3 Steps You May Be Overlooking When Doing A Brake Job! 

This is a fine example of professionals being professional, because they care. Love it.

Best of the best advice! My buddy who is a german mechanic, told me years ago: If you want a quality brake job, do it yourself! Many thanks for your stellar advice!

This is why I'm subscribed, no screwing around with "wait till the end" from start to finish all great, no bait and switch, no crap, txs guys !

About 5 yrs ago I got brave enough to try to do a brake pad job myself on my Jag XKR. I watched a video on how to do it and all your tips were in that vid: use an S-clamp to hold the caliper, clean all debris, use a thin layer of grease on back of pad, break-in, etc. After my success with that, I had the confidence to do the brakes on my Enclave, Camry, Giulia....etc. Good to know I was well trained. 🙂

Definitely go check out Royalty’s brake job video. Best one on YT. Use the right lube in the right places. Go the extra mile to avoid come-backs. Grateful to Royalty that I watched it in prep for my 1st brake job. But wish the Professor had mentioned pad break-in in that video.

this is where/when i learned just how important a proper pad bedding actually was. i never let any brake job go without at least a 15~20 minute test drive, even just a pad hang. this was back in the late 80s or early 90s. i had a mushy petal after a brake job. when it came in it had a sticking caliper and leaking wheel cylinders, so it got both calipers, wheel cylinders and all 3 hoses. Wagner MX pads and riveted shoes. new rotors and turned drums. i never got it to do it, but customer said once at a light the brake petal dropped after a few seconds sitting so a new master cylinder too. the job went fine with nothing unexpected happening, until it got bled. i could not get a good solid petal. it was like it had a big slug of air stuck in it. and yeah, i had arc ground the shoes. i spent more time bleeding than i did on the entire rest of the brake job. i normally used a pressure bleeder that held about 2~2.5 gallons, so it was a one man job. i only ever used DOT 4 fluid. after every time you released the petal, you had to pump it backup to get a decent petal. the first hit was a state safety inspection fail. the first hit the petal was less than an inch off the floor. pressure bleed didn't work, so i did the 2 man pump it up bled. after going thru at least 2 gallons of fluid, i clamped the hoses to find where the air was at. with everything clamped off, the petal was rock hard. you unclamp any one thing and the petal got spongy, it was a lot worse with both fronts than the back. thinking maybe a bad hose, i put one of the guys in the truck and while watching the hoses, had him push hard on the petal, the hoses were good. then closely watching the pads, i released the clamp on a caliper and watched the pads,.. compress,.. a LOT. both sides was doing it, and im pretty sure the rear shoes were too. i swapped out the front pads 2 times with no improvement. then a third time i tried some old used pads and got a good petal. i spent time on the phone with Wagner tech, they had nothing that helped. after having it 3 days, the guy needed his truck back and i finally decided there was nothing else to do but drive it and see what happens. i went to my secluded test drive road and started the bedding. the petal slowly got better. i was there almost 2 hours. when i gave it back, i still wasn't happy with the petal and let the guy know to take it easy if he could. a few weeks later he came back with about 2000 miles on it, and with a high & rock hard brake petal. i had done plenty of brakes on cars with 4 wheel drums, some without power brakes so i knew the shoes had to match the drums pretty good or you had a bad petal, front drums need to match side to side or you get a brake pull. but this was my first brake job on such a basic vehicle with front disc brakes. manual brakes do not move much fluid so it doesn't take much to kill the brake petal. the vehicle, it was a 1984 or 85 chevy pickup, no air conditioning, no radio, 3 on the tree, inline 6, no power steering, and no power brakes. the heater was either windshield or the floor, no dash vents. it did have kick panel vents. i forget the make, i had one from "another shop" that the anti rattle retainer/spring on the back of the inside pad was pushing the piston back in. that car could have either the phenolic or steel piston calipers. the retainer/spring was attached to the pad so the pads were different part numbers. he had phenolic pistons with pads made for steel pistons. i actually think he had done the pad swap and was trying to not look bad.

Great advice. The only thing you forgot is to torque the lug nuts. That's the number one reason the brakes pulsate. Thank you

Rust belt warrior here! In my shop it's a must to needle scale the caliper bracket. Especially where the anti rattle clips go. We permatex green synthetic brake grease both sides of the clip. Always every time. Prevents rust from building up between and seizing brake pad. Great video and correct techniques

Followed your previous brake job video to do my own brakes for the first time recently, as a first time homeowner who finally has a garage to work in. Appreciate y’all taking the time to show how to do things right!

