3 Portraits with 3 different lighting types // Natural Light. Fill Flash. Full Flash. 

i will and ty!!

appreciate you!!

haha... yeah... i needed to stop talking... it was cold for my wife for sure... :)

I don't hide my emotions in my facial expressions very well 😂😂

@@alissacincotta6228 truth.

@@alissacincotta6228 HAHA! You're such a trooper. I hope Sal took you to a nice, warm restaurant and cuddled you up while editing these. Great job, you two!

ty ty!! my fav as well!

I LOVE BRAZIL!!! Cant wait to return. Yes, thank you so much!! this was a fun shoot for sure.

my fav as well.

ty ty

Ty ty. Yeah for a wedding depends on how much light I need. If I’m going to shoot at let’s say 5.6 so the party is all focus would prob need more power but reality is might need a second light just from a coverage perspective depending on how spread out the bridal party is.

A few things to be aware of. The A2 in this video, to me, seems barely powerful enough. Watch the video again and you'll see it's power displayed at 10 or 9. Here, 10 is 100% and 9 is one EV down, which is 50% - every whole number down cuts power in half again. I probably would have left the diffusion dome off as it disperses the light more and the shots are with a longer than 50mm focal length position on the zoom - a Profoto Magnum OCF reflector might have helped here, but does not exist for the A series. That diffuser removal would have given 0.5 to 1 EV back to the user. That's important, as the meta-data with the stills in the video indicate much shorter than X-synchronisation exposure times. This in turn means that the flash must operate in "High Speed Sync" which basically means that it fires pulses stroboscopically in a way that to the camera looks like constant light. As a speedlight/strobe draws its flash energy from a big capacitor that is charged in the recycle cycle, and if the flash needs to fire 5 times for the fast exposure time, then this means that each of these flash pulses can have a maximum of 20% from the full capacitor load. That 20% is 2EV and a wee bit below full power. As an A2 has 100Ws electrical energy for a full power flash and the B10 has 250 Ws, you can see that the B10 has about 1.5 EV worth of electrical energy more. Note that the Watt.seconds (Ws = W.s are the micro sibling of k.W.h - and, 1 Ws = 1 Joule = 1J) merely inform about electrical energy consumption, not about light sent out. To be able to appreciate light output, you need Guide number - but that depends on ISO and reflector/light modifier and its unit is meter or feet. I would personally bring a couple on-camera speedlights for off-camera use, that can light a big room as an ensemble. But that needs preparation and testing. The same applies to the B10, though. It can easily blast to a far distance but in that overpower the foreground. So strategically placed units - more than a couple - possibly hidden from the camera, can do better. But again, you have to experiment with that. And, with wireless (radio) triggers, you can easily switch a group of speedlights off, for a shot that you want to make look like the classical on-camera hot flash. Another thing is the 200 ISO setting that we saw in the meta-data with the stills in the video. I'm not a Canon shooter, but the majority of mirrorless cameras today have "fixed ISO" - which means they surrender dynamic range as a way to mimic high ISO. In the same way White Balance is just a number with your raw file that tells LrC or C1 how to open that file, ISO works the same way in such a case. Well, these cameras generally have two "amplification levels" in the photodiode circuits with each photosite (the real sensor(s) in the sensor). W.r.t. my camera, I have seen a noise plot as function of ISO and from 100 ISO to 390 ISO noise runs up in order to fall down to 100 ISO noise level when set at 400 ISO. This means that from 400 ISO, my camera goes to the higher amplification level but without noise penalty. Interestingly, 2 EV of ISO up from 400 (i.e. 1,600), the noise level is the same as at my theoretical 390. In the Iceland shots, higher ISO would have helped the flash, but also made available light relatively stronger. Higher ISO however would have benefited the High Speed Sync that allows for very short exposure of the available light.

ty ty!!

I don’t disagree w you on that. Natural can be beautiful when done right.

if we are talking about the same image... the second one is fill only... not going to be soft at all... so its just adding a bit of pop to the eyes

alissa and i were just talking about your comment... i think we have a new video topic coming soon. :)

@@SalCincotta1 Thank you so much, Sal. I look forward to it

Glad you liked it!

