It's our favorite way of washing after each training session as the number of pads could accumulate close to 100 pieces. One cleans with pressure washer, 3 person spin dry it.
The first pad washer is the best and quickest although it's also the most expensive but I feel if your polishing cars often it pays for itself quickly in the time it saves you. Having a clean pad is a huge time saver plus makes your work way better quality wise. Coming from someone whose tried about every solution out there just buy the first option here the other purchase options aren't worth the money they cost. I have the details guards pad cleaner that thing works well but to me it's a waste of money since it requires you to remove the pad and if I already have to do that I might as well just run it under the sink which cleans the pads decently enough.
I usually have a bucket of rinseless Wash that has the grit guards at the bottom. I dunk the pad in and rub the face against the grit guard inside, pull it out and it's down as heck. Then I hand squeeze it, put it on my polisher and on high speed wring it out in the bucket. Ready to go.
I just lazy, just remove the polishing pad then put into front load washing machine then wash together with microfiber towels. After done washing then put into a front load drying machine to dry it with cool air. So far still working fine, the polishing pads are still maintaining its softness. I am using CarPro MFX as microfiber towel detergent.
gosh i really want to learn badly from osren class about polish paint, but time is not on my side at the moment, find doin paint polish is like an art, you get to learn car paint sensitivity, the paint level, its like a science class to get an outstanding result. hope one day i have a time to get into one of their class
Come join us, we would love to have you! Our courses are designed to progress step by step. So you do not have worry about overloading/jamming your braincells. Side note, there are occasional open demonstrations from time to time, perhaps you could participate in that to find out more. Event details will be listed on our FB.
I dont recommend pressure washing some pads. But if you do, have it a long distance away. Use wool wash with wool pads to keep them smelling nice and staying soft and fluffy. If using the system 4000 pad washer make sure you have a polisher that spins fast enough to get the pad barely damp or your pad will be too damp.
Do you clean it each new section you touch? For example. If you’ve got big doors like I do, and it’s 4 sections per panel. Would you clean the pad each section? Or clean after you’re done with that panel?
Usually, after each panel. Occasionally, we will clean it after several sections. There is no hard rule, but if the pad is dirty and cutting feels a little different (even before completing an entire panel), we will clean it. There is no definite rule here, but a proper prepped car, (wash, clay and tar being removed) will ensure pad stays cleaner for longer time
Hey Croes, osren.com/product/tools-and-accessories/all/system-3000-pas-washer-da It's the pad washer by lake country that we are using. We do sell it physically but not online at our e-store. you may find the our distributors here : osren.com/distributors
Hey, so for heavier cuts/compounding, we often clean it 1/2 of a panel or so, we find that heavier cuts result in more residues. for polishing or lighter cutting, we can get away with cleaning the pads after completing a panel (door/hood).
If you exhausted the clear coat, you will have to respray it. It's somewhat of a paradox. It's not easy, yet not difficult to exhaust a paint clear coat. If you know what you are doing, the paint would last for years to come even with regular polishing. When it comes to 'polishing', there are 2 different types. namely paint correction vs paint cleaning. We wrote about this and trust that this will help you to understand more: osren.com/blog/2020/11/06/paint-cleaning-the-vital-maintenance-after-paint-correction/
contrary to that, we recommend using pressure washer as it doesn't introduce friction from scrubbing the pad clean. we found that it extends the lifespan of pads. It's safe on pads just like it's safe on the waxed and coated cars. Doesn't not tear anything apart unless use incorrectly.
The best one is the one that can remove the defects on the car while leaving behind minimal after-defects. It varies from paint to paint and should be seen as a combination approach rather than a singular pad.
hey, yes. totally possible. spin dry it at the highest speed. it should be around 90 - 95% dry we find da spins dry better than rotary (because of the throw)
I start with a spun dry pad. You will get almost all of the water out. But I find it balances the machine and reduces vibration. It also makes the product spread out better.
Compressed air it's not the best all-rounder in our experience. On foam and wool pads, it doesn't perform well in blowing off dust on the surface when it's still slightly damp from the polishing cream. Cleaning on the pad washer is by far our favourite.
Spray some body shop safe liquid or onr rinseless wash, give it a quick gentle rub then blow with compressed air, aiming the blow gun across the pad not at it. This will clean it very well.
