recommend for anyone that has MK5 GTI/GLI is to remove the noise pipe that goes to the firewall and purchase a Diverte Valve Relocation. Better throttle response and less wear on the Diverte Valve. I drive a MK5 GLI. I got a few more mods to list but i would suggest doing that first.
Great advice! 5 miles from new to 10,000 no mods. Mods in order after finding out where it lacked from experience. 1) ST rear sway bar...2) $50 Moog sway bar links 3) H&R Sports on stock struts...few thousand miles later pulled off now back on stock springs and realized springs and stock struts SUCK! Stock height and stock springs soooo nice and the joy of DRIVING is back. 4) $15 Amazon dogbone insert. WOW Should of been #1. 5) After wearing out the stock tires..Yokohama Advan Apex 280TW 25,000 mile warranty tires. Next will be the cheapest chinese ebay downpipe I can find and JB4. Not on the forums...just modded where I needed it to enjoy the drive.
Most mods ater interchangeable between the GTI and regular Golf. The only things that would be different might be exahust systems but about 90% of the mods are interchangable. You can put the GTI turbo in it and get a tune though
Jb4 but in reality if it's a good dealership then it would only void warranty if the tune caused the problem you're trying to fix. ie: your tune isn't going to cause your radio to not work and they should still warranty it
Tires... Tires... Tires... Then Tint, Tune (APR Stage I), and H&R Sway Bars & ECS Dogbone Mount and Insert, K&N drop in filter. That is what I did. Next is VMR Springs, and new RIMS. I do eventually plan on going Stage II and upgrading the brakes.
when you did your down pipe did you get a cel because you went cattless. I went cts cattless down pipe and I did the "o2 sensor spacer" but still have always had the cel because of the cattless downpipe.
My CEL comes on and off. During the summer it comes on but in the winter it goes away. I'm using this spacer right now. www.amazon.com/Vibrant-11619-J-Style-Restrictor-Adjustable/dp/B00AQ7972O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=o2+spacer+j&qid=1554262522&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Stage 2+ Unitronic, downpipe , front mount inter cooler , turbo , fuel injectors , adjustable fuel pressure and fuel pressure gauge. Just because you get the 2+ doesn’t mean you have to be a 2+ that just means you can instal up to the 2+ mark. So as you get more parts you can reflash with your unitronic dongle and laptop as you go. If you want more then a 2+ then maybe look at a different car. Cause after that it gets stupid expensive! But hey if you got the money and want to blow it on front wheel drive.... to each their own.
Not sure about the Golf R but for the GTI you may want to think about an upgraded South Bend clutch to go along with the tune if your OEM clutch already has some miles on it.
Yep, modding cars is a huge waste of money, in the grand scheme of things. With that being said, I have a Stage 2 APR setup (stock cat back though since it doesn't do anything except make more noise, which the downpipe is already loud enough) on my MK7 GTI, along with a Peloquin limited slip and beefier clutch which I needed after the APR downpipe when the stock clutch was slipping. Oh and I have some APR shifter thing to make the shifts more "accurate" - not a short shifter. And then a K&N drop-in air filter since I needed a new air filter and wanted a reusable one, and an intake is a waste of money. Stock tires, suspension (stock GTI suspension is really good, and slamming a car is dumb), etc. I normally hate all-season tires, but the stock tires on this car are actually really good for what they are. I have the lighting package on my GTI, which I love....although oncoming traffic, not so much (I get flashed a lot). I did tint my windows though after moving to AZ - that was a useful mod with the summer heat/sun.
Is anybody familiar with the intake manifolds from Integrated engineering or hpa? Was looking at them. Trying more just for area under the curve hp and torque numbers. Have stage 1 apr tune but thinking about going stage 2 low torque due to clutch wear. Im hesitant on the downpipe cause I think it's too loud and I live in ca for smog purposes.
I agree. I strongly dislike this video. Its built off of bias ass comments lol now a stock car with a dv+ is just silly and a complete waste but only at the stage of what's been done.