Yes. Don’t confuse ttl which is a metering through the lens and hss which allows you to shoot w flash at high shutter speeds. So if I want to shoot during the day at f2.8 or wide open shutter will be at 1/2000 or higher. So you have to put the flash in high speed sync to work. Does that make sense?

@@SalCincotta1 gotcha that makes sense. Thanks

yes HSS if you want that shallow depth of field in a scenario where its bright out. i personally LOVE the look of that - very milky. Overheating? of the camera? or the light? no to both. Never have had an issue. Obviously, in iceland its cold during this shoot, but even back home where temps are 100+ in the summer - ZERO issues.

@@SalCincotta1 I have a ton of problems with my lights (Godox- ad400pro usually, or my v860ii speed lights) overheating in hss which makes day shooting almost impossible. Wondering if it’s a Godox thing? I was told by others that you just can’t shoot hss for “demanding” shoots (all of mine are basically!)

@@story.allegory oh wow. NO NEVER. Now, i know all the godox fan boys will come out to protect their brand, but Ive been using profoto for 10+ years now... the a2, b10 and a10 - NEVER A SINGLE ISSUE with HSS or overheating. I can also share with you personal experience that ive watched with godox shooters in some of my workshops - not a one off, but a repeated issue... misfires from the trigger. I dont know why, etc - i just watch them struggle with a ton of misfires. Again, something ive NEVER experienced with profoto. We were just in iceland and some of the shots I took were about 800-1000 feet away.. not a single missed frame. So.... not sure if im helping you here or costing you more money. :)

@@SalCincotta1 haha it’s tough to make a switch with so much Godox gear but it may happen! Interestingly, I seem to be the only person I know with this issue so severely, and it didn’t come up until I bought my canon R5. Wes Perry on RU-vid does a lot of overheating tests that really put Godox’s abilities into perspective- flashes usually only last about 4 minutes of continuous shooting before they shut down

@@story.allegory get a Kase clip in ND filter for your camera. Works better than HSS anyways and it leaves your strobe with more power. My doesn't work all that well in HSS too, but to be fair, none of them do, with maybe an exception to Profoto. I've never had a chance to lay my hands on that one. Godox all the way haha!

ty sir! yes - im happy with the results, but of course, if i can have more power... ill always take more power!! :) when im choosing lights for a job... it realy comes down to where im going? how much can i travel with? how quickly can i move? etc. so sometimes, the bigger lights are more trouble to travel with or just restrictions at the location - public space, wind, etc. make sense?

@@SalCincotta1 I agree 100% with not having to haul around a behemoth setup. I get looks when I roll up with a one-light setup and blow everyone out of the water. I appreciate the quick response. Thank you for putting out very inspiring videos!!!! Have a great morning from those of us on the West Coast.

super easy. most of today's camera and flash set ups AUTOMATICALLY adjust to HSS without having to change anything in a menu. this particular set up - my camera and flash automatically see im above 1/200th a sec (normal sync speed) and kicks everything into HSS.

@@SalCincotta1 Hey thanks and great images... Alissa needs a medal for freezing!

Aperture priority all day long.

Lol it’s like a little Easter egg. :)

they are in the video... we didnt over process any from this shoot. wanted to show the final images out of camera for the most part.

Glad you enjoyed it!

no she was not, but you made her night. :) she had to be forced to get in front of the camera. she is a formally trained producer... its what she went to school for.

No I would t say that as a blanket statement. I can tell you having held and used both products profoto build quality and durability is superior. I would imagine you would have a much longer duty cycle w then. So maybe that’s the pro side of it.

all shots taken in aperture priority - the only time i shoot manual is usually in a CONTROLLED lighting situation which does not exist for the most part outdoors. so mostly in studio.

gotta define your own look and style for sure. that is what people will come to you for!

haha yes she did!!

lol... you often find yourself traveling through iceland or foreign countries carrying sandbags?? :)