I got these orange nite ize twist tie type of things that idk are maybe 8 or 10in long and they work great for holding up calipers or pulling harnesses out of the way etc.

Started seating the pads while I was at the dealer and continue to do it at my shop. Usually do various speeds and not to a complete stop if I can avoid it. I always tell customers to avoid hard braking for 250 miles if they can. Some brake pad brands actually print the brake in process and mileage in the box. This is a very good video and advice. I totally agree that more techs need to follow these steps.

Great video. I'm living in Denmark, part of the rustbelt, and it's very important to put some kind of grease under the shims here, to try to prevent the rust buildup under the shims. Likewise I will use very little amount of grease or fluid film on the hub where the rotor sits against, which is not done from the factory, but If I don't do that I will have a very hard time removing the rotor again. That's the "beauty" of living in the rustbelt.

Stumbled across your channel. Some of the best, most direct, no BS, we emphasize quality car care videos I've seen. Much appreciate the real world pad break in process. Not everyone can make 30 random 30-5 or 50-20, etc stops in real world traffic with real world stop signs and lights without serious risk of something bad happening.

You have it good in the South. Those rotors coming off are less-rusty and cleaner than after we wire brush ours in the North. Love the content, intent, and perspective of your videos. Please continue to be yourself and genuine.

For the most part all the tips you mentioned was how i was taught. The way i was taught in seating the brake pads in was to get up to about 35-40MPH and brake moderately down to about 5-10MPH and do that about 5 times. Something that i have learned doing brakes which i dont believe was mention is not to use Antiseize for the slides pins they don't allow the pins to move as free as they should and results in the pads wearing abnormal or wear faster then they should. Another tip i was taught from a guy i worked for is to try and save the old clips due to them being made better and machined better. If they are to damaged then replace them.

Glad to see these advice videos. They have helped me do the brakes recently on my wife's car. The originals lasted 70k miles and I'm confident with the right process the new ones will last just as long.

Key words right in the title :Take pride in your work. Do it right, do it once. Always great work guys!

I really like all your videos. You’re very informative, and articulate about how things are supposed to be. And how things should be. I started watching your videos , when I saw what happened to the bmw, that you guys had a problem with, and it came back and you took responsibility for a mistake and got it done at your own cost. Not many shops do that. And don’t admit their mistakes. Keep up the good work and love your videos

Completely agree with the lubrication of the caliper, I live in UK, lots of rust, I put silicone grease under the brake hardware and also on the tips of the pads. No issues with binding or clogging up, also watched a video from ATE, their factory advises this

Great information! I was taught that cleanliness was the key to a good brake job. Thanks for explaining burnishing in the breaks

Always happy to see Sherwood in my feed.

Loved your video, one thing I think you missed is... clean your rotors before you install them. Brand new rotors have oil all over them to prevent rusting. Alot of people don't clean them and all that oil transfers to the pads. Keeps up the good work and thanks for sharing your work @

I find out that geomet coated rotors like the one you have there are very difficult to bedding the pads. Manufacturer recommend 45-5 for 5times but that barely scratch the coating. I agree in the 30 times especially with Ceramic pads to avoid this problem.

Parking lots in a warehouse area is great for breaking in the pads. They are usually long enough to get up to 30 to 40 then back down again. This is per Power Stop standard brakes.

LOL doggo showing how it needs to be clean

What’s your shops favorite brand of brakes to use on customer cars ? My job loves using duralasts even on euros which I hate

Nice. I also remove and clean slide pins and clean bores out with brakleen and compressed air. Then, reinstall with fresh grease. You can also put a little grease under the shims to prevent rust jacking.

Thank you for all your knowledge sharing. I learn a step or two from every video. Much appreciated.

One thing I would add is use a non contact thermometer with laser to check average brake rotor temps. The more you use it on the rotor face the better you will understand what is normal and what is not. We have found many problems using this method at the end of the test drive/break-in.

I've started using mostly Powerstop brake parts for my brake jobs. The quality of the rotors they are selling at the parts stores has gotten so bad, that I try not to buy brake parts locally anymore unless it's the dealer. But I like the powerstop method of burnishing new brakes. I believe it's 5 moderate decelerations from about 45mph down to about 15mph or so, then 5 aggressive decelerations down to 10mph, without coming to a complete stop, then drive for at least 5 mins to allow cooling.

