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The NEW Way to Train for Rock Climbing 

Lattice Training
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Have you heard of CARCing? 🤔 It's been around for decades in some form or another, but recently it has become really popular among a number of elite climbers and coaches. Could CARCing be the future?
You may have heard of ARC training, which is short for ‘Aerobic, Respiration and Capillarity’ training. It is to rock climbing what a Zone 2 run is to a mountaineer. It enables climbers to develop the base fitness that climbing performance relies on.
ARC training requires climbing for long periods of time on easy terrain which can be a mental challenge. The term CARCing was defined by Lattice coach Jonny Kydd after he started integrating his ARCing while on long car journeys to work on his project most weeks. This is why the ‘C’ was added, in his bid for efficiency and maximising performance, he swapped climbing practice for light grip training while in the car. 🚗
(⚠️ Please note that we would advise against any form of training whilst driving - see our disclaimer below ⚠️)
But CARCing, due to it being so far from rock climbing practice, is not well established as a form of training.
So, in typical Lattice Training fashion, we set about to devise an experiment to see if CARCing was truly worth the hype! In just 4 weeks, Lattice coach Josh Hadley did over 17 hours of CARCing to see if it improved his endurance… 100, 250 reps later the results are quite incredible. 😲
Will you be adding CARCing to your training routine?
0:43 What is Carcing
3:05 Why Carcing
4:25 My Experiment
5:35 My Testing
7:38 The Results
11:58 Should you Carc?
⚠️ DISCLAIMER: Please note that although we advocate the use of light grip training (and have adopted the term CARCing for this), we do not recommend or advise that you perform CARCing whilst driving any form of vehicle. The contents of this video are for informational purposes only. By watching this video, you agree that any actions you take as a result of the information or content provided are entirely at your own risk and Lattice Training Limited shall not be responsible for the loss, or damage, of or to any property or to any person arising from the same.
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30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 231   
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
A bit of extra context to how my endurance improved in these 4 weeks. Day 1. My Critical Force was 31.4%. This is below the average score for 8a/5.13b which is 34% Day 30. My Critical Force was 38.5%. This was above the average score for 8b/5.13d which is 38% These numbers are personalised to my height and gender.
@Miura.Powers
@Miura.Powers 3 месяца назад
You're on the same Level as Agnus Kille with 38,9%. Go get him Tiger! Well, and you have to match his 98,5% MVC :D This also puts Stefanos 64,5% into perspective....
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
@@Miura.Powers Haha yeah. If only my fingers were that strong. I'm working on it 😂 I still can't believe Stefano's score. I'd like to test Séb Bouin too!
@Miura.Powers
@Miura.Powers 3 месяца назад
@@LatticeTraining It's a shame that you guys switched to the force plate for MVC, now i can't compare my self anymore :D yeah, seb would be wild. Can you imagine him being around 40% and we all realize his technique is impeccable? :D
@Miura.Powers
@Miura.Powers 3 месяца назад
@@eman1989z you have his MVC, thats basicly deadhang.
@coolguyASDQWEFEWFADSFAS
@coolguyASDQWEFEWFADSFAS 3 месяца назад
If CARCing doesn't sound good what about something like edging? Since you are mimicking pulling on an edge for long periods of time without quite reaching that high intensity zone where you can't maintain.
@yercules
@yercules 3 месяца назад
sus
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
😂
@plixplux
@plixplux 3 месяца назад
This is a very good one imho. Another alternative I'd like to suggest would be "Hold Play".
@rundown132
@rundown132 3 месяца назад
im actively edging while watching this
@Animatedron
@Animatedron 3 месяца назад
😂😂😂
@McAwesomeness3
@McAwesomeness3 3 месяца назад
Might be good to note that you are talking about percentage _points_, increasing your CF from 31.4% to 38.5% is a 22.6% increase!
@sightreader2507
@sightreader2507 2 месяца назад
Glad I saw this comment, that was very misleading in the video Now that’s a significant improvement
@tristanmayfield4851
@tristanmayfield4851 3 месяца назад
I'm honored my desk grips made it into the video!