The number one mod is a stage 1 tune from APR. You go to 316hp from 230hp. Verified on a dyno you can also do this with unitronic and revo. 600 dollars gets this tune. No question about this being the most performance for the least money
I just got a 2020 gti a week ago , and was wondering the same thing. The guy from the dealership told me, as long as it can be replaced back to the stock version without damaging anything, it won't void the warranty. Don't take my word though, just thought It would help. 💪
@@otonielaburtobermejo4774 yeah I’ve heard multiple answers, still very confused lol. There’s a dealership near me that’s selling a brand new 2020 SE with an “APR performance software update” already done to it along with rims so I guess if I do end up tuning my car I’ll just take it to them lol
don't tune it at a dealership, they overcharge you for their APR+ which just means they void your regular warranty and anything that goes wrong they refer you to a 3rd party to get your problems fixed. and warranty is voided for parts that go wrong because of a tune; in this case engine and transmission is not covered when you tune. turbo and clutch is considered wear and tear and wouldn't be covered in power train anyways
@@LucasHuang it’s an automatic and the guy told me it’s an APR stage 1 under warranty at any dealership.. don’t know exactly how true that is though. I’m going to test drive it tomorrow
I agree with the stance on the air intakes. While they look cool and sound nice, they don’t really add a whole lot of performance per dollar. In some instances they can save you a few pounds of weight. I feel that a cold air intake should be done to accompany a tune that can take advantage of it. Even so, it’s kinda hard to beat the factory design as they want to get the coldest air possible to the engine with the least restrictions for maximum efficiency. My only defense towards a cat back exhaust is that they can shave off a decent amount of weight depending on design. Tunes, tires, and brakes are some of the most worthwhile mods. Maybe an inter cooler if you are running a higher stage tune on the track.
Hi love the video thanks for the tips, I’m getting the 7.5 r in two weeks yay!:) question will it void the warranty if i get the car to stage 1, 2 or even stage 3? Thanks
technically yes. but there are dealerships with good people that understand the modding world where they will warranty your car depending on the problem. if the mod is not directly correlated with the problem then they should fix it but again, depends on the dealership so maybe ask around about your area
first off.. no mod is useless if its your car and its what you want to do. period. but i really feel like you miss the nail head with a few comments about things.. but i do firmly agree cold air intakes literally do nothing with turbo cars.. there is dyno proof to back that up.
I know this is an old video but I was bored and started to look into new stuff to add to my golf R. And I can say all I’ve done is an intake, cat downpipe, and apr valveless exhaust. It is loud and proud. My future plans are bags, full body kit, and a tune. But I enjoyed the video thanks for some ideas I can add in the future.
Sway bar in rear completely removed my wheel hop and I can give a fair bit of gas through right turns instead of having to wait until I am straightened out (on a golf r)
For an MK7, you don't need more performance mods than 1. intake 2. downpipe and 3. tune. Unless you like more power.. Wheels for looks if you can splash the cash but good tires are a must. Michelin P2 is good for the climate where I live.
I don't find anything I buy for my car, a waste of money. None of my mods, or any of the cars I've owen. As long as I enjoy the ride, is not a waste of money for me. Also, unless you are a shop or dealer owner, why would you buy a car as an investment
Engine Mounts and Sway Bars, you don't necessarily need them unless you track the car.. As a daily I would stick with a tune, exhaust, wheels and suspension.
christian lada solid motor mounts are actually not to bad in my mk5 I get little vibration and it’s nothing to pull your hair out over and they also help get your tuned motor get the power down to the ground
@@johneddings6843 Don't get me wrong, I have motor mounts in my GTI right now and I put them in myself. I just don't get why Sway Bars is up on the top 3 best mods, since you won't necessarily feel a difference unless you track the car. He also mentions tires which aren't really mods per se, more like part of the upkeep. That's why I suggested Mods, Wheels+Suspension, and Exhaust as my top 3.
Honestly if your looking at dollars signs, yes it's a waste. However incremently, getting a bigger charge pipe, intercooler and throttle pipe will most definitely increase the cars performance. It's common sense. Especially if you're also planning on changing the turbo to a bigger one. If you think having a bigger DP vs the stock ones allows for more power. Then I dont see why you think what I said earlier is a complete waste lol if you also put on the pulley w/ dampener and upgrade the internals on your fuel pump. You'll be doing excellent. I would never reccomend upping your intercooler yet keeping stock pipping to and from it. It's just stoooooopid.