Yes, lubing under the clip in the rust belt is a prudent thing to do. Just enough to glaze it, doesn't need to be a lot, or else it will attract big gobs of dust. It just needs enough to mitigate the corrosion. and even still, the brakes should be checked at least annually.

I began greasing under the hardware when I worked up on Long Island, so even though I'm in Florida I still like to grease under the hardware, sparingly to reduce rust and corrosion under the hardware. I also see some over grease the pins causing a hydraulic effect that springs the pins outward. Also brake cleaning new or machined rotors before installing to remove anti corrosion coatings or machining dust. Seating pads is HUGE, first few applications the brakes aren't very effective until seated in. Don't send someone down the road in that condition. Thanks for the video!.

Thank you SO much for this video, Sherwood. I have been cleaning and servicing brakes the same way and in the same spots you show in this video, and I always perform a good road test afterward. I have lost count of the number of times bosses (including my current one) have told me that I "don't need to be so thorough with my brake services". Thanks for giving me hope that there are still techs and shops out there doing it right and caring about their work 👊.

Use akebono brake pads. The best pads and won't make any noise.

Great video Sherwood! As a DIY’r, learned most of my auto skills on my own, long before RU-vid. Learned about “bedding in“ brake pads 20 years ago. Excellent note on doing so after completing a brake job. Please add an explanation about doing the same on a new auto. Nobody ever addresses this scenario. Thanks and keep up the great work!

I like to use a roloc on a die grinder to clean the caliper bracket and hub. I also put a smear purple permatex on the backside of the clip (I'm in Buffalo, NY very salty).

Problem with lubing where the brake pads ride in the hardware area is dirt and crud get in there

Another great video, as I’ve remarked on South Main auto. I’m a semi retired although not retired enough Mechanic bordering on 47 years. I’ve done all this stuff before. I don’t know why it’s been all this time watching it, except you and Eric are very personable, and I just seem to like your philosophy. By the way, that’s pretty much how I’ve always done my break jobs, lubing pins for sure I use a little more grease on the back of the pads and you do and I at least get around the center of the hub where the rotor sits to get that rust off. I then treated with a swipe of either anti seize or caliper grease. But I can fast. I don’t spend a lot of time on the entire knuckle area. Anyway, cheers. I wish you all the best.

Great respect. The requisite Blue Heeler in the background brings it home. I learned many years ago to clean and grease the grooves after hammering loose pads on a F100 that had been put up dry. My 2006 Highlander was built with no grease, which caused me to replace a bunch of pins and brackets at low mileage. The car is reaching 200K without a lube related failure. I use hi-temp silicone grease behind the shims. I live in a high corrosion area of Ohio.

99% of shops won't be doing brake jobs this thoroughly.

Finally somebody's tells it like it should be done. I do paint the caliper ears lightly but we are in the rust belt. Great video man!!! 👍🏻

Well done/great advice. Im 71 & have been doing my brakes for decades. I live in the rust belt of PA & I just started lubing the back of the clips. I had ALWAYS done like u do. So now, I put a coat in front AND behind. A SUPER thin coat behind & a thin coat where they ride. Mechanics say, lube attracts dirt. I agree, but mostly rust also. And pins? I totally agree with u. As expensive vehicles & parts, not worth shortcuts. But most of all, SAFETY. 👍

so I'm a technician originally from upstate NY, so hardcore salt country. we were in a small town, so lots of repeat customers and we got our brake jobs to last alot longer by little improvements here and there. we made cleaning the saddles faster and better by using a sandblaster like you mentioned and in rust country we did see a small improvement by putting a thin layer of brake lube in the saddle under the clips. this worked well because it kept the rust from forming for many months keeping the pads free in the saddle. the key here is we used a thin layer of brake lube and not anti seize which would be too thick on most cars. and we also always lubed the slide pins and on top of the clips where the pad slides which kept the rust from forming on those and kept everything moving freely. 2 things I will mention that were not in the video and might only apply to rust country, is we had to inform our customers with disc rear brakes that they needed to perform 1 hard stop from 50 or 60mph to 10 to 30mph once a week and that cleans the rust off the rear rotors allowing the brakes to last significantly longer and we had to stop using the purple ceramic brake lube. we started using the ceramic brake lube when it first came out and about 6 months later we started having come backs and the problems were all the same. the pads were sticking in the saddles we could see the purple brake lube was dried up and hardened sticking the pads so they couldn't slide free. I'm not sure if this only applies to rust country but we had to stop using that lube and the come backs stopped.