@minihjalte
@minihjalte 3 месяца назад
I love it😂
@sebastianflynn1746
@sebastianflynn1746 3 месяца назад
This is the kind of content we need. I feel we need more context regarding how effective that increase is relative to other training methods.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Thank for the feedback. I was trying to keep it short where possible but a great point. I'll pin a comment that should add a bit more context to how much my critical force improved by!
@politykanazw2622
@politykanazw2622 3 месяца назад
"Jorking it" I've been jorking it for 17 hours
@climbingclem
@climbingclem 3 месяца назад
I am CARCing while watching this video
@LiftedAdventures
@LiftedAdventures 3 месяца назад
same
@TheNickMartinez
@TheNickMartinez 2 месяца назад
I’m edging
@00Platypus00
@00Platypus00 3 месяца назад
Cars are aid
@rundown132
@rundown132 3 месяца назад
clothes are aid
@gr.4380
@gr.4380 2 месяца назад
arms are aid
@bluetaylor7614
@bluetaylor7614 Месяц назад
Breathing is aid
@TijmenHatesads
@TijmenHatesads 3 месяца назад
For the injury worries I always wonder how manual labour factors in to training like this. I've never seen a construction worker warm up their wrists and hands: we just showed up (hopefully sober), chugged a cup and a half of coffee with the morning cigarette and grabbed the the tools we needed for the day. Then it's 6-12 hours of laying bricks, drilling holes or tightening nuts. Repeat for 5 days a week, ~45 weeks a year, 30-ish years total with generally little to no finger injuries. Quite some messed up elbow, shoulder and hip joints though. As for a name: call it barking. Barely Aerobic Resistance-training, Kinda.
@Monscent
@Monscent Месяц назад
You also moved your body, arms wrists in various ways before starting intensive work. And not all work on the jobsite is exactly max effort lol. So no real max finger effort = no real finger injuries. But ofc lots of other injuries like you describe. Likely from not doing movements correctly and never working out for longevity.
@TijmenHatesads
@TijmenHatesads Месяц назад
@@Monscent honestly, it wasn't uncommon for me to take the bus to work, walk 2 minutes to get to the van, sit and discuss the day before I sat in the passenger seat for an hour. Then when we arrive it's full send immediately, it's not uncommon for hauling stuff off the trailer to be the most risky and intense bit of the day. Not too speak of the rope access jobs where we're in the car for 4 hours, then have 2 hours for a half day job. The only preparatory movement there is punching myself in the dick for quitting school so soon.
@Kefford666
@Kefford666 Месяц назад
I have joiner friends who are now having grip issues. Basically they can’t fully close their fingers to make a fist due to holding hammers and drills all day every day.
@daanschone1548
@daanschone1548 Месяц назад
I concur on the elbows. But carpal tunnel isn't great either.
@peterkapunkt6783
@peterkapunkt6783 3 месяца назад
I am carcing with my right hand since I was a teenager for about once or twice a day. it's noticeably stronger so I guess it works.
@Osted-xe4ym
@Osted-xe4ym 3 месяца назад
Bro
@c4un544n5
@c4un544n5 3 месяца назад
One part getting stronger, another part getting weaker. Sacrifices have to be made. 🫡
@Khang-kw6od
@Khang-kw6od 2 месяца назад
how often do u carc tho??? I can't imagine lasting for longer than like 1 hour a day doing this.
@Tarabulus
@Tarabulus 3 месяца назад
"I now have a passionate hatred for this thing!" Sounds like success to me! :)
@thestruggleclimbingshow
@thestruggleclimbingshow 3 месяца назад
Haha- LFG! c’ARC’ing lyfe 💪. If anyone wants to hear more on this- check out my episode with Ollie from a while back. Thanks for donating your left forearm to science to this Josh!
