RV Airflow is worth every penny. I have never regretted purchasing it as it allows our single A/C unit to cool our Grand Design 337RLS all summer long.
Thanks.. Our ducts on our Class A are a straight shot from rear cap to front cap with both ACs ducting to the single supply and return chases. There is 3-4 feet of wasted duct between the furthest forward AC outlet and the front cap. Similar to where you foamed, I used a piece of a larger sized pool noodle. The length is the width of the duct and it is cut in half (the diameter or in a C profile). I just inserted it into the last outlet blocking off that dead end area. The noodle wedges into the duct width and the C profile compresses to fill the duct height and pushes the air out the last outlet. Love pool noodles. A million uses and probably a good idea for an episode.
I find the RV (37' 5th wheel, 2 AC's) stays much cooler if I open the air dumps on the AC's instead of flowing the cool air through hot roof ducts. At least one brand of RV has also gone this route and have done away with ducts. Over 2 weeks in Florida, often times the fans on medium, and we never once froze up.
The advantage of camping in Canada (Ontario) is that our heat and humidity is not as high as our southern neighbors. We just finished a 20 day trip through Michigan, and only one night did we run the AC all night. We only had a couple of other nights that we put the AC on. I don't remember having on during the daytime, except once or twice when I was having a nap :). Good suggestions for maintaining your AC. A subject I would like your thoughts on, is Fresh Water. Normally, I have dumped all my tanks when departing a park (Black, Grey & Fresh). We have occasionally encounter an issue when we have arrived at a park and discovered that they were under a "Boil Water Order". Something had gone wrong with the campgrounds water, and this summer we were left with no water in our Fresh Water Tank or in our portable Blue Jugs. We only had a case of bottled water on board. From that point on we made sure that our Fresh Water Tank & Blue Jugs were full before moving. The reason I previously emptied them was to reduce weight, but we got a new tow vehicle and it is more than capable of pulling the trailer with a full tank. Do you always carry water in your Fresh Water Tank? Love to hear yours and other thoughts.
dude what an awesome amount of useful information. I found your channel a little over a year ago and love how much info you pack into these short videos. it's never long drawn out videos packed with a crap ton of filler words. thank you!!!! your honest and informative approach is what got me to subscribe. keep up the good work brother. safe travels!!!
The 3d print ducting vent link does not seem to be working unfortunately. Would you mind updating this link as I have a 3d printer and would like to see if they have my model AC unit listed as an option. Great video thanks for the content!
I have an odd shaped skylight over the shower in my 2000 Monaco dynasty so I cut reflectics to fit that shape and then cut 3 inch thick high density foam to put in behind it. A little bit better than what those foam pillows that fit in your vents are. It stays there all year around because it helps hold the heat in in the winter time. Thanks for the video.
We had to replace the inside portion of our sky light in the bathroom from looks to be heat stress cracking... when i pulled the old one you could see into theroof section and feel the heat...so before i installed the new one i stuffed insulation in the air gap to keep the heat away from that area... amazing how much heat that air gap in the roof section generates...i do see on some of the factory visits that some of the manufacturers address that air space...😊
We went the foam do it yourself way and it has been amazing. We've camped in 105 degree weather in Florida and our Coleman mach 13,500 has kept up. It also helps to get a better thermostat. If we change campers or get a new ac we will go ahead and do it again or try the paid version.
One trick I found that helps significantly is using the foam strips they sell for insulating around a window air conditioner around my slide out. The seals do a decent job but there's still a fair amount of hot/cold air that makes it past them in the corners. I noticed it my first winter with cold drafts. The foam strips turned out to be the perfect size to fit between the frame of the slide and the wall when it's extended. It makes a pretty big difference and only costs a few bucks. It's especially helpful in the winter since there's a bigger difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures.