Thanks, very detailed. Back in my day their never was a boss that would teach any of this

Just did my own rear brakes a rotors after watching another one of your videos. All the little details matter, installed my own brakes/rotors without any issues afterwards.

Your lube will create a barrier the dust will form a shell surface on the lube, but the lube will keep the dust off the friction surface. Copperkote works great on break parts in places that ise lots of salt for snow removal. Prevents siezing.

Great rules for brake jobs. Im always a bit jealous watching you all work on rust free cars. Sometimes, I have to change out the caliper brackets when they rust jack so bad that the files won't work.

Wirebrushes, brake cleaner,and grease. Thank you Royalty Auto Service

I try to teach my students to take the time to clean everything prior to assembling all the parts. Unfortunately lots of folks just slap everything back together and say: Aww all the cleaning is a waste of time. It does matter if you want the best possible results.

Excellent advice! Everything you stated is totally accurate. Honestly, I don't think that I've ever burnished the brakes in 30 times though. I probably do more like 10 times and just take it easy on them for a while...no hard stops if it can be avoided.

I like to clean with brass brush and brake clean, good video thanks! Burnishing the pads into the rotor is something that should NEVER be left for the customer to finish. Especially when you do the job for family. And i have the perfect brake-in road just north of me. Your instructions are spot-on. I explained it to my granddaughter the last time she got a brake job done and you would think i had 2 heads. I said go with your grandmother and get lunch , I’ll take your car 1 hour later i was happy with the job i did and she has been driving the car for a year with no issues. With the brakes!

30-30-30 rule, easy to remember

Coworker asked me once, “why do you waste your time cleaning the rotor, hub and wheels?” My answer, “I don’t fuck around with safety, it brings me peace of mind knowing that the family in this car is safe and it’s not coming back for brake noise” he rolled his eyes and walked away.

Up here in Wisconsin we always get rust jacking under the caliper shims. I have a caliper file that I use regularly to clean up the rust. Just Google caliper file lots of options out there. I always apply grease under the shims.

I also use brake cleaner and a Scotch-Brite pad to go against the back of the hub of the rim before it touches the face of a brand new rotor hub when replacing rotors. Just to remove any scaling or mineral deposits that might be there.

Been doing break jobs exactly the same way you described in central florida for 15yr and never had a single complaint or problem doing it this way.

Working on my explorer and the rear backing plate has wallowed out holes where the parking brake retaining pins go in. Was making terrible noises. From rust. I could have removed the parking brake but Its not a good idea, I park on a slope. NY is hard on cars with salt. Also had a Lexus GS and the pins in the rear caliper couldn't budge with 1 hr of heat. Just got new ones from Lexus. Told me it is a common item. I grease them with every 2nd oil change now.

Love the fact the you guys use Zimmerman rotors and textar pads. I've had great experience w/them on my 17 AUdi Q7.Textars may put a lot of dirt on rims, but I found them good at stopping and no squeals(even at -40 temps) compared to the factory pads from Audi.

Sherwood, thank you for verifying I'm not crazy. I'm just a driveway DIY'er, but I clean all this stuff, wire brush, etc., on my vehicles. It takes me a long time to do a brake job, but I know it's done right. I try to put my vehicles back like they came off the line...

Nice video. I do pretty much everything you do except I don't put any grease where the pads slide in the clips. I do put grease under the clips and I grease the ears of the caliper where they touch the back of the pads and on the face of the piston where it touches the back of the other pad. I also burnish the pads but I have always done the up to 30 miles per hour and then back down to almost stopping and do that 20 times.

Love the video. I definitely put grease under the hardware in the salt belt area. Rust builds up under and freeze that pad in between. I put it under and on top of the hardware, behind the pads and a bit on the ends of the pad too. It helps prevent rust, we have no choice here. I live in Quebec, Canada and i clean and lube my front and rear brakes every time i change tires so twice a year and it definitely increase life of my rotors and pads for sure. I have 3 vehicles. Keep up the channel it's great thank you.