@sarayahyaie8425
@sarayahyaie8425 3 месяца назад
Could you please tell me in which episode it appeared? Please leave a link
@thestruggleclimbingshow
@thestruggleclimbingshow 3 месяца назад
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ozWO0L1auSI.htmlsi=3LhgKT5wXKqlzLRe
@nolanbanfitch5070
@nolanbanfitch5070 3 месяца назад
Carpal tunnel speedrun
@rundown132
@rundown132 3 месяца назад
100% lol, one way ticket to overuse city
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Yep I had this concern. I don't recommend jumping in at 3 hours a week. And I think more appropriate tools probably exist. Rice bucket? But I think if you build up slowly anything is possible. I like the anecdote from a builder in the comments. My volume was nothing compared to what some builders, bricklayer or scaffolders do. Our grip is very adaptable.
@paulusul
@paulusul 3 месяца назад
I'm surprised you didn't see and effect of "The Cross-Education Phenomenon" - Cross education is the process whereby training of one limb gives rise to enhancements in the performance of the opposite, untrained limb.
@bluetaylor7614
@bluetaylor7614 Месяц назад
Was wondering about that too. I’ve read that it’s the cross education phenomenon works best when the movement is more complex though as opposed to simple and monotonous
@dsmeier6270
@dsmeier6270 3 месяца назад
The beauty of actually arcing is getting in movement practice with it. So you get technique practice and endurance gains.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Agreed. Just not practical for everyone. As a new dad I only get to the gym 2x a week at the moment and I like to have a short board session when I go. But I'd like to prepare for sport climbing in the autumn and this method gives me hope.
@yercules
@yercules 3 месяца назад
It should just be called ''arcing", "hand triggering" or "pistol gripping". Can't use edging, which is already taken. Just look it up in the urban dictionary.
@moderndaymath
@moderndaymath Месяц назад
Agreed that this shouldn't be called CARCing. Sounds like a synonym of gooning 🤣
@devonrd
@devonrd Месяц назад
Did this for one day for 20 minutes, had instant inflammation in the carpal tunnel area! I feel like a more isometric type contraction would be healthier, than jiggling those tendons around for such long periods of time. It's a highly repetitive movement, so I feel like others should be careful with this as well.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining Месяц назад
Good to know your experience with this. I've also been experimenting with much lower times and slightly higher intensity. Currently trying 1 min sets with 1 min rest, 10 cycles in total.
@goldeneddie
@goldeneddie 3 дня назад
Need a more direct motivation for training your grip? Try 'MARRIAGE' - - especially with children - just a few weeks of 'Married Life' plus 'Parenting' will have you pulling at the trim of your car or any available edge whilst gritting your teeth and suppressing a huge aerobic scream as you desperately try not to 'lose your grip'.
@ozamram
@ozamram 3 месяца назад
Really interesting study and results! Thanks for the effort & great content
@ClintManley
@ClintManley Месяц назад
New name... L.I.E.T. pronounced like diet... Low Intensity Endurance Training
@tomriddle2257
@tomriddle2257 3 месяца назад
I took a hand trainer with me for a 2 week bus round trip. Got me so bad inflammation that I couldn’t boulder for 2 weeks. 😅
@egokenny
@egokenny Месяц назад
After your hand healed how did your bouldering go?
@tomriddle2257
@tomriddle2257 Месяц назад
@@egokenny I was noticeably weaker than before.
@XY-ep8uz
@XY-ep8uz Месяц назад
Worth it
@ItsASquirrel
@ItsASquirrel 3 месяца назад
Judging by the drop in power, I'd guess that the main adaptation you achieved was converting a lot of fast twitch muscle fibers to slow twitch.
@DunkelBrauer
@DunkelBrauer 3 месяца назад
Let's call it NAPping (Non-specific Aerobic Pinching or Non-specific Anecdotally Proven). Or BARCing (brain melting ARCing).