Just saw your a/c video. Love what your putting out, great tips a lot of I have done. One thing I have done and turned out not to be good is putting reflectix in the sky light. My last trailer had 2 sky lights I did this in. In both, the plastic area around the sky light, the refectix reflected so much heat it severely yellowed the plastic and made it very brittle. I also had reflectix in my side windows. The plastic lock for the window, the extreme heat damaged the latches, and I had to replace them with metal. I live in Eastern NC not the dessert, if it does it here......
Really enjoy your channel. You held up in this video a ceiling A/C deflector vent as a replacement for the original. I looked on e-trailer website but did not see it. If you have time can you tell me where you found that. Many thanks from Canada. Cheers!
First off, thanks for all you do. I am wanting to know about the cone for the cfm meter. Did you make your or was it a purchase? Link if a purchase and would love to know how you made if thats the case, TIA
I read somewhere in a forum that the person posting discovered their in ceiling vents extended too far into the duct, blocking part of it. and they increased the airflow downline by trimming off the excess vent that protruded into the duct. I suppose you could also scarf it so it acted like a scoop also, especially the end vents.
One thing to mention on the RV airflow ducts insert is you need to double check the depth of your tunnel to make sure there is proper clearance for these new vents to be put in the ceiling. As for the RV airflow insert worth every penny.
On our '22 Jayco you cannot see the bottom of the a/c. The roof is smooth except for return air intake filters. I'd love to try some of your ideas. I guess I need to remove the unit and modify from the roof.
Is it a good idea to leave a window cracked when running the AC? Warm air is drawn out from the camper to allow the cold air in. If I leave a window cracked it won't create a vacuum? Mine doesn't seem to be cooling like it should, but it's not freezing up. Thermometer if placed right up against is 20 degrees cooler than the outside temps. Thoughts?
I would make sure the Evaporator coils are clean and then try each of the other things I mentioned. You should close the window. That is making it have to work harder. These ACs don't bring in outside air. It is a closed loop on the inside.
For the home printed unit i noticed that you didn't include the cost of printing in the $20 price. How much cheaper is it actually with product included?
Jared, what do you think about working inside the roof cover of the mach AC unit to seal around the evaporator to force air to flow through it and insulating the thin plastic cover around the air chamber with foam board? It's only the 1/8” of plastic isolating your AC air from the ambient air above the roof.
I wrapped the plenum in reflectix on my trailer. Left the cover itself alone for air flow as you want any type of breeze possible to push the hot air out from under the cover. Not sure foam board will work as most covers are slip fit over the unit. Not a ton of room for it.
I just had my roof redone with the FlexArmor. I had them spray my skylights as well. No problem with the light shining in. If I need more light, I'll add led strips in the frame. I hate skylights in homes and RV's. Such a waste of money.
While camping in Florida, our Furion ac in the front will run for an hour or so before it gets down to a reasonable temp then cut on and off. How long is to long for a rv ac system to run?? 42 ft Keystone Montana 5th wheel
We have run ours continuously for days before. Sounds like you have a problem that needs checking out. I would check the coils after cleaning the filters. There are two sets of coils and I believe the Furrion has a temp sensor on the evaporator coils. So if they need to be cleaned and are getting close to freezing up the temp sensor will shut it down until the temp changes. There could be more going on but that is where I would start.
I opted to block off the ducting system with the pair of Tosot units i put in.... it just didn't seem that there was even remotely enough insulation in the roof to keep the air cool as it passed down thru the rv... easier to dump into the room and treat them like non-ducted.
Yes for that reason the dump would technically be more efficient. I was supprised how much more air the Colman Mach moves compared to the Gree Unit. I have kept it going into the ducting for now so it can reach the rooms.
I’m surprised at how much more moisture the tosot/gree unit removes. It’s a steady faucet off the roof when it’s running. Before the dometic units were a slow drip. Got the weather station data to show the humidity drop as well.
Strangely enough I just checked the filter and there was very little in it. I must have cleaned it the last time I was in Arizona. The coils are another story. I don't recall even checking them but by example, my memory is very suspect.