2 hours and 12 mins. From Florida to your shop… lol. I am seriously thinking about the trip for my brake job and wheel alignment.

after i bead blast my caliper mounts, i clean them and then spray a primer or paint on them so they don't rust as easy in the future. i also clean the slider boots of old gunk,and run a rabbit turd hone in the slider bores. that's just me....been doing this for over 60 yrs now.and as always test drive to burnish the pads to the rotors.

Thank you

Good morning, I was watching your video on oil changes. I think we’re being conned! I’ve had a number of cars and only my Chevy used oil. My highlanders don’t use oil because I change it every 3 to 4 thousand miles. I don’t think ten or twenty thousand miles is a good idea. Thanks Mike

Great video. Brake bedding is always a curious procedure for me. I was taught that you’re supposed to do the procedure similar to what you stated but not to let the brakes cool in between. I’m always looking to improve.

On BMW, not sure about other makes, but BMW wants their Brake Pads put on their anti rattle shims Dry, But I do add it in between the Caliper bracket and the anti rattle shim. Great tips and tricks video on brake jobs!

It's a real pleasure to hear you giving these basic advice ! With the years I passed in mechanics, I know more than ever that I will have to learn about new tech. But all fine knowledge can not avoid basic principles! Wish you all the best! 🤙

Hey, loving this channel and your videos. Top notch. As a DIY home mech here in the UK, I've found your brake service insights invaluable for working on my Jeep KJ (Liberty) front brakes and even for my Suzuki SV650S motorcycle! Have you considered uploading any videos on drum brake overhaul? I have rear drums on my Jeep and these are a bit of a mystery to me. Loads of videos on RU-vid but something from Royalty would be amazing. No bother if not. Keep doing what you're doing. Lots of respect for this channel from over the pond. Jon

Yes good video Sherwood Living in the city it’s 30 30 30 great advice CHEERS

I have been using the steps you outlined. I use the brake parts manufacturers website on their recommended procedures including the application of recommended lube and burnishing procedures. I use Wagner's website. Working on vehicles that are used in heavy duty applications like police cars, emergency vehicles, Dail-A-Ride, and Transit Bus services require attention to the correct practices in brake maintenance to ensure safe and long life of braking systems

That is the correct way to service a brake system, always good to see quality work.🇦🇺

One thing that seems to get missed in pro shops is to take time to lube and adjust parking brakes. Guys seem to just skip over that step of cleaning grime off the star wheel and refreshing the mechanism.

All great advice!

I haven’t lowered my car yet from the jack stands nor put my wheel back on but I have installed new brakes, rotors, and hardware doing everything step by step the way you’ve taught us in the how to do a brake job professionally video . I’m having a scratching noise when I spin the rotor around.. I’m thinking this is just because I haven’t pumped the brakes, moving the pistons back and because it’s in the air on jack stands . Any comments would help bunches ( I cannot put the car on the road right now to see if the sound gas away because the rear brake pads r not here yet but I have everything off and clean so I don’t want to put them on just to find out why there’s scratching sound )

Great tips, thank you. I used to grease the anti rattle clips on the pad side, but I don't any more. They have such a small point of contact with the pad ears and they collect dirt. I live in the rust belt and always grease on the back side of the anti rattle clips.

Excellent tips just like another video related to brake and rotor maintenance that was detailed alongside one of his employees - but anyway, based on insightful, useful and informative material, I’ve purchased items like a stud cleaner and implemented other techniques to perform a quality brake job. The only different is that I use a Silicone ceramic based lubricant to lube my caliper pins. Never know what type of service you’ll get in any auto body shop, especially if you’re a new customer which typically means fresh blood to them and over-bill you for services that are less than expected. Thumbs up to the crew at Royalty.

In Connecticut, most caliper brackets have pads solidly corroded in place- stuck. Especially in the rear brakes. It’s essential to remove the corrosion on the pad abutments and use synthetic brake grease liberally on the bracket before installing the clips.

The tip on breaking in the break pads was not something I've seen despite watching many videos on brake jobs (prior to attempting my first DIY brake job). Great tip!

As a mechanic who lives in the rust belt, lubing up caliper brackets is insanely important. Under the anti-rattle clips, then on top of the anti-rattle clips. The slides get lubed until grease is about coming out of the boots. Hubs are sprayed with muscle grease. Rotor hat then gets the same treatment. Basically everything except for the pad and rotor surfaces get greased, or the pads will be seized in the brackets in 6 months.