@DinoTamer23
@DinoTamer23 3 месяца назад
1 hour at a time seems excessive. Would be interested in seeing your results if you had just done 20-30 mins, 3 times per week.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Yes I totally agree. I just jumped in that high to see if it would work but not to give advice. We see similar approaches in research because they want to show a large effect size or reach statistical significance. The research that follows should then try to answer how it can be made practical to everyday users or athletes. Like finding the minimum effective dose.
@georgesheffield1580
@georgesheffield1580 6 дней назад
Does this work for crack climbing on chose? How about on icy granite cracks ?
@Royalrights
@Royalrights Месяц назад
Nothing like CARCing with the boys. Just getting grippy with the lads.
@VolodymyrBarna
@VolodymyrBarna 3 месяца назад
Now do the same with your other hand. I wonder how much it would replicate the experiment.
@HunterCottrell
@HunterCottrell 3 месяца назад
I've tried this in the past but found it to be hard to keep focus on over time. I've theorized that using a TENS unit on your forearm could have the same impact, but completely passively and no attention required after you apply the pads. If you can set the intensity to contract your forearm muscles correctly I think it could work? Feel free to try it on your other arm and even things back out! 🤣
@growtocycle6992
@growtocycle6992 Месяц назад
Carking it means something very different in NZ... 😂
@999moxy
@999moxy 3 месяца назад
I would like to see if the difficulty to compress the spring was harder, and you did say 5-10 mins at a stronger grip... Would this also train your contact strength, rate of force development etc. After all we don't climb for an hour and we need the muscles to move more blood, so if you recreated a slightly more challenging grip what would the results of that look like?
@Veloxzr
@Veloxzr 3 месяца назад
Regarding the grip trainer being uncomfortable for long periods, I’ve found that using it backwards (fingers on the side your palm is intended to be on) significantly more comfortable, to the point I would say I have no discomfort over long periods :)
@simonwilliams9850
@simonwilliams9850 3 месяца назад
Yes I actually move it back to front and also upside down in each orientation, and with full hand or just fingers. I don't really get though why the 'standard' shape is as it is
@KiINGKaNG
@KiINGKaNG 3 месяца назад
Taping the handles is a game changer
@willbland3307
@willbland3307 2 месяца назад
Great video! How did you schedule this around your training days - would you stack this onto the day you were climbing/hangboarding - or add this into the recovery days?
@hanshans387
@hanshans387 Месяц назад
Great video! I use a foam stressball for carcing - doesn't apply equal force to all fingers so i move it about to different positions and pinch it too and the variety makes it less dull and the foam is never sore on the hand. I'm looking for a sitffer one and/or a cylinder next!
@cyborgraptor1778
@cyborgraptor1778 2 месяца назад
Would like to see this in under or untrained people. Someone new, or that can't get to the gym more than once a week.
@Sparky210-11
@Sparky210-11 19 дней назад
People.. just go out and climb 😂 everyone wants a quick fix to climbing harder
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 18 дней назад
In fairness I think "just go out and climb" might be a frustrating standpoint for some people. As an example this year I had my first child and "just go climbing" is not a simple as it sounds anymore. I don't think it is about quick fixes for most people. I think it's about efficiency of training and having options. I expect most people that have the freedom to climb a lot will and won't bother with this.
@stanante
@stanante 3 месяца назад
Is there a way to gauge the statistical significance of these changes? I assume you take the same data for yourself semi regularly. How do the changes compare in general? Or perhaps sig levels aren't even relevant given how variable your training might be long-term?
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
I think we'd need multiple trials or multiple subjects to calculate statistical significance. Maybe we could determine effect size? But I think it would be misleading in a way, to suggest this is rigorously scientific. I have done this test a fair amount. But it's quite a brutal test so I have gone over a year without testing. If it helps, the past couple of years I've hovered around the same level of endurance as my pre-test. With work life and being new Dad I've mostly bouldered and not been worried about getting fit. I've been a bit higher (CF) in the past, about 34%. But never as high as 38%. And my previous 34% peak was during a season of sport climbing.