No not accurate. A stage one tune from a reputable tuning company like APR gets you 316 horsepower and 380 ft/lbs of torque. Those figures are for the mark 7 GTI. This is verified on a dyno so it's not a trick. Do some research on this it will surprise you
On a dragstrip the mk7 gti will run just under 12.9 seconds in the quarter with a dsg and stage 2 tune. Stage 2 is an intake, down pipe with high flow cat, and a tune. 336hp and 400 ftlbs tq. Makes an enormous difference
Alexander White When did I say anything about what a tuned gti does in the quarter mile? My 2018 gti puts down 502 whp and 433 wheel torque on 32 psi.. with drag slicks I’d be mid 10s. I keep up with 700 WHP GTR’s and 660 whp corvette z06’s.
@@techmaster777 If we are talking about 1st mod then stage 1 makes sense. Obviously what you have done is much better and far more powerful. My fault for assuming you didn't know that.
I'm neutral on most of this but what i do know is that if how you modify your car makes it worse than it's stock counterpart in any discipline (acceleration,braking,handling) then I feel like you are or already have headed in the wrong direction.
Rear wiper delete is dumbest mod I’ve seen, turbo muffler deletes do nothing, and the “bro off valve”. The catback I run is Remus and I have a Maperformance downpipe on the way along with a dv+ and cts front mount doing a custom tune and just did the DSG tune. I currently have a Cobb ap, Cobb intake, 034 dogbone insert, H&R oe sport springs, 034 rear sway bar, 034 rear end links, and a cts turbo inlet.
No you very mild springs are ok but people running these 2 inch drop springs on stock struts are dumb. VWR springs are are pretty good they’re like 1.2 inches lower but I run H&R OE sport springs and they’re less than an inch lower and rated for factory struts. I also didn’t want to give up my DCC function. Full DCC coilovers are like 4 grand and have had reliability issues. If or when my struts go I’ll probably swap in some better struts and use a cancellation kit on the DCC but until then I’m happy. A guy I’m cool with on ig has ran VWR springs for 50k miles with DCC and no issues.
I've never been to New York but I doubt the roads are worse than in California. Also, in some places in California, they LOVEEEEE their speed bumps. I think they seriously have an addiction problem, the city officials, or whoever is responsible for deciding where to put speed bumps, they love their speed bumps more than a crack addict loves crack. And the worst thing about it, is their not even designed properly. A speed bump is supposed to prevent speeding, but they design them in a way that even if you're driving the speed limit (in a non lowered car) they will mess your car up. So even in an area where it's 25/30/35 mph, you still have to slow down to like 5/10 mph to not mess your car up.
But even if a intake is a ''waste'' of a performance mod, the noise is worth the money alone for me lol. Stock S3 with only an intake (cat-less, HPFP and a few more stage 2+ goodies coming), my 8p sounded like a 1.0 golf when it was completly stock. The intake for like 100 bucks(bought mulptiple parts for 300 and got a deal) if not less was easily worth it. Intake makes the car fun to drive again, got bored of it really fast when it was stock and quiet.
Intercooler depends on how you drive your car tbh. If you do competition racing then necessary but if it's just daily driving i wouldn't say it's a must. But also depending on where you live, for me NYC only gets summers for like 3/4 months anyways
You're not wrong, but I would say performance intakes and catback exhausts are worth it for acoustics and performance. You can easily push an extra 30hp combining those mods, and harmoniously work with other mods. Just don't over pay (carbon fiber intake XD).
Tint isn’t a waste of money. It protects your interior and keeps your interior temp cooler. Metallic tint fcks with reception. Llumar is quality. Where did u get it done? I have suntek and I wish mine were Llumar. llumar never fades also
Get a ecs tuning system, only about $350 and sounds amazing, car finally makes a bunch of turbo noises and I find myself just pressing and lifting repetitively just to hear it
You spent 250 on a muffler delete? The fuck lol. The awe track exhaust isn't just a muffler delete. Everyone tells me how much better it sounds than their car with straight piped exhausts. Even with a catless downpipe my car is pretty loud but actually sounds good. The muffler that it comes with does a good job. 700 dollars it was worth it.
Haha we all make mistakes.. sigh... but yeah i went to multiple shops to make sure i wasn't being ripped off and they all quoted me $250 so i went to the shop with the highest Yelp rating. Also yeah I think I might have misspoke about the AWE track exhaust. They removed the resonator and have a mini muffler in the middle.
Lucas Huang Maybe it's just because of the area you live in, but here in Houston they only charge 50 bucks for muffler deletes.. I paid 85 to have a whole catback exhaust installed. Yeah I love the awe. For a 4 cylinder it doesn't sound bad but it's honestly not even loud imo