You are correct about breaking in the disc brake pad

Recently discovered your channel. I used to do all my own work and enjoyed it. I don’t do much any more - cars are too complicated and you need more specialized tools and diagnostic equipment. I’m in North Texas and have run into a frustrating issue. I have an airbag warning light on. 2018 Mustang. Over the last several months I’ve repeatedly been to three separate Ford dealerships for service. The response is always been the same, “Leave the car here, we will service the car in the order in which it has been left with us - no appointments” Typical wait two to ten days! The service manager’s explication - Sorry we just don’t have qualified technicians!!!! My car is under Ford extended warranty, which is great - But I can’t get service 🤔

Congratulations Sherwood and the team for reaching 100 k subscribers. Keep up the excellent work!

not sure if you mentioned this in any past videos but something my brother taught me was to turn new rotors, I never did that in the past until he turned a new one when I was there and sure enough it wasn't flat. Couldn't believe how off it was.

Only time I did a brake job on a car ( front only ) I think I semi cooked the front brakes. Saw I guess smoke coming off the front pulled over to let them cool down. I was bedding them in too. Oh well. It was city traffic with a lot of lights and stop signs but late at night. I think now I was lucky because it was a stick and I always engage the e-brake like I was taught and is legally required when at a stop in the UK. Brakes worked fine for many miles after that. It was a while ago so my memory isn't perfect about it. 30 times shouldn't be that hard in a city especially one with the classic grid system using the e-brake obviously and late at night too in the wealthier areas with much less traffic. Great video btw and thanks for the links to the products as I will most likely have one or two 4 wheeled vehicles to do soon.

You can have pride when you are at your level, some people have to hustle and they put the most pride they can into it, but it is what it is

Whaoo 😅 y his is a really good video about how to take your time and do a better job. I am not a mechanic, but after watching your videos, I feel like I just wanted to go to the garage to apply all the good stuffs learned from your videos. Thanks for sharing all good knowledge and motivating real mechanics to do a better job. God bless you and your team. Please continuo doing the great job.

Clean freshly turned rotors with brake clean and shop paper towel...u would be surprised how much fine cast iron dust there is....

Maybe I missed it in the video, but what about cleaning up the burr on the edge of the pad backplate stamping? I find this often catches on the carrier a bit. I like to clean it up.

break in is something that took me 30 years to figure out. That can make a huge difference in the pedal feel over the life of the breaks.

I've always wondered about the S hook part. Great idea. The break in piece on the pads was good to know too. Lots of good bits of knowledge, thank you.

Great video thank you so much!!! Can you do the last part while car is up on jack stands and floor jack?

I'd like your opinion on torque sticks. I'm a retired mechanic and I've never used them. I think they are crap and cause a lot of problems. Seems like every time I get tires rotated, I end up with a warped rotor, so when I do get new tires etc. I get my torque wrench out and retorque my lug nuts.

I use anti-seize on all brake parts and back side of the pads. Road salt eats everything. Rust jacking on pads will throw you for a loop. Never had a comeback, that was my fault. yes, it does attract dirt, but if its tight and clean going out the door, it is non-issue.

We always lube both sides of the clips. Always told anything metal on metal can and will make noise

FWIW my 2018 Jeep Cherokee AWD came with grease on the back of the pad from the factory but none on the stainless clip.

I don't know how you guys feel about this - but I like to work on my own cars. I'd like to think I know my limits but sometimes I get in over my head and have to go to an expert. How do you guys feels about these kinds of customers? Yesterday I put new shocks on my truck. A couple weeks prior I replaced the starter. I do the brakes and oil changes, fuel filter etc. When the hydroboost went out I took it to a shop. Thanks and be well.

Great honesty matey 👍😊 Also very handy hints & helps 😜 Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍺🕺

Regarding the 6:00 mark, I NEVER add grease where the pads slide. I'll add grease to the bottom part of the fitting kit once I've cleaned the surfaces. I'm a toyota guy so I use the white grease from the tube. Never had an issue with it. On other vehicles like Honda, Nissan I use the black grease in the same manner. Haven't had issues either. 7:20 I've never done this, I've had to check someone else's work multiple times because of brake noise. I clean all that junk off and re-do the work and then no more noise. I'm in SoCal.

I like these guys