@shoqed
@shoqed 3 месяца назад
why do you ask for statistical significance if you clearly don't fully understand what it means? Statistical "significance" is not the be all end all even in a scientific studies and it's based on an arbitrary threshold of one of several popular methods of statistical analysis
@mAny_oThERSs
@mAny_oThERSs 3 месяца назад
let's call it pumping
@skent714
@skent714 Месяц назад
Starbucks employee: What name should I write on the cup? Customer: Mark, with a "C." Starbucks employee: Okay, here's your coffee, Cark. Maybe call your workout G.R.I.P., or Getting Red In Palm.
@TheValinov
@TheValinov 3 месяца назад
*pumping iron* Like the arnie movie? when i bought these things, when i started climbing, i felt like it made my sessions worse, because i somewhat overtrained. in my opinion these training devices doesn't transfer to any griptype, not even pinches. i also bought one with single finger "buttons". this was even worse, the fingers were quite in pain. hangboard still seems to be the king.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Yes totally agree. Not very useful for training climbing strength. But the intention here is to develop a dense capillary bed and more mitochondria, to enhance blood flow and aerobic energy production. This improves recovery and endurance. So you'd only likely notice a difference on long sport climbs or during rest periods.
@sarayahyaie8425
@sarayahyaie8425 3 месяца назад
I have a question, was Josh said in the video that one should not pump on the forearm while doing the activity? Or I misunderstood? Because I think continuous squeezing for an hour leads to pump
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
Yes that is correct. Do NOT get pumped. This is comparable to a runner going for a light/recover run.
@mountaind3wd70
@mountaind3wd70 Месяц назад
This is just rice bucket... training fads always come full circle
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining Месяц назад
I've seen rice buckets suggested for strength but not aerobic endurance. At least not in rock climbing.
@Imthedragonreborn
@Imthedragonreborn 2 месяца назад
I don't think you're measuring the increase correctly, it really is more like +22.6% (38.5/31.4) of your baseline before the training ;)
@newtongs
@newtongs Месяц назад
There needs to be a proper sample size, amongst other things, to move this out of the 'anecdotal' category.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining Месяц назад
I kind of agree. But it is not uncommon to see peer review science journals publish "case studies" which explore the nuance of athletic training with qualitative and quantitative data. My favourite is "A Life Dedicated to Climbing and Its Sequelae in the Fingers-A Review of the Literature" which is about Fred Nicole!!!! I'm not saying what we did here was scientifically robust. But it's more than one person saying they "feel fitter" after a certain training protocol. I'd say this is closer to a case study than anecdote.
@biggussconnus
@biggussconnus 3 месяца назад
Seems like a lot of squeezing a grip. I have one of those orange 30kg grips. I squeeze it. I found it hard to start, now I can crush it. I wasn't even able to entertain pinching it closed and now am close. --++ Do you think having a manual job might help. Being on the tools all day?? That is like hours of low intensity work
@bendtbendt1
@bendtbendt1 3 месяца назад
I don’t think your comparison of RFD is valid. No change should correspond to pulling 80% of your original max force not the new one
@bernhardbobo1188
@bernhardbobo1188 3 месяца назад
I have some TheraPutty on my Desk for playing around and squeezing in calls and so on. THis is quite comfortable, as it is not a rigid training device. Maybe a more comfortable way for "Carcing"
@oliviabaklaton4552
@oliviabaklaton4552 Месяц назад
@LatticeTraining Attention if you do it every day hundreds of time without stretching every day your forearm muscels the chances are high to get epicondylitis. I got it and 2 friends of mine too. It is better to press and hold for 10-20 seconds, 10-50 times with a pause of 10 to 20 seconds.
@tommeyer3871
@tommeyer3871 3 месяца назад
Since CARCing is particularly useful for people too BUSY to ARC on the wall I suggest BARCing as a better name 😂
@crispycrimps865
@crispycrimps865 3 месяца назад
You're hangboarding 2 times a week? I thought you were into no hangs? Doesn't one of your videos show you throwing the hangboard I'm the trash? (Not literally I know)
@IAMDIMITRI
@IAMDIMITRI 3 месяца назад
But if you do 1h at the time, 3 times a week on your left arm. Doesn't that mean your forearms will be equal in strength and endurance?
@ryandelaney5842
@ryandelaney5842 3 месяца назад
Wait, you hang board twice a day? You're not doing no-hang block training? You guys just put out video of you with the thumbnail throwing a hang board in the trash. (not literally, claro)
@OrionDuCros
@OrionDuCros 2 месяца назад
Can you test gooning next?
@TXEENT
@TXEENT 3 месяца назад
I prefer volume to hangboard training, but maybe Ive reached my limits without specific training or better technique. Usually end up injuring a finger or wrist whenever I try to push beyond v8 range. Im curious to give this a try, its easy to fit during the day.
@soccutd77
@soccutd77 3 месяца назад
Hey Josh, great video! I know you mentioned intensity quantification is difficult but for people who might want to try to replicate, is there some way you can quantify the amount of force you were squeezing against for an hour? Maybe the grip machine has a value for how much force is needed to close it?
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
I started on the very lowest setting on this devise. I think it might say 5kg but I doubt that is accurate. Because this is essentially threshold training, the intensity will be need to be very individual. It will matter how strong and how fit you are. And these can be quite independent. For example, Jonny Kydd mentioned at the beginning of the vid is WAY stronger than me. But his relative endurance was half what mine was. So I might be training at a higher resistance than him for the same relative outcome. Something I noticed made a big difference was the cadence too. If I started to get a bit too pumped I just slowed down until it felt right. I think going of perceived intensity is best but it takes some awareness and experience that comes with years of training. A cheap digital feedback tool is the future for this stuff. But I personally don't want an edge, ergonomics is everything when you are using it for 60-90 minutes at time.
@hblester
@hblester Месяц назад
Oops. I just watch an advertisement without realizing it right away
@Thissbetterwork
@Thissbetterwork Месяц назад
My granddad was doing this at 80years old back in 2005. He wasn't even a climber just a badass
@ArkanoidZero
@ArkanoidZero Месяц назад
Low Intentisy Target Everyday Training, or LITE Training for short.
@nicoleanne967
@nicoleanne967 2 месяца назад
so if i understand 25,000 reps in a week is Perday day 1 hour = 8000 reps straight?
@SkylerAk
@SkylerAk Месяц назад
I feel like every climber already was doing this on long road trips, it’s like, well I am stuck driving for a while and I like to finger train, might as well pull on something in the meantime :)
@disgruntledwookie369
@disgruntledwookie369 3 месяца назад
The thumbnail of this video is freaking me out. How is that dude's thumb bent like that??
@bjdfit
@bjdfit 3 месяца назад
Passive Aerobic Respiratory Capillary PARCing
@alexb2298
@alexb2298 Месяц назад
Although not best for performance, one of my favorite things is to try these odd ball training methods! Keeps things interesting!
@KiINGKaNG
@KiINGKaNG 3 месяца назад
I found taping the handles with climbing tape mostly solves the comfort thing
@SecondsIntervalTimer
@SecondsIntervalTimer 2 месяца назад
That looks like a cool website you are using for timing your critical force tests at 5:47
@egokenny
@egokenny Месяц назад
I'm going to research this and suggest to add it to my local gym. Very cool
@ccord499
@ccord499 3 месяца назад
PARCing, because you can do it while taking a walk in the park.
@Papasean101
@Papasean101 Месяц назад
Great video, i think since this helps with holding onto climbing edges for a long time, we should name this "Edging"
@runclimbplay
@runclimbplay Месяц назад
I think your left hand test should've been every day, with less time.
@oliviervandeschilde9059
@oliviervandeschilde9059 2 месяца назад
I call it losing. Because you do Lots Of Squeezes and also you lose your sanity.
@Berggorillas
@Berggorillas 2 месяца назад
What is the training protocol? How many sets & reps per day? what is the resistance level?
@Veloxzr
@Veloxzr 2 месяца назад
Now that one of your arms has a significantly higher critical force than the other, it would be interesting to try one of those 2-handed endurance tests on a hangboard and see the difference in feeling between your arms as you go. An instant comparison of what more critical force feels like!
@SpartiateLunaire
@SpartiateLunaire 2 месяца назад
New name proposal : Squeezemaxxing
@breadanrice
@breadanrice 3 месяца назад
I know this as "grease the groove" by repeatedly doing lower intensity motions
@justapenoindex
@justapenoindex 2 месяца назад
i guss these old ems abs trainer belts they used to sell on tv worked the same, right? never even thought they would work until now..
@tibslikewiser863
@tibslikewiser863 3 месяца назад
Does it translate to climbing though is it effective i just started getting into armlifts and pinchblocks maybe i can add this too
@nickarci
@nickarci 2 месяца назад
Thanks for this post! How many KG were you squeezing in your study? Adjustable grip trainers [e.g. 5-60KG] set at the lowest setting (5KG) seem a bit too difficult (to me) for 30 minute ARCing sessions. I must be weak...
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
It's important you get it really low. Both strength and relative aerobic threshold will need to dictate the intensity you use.
@garetwebster5002
@garetwebster5002 2 месяца назад
Can you do it again with grip holding instead of rapid squeezing?
@owninggreendragsdude
@owninggreendragsdude 3 месяца назад
Anyone else up CARCing at 3am?
@pedrohanekamp5968
@pedrohanekamp5968 2 месяца назад
Ure supposed to use the curve part of the gripper on your palm not on the fingers
@gregoryb94
@gregoryb94 3 месяца назад
I put an old sock around one side of the trainer, so my palm doesn't get red so easily.
@leonardobarnabo8988
@leonardobarnabo8988 2 месяца назад
Can you suggest me some research about critical force and W' applied to climbing, please? And can you briefly explain me how should I take a climbing critical force assessment?
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
Here is a great article with research references at the bottom -> strengthclimbing.com/critical-force-calculator/
@Deus0tiosus
@Deus0tiosus 3 месяца назад
When I started climbing, my fingers looked really weak. I kind of came up with a similar concept, squeezing a grip trainer around 1000 times per day, most days, and noticed a significant improvement in my climbing. From climbing 5b to my first 6a top-ropes. Intuition says this is more of a thing that would benefit beginners, though.
@immadness4420
@immadness4420 3 месяца назад
i would say for beginners, go climbing and no training, maybee some pull ups. If you go from 5b to 6a only with your fingers then work on your technic and footwork and you will go from 6a to 6c lead. I got from 5b to 7b in two years without any Hangboard Session or anything. Now i'm at this point where i need to work for fingerstrenght etc.
@mikegaunt837
@mikegaunt837 3 месяца назад
Interesting experiment and fun video, but there are some pretty big statistical issues (I also acknowledge some of the qualifications that were made): Sample size of one - results aren't generalizable. Only one measurement before and after for each test (as presented in video) - no account for variability (in arm strength, tiredness, injury, etc, etc). No randomization or blinding - potential bias. Using one arm as control - assumes both arms react the same. Low statistical power - hard to detect real effects. More participants and multiple measurements would improve reliability. Sorry for being the fun police :(
@paulgaras2606
@paulgaras2606 2 месяца назад
This is what you would call a case study if it was done by real scientists. The purpose is to cheaply and clearly demonstrate the basis for a hypothesis. Using one side as control is a pretty common method in exercise science. And the actual change observed would qualify as significant, all things considered.
@MichaelJones-rs5ce
@MichaelJones-rs5ce 2 месяца назад
Soo well explained, cheers for quality video! Also would be very interesting to know if this helps with injury prevention in the fingers.
@joshuaschoeffield7516
@joshuaschoeffield7516 Месяц назад
I’m CARCing so hard right now.
@mikafull
@mikafull 2 месяца назад
If you use a Ring, you can train both arms at the same time :)
@johannielsen463
@johannielsen463 3 месяца назад
I'd be curious if you could do the same type of intensity but with a rotating circuit of hand movements to avoid some of the repeptive stress...like have grippers, finger extensors, and a putty ball...I have had some irritation doing the carc'ing with the band is why I ask...or perhaps such a circuit might even yield more improved results it is relates to on the wall climbing as it is more varied...unfortunately/obviously adding more implements makes it less simple to fit into the week.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
I agree more thought needs to go into the tools used. I actually want to try it again with a simple foam ball. Like a stress ball. It feels like it would support all the joints and load the hand evenly.
@flynryan3053
@flynryan3053 2 месяца назад
Would a stress ball be a better tool to get blood flow but less pressure on palm? It would also include the thumb. When I was training for motocross I would run on the treadmill with light weights that had a bit of foam on them squeeze them on/off/on/off as I ran. Damn arm pump.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
Good call. I had a similar idea and I am currently using a stress ball 😉
@Lifegrow
@Lifegrow 3 месяца назад
You were holding it backwards, the inwards curve is ergonomically designed for your thumb and the straight bar keeps your fingers in alignment. It's over, re-do the whole damn thing :P
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Haha! I did actually swap it facing both ways and upside down both ways. It kept things a bit more interesting while doing it for 60 mins.
@Lifegrow
@Lifegrow 3 месяца назад
@@LatticeTraining Try horizontal (like a motor bike) with your pinky next to the spring - most comfortable imo. Great vids btw.
@asmonder6734
@asmonder6734 3 месяца назад
Very interesting study, and nicely carried out.
@patriksund
@patriksund 2 месяца назад
I don't know how the RFD measurement works, but just looking at the data for the 'after' for the carcing arm it's completely flat in the start compared to the other ones and seems very similar once it starts rising. Could it be that the measurement started a bit too early? It looks to me like the whole graph should be shifted to the left.
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
Good spot. I did see this too and double checked. I believe it is just the graph that is wrong and the measurement was taken from the first upward inflection.
@alexandersperber2368
@alexandersperber2368 2 месяца назад
What level of resistance did you use
@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc
@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc 3 месяца назад
I’d also be interested in your power based measurements after having a power training phase, when the endurance training phase that had come before it included carcing, since the slower twitch fibers work to give the faster twitch fibers more endurance over the long run
@jimvano
@jimvano 3 месяца назад
ARMing = Adaptive Repetitive Motion
@generalen517
@generalen517 3 месяца назад
The control hand also getting stronger might be a demonstration of the cross-education effect!
@CrispyCrimpsClimbing
@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 3 месяца назад
Hey guys! I think you missed a 0 on the title
@lostleviathan2352
@lostleviathan2352 3 месяца назад
I think they may actually have just put the comma in the wrong spot
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 3 месяца назад
Thanks! Updated!
@CrispyCrimpsClimbing
@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 3 месяца назад
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for always making amaizing videos!
@jackmilo019
@jackmilo019 3 месяца назад
who up carcing they shit rn?
@mathiaslaustrup
@mathiaslaustrup Месяц назад
Maybe we should focus on driving when we're driving?
@plwadodveeefdv
@plwadodveeefdv Месяц назад
brains don't work like that
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining Месяц назад
Yes absolutely. During a dog walk or watching a movie 👌
@joshledbury6229
@joshledbury6229 2 месяца назад
Are the lattice CF test and the Tindeq CF test relative to each other? For example if he was to test on a tindeq and the lattice setup would the result give a similar percentage?
@LatticeTraining
@LatticeTraining 2 месяца назад
That's a good question! But I don't actually know. We've never done a reliability comparison between the two methods. But I'd think there is a significant enough difference making comparison fairly unreliable.
@tannerkemp4046
@tannerkemp4046 3 месяца назад
Muscle endurance training
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